Captmicom

Hey Falcon,

It could be multiple things but the one thing that comes to mind right off is the metering ports or jets. It sounds like the low speed port/jet could be partly blocked. As you increase the throttle you start increasing the amount of fuel coming out of the high speed port/jet. That would be as close as I can get without seeing the carb.

Captmicom

Falcon32

You don't think it's a simple tuning issue then??

Thanks

Captmicom

No not if you have crossed your "T's" and dotted your "I's" with your timing and so on. I have seen some of these carbs look beat up pretty bad. When you look down the throat of the carb it looks like someone got after it with a sharp piece of metal where they try to scrap material from around some of the ports/jets.

Captmicom

Falcon.. you can try one last neddle tweak on the low end to see if it will help. I would open the low end up a bit more but I don't know that it will get any better.

Falcon32

Captmicon
That's the only thing I can think of left to try, will give it a go on the weekend.

Thanks


Falcon

WildeOne

My Feedback: (1)

A few pages back someone inquired about a degree wheel for setting timing. Here's a free one you print, paste to thin ply or cardboard. I've been using it for three or four years now. Ignore the stuff about valves!

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

I need some help. I have a 45cc side carb that I got used. The mounting ears on the rear crankcase all broke off(engine stand mistake). I took the rear cover off and see a press fit bearing. Can someone help me with the procedure of reinstalling this cover? Do I need to heat anything or just tap the bearing on. Right now its still mostly on the crank.

Warbirdguy

Most of those bearings are a tight fit but not entirely pressed on. I use a deep well socket that will slip over the shaft to tap them back into place. Or, depending on the particular model. finish pulling the bearing off the shaft and install it back into the rear cover. There again, find a socket that will fit into the hole loosely in rear cover. Place the bearing in place, it will probably not slide into the hole. Then use the socket as a bushing against the bearing to lightly tap it back in until it seats. You may still have to tap on the outside of the rear cover to seat the bearing over the crank shaft when you install it back onto the motor. Hope thats clearer than mud LOL.

Most all brands have the bearing in the rear cover and they slip over crank when installed.

WBG

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you awarm up the bearing pocket, the bearing will be a drop in fit.

gringopete

The bearings are install with a bearing adhesive. You have to heat the ebaring pocket to get the bearing out. Don't try to push it out untill you heat it up.

Warbirdguy

If you do it correctly. no heat will be needed. Ive done it both ways for years. I have yet to ruin a part. The main thing is, if your putting it into the rear cover, use a socket to rest on the outer rim of the bearing to tap it in. Or push it is better with a press. never push on the inside race. You can damage the race and/or balls in the bearing.

Im sure Ill get hate mail for not heating it. But, when they are installed at the factory, they are not heated

As far as bearing adhesive?????? Do you mean loctite? If so, dont do it. It will make it difficult to remove next time it needs replacing. If you have a worn out rear cover, and the bearing just slips in and can move it around easily, then you might want to use something. But if its that worn out, just replace the crank case.

WBG

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

okay thanks for all the advice, if I decide to also replace the front bearing will It definateley take the engine out of timing? If so how do you time these? if someone can assure me its in this thread somewhere I will go through all pages but I haven't found anything yet.besides the timing wheel which looks very useful but I dont understand it yet.

Thanks

Captmicom

The only way you could knock the engine out of time would to "NOT" put it back together the same way you took it apart. Just make sure you DO NOT loose your key. The key is a sort of half round. The round side goes in a slot (Keyway) on the crank, and the flat side goes in the slot (Keyway) on the prop hub. Put it back together like that and you will be fine.

Captmicom

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

cool thanks

Warbirdguy

Yup, Captmicom is correct. Its kinda fool proof Just put it back the way you took it apart. Only thing I will add is, when you put it back together, use some light lubricant on the seal lips. I use vaseline. Heavy grease is not recomended. Vaseline has a low melting temp and washes away easily with fuel so when engine starts up, any remaining around seals and bearins internally, will just wash out and not clog up any lubricating passages or bearings Other than that, I think we all have giving you enough info to carry on with confidence. Good luck to you, and let us know how it turns out.

On a different note, hows the weather up there? We vacation alot in that area, Luxemburg, Algoma, Kewanee, Washington Island, just to name a few places. I used to live in Luxemburg. Been to Green Bay maney times when we lived there.

WBG

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

we had two inches of slush on tues which is gone already and 50s this weekend. If you're ever around gb you should come out and test our field.

Warbirdguy

I doubt wife would allow me to take up precious cargo space for something like a RC plane lol so I guess if I do, it will be to observe. But if Im in town, I will take advantage of the offer.

Was in the 60's here today, so took advantage of it and finished the color on this T6. Putting a G-62 on it for power. Converting it to electronic ingition. The kit will be here tomorrow.

Take care and keep warm

WBG

acerc

Well I had fun this morning. Went to the field this mornung, on my third flight the engine stalled. Have not had an issue with any of my RCGF's till then. Got a nice dead stick landing. Went thru the usual diagnostic procedure and could not find anything wrong. Commenced to trying to restart,  would not start to save my azz. Long story short, the throttle linkage had broke. That plastic clevis attatched to the servo must have had something wrong with it. The way it broke left it in front of the servo, if it wasn't for the return spring I would have had to fly around till it ran out of fuel and at about 45min of fuel that would not have been fun.

Warbirdguy

I have to remember that one Next time I late coming home from flying, I can say "uh...honey...I couldnt leave, my throttle linkage broke and had to fly till it ran out of fuel" Man, it sucked big time too. I really wanted to be home with you

Yep, it just might work lol

Glad you got it back in one piece. Good arguement for leaving the return spring on. I do now on all mine.

aussiesteve

Reminds me of the technical and medical difference between having "Guts" and having "Balls".

Guts - you come home after a night out with the boys. She is there with a broom in her hand and you ask her "Are you still cleaning or are you going out to fly?".

Balls - you come home after a night out, covered in lipstick and smelling of perfume. You slap her on the backside and say "you're next fatty".

Either way, the result is the same - Death.

Good save acerc. That is exactly why I leave the throttle springs connected.

Captmicom

Rob,

I have Opta-kill switches for that at $18.00 they are a great insurance policy.

Captmicom

Captmicom

Good one Steve!! I was laughing so hard sitting here with my bed time snack that milk came out of my nose!! Man I hate that!!

Captmicom [:-]

acerc

Capticom, I have opto-kill on all my gasser's and remote choke. 
aussiesteve, I'm with Capt on that one. My side's hurt this mornig from laughing so hard last night. Showed the wife and she agreed with you on the end result's.

Captmicom

Smart Man..... On both accounts!!

airtime82

My Feedback: (3)

How can you tell if the engine you have is in timing when you get it?