nice vid jake ... couldent take it no more, so i ordered one of the 45's hopefully it wont take too long to get.. its going in a ultrarc g-202 should be pleanty of power... thanx in advance henry tim

jake you didnt tell say on youtube what engine is in it.

ppl might think its running the 35cc.

Got some numbers on he 50cc today. It belongs to a flying buddy. We dialed it in on a Xoar 23x8. It has only had about 1/2 gallon through it and is turning 5780 rpms. Also hooked it up to a digital scale to get an idea of how it pulled. The scaled read 26 lbs 13 ozs. It may get to 6000 rpms with some run time.

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Yeah, a 22x8 is what he is going to. Most 50cc's run a 23x8 but it looks like that may be to much load for his.

Yea thats big for break in,i used a Xoar 21/8 got 7850,get 7150 w/22/8,good luck!

Good point, I just threw it up there quickly

thanks

edit: I just checked and it says 45 in the intro

Makes sense. Also the 2 o'clock position seems to help props stop in an angle where the blades (2 blade props only, and if they are stopped.) are horizontal saving props from the damages caused by a bad landing or faulty landing gear.

T.O.M, thanks for the prop article. It was very helpful. Although I have been convinced multi bolt is the way to go, I can also see it can easily ruin your props, too, even with a drill press. The wood grain can play games with your otherwise straight drill bits.


Piston,

- Re: 26 cc Mounting Template

The vertical distance between the mounting holes in the 26 cc templates say 49 mm. The users' manual says it's 50 mm. I measured my 26 and found it's closer to 50 mm than 49 mm. I'm not 100% convinced my measurement is correct. I used a caliper and measured several times. I don't have a good center hole locater.

The drawing mention carburetor outline, but it seems missing. Is it incomplete? The carburetor outline will be very helpful.

Best Regards.

TOM, re your prop mounting post, that's another A+ in my book . And on behalf of the rest of us who possibly never knew it all, thanks a bunch.

Karol

Hey Testpilot6 If you want it here is what I found .The bolt pattern is correct. I marked it out on a large board and mounted the engine .Then I bolted a flat board on the prop adabtor and a pin and turned the prop with pin on it full rotation and this gives dead center for prop swing. The 49 should be divided like this. from center down bottom of engine mounting bolt is 30mm and up to top of engine mounting bolt is 19mm . Hope this helps you. Fooped

Thank you for the input. But I don't understand how it proves 49 mm is correct. The standoffs that comes with the engine is 50 mm long and the diameter of the bottom is approximately 14 mm, top end is about 11 mm, the hole is off centered varying from almost right on up to 1 mm. If you are 1 mm off, that takes 0.5 mm from each end. The tilt would be arctangent (0.01) or 0.00017 degrees. The board will dent slightly but you won't notice.

However, if you make a metal bracket that mates directly to the engine mount, 1 mm will be a big difference.

Right now my bigger problem is the cutout for the carburetor. A carb template will help.

Maybe the reason for the lack of the carb template could be the odd shape of the carb. The cutout profile can vary according to how far the cutout is relative to the engine.

However, I'm also contemplating another approach, where I don't have to worry about a cutout.

Sorry I thought you were talking about the bolt pattern that you bolt the standoffs and engine to the fire wall. Not the standoff themselves. I used the stand offs and cut hole in firewall to clear the carb on my pattern . made and kept temp for later use. The wide foot on the standoff goes to the firewall and the 11mm on the engine. The lenght is going to vary per mount as far as the hole drilled in them as long as they are flat which I found nothing wrong with mine they do'nt have to be perfect. If I made my own out of square hardwood and was going to box the carb in then you would want to be more accurate in drilling the mounting holes.

Please don't be sorry. I appreciate any input. And I was talking about the bolt pattern. The length of the standoffs happened to be 50mm, same as the center to center vertical distance of the bolt holes. I just checked the Operation Manual and the Spec sheet.
It's 50mm(1.96) x 68.5mm (2.70). So maybe it's a matter of tolerance.

Yes you are correct I used vertical center of 49mm and horizonal of 68mm but to put the prop in the center had to use 19mm and 30 mm and it worked out perfectly. On the templet on the web it showed 24.5mm up and down this should be changed to 30mm and above it should be show 19mm for a total of 49mm. then the prop would be on center line.

.

Finally got to fire up the 50cc Twin and was very impressed. Ran 4 tanks through it with a total run time of about 50 minutes and a little under 1/2 gallon consumed. Temp was 26*F, 60 ft ASL. Fuel was 89 octane (10% ethanol, of course) and Pennzoil Air-cooled low ash 32:1. Prop was TBM 21x8. Reliable idle after first 2 tanks was 1800 RPM, high 6580 RPM. Nice running engine with outstanding transition, RPM's probably held down a bit by my jury-rigged muffler extensions, made from some PTFE (Teflon) elbows and an old wing tube. Henry advised that the 2-into-1 header won't be available until sometime in March and I didn't want to cut the cowl for the stacks, hence the modification...

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNg1F...e=channel_page

Nice video. You can really see how little vibration this engine has. Keep us posted!
Sam

Do I need to buy a kill switch for my 26. If so, what kind. If not, then this message will self destruct in 30 sec.

Hey Goirish
LOTS of commentary on do you need one or not. ALL points of view are valid on both sides of the discussion.

Listed are options for killing your engine safely.
1. Servo on choke plate. The reason is for easy of starting, but also for stopping the engine either at the flight line or if you experience a throttle related issue in the air.
2. REMOVE the idle stop screw. This will assure that the carb throttle plate will close all the way and that this bolt will NOT vibrate its way down in time giving you a higher than needed idle. This trick is used by many modelers. In fact, I will be updating my manuals with this item.
3. Use another servo to mechanically turn off your ignition switch.
4. Use an Ignition kill switch.

and of course the FINAL SOLUTION

5. Dump the plane and hope for the best.... It is called DOWN elevator solution.

Many modelers use the KISS method. The simpler the wiring the less chance for problems. Again... extremely valid methodology and thought.
Personally... I advocate the use of ignition kill switches because of that possible one in a million chance that a situation will occur that may cause injury to people and to lesser extent property. I call it my "peace of mind" policy. And for me.. it is worth the small cost of the switch!

Cheers
Henry

Thanks Henry You said that you use kill switches, any particular kind? No one at our club flys gassers so I am stuck out on a limb all alone. I think some other members are very interested in gas, in fact a couple have come to my home to look at the engine. They seemed to be impressed with what they saw, oh yea I think they like the engine too.

Hey Jake,

I just got a chance to see your video of the Aero Works plane powered by the RCGF 45 cc engine. That was great, thanks for sharing. It sure gets me excited about installing my new RCGF 45 into my GP Giant Super Sportster but I have to be paitent until the pitts muffer that I ordered with the engine is available. The engine performance looks really great and I can't hardly wait.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (Roger)

Glad you enjoyed the video!

Hey Goirish

There are several kinds on the market today. Choices are always out there.
For years I have been using the 42 Percent Products. I was put onto them by a fellow modeler who swears by them, and sold me one of his, to get me going. I have a customer ever since. In fact go here for more information

[link=http://www.zrcgf.com/store/Details.cfm?ProdID=44&category=9]Remote Electronic Cut off Switch[/link]

Cheers
Henry

Well, fu=inally maidened the P-4y/26cc yesterday. Of course, it was a lot colder at the field and a lot of moisture in the air - so the motor that strated on two flips in Lakewood made me work a bit - had to adjust the low end (and probably should have adjusted the high end as well).

Flight went well - IMHO 18x8 is too much prop though - plane was a lot slower than I was expecting. I'm going to try a 16x8 next week, plus tune the top a bit tighter at the field. Pretty much had to fly at full throttle the whole flight - burned through 15 oz or so of fuel - but was paying attention to the plane not my watch, so I can't tell you how long (Gary might know)