RCGF Engines
11-28-2011, 08:57 PM
#5726
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RE: RCGF Engines
Hey WBG,
That all looks very good. I am sorry that I did not share this with you guys before. I use a piece of aluminum plate to build the holder because the wood will allow the front bolts to come loose on your engine. I can't wait to see the finished plane!!
Captmicom
That all looks very good. I am sorry that I did not share this with you guys before. I use a piece of aluminum plate to build the holder because the wood will allow the front bolts to come loose on your engine. I can't wait to see the finished plane!!
Captmicom
11-28-2011, 09:09 PM
#5727
Senior Member
RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: aussiesteve
If you got it through a decent dealer, it will have been checked. If you didn't get it through those means.
Check that it is firing somehwere between 25 - 30 degrees BTDC. (28 is ideal but a couple of degrees either way is not going to make one iota of difference to the final outcome).
For a quick and dirty test
Find TDC by looking at the piston through the exhaust port. - mark a pencil line across the prop hub and the crankcase at this point.
Method one for finding the right firing point
Get a strip of paper and wrap it around the prop hub. Cut it so it is exactly the length of the hub circumference.
Get that piece of paper and cut it in half - discard one half.
Get the piece you kept and cut it in half again - discard one half.
Get the reamianing piece and cut it into a 1/3 length - discard the 2/3rds length.
That last peice you kept is now ''30 degrees'' long. Make a mark from the exisiting mark on the hub to the length of that paper before TDC (to the left of the mark looking from the front of the engine.
Method 2 for finding the firing point.
Measure the diameter of the prop hub and muliply it by 0.244 - that is the 28 degree length. use that measurement to amke the BTDC mark.
Now power up the ignition, and listen to the spark plug cap - it will make a ''crack'' noise when it fires. Do it slowly and don't overdo it. There is no need to have a spark plug in there for this test as the occassional use of it this way woun't hurt a thing.
Now you will most likely have discovered that the timing is way out - go dril some new mounting holes for the sensor screws or start filing the senso slots to get the sensor to the right place as my experience has been they are either close enough or a long way out.
ORIGINAL: airtime82
How can you tell if the engine you have is in timing when you get it?
How can you tell if the engine you have is in timing when you get it?
Check that it is firing somehwere between 25 - 30 degrees BTDC. (28 is ideal but a couple of degrees either way is not going to make one iota of difference to the final outcome).
For a quick and dirty test
Find TDC by looking at the piston through the exhaust port. - mark a pencil line across the prop hub and the crankcase at this point.
Method one for finding the right firing point
Get a strip of paper and wrap it around the prop hub. Cut it so it is exactly the length of the hub circumference.
Get that piece of paper and cut it in half - discard one half.
Get the piece you kept and cut it in half again - discard one half.
Get the reamianing piece and cut it into a 1/3 length - discard the 2/3rds length.
That last peice you kept is now ''30 degrees'' long. Make a mark from the exisiting mark on the hub to the length of that paper before TDC (to the left of the mark looking from the front of the engine.
Method 2 for finding the firing point.
Measure the diameter of the prop hub and muliply it by 0.244 - that is the 28 degree length. use that measurement to amke the BTDC mark.
Now power up the ignition, and listen to the spark plug cap - it will make a ''crack'' noise when it fires. Do it slowly and don't overdo it. There is no need to have a spark plug in there for this test as the occassional use of it this way woun't hurt a thing.
Now you will most likely have discovered that the timing is way out - go dril some new mounting holes for the sensor screws or start filing the senso slots to get the sensor to the right place as my experience has been they are either close enough or a long way out.
BC(AMA 2500).
11-28-2011, 10:26 PM
#5728
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RE: RCGF Engines
Cap, yeah I thought of that. I used quality aircraft ply. I plan on also using some flat washers and some blue locktight. I though about aluminum or even steal, but, the thought of that wire rubbing against the metal just sent chills through my body lol. I think they will be ok. Not much different than the bolts that go through the firewall 
if its done right, I think it will hold up. If not, can always change fairly easy in the future. Thanks for sharing your idea though.
Ill keep you posted Going to start putting the thing all together next week. Have all the sub structures finished.
if its done right, I think it will hold up. If not, can always change fairly easy in the future. Thanks for sharing your idea though. Ill keep you posted
Going to start putting the thing all together next week. Have all the sub structures finished.
11-29-2011, 06:59 AM
#5730
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: WindGap
I've seen them post the 40cc twin now.
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...9&pid=F3693948
And video is alread posted online.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYPascJ62aQ
I'm truly interested in this engine...it's performance and reliability. Now to find an airframe for it....
I've seen them post the 40cc twin now.
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...9&pid=F3693948
And video is alread posted online.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYPascJ62aQ
I'm truly interested in this engine...it's performance and reliability. Now to find an airframe for it....
There was a thread a while back with a few of us begging someone to make a 40cc twin. This is a great candidate for the ESM 70" warbirds with round cowls.
11-29-2011, 07:37 AM
#5731
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RE: RCGF Engines
Hey Blake,
Not sure it will fit in the 70" planes because of the plug angle. Plug hole to plug hole is 7.5†plus two times 5/8†for the plugs and CDI caps comes out to 8.75†might be a good fit for one of the 85†war birds though.
Captmicom
Not sure it will fit in the 70" planes because of the plug angle. Plug hole to plug hole is 7.5†plus two times 5/8†for the plugs and CDI caps comes out to 8.75†might be a good fit for one of the 85†war birds though.
Captmicom
11-29-2011, 09:52 AM
#5732
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: Captmicom
Hey Blake,
Not sure it will fit in the 70'' planes because of the plug angle. Plug hole to plug hole is 7.5†plus two times 5/8†for the plugs and CDI caps comes out to 8.75†might be a good fit for one of the 85†war birds though.
Captmicom
Hey Blake,
Not sure it will fit in the 70'' planes because of the plug angle. Plug hole to plug hole is 7.5†plus two times 5/8†for the plugs and CDI caps comes out to 8.75†might be a good fit for one of the 85†war birds though.
Captmicom
11-29-2011, 12:29 PM
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RE: RCGF Engines
Yup it would look good too!! I started asking RCGF for a twin 40cc, a twin 30cc, a twin 12xcc, and a twin 180cc about two years ago give or take. We will need to see how the 40cc sells before a 30cc comes along is my guess.
Captmicom
Captmicom
11-29-2011, 01:35 PM
#5736
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RE: RCGF Engines
Yes that model.
Cowling is 9 3/4 (prolly more 9 1/4 where the cylinders would be) . Engine is 200mm wide (7" 7/8) from base of spark plug to base of spark plug.
Cowling is 9 3/4 (prolly more 9 1/4 where the cylinders would be) . Engine is 200mm wide (7" 7/8) from base of spark plug to base of spark plug.
11-29-2011, 01:56 PM
#5737
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RE: RCGF Engines
ORIGINAL: Captmicom
Hey Blake,
Not sure it will fit in the 70'' planes because of the plug angle. Plug hole to plug hole is 7.5†plus two times 5/8†for the plugs and CDI caps comes out to 8.75†might be a good fit for one of the 85†war birds though.
Captmicom
Hey Blake,
Not sure it will fit in the 70'' planes because of the plug angle. Plug hole to plug hole is 7.5†plus two times 5/8†for the plugs and CDI caps comes out to 8.75†might be a good fit for one of the 85†war birds though.
Captmicom
Guess, the biggest question is, which planes will this engine fit in? Aerobatic planes, I can only think of EF 78" extra or great planes yak 54 3d. What else?
11-29-2011, 06:02 PM
#5738
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RE: RCGF Engines
Hey Windgap,
That is the $64,000.00 question. I just measured one of our 30cc/26% YAK54s and the cowl at the fuse is 8.75†wide. I did re-measure the top of a 20cc “oops!!†It is 1.25†not 5/8â€. I am very sorry for the FUBAR. The 5/8†is for the angle plug clearance. Anyway it will most likely whined up being used in scale apps is my guess.
Captmicom
That is the $64,000.00 question. I just measured one of our 30cc/26% YAK54s and the cowl at the fuse is 8.75†wide. I did re-measure the top of a 20cc “oops!!†It is 1.25†not 5/8â€. I am very sorry for the FUBAR. The 5/8†is for the angle plug clearance. Anyway it will most likely whined up being used in scale apps is my guess.
Captmicom
11-30-2011, 06:57 PM
#5739
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RE: RCGF Engines
Got a preview of the 40cc twin. This is what I'm going to put in my new Waco. Should sound good with pitts mufflers as well. Hope BP don't mind my posting it. They said it would be on their site tomorrow. Enjoy
11-30-2011, 09:19 PM
#5743
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RE: RCGF Engines
how about only 1 bolt holding each one on lol. Unless its well hidden somewhere I dont see. I also think they should have staggard them so the stacks line up equally across from each other. Just my view
WBG
WBG
12-01-2011, 05:33 AM
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RE: RCGF Engines
Hey Wild Man the shafts finally got here yesterday. PM me your mail address and I will get it out to you ASAP! BTW they are 9.95mm so there must be more then one place making them.
Captmicom
Captmicom
12-01-2011, 07:15 AM
#5749
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RE: RCGF Engines
That is very odd. They could have used the same muffler for both sides and it would have been just as close. All that did was add extra time and money to modify an extra muffler.
I looked at the muffler again and I believe it is installed backwards. If turned around it wouldn't interfere with the firewall.
I looked at the muffler again and I believe it is installed backwards.
If turned around it wouldn't interfere with the firewall.
12-01-2011, 07:46 AM
#5750
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RE: RCGF Engines
If I'm not mistaken that plate is in place of the dog ear's, which is better and it still require's stand-off's. Which according to their website stand-off's come with it.