Jody i seen your many post on here and now just saw you were in tacoma. I was at mcchod afb for 15 yrs. left there in 2006. What hobby shop are you guys? there was only two in the area when i left. one just off of I-5 on the river and one in spanaway.

The Hobby Town store is still there in Parkland, RC Hobbies in Lacy, and Hobby World in Tacoma right off the freeway as you remember. We're a web based business specializing in giant scale gas in Puyallup, I live in Tacoma.

www.valleyviewrc.com

Thanks i am still at work and cant look at your site. will when get home. I do plan on getting your single bolt set up for sure. i might get the 30 from tower because of the 60 bucks off. I do like to support hobby shops though when can even it a bit more. i have heard nothing but great reviews about youer services. I had also thought about the 20 for tigercat. these would fly it just fine on a with a 15x10 but would like a bit more power. The tigercat will be around 25-27 lbs

I have a question on the oil residue from my DLE 30... My new DLE 30 and my first gas is leaving a heavy thick black residue on the area of the airplane near the exhaust... Is this a result from my oil to gas mixture being incorrect... I mixed it to be 30 to 1 but could have made a mistake on the gas amount...? I am using the oil as recommended... not synthetic... Or could it be the needle settings... the engine runs great and flys great...

The engine has only been run three times for about 6 minutes each time and only flown the last running...

Oil residue on the bottom of the plane is normal and a good thing, it means you have enough oil in your gas to adequately lubricate, cool,and protect your engine. Type and brandof oil, fuel/oil mixing accuracy, proper mixture adjustments andoperatingtemperature are all key to minimizing the oil residue but not eliminate it completely. New engines will also leave more residue behind as they digest a little bit more fuel than a fully broken in engineand leave some ofthe excess on the bottom of the plane. It will get less and less as the engine breaks in and mixture adjustments are leaned out. If there was no oil on the bottom of the plane, that would be of much more concern.

Thank you Jody for the great infomation... I will continue to enjoy this engine while planning my next larger DLE and airplane.... Thanks again... Richard

Sorry for the double post, clicked the mouse to quickly!


My DLE-30 intitially left lots of residue as well usingthe lawnboy ashless at 32:1 or so as the manual recommends. I noticed after about two gallons on this oil I had quite a carbon build up on the piston head as viewed with the plug out. I guess this is normal though. Now I'm running 40:1 Stihl Ultra HP and the residue on the bottom of the plane is definitely still there, just not as much.

Has anybody tried the cannister and header setup for the DLE 30 that Peak Models sell. I used the search function and did not find anything! I am interested in a muffler that will quiet down the engine.
Thanks in advance
Gordon

+1
I would like just the header for an ES pipe.

Hello guys!
I'm building a hyde mount for my dle30 thats going onto a f3a plane. Heres the question - how far from the firewall (or the mount in this case) does the carb have to be? The original standoff-s leave it quite close.. I cut a hole into the mount, so here where i'm at:


From the carb to the balsa there's a 16mm (5/8") gap. Is this an okay distance? Cant fit a velocity stack though..

The stock stand offs that are included with the DLE30 provide the minimum clearance necessary from the carburetor face to a flat firewall. There should be no problem with your picture. Why can't you fit a velocity stack if desired, make the hole bigger or shape it as needed.

Well, a hyde mount consists of two plates and a rubber sheer between for extra friction, therefore i cannot make hole through the whole mount. I tried it and it didn't work well (as a mount, that is).
http://www.ofremmi.info/HowTo/Hyde-mount/HydeMount.htm

I know what a Hyde mount is and don't understand why they're necessary with a gas engine, I know about vibration but don't know why it's any more problematic for a 2x2 pattern plane than an aerobatic/3Dplane, I don't know everything but I wouldn't use a rubber mount on any gasserworthy ofputting in a model airplane. The DLE30 is a smooth running engine compared to the big YS glow counterpart.

Vibration is a problem for both F3A and 3D planes, i dont think it's more of a problem for F3A, maybe 3D guys just care less, i don't know..
Less vibrations means more battery life and longer lasting servos.
I don't think that there can be something like too little vibrations on the airframe.
Probably hyde mounts are more popular on F3A planes, because you need to have as much precision as you can and minimizing vibrations achieves just that, by reducing servo pot and gear wear for example.
Should make some sense?

Can one of you guys do me a favor and measure you're standoffs for the diameter of the aluminum and the next thing is what size bolts are needed are the 8-32 or 10-32.
Thanks Bill

They are metric

Bolts for the standoffs that come with the DLE 30 are 5MM.. both ends...

Very quiet

You'll need to cut some vents in the cowl to prevent the engine from over heating.

<div>The throttle arm and the choke arm on the carb are very close to each other and the closing action on the throttle is pushing to the fire wall meaning to throttle up the pushrod has to push to open and there is a lot of tension on the spring. It would be better for the pushrod to be pulling under that load.</div><div></div><div>The throttle arm has a screw holding it on, I assume. The chock does not. Can you loosen the screw that holds the arm for throttle and aline it up so it is pulling and not conflicting with the chock are. I want to ask before I go loosening it.</div><div></div><div>Thanks</div><div></div><div>TB</div>

First you should remove the spring or at least detach it. The screw can be taken out BUT the arm has an odd shape and it will not go on in many different positions. I use a nose gear steering arm and can attach it at any angle I choose. They sell aftermarket throttle arms that raise the
height and can be installed at any angle also. Hope this helps and maybe some of the real smart guys will get in on this!

I set my throttle armup 180 degrees from where it was, that way choke and throttle are seperated

Do not remove the throttle spring as this would allow the butterfly to start wareing in the throttle body. Just unhook the spring and move so you will have less tension on the arm.

Fooped....has it right! ...............................................Cap t,n