Can someone help me with hooking up the lines to a walbro carb. The engine is a 26 size from Brillelli from before they went out of business. It originally came with a ZAMA carb, but it didn't, so he sent me a walbro carb. There are 4 nippels and I have no idea what goes where. I attached some pictures, hopefully they will help.

You need to run a hose between the two nipples in the first picture. This is for your pulse pressure to run the fuel pump.

The nipple on the left in the second picture and on top in the last picture is where your gas line hooks on.

I can't quite see but if there is another nipple on the back it is not used and should be plugged if it is not plugged already.

Super has you covered for all but the one that points toward the firewall. That is the vent for the metering diaphragm. Run a hose from it to the inside of the fuse and you can just leave it open, put it in a small pill bottle with a couple 1/16" holes drilled in it or build a small balsa box to put it in with a couple small holes in it, it should not be plugged.

That is what that is. I couldn't quite tell if there was one there. I was thinking of a fuel return when he said 4 nipples. Doh, didn't even think about someone putting a nipple on the metering diaphragm cover already.

OK, I hooked up the carb as you guys mentioned. And I tried to run the engine. When I tried to choke it to get fuel to the carb, I noticed that the fuel wasn't getting all the way to the carb. I put a starter to the nose cone and the the fuel in the line never moved. The engine has good compression. I tried blowing on the vent line of the fuel tank to see if I could get some fuel to the carb and it wouldn't move. It's as if the carb is plugged. So I took the carb covers off and verified that the gaskets are OK, and the diaphram and spring are OK. Any ideas?

Sounds like you are not getting pulse pressure to the carb. Check to see that there are no leaks or blockages from the little hole in the cylinder head through the insulator going to the hose that you hooked up between the two nipples on top in the first picture.

here ya go, a little visual help;

If the engine has been sitting for a long time it may have a stuck inlet needle. Try this, ignition OFF. Full throttle and use your thumb or finger to completely close off the velocity stack then briskly flip engine over or use your starter. Once fuel gets to carb keep flipping 10 or 12 more times to fully fill the carb and get some gas into the engine. If you then open the choke and close the throttle to a high idle setting and hear a wet snotty sound as you turn the engine over you are good to go.

If that doesn't work I have done this; Remove the carb and both the pump cover and the metering diaphragm cover, gently remove the associated diaphragms and gaskets as well as the filter screen. If you are careful they can be reused without any problem. Now put a drop or two of 2 stroke oil into the hole that the filter screen was in then depress the inlet needle lever arm to force the needle open and allow the oil to flow through and around the needle. Wipe off any excess and reassemble carb wiping a bit of oil on the pump diaphragm as well. Give it another try.

I had my lines crossed, I followed your directions, but the pictures I took were upside down and somehow I transposed them. Thanks for editing the pictures, that helped. So I got the engine to run, but it only seems to run ok at idle. As soon as I start to apply throttle it either stalls, or runs crappy, I think it's not exploding on every cycle. I tried playing with the High and Low needles, but they are very sensitive. An 1/8th of a turn is the difference between running badly and not running at all. This is the same problem I was having with the ZAMA carb. Do you think it could be a bad electronic ignition? It's a CH I believe.

with throttle at idle look into carb at throttle plate. you should see the bottom of the screw holding the plate, not the head of the screw