ORIGINAL: dale691

Guys, just wondering if when you rotate the carby, does the gasket also need to be rotated?

ORIGINAL: ol_seabee

I had a ~5/8'' walbro felt filter clunk clog up from the aforementioned dried oil particles during break-in

With a metal screen filter you can see the debris and also clean it out like new

I do use the larger felt filter in my can tho

I hope the dubro filters work ok.... I bought the 3/32'' for my 30

I imagine the felt filter clunks work fine,,, just don't use OLD 2 stroke oil in the gas

I had over a quart that was many years old and,, shoot to buy decent oil I have to drive a bit so I used it

ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man

Just a thought, but that Dubro filter cleanses to about 80 microns or so. Why put a less capable filter after the best one?

A side benefit of the Wlabro filter clunks is that they are much heavier than a standard clunk and better maintain the position of the fuel pick up in the fuel resevoir. One more benefit is they only need to touch the fuel to effectively suck it up. There isn't another type of clunk on the market that will empty a tank as completely as the felt type. A final benefit is the felt clunks do an extremely good job of breaking up air bubbles.

ORIGINAL: dale691

Just about to install the ignition, went to the instructions nothing there! Why does it have an extra lead out the same hole the timing lead comes out of?

ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man

Just a thought, but that Dubro filter cleanses to about 80 microns or so. Why put a less capable filter after the best one?

A side benefit of the Wlabro filter clunks is that they are much heavier than a standard clunk and better maintain the position of the fuel pick up in the fuel resevoir. One more benefit is they only need to touch the fuel to effectively suck it up. There isn't another type of clunk on the market that will empty a tank as completely as the felt type. A final benefit is the felt clunks do an extremely good job of breaking up air bubbles.

ORIGINAL: ol_seabee

Sounds like mine almost,, mine may be broken in better

I wouldn't trade my DLE 30 for any 2 other motors that size

I like the 3.7 hp and functional rpm range for a normal prop i.e 8 - 10 pitch

Hech yeah! it's what I'm used to and what I get from my 3-W's

I use a 28/10 on my 100 twin and a 32/12 on my 150 twin

DLE nails it with the 19/8

I pepper the throttle too when I harrier,, rev, rev, rev, rev and it never misses a beat

A small engine mechanic friend of mine with 25 years experience mentioned this morning about that other gas motor, " a gas motor turning 9,000 rpm's is gonna throw a rod or something eventually" (no 18% oil like glow) but rpms like glow almost and on 3% oil lol

Choose wisely people, mistakes and failures will eat up your life[8D]

I wish I didn't have that deadstick on a perfect plane from a clogged filter and now I'm waiting on new gear

I'm recently back into the hobby after several years hiatus and have gone for years flying the same airplane in the past...

I'm hoping for more of that same luck.. I have most of it figured out... I usually reinforce landing blocks and firewalls

I like a strong gear also that will flex and return to shape with no damage if possible,, I've seen gear like that and know it's possible

I like the Graph Tech gear ok

ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee

Ferm,

What's your engine's serial number?

ORIGINAL: fern



there we go,
engine number: 01230

ORIGINAL: ghoffman

Can someone tell me what the center to center distance of the 4 mounting standoffs is, and what is the thread size please? I have an idea....

ORIGINAL: ol_seabee

''3.7HP @ 8500 RPMS ''

Looks like the DLE 30 like to makin HP at high rpm too

SURE GLAD it turns an 8 or 10 pitch with authority in the low range like all good aerobatic gas engines do

Pumping the throttle in the low rpm range while harriering is a typical requirement of a good engine

An 8 or 10 pitch is the normal aerobatic prop for a gas motor