The RCexl ignition plug cap is a real pain in the butt to come off the plug when it's snapped in place. Once put on properly I can't see it slipping off, but more than likely stranger things have been known to happen.

Karol

I got the new one with the new style muffler on it, and it has one outlet pipe. I got a chance to run it today and it popped on the first flip, the second one and it was up and running! Wow this thing has some power. Didin't get a chance to tach it cause I didn't go past half throttle. I broke all three torque bolts from the prop shaft becuase I didn't tighten the prop bolt enough. have some extras though... I have a 22x10 xoar prop on it and im gonna go out to the field maybe tommorow and run it some more and see if i get some radio interference.

Here are some pics, Oh, the tubing is not the gas type right now I had to order some from online, The LHS ran out of the size I needed... so i just ran it with the glow stuff for today

The standoffs are pretty "thin", comparing to those offered by other engine vendors. Are they coming with the engine?

Grade 3 allthread bolts, no pinning the firewall, disparate standoff extension materials, ignition hard mounted to the engine box. But nice graphics.

No, the standoffs that come with this engine are the silver ones in the back they are a little thicker and aluminum, I put the steel ones on there to run the engine untill my new ones come in... The firewall is pined, the lanier edge comes with it like that, you just cant see it from the angles posted. I also have triangle stock reinforcing the back side. the ignition is mounted to thin foam, Its a little stiffer than the traditional foam but its what i decided to put on there for now.. I got the bolts from The Hardware store don't know the grade, but they are thicker than the ones that came with the engine and I havent had any problems from them in the past.

Good, glad you are aware of what's been noted and have plans for cures. Hard sometimes to be diplomatic about pointing out weaknesses in installs.

Basic Gas Engine RF Trouble Shooting:

What type of ignition is it? Does the plug lead have braided shielding on the outside of the plug cable? If not, does it have a separate ground strap?

If using a separate ground strap how and where is it secured?

What kind of spark plug does the engine use? Standard but shorter automotive plug or NGK CM-6 type? If it's a standard type plug make certain it's a resistor plug. It will have an "R" in the part number.

Is the spark plug the original from an "eastern" source? if so, replace it with new from an established manufacturer.

Are the wire contacts tight to the top of the plug inside the cap?

Is the plug wire in good condition with no obvious breaks in the wire or plug cap boot?

Does the plug cap tightly secure to the plug on the outside?

Is the ignition battery (and wire!) in good condition and well charged?

Are you using any servo extensions on the battery, ignition switch, or ignition wiring? If so, check them to make sure they are clean, tight, and secured at all connectors with perfect continuity.

Do you have metal to metal contact at the carb throttle lever? If so, replce that connection with something that has plastic or nylon between the control rod and the carb lever. With ell installedcomonents a good ignition will handle just about any type of control rod used with no problems. That was not true with "yesterday's" ignitions.

Do you have any loose nuts and bolts that may be rattled by engine vibration? If so, tighten and use Locktite to prevent loosening.

Is the receiver crystal secured in the receiver? If not, use a piece of tape over the crystal to hold it in place.

Is the ignition switch new and of good quality or is it old, used, or from a budget after market manufacturer?

Were any of the servo extensions, switches, servos, batteries, or receiver used in another plane that crashed? Were they manufacturer checked after the crash? If so and if not get rid of them for something new.

Are any of the servo extensions old, having been used in one or more other planes? Junk them and buy new from a quality manufacturer, not a budget house.

Does the receiver antenna run back inside the fuselage next to rudder and elevator servo wires or pull-pull cables? If so separate the antannea away from those by as much distance as possible.

Are the engine mounting bolts tight? Loose causes rf as the engine shakes.

Now check every nut, washer and screw on the plane to make sure that none of them may be rattling making tiny metal to metal contact noises.

Are you using metal control clevises with metal control horns? If so and they can't be secured with a screw and a nut change to something else.

Every one of the above are basic, standard, everyday checks that should be done when setting up a plane that will use a gas engine to help eliminate the possibility of RF prior to the first flight. You'll note that many of them do not relate to the ignition in any way. This is because most so called "ignition" RF problems are not ignition induced at all, but vibration induced. The ignition is always blamed for them, but generally is not the problem.

The problem is fixed. Thanks for all the advice though.

Glad I read this thread. I ordered the Sullivan precision carbon filled rod like RAM3500 recommened. Which one did you use?

Jetfixer,
Considering everyone that donated to the thread it would be nice if you would give us a clue as to what the problem was.

Pat,
That's a nice listing of possible problems. Maybe you should copy it and have it ready to paste it onto the next case of radio interferance... Bill

He did.
In the first post, he gave his problem. ( his throttle servo was glitching )
And
In post #42, he fixed the problem with a new throttle pushrod that wasn't made of carbon..

No prob, do you think i would have problems with the grade 3 bolts on there. the're either 10/24 or 1/4 size bolts i have to check? I can't find an other type thats long engough. I get my standoffs from PSP Mfg, they don't carry a 4 inch bolt and that is whatz needed to get the clerance from the cow... these seem strong, I don't think they would break unless I was to go down and even then I think the firewall would break first....

If that was my airplane, I wouldn't use metal standoffs of any kind! The mounting lugs on the engine don't appear to be very large and I would be affraid that any twisting or rough handling would remove (break) them from the engine case! To prevent twisting, I would use some kind of wood standoff. Or better yet, build out the motor box and add another firewall that you could mount the engine to with shorter bolts, fender washers or very short standoffs. Then you will have no problems getting good bolts of the proper length. I would believe that any bolt will be stronger than those tiny cast aluminum lugs and I would do everything I could to keep them attached to the engine case.

2robinhood,
I guess I lost track. I stand corrected..... Thanks Bill

Thanx for the suggestions... as for using shorter standoffs that would make things much better, but I'm not much of a handy woodworker so building the box out is a no go I also don't think the mounting lugs on the engine would break, they look small in the picture but there pretty thick, I think the box would break before they would. what kind of bolts would you use to replace the cast aluminum ones? They are a couple mm thicker than the ones that come with the engine but made of a different material... Why not Use Metal standoffs? I would think that would be better than wood, doesn't wood crack are warp? (Im kinda new to gas only been flyin them for about 2 months).

Long metal standoffs can allow an engine to twist and flex with aerodynamic forces and engine combustion pulses. Quite a bit written about that here on RCU. Do some searches and you should find hours of reading on the subject. Tom from Wild Hare and Pat Roy have both written volumes about the subject and both prefer wood standoffs. Here is a link to a recent thread where Tom shows pictures on his version of wood standoffs.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7057830/tm.htm

Wood standoffs can be much more stable than thin metal ones. I'll let their words explain their methods better than I can here. As for long bolts .... you should be able to find quality hardware at any good hardware store .... even places like Lowes and Home Depot have allen headed bolts in long lengths. If you can't find a local source, an Internet source like Microfasteners should have anything you would ever need. There are several others also. Use a size that is just snug in the mounting lug holes on your engine. 10-32, 1/4-20 and 5mm are common sizes.

http://microfasteners.com

I have made several wood standoffs from 3/4" and other thicknesses of hardwood and / or plywood. I just cut a square of wood large enough to allow plenty of area for the (4) mounting bolts then cut out the middle with a hole saw to remove extra weight. If I need nose weight, I just leave them solid. You can glue several thicknesses together to get the total thickness you need. You can get the wood at a local building supply store and can probably find a friend somewhere that has access to a table saw to cut them to size. Quick, easy and stong. Wood standoffs that use end grain wood like what Tom at Wild Hare shows are stonger than my plywood method but the ply can be plenty adequate. Oh yes, anywhere you have small bearing surfaces like where a metal standoff meets a firewall, it is good practice to use large fender washers to distribute the load over more surface area .... front and back of the firewall.

Good luck and I wish you much success with your project.

JoeAirPort,

I just used a sullivan Gold-n-Rod 2-56 nylon pushrod that I got at my LHS. It cured all the problems I had. Hopefully yours will work miracles for you!

Truckracer,

Thanx for the tip on the standoffs, I know next time what to do and how to save a lot of money!!! I checked out the forum and the way they have it set up looks good... they didn't say what kind of wood they were using for the actual standoffs and if they did I must have missed it. I might try that on my edge but being that I have only a Dremel tool I don't know how I would get it so accurate..

Hardwoods like oak, maple, ash, etc. Soft woods like pine, birch, and redwood compress too much. The ply is simply a good grade of aircraft ply to tie things together. Not the Luan stuff. You can use a simple back saw and mitre box with a length stop for cutting the dowels. They don't have to be fancy, just even.

With the dowels you cut them to be close to each other. Drill a hole down the center then bolt everything to the firewall with light tightening pressure. Then CA the dowels to the firewall. When secured take the engine off, use a flat piece of wood or metal that will cover all posts at the same time, attatch a sheet of sand paper and sand them to be equal so the engine hits all 4 at the same time when mounting.

I love Tom's hardwood standoff setup. I assume the mounting bolts have to be long enough so that they screw onto the blind nuts on the back of the firewall?

Hey Joe, the Precision Ny-Rod is still a hollow plastic tube inside a plastic sheath, its composition is just a little different to make it more stable with temperature change. Although it is black, it still bends and cuts like plastic, and it comes in two sizes for 2-56, and 4-40 threaded rod in the ends. I use it because you don't see changes in the idle when it is very hot out.

Hey guys thanx again, I would have never thought to do this... I decided to go with the setup you all sugested these are some pics of what I came up with... It's not the best looking but it holds pretty tight and I didn't have to use the 2in standoffs that cost 30bucks....

Nice.

I plan to do the same with my ZDZ40. I think I can have the oak pieces touch the mounting lugs of the engine, if possible.

Good choice of mounting T3. Be sure they contact the lugs evenly or the crank case will have to warp to the shortest one. Soak the ends with CA when you are done sanding to harden them. Next flex up and down on the engine to see how much the firewall bends under load. If there is bending, close in the top of the firewall. Use lightening holes to get to hardware inside the box.