microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

And I'm using 14mm plugs for my XYZ 50, so I don't need a resistor. One less part to worry about.

btw - I swapped in my old XYZ ignition and there was still flutter on the elevator, but only on one side. Going to do some experimentation to see if it's the rudder, y-reverser, receiver channel.

NJRCFLYER2

My Feedback: (42)

It's highly unlikely that the elevator oscillating when the engine running is from radio interference. Youare apparentlystanding right near it with the transmitter whenyou see this happen, so the signal to noise ratio is very good, and the likelyhood that ignition interference is messing with your elevator control is scant.

Also, ifit was radio interference, you would almost certainly see if hit the other channels as well. Rather than chase a ghost, try swapping out your elevator servo(s). Most likely it's just worn gears (if they are metal gears) or a worn pot. If so, expect the aileron servos to follow suite soon after. They're usually first to go, but it all depends on how things are set up, how much previous wear each servo had etc.

To make this more clear, a worn set of gears allows the control surface to bounce back and forth more, with greater inertia to overcome when the engine is running and making it rattle around. That can cause it to start oscillating as the servo tries to damp it out. A worn pot can cause the same thing to happen when excited by the engine vibration bouncing the control surface up & down.

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Just wondering if you might be using a opti type kill unit ? I had a similar problem on a plane where the control surfaces jumped around and found out by taking the kill unit out of the equation that it solved the problem. Seems like what happened is the current the electronic unit on the motor was making affected the receiver and it was traveling through the wires to the receiver causing the flutter. Just a thought.
DougB1

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

NJR - thanks, and you're right - I'm right next to the plane when checking this. I'll look at the individual servos tomorrow.

DougB1 - pretty sure I already removed the Opti-kill switch, but will check that, too.

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Yea make sure it is not plugged into the receiver and the wires are not even close to the receiver. I completely took mine out of the plane to be sure.
DougB1

captinjohn

HI RiverLarry...you old coot...should be back about April 6....sure is nice and warm here....kinda like it. I bet the Steelhead are running there! Best Regards Capt,n

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Yeah, heard that story many times, and the one about grinding off the side electrode and having spark jump over, yada-yada-yada.[&:]
NOT something a newbie need be overly concerned about! If it came originally installed, leave it. If you want to experiment that's up to you.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Yah know Jim - your mocking of people who have years more experience in this field than you do will eventually bite you in the a**.
John

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

There was NO mocking, but maybe the fanbois see it that way.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

njfcflyer - as part of my troubleshooting I re-installed the original blue-plastic cased EI that came with the engine. And the engine runs great. As for the suspected radio interference, the elevators still had that intermittant movement - so either it wasn't the Rcexl EI, or both EI's were leaking radio interference.

Then I swapped out both of my elevator servos - Hitec 5645MG's - with two Futaba 3305's. And the intermittant movement is completely gone. So it looks like, as you suggested, the Hitec's were worn - even though I could feel no gear slippage and they worked fine without the engine on (does that mean it's the pots? Anything I can do to fix these?). Thanks for your input on this.

acdii

L I B the only props the LHS has are Zinger and Top Flite. Looks like I have to order from Tower if I want a good wood prop. The Master Screw props are pretty good for my glow popper, but I need larger ones, and I think only Wood should be used for them.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Often the LHS started out with & still maintains a strong glow eng presence which those props are often better suited to.
If the LHS themselves & customers actually flew gassers, they'd be more inclined to have a wider range of props & various brands on hand.

They're only one source, there's many other places to get your props from.

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/a...rs.html?cat=71

http://www.vesspropellers.com/servle...ter/Categories

http://www.vesspropellers.com/servle...ter/Categories

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/radio-c...-spinners.html

acdii

The LHS by me cater to the electric crowd, so they have tons of electric props. Heck they dont even stock GP for the 4 strokes.

NJRCFLYER2

My Feedback: (42)

Glad that you found the problem. Iwould just send them back for service, with an explanation. Probably just needs new pots.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Hey guys, I was wondering if someone could tell me how much fuel the DLE20 uses per minute. I only flew my plane about 7 flights before I crashed it. I timed it a couple times, and if i remember right, I flew 8 minutes and i used about a third of a tank. I just cant remember for sure. And I flew it hot. 1/2 to full throttle most of the time.

Here is my reason for trying to figure this out. Im trying to put a smoke system on the plane and the largest tank I can add is an 8 ouncer. My plane came with a 420cc (14.2) fuel tank. Since the DLE20 is economical, Ive thought about using the 8oz tank for fuel and putting the smoke oil in the 14 oz tank. But Im not gonna do it if its going to reduce my flight times to less than 8 minutes without some to spare for safety.

Thanks for the help fellas,
Jeremy

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I'm flying a DLE 20 on a profile, using a 6oz. tank, and it's plenty. I'm generally down with a quarter tank or better left over - but I'm not running wide open all the time either. I would think 8oz would be plenty, but that's me...

captinjohn

Tie that bird down good and seehow longthat20cc engine will run . My guess around 12 min. Give it a go....then you will know. Capt,n

sandyjain

+1

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Yep, swap the tanks around. The 8 ounce should be fine for almost 10 minutes medium to wot.

But do some test runs and sneak up on it!

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Sweet. I want to try to slow the plane down and increase the throws because its such a speedster. The throws are fine when its movin along at 60+mph, but they are sluggish when slowed down. Its a GP Revolver 70". I dont really want to switch from low to high rates because im afraid that that will get me into trouble.

I do have low and high rates, but i just wanna fly my planes on one rate and be familiar with that.

Anyhow, thanks guys. If I run a 8oz fuel tank and a 14oz smoke tank, I could smoke out the whole town if I want to. I can crank that pump up to max and I dont think Id run outta oil...

RiverLarry

Captin John DLE 20 and 120 Space Walker should be done when you get home !!!!
the saito 150 that in it is a GLOW FUEL PIG !!!!

O Captin !!! just P/U a DLE 55 get back hear befor I cut my hand OFF R/L

captinjohn

I cannot wait to get back home. I have not seen any small gas engines down here in florida. The smallest I have seen is the 26cc Zenoah. Electric motors seem popular and lots of .40 Glow engines and small 4 stroke glow engines. R Welsh back home also has a DLE 20. Seems like the farther south you travel...you find people that catch onway slower. Did I say that !

acdii

Just drop 2 10oz tanks in, then you have enough of both!

unclecrash

I just about have my butcher bird ready to go. I am wondering if anyone knows the thread size of the dle 20 prop shaft. I have a couple pro spin aluminum spinners. But was also wondering if anyone knows where to get the brass bushings to fit the back plate to the dle 20 shaft. 1 I need tofind a spinner adapter for dle 20. 2 I need to find the brass bushing to fit the back plate to the engine. Any help would be apreciated. Thanks Dave

rhd-RCU

My Feedback: (36)

Prop shaft size : M8 x1.0 mm (w/two nuts)