DLE30!
06-24-2011 | 11:15 AM
#4601
Senior Member
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
I think some guys say Viton fuel line is the best. Here is a link below. Capt,n
http://www.dudadiesel.com/viton.php?...cking_id=17:18:
ORIGINAL: outlander
captinjohn
What size and type , brand , of fuel line works best for the DLE 30 and 20 . I have both in projects
and have bought Hayes from Tower for inside the tank , because it was reported to stay flexible for
the longest time . Mistake ?
captinjohn
What size and type , brand , of fuel line works best for the DLE 30 and 20 . I have both in projects
and have bought Hayes from Tower for inside the tank , because it was reported to stay flexible for
the longest time . Mistake ?
http://www.dudadiesel.com/viton.php?...cking_id=17:18:
I tend to agree. In markets where E10 is availableviton fuel lines are fitted to passenger car fuelling systems and those last a good many years before needing to be replaced.
Not sure where Tygon gained a foothold but I suspect smaller dimensions suitable for the small engines used in gardening and foresty equipment had something to do with it
06-24-2011 | 12:23 PM
#4602
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: ameyam
I have a question in mind: the initial DLE30s came with a side carb? My concern is with the newer ones that come with the rear carb, it is difficult to fit them inside the cowls of some airplanes. Why is that change?
Ameyam
I have a question in mind: the initial DLE30s came with a side carb? My concern is with the newer ones that come with the rear carb, it is difficult to fit them inside the cowls of some airplanes. Why is that change?
Ameyam
06-30-2011 | 07:59 AM
#4604
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From: Crystal Lake,
IL
RE: NEW DLE30!
The AW 90-120 Yak-54 should be a good match for this engine.
The only issue with the rear carb on the DLE-30 is that it requires somewhat longer spacing between the firewall and the engine prop hub. Some cowls may need to be modified or longer/shorter engine spacers may be required. In some cases, if the cowl length is shorter than the distance between the engine prop hub and the firewall side of the engine spacers, you might have to modify the firewall so that the carb sticks inside the firewall. Not the most desirable situation, but it does happen in some cases, and does not appear to cause any problems with the operation of the engine.
I don't remember off hand what the minimum distance is for the DLE-30 with a rear carb (and I'm not at home to check mine), but I found this in the AW 90-120 manual:
<div>Note: The required distance from the front of thefirewall to the front of engine prop hub (Backof spinner) is 5-11/16”</div><div>
Anyone know off the top of their head the minimum distance on the DLE-30 with the standard stand-offs?.
</div>-Mike
The only issue with the rear carb on the DLE-30 is that it requires somewhat longer spacing between the firewall and the engine prop hub. Some cowls may need to be modified or longer/shorter engine spacers may be required. In some cases, if the cowl length is shorter than the distance between the engine prop hub and the firewall side of the engine spacers, you might have to modify the firewall so that the carb sticks inside the firewall. Not the most desirable situation, but it does happen in some cases, and does not appear to cause any problems with the operation of the engine.
I don't remember off hand what the minimum distance is for the DLE-30 with a rear carb (and I'm not at home to check mine), but I found this in the AW 90-120 manual:
<div>Note: The required distance from the front of thefirewall to the front of engine prop hub (Backof spinner) is 5-11/16”</div><div>
Anyone know off the top of their head the minimum distance on the DLE-30 with the standard stand-offs?.
</div>-Mike
ORIGINAL: ameyam
Aeroworks Yak 54 QB 90-120- Thats the model
Sorry for the delayed reply, PC issues
Ameyam
Aeroworks Yak 54 QB 90-120- Thats the model
Sorry for the delayed reply, PC issues
Ameyam
06-30-2011 | 08:48 AM
#4605
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From: Tullahoma, TN
RE: NEW DLE30!
How about a DLE 30 in a Rascal 110? Brian
ORIGINAL: ameyam
Aeroworks Yak 54 QB 90-120- Thats the model
Sorry for the delayed reply, PC issues
Ameyam
Aeroworks Yak 54 QB 90-120- Thats the model
Sorry for the delayed reply, PC issues
Ameyam
06-30-2011 | 09:23 AM
#4607
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: mschulz531
The AW 90-120 Yak-54 should be a good match for this engine.
The only issue with the rear carb on the DLE-30 is that it requires somewhat longer spacing between the firewall and the engine prop hub. Some cowls may need to be modified or longer/shorter engine spacers may be required. In some cases, if the cowl length is shorter than the distance between the engine prop hub and the firewall side of the engine spacers, you might have to modify the firewall so that the carb sticks inside the firewall. Not the most desirable situation, but it does happen in some cases, and does not appear to cause any problems with the operation of the engine.
I don't remember off hand what the minimum distance is for the DLE-30 with a rear carb (and I'm not at home to check mine), but I found this in the AW 90-120 manual:
<div>Note: The required distance from the front of thefirewall to the front of engine prop hub (Backof spinner) is 5-11/16”</div><div>
Anyone know off the top of their head the minimum distance on the DLE-30 with the standard stand-offs?.
</div>-Mike
The AW 90-120 Yak-54 should be a good match for this engine.
The only issue with the rear carb on the DLE-30 is that it requires somewhat longer spacing between the firewall and the engine prop hub. Some cowls may need to be modified or longer/shorter engine spacers may be required. In some cases, if the cowl length is shorter than the distance between the engine prop hub and the firewall side of the engine spacers, you might have to modify the firewall so that the carb sticks inside the firewall. Not the most desirable situation, but it does happen in some cases, and does not appear to cause any problems with the operation of the engine.
I don't remember off hand what the minimum distance is for the DLE-30 with a rear carb (and I'm not at home to check mine), but I found this in the AW 90-120 manual:
<div>Note: The required distance from the front of thefirewall to the front of engine prop hub (Backof spinner) is 5-11/16”</div><div>
Anyone know off the top of their head the minimum distance on the DLE-30 with the standard stand-offs?.
</div>-Mike
06-30-2011 | 05:34 PM
#4610
RE: NEW DLE30!
Very easy, notice the relief in the triangle stock. Only time I had to do a minor tweaking was when I took it to a field that was about 2500 ft above my home field. Theye're not like glow as you know, once they get broken in they don't need much if any attention. That engine was one of the first 30s, it had a massive amount of time on it before it got the rear carb mod. I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
06-30-2011 | 05:44 PM
#4611
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From: Egg Harbor City,
NJ
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: jedijody
I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
06-30-2011 | 06:37 PM
#4612
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From: Tullahoma, TN
RE: NEW DLE30!
Thanks. Have a 20 on the way. Brian
ORIGINAL: jedijody
The DLE30 in a Rascal 110 would be a little over kill. A DLE20 would be a better match IMO.
The DLE30 in a Rascal 110 would be a little over kill. A DLE20 would be a better match IMO.
06-30-2011 | 06:39 PM
#4613
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: 2robinhood
Like a Swiss watch, not like a China watch, right ? LOL
ORIGINAL: jedijody
I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
07-02-2011 | 09:46 AM
#4614
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From: Mumbai, INDIA
RE: NEW DLE30!
I will strengthen the wall and many other parts with tristock anyway. Its better to do that then to repair after the fact.
Based on collective data, the engine is 160mm upto spinner and the cowl is 144.4mm which is a difference of just 15mm. Would it be ok if I just left it like that without doing anything to the firewall? The spinner would then just sit a bit further than originally intended, which may not be apparent with the huge 18" prop and I would need to balance the CG out by shifting the battery / adding weights anyway
Few questions- is the metal spinner absolutely essential for the gas engine or will a top quality 3-3.25" nylon spinner with metal backplate such as the this one do?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ssing%20Data**
I know about the gas starter thread, I didnt get my answer there. Metal ones like Tru-turn and madly expensive, difficult for me to obtain here if I make a wrong selection the first time and difficult to modify when you go for a lower pitch prop
Also, what to make of the hub installation for the prop with the four screws? How do you drill the prop for this installation and doesnt it weaken the prop? Sorry if it sounds silly, I have never done anything to a prop before besides sanding down the burr and balancing for my MAS props
Do I need a custom muffler for this airplane or will the stock muffler do?
For non-metallic linkage, can I simply use a nylon clevis between the throttle pushrod and engine throttle arm? My mentor said that would be sufficient. I am still not able to find the non-metallic linkage on Tower
Ameyam
Based on collective data, the engine is 160mm upto spinner and the cowl is 144.4mm which is a difference of just 15mm. Would it be ok if I just left it like that without doing anything to the firewall? The spinner would then just sit a bit further than originally intended, which may not be apparent with the huge 18" prop and I would need to balance the CG out by shifting the battery / adding weights anyway
Few questions- is the metal spinner absolutely essential for the gas engine or will a top quality 3-3.25" nylon spinner with metal backplate such as the this one do?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ssing%20Data**
I know about the gas starter thread, I didnt get my answer there. Metal ones like Tru-turn and madly expensive, difficult for me to obtain here if I make a wrong selection the first time and difficult to modify when you go for a lower pitch prop
Also, what to make of the hub installation for the prop with the four screws? How do you drill the prop for this installation and doesnt it weaken the prop? Sorry if it sounds silly, I have never done anything to a prop before besides sanding down the burr and balancing for my MAS props
Do I need a custom muffler for this airplane or will the stock muffler do?
For non-metallic linkage, can I simply use a nylon clevis between the throttle pushrod and engine throttle arm? My mentor said that would be sufficient. I am still not able to find the non-metallic linkage on Tower
Ameyam
07-02-2011 | 10:42 AM
#4615
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: ameyam
......Based on collective data, the engine is 160mm upto spinner and the cowl is 144.4mm which is a difference of just 15mm. Would it be ok if I just left it like that without doing anything to the firewall? The spinner would then just sit a bit further than originally intended, which may not be apparent with the huge 18" prop and I would need to balance the CG out by shifting the battery / adding weights anyway
<span style="color: #ff0000">If the plane will balance with the engine mounted in that position it will be fine and you're right, you won't notice it much if at all with the big round cowl of the Yak.
</span>
Few questions- is the metal spinner absolutely essential for the gas engine or will a top quality 3-3.25" nylon spinner with metal backplate such as the this one do?
<span style="color: #ff0000">No it's not, in fact for the Yak, no spinner at all is perfectlyacceptable and more true to scale. I strongly do not recommend nylon/plastic spinners on a gas engine like the DLE30.</span>
I know about the gas starter thread, I didnt get my answer there. Metal ones like Tru-turn and madly expensive, difficult for me to obtain here if I make a wrong selection the first time and difficult to modify when you go for a lower pitch prop
<span style="color: #ff0000">Although they make excellent products there are less expensive options than Tru-Turn in aluminum spinners, a hub wouldgive it a more scale look.</span>
Also, what to make of the hub installation for the prop with the four screws? How do you drill the prop for this installation and doesnt it weaken the prop? Sorry if it sounds silly, I have never done anything to a prop before besides sanding down the burr and balancing for my MAS props
<span style="color: #ff0000">Use a drill guide or the prop washer as a guide and a drill press to drill the prop bolt holes. Except for some APC andothers like them, the props intended for this size engine are made with plenty of hub diameter and thickness for drilling of the prop bolt holes, it does not weaken the prop.</span>
Do I need a custom muffler for this airplane or will the stock muffler do?
<span style="color: #ff0000">Many people have put this same combination together with the stock exhaust, Pitts style mufflers are also commonly used but not necessary.</span>
For non-metallic linkage, can I simply use a nylon clevis between the throttle pushrod and engine throttle arm? My mentor said that would be sufficient. I am still not able to find the non-metallic linkage on Tower
<span style="color: #ff0000">Though that would provide the necessary isolation nylon clevises are not a very good choice for a gas engine throttle connection they don't hold up well to the increased vibration levels of a gas engine.A much better choice would bea 4-40push rod with DuBro ball links on both ends.</span>
Ameyam
......Based on collective data, the engine is 160mm upto spinner and the cowl is 144.4mm which is a difference of just 15mm. Would it be ok if I just left it like that without doing anything to the firewall? The spinner would then just sit a bit further than originally intended, which may not be apparent with the huge 18" prop and I would need to balance the CG out by shifting the battery / adding weights anyway
<span style="color: #ff0000">If the plane will balance with the engine mounted in that position it will be fine and you're right, you won't notice it much if at all with the big round cowl of the Yak.
</span>
Few questions- is the metal spinner absolutely essential for the gas engine or will a top quality 3-3.25" nylon spinner with metal backplate such as the this one do?
<span style="color: #ff0000">No it's not, in fact for the Yak, no spinner at all is perfectlyacceptable and more true to scale. I strongly do not recommend nylon/plastic spinners on a gas engine like the DLE30.</span>
I know about the gas starter thread, I didnt get my answer there. Metal ones like Tru-turn and madly expensive, difficult for me to obtain here if I make a wrong selection the first time and difficult to modify when you go for a lower pitch prop
<span style="color: #ff0000">Although they make excellent products there are less expensive options than Tru-Turn in aluminum spinners, a hub wouldgive it a more scale look.</span>
Also, what to make of the hub installation for the prop with the four screws? How do you drill the prop for this installation and doesnt it weaken the prop? Sorry if it sounds silly, I have never done anything to a prop before besides sanding down the burr and balancing for my MAS props
<span style="color: #ff0000">Use a drill guide or the prop washer as a guide and a drill press to drill the prop bolt holes. Except for some APC andothers like them, the props intended for this size engine are made with plenty of hub diameter and thickness for drilling of the prop bolt holes, it does not weaken the prop.</span>
Do I need a custom muffler for this airplane or will the stock muffler do?
<span style="color: #ff0000">Many people have put this same combination together with the stock exhaust, Pitts style mufflers are also commonly used but not necessary.</span>
For non-metallic linkage, can I simply use a nylon clevis between the throttle pushrod and engine throttle arm? My mentor said that would be sufficient. I am still not able to find the non-metallic linkage on Tower
<span style="color: #ff0000">Though that would provide the necessary isolation nylon clevises are not a very good choice for a gas engine throttle connection they don't hold up well to the increased vibration levels of a gas engine.A much better choice would bea 4-40push rod with DuBro ball links on both ends.</span>
Ameyam
07-03-2011 | 01:48 AM
#4618
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From: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: jedijody
LOL, my DLE30 runs much better than my Chinese Rolex, that thing is always dead sticking.
ORIGINAL: 2robinhood
Like a Swiss watch, not like a China watch, right ? LOL
ORIGINAL: jedijody
I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
I sold the air frame but kept the engine, I'm in the process of putting it on another airframe now, it runs like a watch.
07-03-2011 | 06:27 AM
#4619
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From: cayuga,
IN
RE: NEW DLE30!
hey Jody a quick question.
I have 3 dle 30s all great engines, couldnt ask for better.
One of the 30s are in a edge 540 that weighs right at 13lb. For all maneuvers, except for hover it is great, just needs a little more power for good pull out.
I have read the Frank Bowman ring may gain as much as 200 RPMs. And that is a pretty cheap improvement.
Are there any tuned canisters, or any other mufflers (that are any good, and dont weight 8oz) that will gain any descent RPMs. Right now I have the stock muffler.
I am using a xoar 19x8 beechwood prop. I have tried a Zinger pro 20x6, didnt care for the speed nor the prop rip, and a 19x8 CF Mejzlik( which was the best, but heavy).
I have seen 19x7 xoars, but no one seems to have any.
A 400 rpm gain with the xoar 19x8 would probably be enough. Just not sure how to get it.
Thanks
I have 3 dle 30s all great engines, couldnt ask for better.
One of the 30s are in a edge 540 that weighs right at 13lb. For all maneuvers, except for hover it is great, just needs a little more power for good pull out.
I have read the Frank Bowman ring may gain as much as 200 RPMs. And that is a pretty cheap improvement.
Are there any tuned canisters, or any other mufflers (that are any good, and dont weight 8oz) that will gain any descent RPMs. Right now I have the stock muffler.
I am using a xoar 19x8 beechwood prop. I have tried a Zinger pro 20x6, didnt care for the speed nor the prop rip, and a 19x8 CF Mejzlik( which was the best, but heavy).
I have seen 19x7 xoars, but no one seems to have any.
A 400 rpm gain with the xoar 19x8 would probably be enough. Just not sure how to get it.
Thanks
07-03-2011 | 10:49 AM
#4620
RE: NEW DLE30!
You can find headers and canisters for the DLE30 but none are tuned in any way, shape, or form. Mac's, ES Composite, and Tony Clark all have tuned pipes for 30cc engines but the headers are up to you to tune and fit. For good 3D performance your plane is about 1-1/2 lbs to fat. No canister, pipe, prop, or coveted piston ring is going to make her fly like her butts not to big.
I would concentrate on lightening up the airframe or if she's worth it, maybe a little bigger engine or lighter airframe.</p>
07-06-2011 | 06:47 PM
#4621
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From: Grand Island, NE NE
RE: NEW DLE30!
Found a good document, with pics, from 3D Hobby Shop on installing a DLE 30 V2 onto a 30cc airframe. Thought this might help people that are having issues with throttle / choke linkage setups, etc..
www.3dhobbyshop.com/assets/images/DLE30_w_REAR_CARB_INSTALLATION.pdf
www.3dhobbyshop.com/assets/images/DLE30_w_REAR_CARB_INSTALLATION.pdf
07-07-2011 | 03:05 AM
#4622
RE: NEW DLE30!
please can anyone tell me how can i reassemble my dle 30cc rear cab engine; i want to replace a new crank, crankcase and bearings but i dont know whats the right order-sequence to do it . my real problem is that i cannot fit the bearing to the crank and the piston to the crank.
thanks!
thanks!
07-08-2011 | 06:19 AM
#4623
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From: winston,
MO
RE: NEW DLE30!
What size drill bit do you use with valley view's single bolt prop adaptor I have a cheap drill bit set but none of them seem to be the right size.
07-12-2011 | 06:42 AM
#4625
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From: camden, SC
RE: NEW DLE30!
Hey guys need some info. I had an ESM Corsair that had some interference from the engine and meet the planet vertically. Lol. Needless to say the G-38 and airframe are totaled. I am thinking of building another and using a dle 30. The plane will be in the 19 pound range. Do you guys think the 30 can put out as much power as the G-38? Are would I need a bigger motor like the Evolution 35?
