He says it gets used every day and often...don't know where the rust is coming from.

We do have humidity here...Flagstaff had 320 inches of snow last year....Shiny steel rusts...

Right off the bat, i noticed the compression was just as good as before. As i was chocking the carb and hand flipping the prop, i noticed it was smoother... Before when id flip by hand, the prop would not "bounce" back off the compression, now it does(less friction i guess)...I could idle the engine a bit lower that before

I think he have a winner here... Thank you for all the help guys [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Rocketman,

Is that a Supertiger C 35 crankcase? It sure looks familiar!

Like I can remember anything that was said back in 2002? LOL. I don't remember what engine the owner said that crankcase was from and I don't own any Supertiger engines so I'm at a loss to say. Sorry.

I worked in a Experimenatl test lab for a very big company. The prototype engines was run many hours & then tore down and checked for wear...and other data. To check a piston for wear it must be cleaned without removing any metal. We soaked the parts in acetone overnite & then used scotchbright pads to easy remove carbon & varnish. Then the task of a lot of precision measuring! Capt,n

Good point John. Many miss the fact that any cleaning that involves abrading the metal is nearly the same as wearing out the product. Gently remove unwanted items. Forceful activity like steel wool and wire brushes only reduces the useable life cycle and can reduce performace to a point lower than before cleaning when done incorrectly.

Looks like a good place to come for good cleaning advice!!!!!!!!</p>

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