BadAzzMaxx

Sure. Mt 35 and DLE sounds the same to me.

brianbrich1

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I have a dle question but not finding a suited thread[:@] So here it is I am not sure if my low end is lean or rich.[&o] Engine runs good and turns a 22x8 at 7450. If i let it idle for maybe 5 seconds and throttle up the response seems to be there but at top end souds a litte bog and then clears out within a second. The engine starts easy 6-7 flips for cold fire (including choke) 1-2 after its flown w/ little down time. A friend at the field says it sounds pretty good but it seems to pull out of a hover a little slow?[&o] Any good advice

w8ye

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I like to make the low end lean enough to where the transition is gone and then I richen it up just enough to where I have good transition then I know where I'm at as far as mixture goes

tele1974

Metal throttle control rods? I thought that was a no no.... is it different now with 2.4? I thought that gave a way for RF noise to travel up the throttle servo? I usually put a RF choke on the throttle wire anyway. I know a metal push rod to metal clevis would certainly cause vibration RF noise. Is the nylon ball link connector enough to stop the RF from traveling?

Super08

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jedijody

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That installation is on 72 Mhz and PPM. There is nothing wrong with metal control rods, what you want to avoid like the plague is metal to metal connections, or any metal to metal contact that can vibrate against each other. A plastic ball link is all that is needed to isolate the two metal parts of the connection. One of the worst is letting the braided shielding on your ignition high tension lead rub on the muffler or any other part of the engine, if it's not solidly connected it will vibrate, that intermittent connection causes nasty RFI.

brianbrich1

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It is my first gas and I suppose I should be more patient with any fine tunning I have 7 ga through her now. It is a reliable runner!!

closetguy

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one other thing about the DLE tuning that i found,is the high speed needle has more effect on the low midrange than some of the other engines.try turning in your high in an 1/8 of a turn at a time to see if that helps.
Well i am off topic so i am out of hear.

brianbrich1

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Thanks

Rocketman_

Since I tightened the crankcase cover screws and reset the ignition timing to 28 deg (I think), I now have an engine that will draw fuel when choked and will start on one flip after the choke is opened. The speed is now 7080 rpm on a Xoar 19-3DA prop, up from 6660 rpm. The speed was 7200+ rpm with the factory setting of 34 deg but the engine had a vicious kickback when flipping the prop.

MT Engines' competition claims 7900 rpm with two different brands of 19x8 props for its 35 cc engine. Their engine may be well broken in but I can't imagine my engine gaining that many rev's with more running time. Does anyone challenge that number or is that level of performance entirely feasible?

jedijody

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I get 7800+ out of a Xoar 19-3DA, after they're brought up to snuff. 7200 with a laminated 19x8, about 200 more than I can get out of the other 30cc engine we sell with the exact same prop tuned the same way within minutes of each other.

clivemc

jody -
what is 7800+ ??
is that 7850 ? 7900 orover 8000??

to me it either does xxx rpm or it doesnt.

clivemc

rocketman

glad to see your now sorted. dont forget one brand 19x8 is very different from another brand 19x8 and rpm WILL vary considerably. I have even had 2 props of both the same brand and size bought at the same time differ by 400rpm.

jedijody

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Apparently you've only run one engine once.

If you run as many engines as I do you would know that every engine doesn't spin the same prop at exactly the same RPM, and that the same engine on different days and at different times of the day will turn different numbers based on atmospheric conditions. My statement that it will turn a prop XXXX number of RPMs is a minimum figure based on the performance of several engines run at different times and in different conditions at my location. The engines in my sample size have all turned those props mentioned at the numbers I posted minimum to 100 RPM more.

Rocketman_

Thanks for responding Jody.
After they're brought up to snuff? Please clarify.

jedijody

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Solidly mounted hub, correct ignition timing, fibrglass reeds, WT805 carb, CM-6 plug.

Rocketman_

Ah yes, the carb. I've been intending to ask about that since I saw the pictures of your linkages. I could see that your carb was different from mine. Does it have a larger throat size than the WT837 that comes with the engine?
Are fiberglass reeds less durable than metal reeds?
I'm currently using an NGK CM-6 plug and my timing is somewhere near 28 deg and I would consider replacing the carb and reeds if I thought it would make this Ultra RC Giles perform as well as my other Ultra RC Giles with its Perry pumped OS 1.60 glow.

I have one other question that I'm hesitant to ask because I'm not looking for a flood of opinions from everyone. If you don't mind saying, what oil are you using? You don't need to give an opinion, I can look up the specs on my own and compare it to other oils. Some oils ignite and contribute to the power output.

jedijody

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Yes, it's a bigger carb, your carb is a WT-759, the 837 is not the model number.

The fiber glass reeds flow more air and fuel, don't spit gas out the front of the carb, they are durable but most importantly if they do break the engine quits but nothing is hurt, I haven't been able to break one yet. The first MT35 I ran with the steel reeds broke one within the first 15 minutes, gouged up a piston and stuck the ring. It was fixable but it could have been much worse.

Your timing is likely to be slightly different every time you install the prop with the free play in the hub and key, takes a small amount of time but a key can easily be purchased at a hardware store for .50 cents and can be filed to fit very tight, then Loktite the hub and key in place, no more wandering timing.

I use Stihl HP Ultra at 32:1 from birth to death, well haven't exactly seen the death part yet on any engine I've run with that oil but eventually it could happen, hope I'm still around to see it.

PlaneKrazee

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Jody,

Does the Stihl Ultra HP allow the ring to seat?

brianbrich1

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I use same oil as Jody. No problems yet

Bpar4

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Brian, What mix ratio are you using for the Stihl oil? I am using Echo Power Blend at 50:1 (DL30). I think both of these say not to mix at less than 50:1.

brianbrich1

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I am 50:1

Bpar4

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What made me ask the question was Jody's post, that's all. Bob

jedijody

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Not quite true, both manufacturers recommend 50:1 for their equipment but thathas nothing to do with the oil itself being mixed at other ratios for other applications. Notice the first sentence in bold at the top on the back of the Stihl container.

Bpar4

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Ok. Thanks for the info. Bob