DLE30!
05-03-2010 | 12:09 PM
#2476
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From: St Louis, MO
RE: NEW DLE30!
Just curious - what was done wrong in the binding process exactly? I guess this is only speculation that it was even that, since you mention pilot error
So, to be clear, this plane just took off, full speed but never really lifted? Hit a 4x4 post, I'm assuming dead on the nose? I can't imagine a wing breaking a 4x4 post!
So, to be clear, this plane just took off, full speed but never really lifted? Hit a 4x4 post, I'm assuming dead on the nose? I can't imagine a wing breaking a 4x4 post!
05-03-2010 | 12:11 PM
#2477
My Feedback: (16)
RE: NEW DLE30!
I used to fly at a field where there were a couple people that had what I would consider unsafe set ups and that followed poor logic as far as flight safety was concerned.
Now there is usually just me and one other guy and he's prettty good at it.
Now there is usually just me and one other guy and he's prettty good at it.
05-03-2010 | 12:38 PM
#2479
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NEW DLE30!
Precisely the point!!![sm=thumbs_up.gif] And the ability to fly does not reference the abiity to build or set up, which was also an issue in this case since the plane was "built" by someone else that could fly but had extremely limited building experience. However, the builder does fly quite well.
Jody, a ZN Line Extra will fly slower than that Sukhoi did.
Jody, a ZN Line Extra will fly slower than that Sukhoi did.
05-03-2010 | 01:19 PM
#2482
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NEW DLE30!
Yes, it is.
Clarification: I suspect I know the cause. Post mortem did not reveal any other potential causes.
I won't delve into the binding process. Too many different radios and each needs to have the manual read and understood. That's one of the lessons learned in this event. Some manuals are excellent and have a lot of depth, and some not as good, but all have information that needs to be used when setting up and using the equipment. How can you do it right if you don't know what could be wrong?
Same applies to engines, recievers, servos, linkage installations, fancy electrical accessory equipment, and mounting practices. This event exemplifies my opposition to "buy and fly" products. if the owner/user does not understand what they have the only people that benefit from the sale are the manufacturers and distributors. Nothing against arfs in general, but way too many people entering the hobby from the high end becasue of easy, ready to fly, big plane availability. There's still something to be said about picking up some of the basics first.
Clarification: I suspect I know the cause. Post mortem did not reveal any other potential causes.
I won't delve into the binding process. Too many different radios and each needs to have the manual read and understood. That's one of the lessons learned in this event. Some manuals are excellent and have a lot of depth, and some not as good, but all have information that needs to be used when setting up and using the equipment. How can you do it right if you don't know what could be wrong?
Same applies to engines, recievers, servos, linkage installations, fancy electrical accessory equipment, and mounting practices. This event exemplifies my opposition to "buy and fly" products. if the owner/user does not understand what they have the only people that benefit from the sale are the manufacturers and distributors. Nothing against arfs in general, but way too many people entering the hobby from the high end becasue of easy, ready to fly, big plane availability. There's still something to be said about picking up some of the basics first.
05-03-2010 | 01:36 PM
#2483
My Feedback: (19)
RE: NEW DLE30!
Tired Old Man,
I have to agree with you, knowing your craft and how it was built from the first stick to the last piece of covering Can be a big advantage, and I've always thought that myself. The irony is that I went to a fly-in recently where the majority of the models were kit-built or long-time owned, and I didn't see a lot of what you and I would have expected. I saw one guy tuning up some things on his plane using his radio, THEN walking up and down the pits and flight line asking if anybody was on his frequency..... ***SIGH*** And that was just the beginning. Seems everybody is running their own show these days, comments are unwelcome but they'll give them to YOU....
So, I guess I don't know WHAT to think now... Things have sure changed, I know THAT much...
~ Jim ~
I have to agree with you, knowing your craft and how it was built from the first stick to the last piece of covering Can be a big advantage, and I've always thought that myself. The irony is that I went to a fly-in recently where the majority of the models were kit-built or long-time owned, and I didn't see a lot of what you and I would have expected. I saw one guy tuning up some things on his plane using his radio, THEN walking up and down the pits and flight line asking if anybody was on his frequency..... ***SIGH*** And that was just the beginning. Seems everybody is running their own show these days, comments are unwelcome but they'll give them to YOU....
So, I guess I don't know WHAT to think now... Things have sure changed, I know THAT much...
~ Jim ~
05-03-2010 | 02:58 PM
#2484
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From: Beautiful NW Montana,
MT
RE: NEW DLE30!
Here's a "before" shot of the plane, a few weeks ago at the same field.
As a relative newbie to the hobby, I've not seen much carnage on this scale. It hurt to watch that go into the fence.
As a relative newbie to the hobby, I've not seen much carnage on this scale. It hurt to watch that go into the fence.
05-03-2010 | 03:07 PM
#2485
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NEW DLE30!
The cause of the crash may have been isolated to a poor power connection inside the Tx. That's the latest. Had it been bound correctly, and had failsafes set, this would not have happened. So it is indeed "pilot error" in not using the tools at his disposal prior to the flight.
Texas,
Experienced much of what you described two weeks ago. Much of the stuff at the event was kit or scratch built. Lots of later arfs too, but not as prevalent. Some real dumb stuff went on there. Last I heard, there were 16 different crash events over a three day meet. Most all of them for the same reason: dead stick and incorrect response to the condition. Helps to understand how hobby shops stay in business.
I suppose we should get back to the DLE 30, but there were some real important lesson plans for gas newbies, or anyone for that matter, in the past few posts.
Texas,
Experienced much of what you described two weeks ago. Much of the stuff at the event was kit or scratch built. Lots of later arfs too, but not as prevalent. Some real dumb stuff went on there. Last I heard, there were 16 different crash events over a three day meet. Most all of them for the same reason: dead stick and incorrect response to the condition. Helps to understand how hobby shops stay in business.
I suppose we should get back to the DLE 30, but there were some real important lesson plans for gas newbies, or anyone for that matter, in the past few posts.
05-03-2010 | 06:43 PM
#2489
My Feedback: (10)
RE: NEW DLE30!
The DLE 30 That I got from Ralph is running strong. The engine gets stronger as it get more time on it. No dout that there is an issue with the engine but it doesn't effect it in the air. I don't even think about it any more. Just fuel it up and fly the s..t out of it.
05-04-2010 | 10:00 AM
#2492
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From: Washougal,
WA
RE: NEW DLE30!
T.O.M., looks like you got you Compy from back home. That's good to see. The only thing I don't like about that particular field is the high line wires. I watched a very good flyer strain a 35% Yak during the freestyle event at their first IMAC event. It was aweful! There is a video somewhere.....here it is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8WMopM-2uw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8WMopM-2uw
05-04-2010 | 10:18 AM
#2494
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NEW DLE30!
True, but you have to consider the attitude of the person that hit the wires. He was well informed of them when he asked about the proximity. They really are easy to miss. Very few have ever hit them. At least you can land from both directions and even across the field if the wind gets real bad
Plus you will never have to face the prospect of retrieving your plane from a city sewage facility...
Yea, I brought the Compy and the 46% Ultimate back up with me. Still have to re-fit all the Ultimate gear.
Plus you will never have to face the prospect of retrieving your plane from a city sewage facility...Yea, I brought the Compy and the 46% Ultimate back up with me. Still have to re-fit all the Ultimate gear.
05-04-2010 | 07:29 PM
#2495
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From: Haines City, FL
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: terryscustom
Kill switch is cheap safety! 42% products makes a great one and you can get one from ValleyView or Troy Built Models. Connection instructions are included and are easy. Just use the gear switch on your TX or another switch that you won't easily hit by mistake. I put a small section of fuel tube on my switch as a reminder.
Blind nuts can be found at a hardware store or www.microfasteners.com or countless other sources. Use Locktite and lock washers!! And, check fasteners frequently......again, safety.
The spral tubing is used to wrap your hall sensor wire and other wires to protect against vibration and rubbing through the wires....great stuff! I have never found a use for that extra little wire, myself. I have 3 RCGF, 5 DLE and 1 ZDZ engines and they all came with that same wire. My guess is a tachometer connection of some sort.
Ask 100 people about oil and you will get 100 different answers. I've always used Stihl mineral oil (black bottle) for the first gallon or so, and then switched to Stihl Ultra (white bottle) at 32:1 and it works great. Not too messy and engine does not get hotter than recommended.
Good Luck, and be patient with the needles! I've got about 30 flights on my DLE 30 in an AeroWorks Yak 1.20 and it is a monster!
Kill switch is cheap safety! 42% products makes a great one and you can get one from ValleyView or Troy Built Models. Connection instructions are included and are easy. Just use the gear switch on your TX or another switch that you won't easily hit by mistake. I put a small section of fuel tube on my switch as a reminder.
Blind nuts can be found at a hardware store or www.microfasteners.com or countless other sources. Use Locktite and lock washers!! And, check fasteners frequently......again, safety.
The spral tubing is used to wrap your hall sensor wire and other wires to protect against vibration and rubbing through the wires....great stuff! I have never found a use for that extra little wire, myself. I have 3 RCGF, 5 DLE and 1 ZDZ engines and they all came with that same wire. My guess is a tachometer connection of some sort.
Ask 100 people about oil and you will get 100 different answers. I've always used Stihl mineral oil (black bottle) for the first gallon or so, and then switched to Stihl Ultra (white bottle) at 32:1 and it works great. Not too messy and engine does not get hotter than recommended.
Good Luck, and be patient with the needles! I've got about 30 flights on my DLE 30 in an AeroWorks Yak 1.20 and it is a monster!
Hate to ask again.
But do i need to buy a Kill Switch? Or can't I just kill the engine like I do with my glow engine and use a throttle kill switch where it closes the gap in the carb and thus turning the engine off?
Um what is the hall sensor??
On my ignition there are 3 wires coming out of it... One with a red cap which is for the battery, another long black one which connects to the sensor that is in the front of the engine near the hub.. and another that says tachometer.. What do I connect there or does it have any use??
Also i plan on buying another DLE 30 for a Funtana 90 S I got at a great price but after mocking up the engine I noticed the carburator opening was very very close to the side of the cowling.. Besides drilling a big hole on the side of thew cowling so the carburator can breathe.. is there something else? like a Velocity stack or similar??
Also very important. How do i install the ignition? do i wrap it in foam?
05-04-2010 | 07:45 PM
#2496
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From: worthing,
SD
RE: NEW DLE30!
Quick question. I went to start my engine tonight, and it would not fire. It is getting gas, and it gets spark when I flip my kill switch. Is the pickup bad?
05-04-2010 | 07:47 PM
#2497
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NEW DLE30!
Yep, that's my Yak
Only took me 4 years to get around to finishing it. A whole lot of interruptions
Regarding that ignition. If you only get one spark, and only when the ignition is turned on, there's a good possibility that the hall sensor is out.
Next previous question;
No you do not have to have a kill switch and yes you can kill the engine just like you do your glow engines. You only need to set up your throttle linkage correctly and set up the end points of the throttle servo correctly. Many newcomers to gas engines are convinced that a separate kill switch is absolutely mandatory for safety reasons. For some reason they think a gas engine is more dangerous than a big glow engine, but they don't use a kill switch on a big glow engine. Go figure.
Only took me 4 years to get around to finishing it. A whole lot of interruptionsRegarding that ignition. If you only get one spark, and only when the ignition is turned on, there's a good possibility that the hall sensor is out.
Next previous question;
No you do not have to have a kill switch and yes you can kill the engine just like you do your glow engines. You only need to set up your throttle linkage correctly and set up the end points of the throttle servo correctly. Many newcomers to gas engines are convinced that a separate kill switch is absolutely mandatory for safety reasons. For some reason they think a gas engine is more dangerous than a big glow engine, but they don't use a kill switch on a big glow engine. Go figure.
05-04-2010 | 07:53 PM
#2498
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From: Blackfoot ,
ID
RE: NEW DLE30!
Hummmmmm DLE was suppose to have there new rear carb plates out by now wonder where that went to?
The hall sensor is the one that is on the engine front case you just mentioned, its the one that hooks up to your ign.
I just put the tach wire inside of the plastic wrap and forget it unless you want to use there onboard tach.
Yep add some foam to the ign it won't take very much, as a rule I just cut a piece of hi density foam to put under it and add some zip ties to hold things in place.
The hall sensor is the one that is on the engine front case you just mentioned, its the one that hooks up to your ign.
I just put the tach wire inside of the plastic wrap and forget it unless you want to use there onboard tach.
Yep add some foam to the ign it won't take very much, as a rule I just cut a piece of hi density foam to put under it and add some zip ties to hold things in place.
05-04-2010 | 08:17 PM
#2499
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From: worthing,
SD
RE: NEW DLE30!
Regarding that ignition. If you only get one spark, and only when the ignition is turned on, there's a good possibility that the hall sensor is out.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...#ixzz0n0tnzCfp
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...#ixzz0n0tnzCfp
05-04-2010 | 08:32 PM
#2500
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From: Harrisburg,
SD
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: Night Scream
Thank you terrycustom
Hate to ask again.
But do i need to buy a Kill Switch? Or can't I just kill the engine like I do with my glow engine and use a throttle kill switch where it closes the gap in the carb and thus turning the engine off?
Um what is the hall sensor??
On my ignition there are 3 wires coming out of it... One with a red cap which is for the battery, another long black one which connects to the sensor that is in the front of the engine near the hub.. and another that says tachometer.. What do I connect there or does it have any use??
Also i plan on buying another DLE 30 for a Funtana 90 S I got at a great price but after mocking up the engine I noticed the carburator opening was very very close to the side of the cowling.. Besides drilling a big hole on the side of thew cowling so the carburator can breathe.. is there something else? like a Velocity stack or similar??
Also very important. How do i install the ignition? do i wrap it in foam?
ORIGINAL: terryscustom
Kill switch is cheap safety! 42% products makes a great one and you can get one from ValleyView or Troy Built Models. Connection instructions are included and are easy. Just use the gear switch on your TX or another switch that you won't easily hit by mistake. I put a small section of fuel tube on my switch as a reminder.
Blind nuts can be found at a hardware store or www.microfasteners.com or countless other sources. Use Locktite and lock washers!! And, check fasteners frequently......again, safety.
The spral tubing is used to wrap your hall sensor wire and other wires to protect against vibration and rubbing through the wires....great stuff! I have never found a use for that extra little wire, myself. I have 3 RCGF, 5 DLE and 1 ZDZ engines and they all came with that same wire. My guess is a tachometer connection of some sort.
Ask 100 people about oil and you will get 100 different answers. I've always used Stihl mineral oil (black bottle) for the first gallon or so, and then switched to Stihl Ultra (white bottle) at 32:1 and it works great. Not too messy and engine does not get hotter than recommended.
Good Luck, and be patient with the needles! I've got about 30 flights on my DLE 30 in an AeroWorks Yak 1.20 and it is a monster!
Kill switch is cheap safety! 42% products makes a great one and you can get one from ValleyView or Troy Built Models. Connection instructions are included and are easy. Just use the gear switch on your TX or another switch that you won't easily hit by mistake. I put a small section of fuel tube on my switch as a reminder.
Blind nuts can be found at a hardware store or www.microfasteners.com or countless other sources. Use Locktite and lock washers!! And, check fasteners frequently......again, safety.
The spral tubing is used to wrap your hall sensor wire and other wires to protect against vibration and rubbing through the wires....great stuff! I have never found a use for that extra little wire, myself. I have 3 RCGF, 5 DLE and 1 ZDZ engines and they all came with that same wire. My guess is a tachometer connection of some sort.
Ask 100 people about oil and you will get 100 different answers. I've always used Stihl mineral oil (black bottle) for the first gallon or so, and then switched to Stihl Ultra (white bottle) at 32:1 and it works great. Not too messy and engine does not get hotter than recommended.
Good Luck, and be patient with the needles! I've got about 30 flights on my DLE 30 in an AeroWorks Yak 1.20 and it is a monster!
Hate to ask again.
But do i need to buy a Kill Switch? Or can't I just kill the engine like I do with my glow engine and use a throttle kill switch where it closes the gap in the carb and thus turning the engine off?
Um what is the hall sensor??
On my ignition there are 3 wires coming out of it... One with a red cap which is for the battery, another long black one which connects to the sensor that is in the front of the engine near the hub.. and another that says tachometer.. What do I connect there or does it have any use??
Also i plan on buying another DLE 30 for a Funtana 90 S I got at a great price but after mocking up the engine I noticed the carburator opening was very very close to the side of the cowling.. Besides drilling a big hole on the side of thew cowling so the carburator can breathe.. is there something else? like a Velocity stack or similar??
Also very important. How do i install the ignition? do i wrap it in foam?
