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-   -   SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-engines-142/8862472-syssa-30cc-gas-made-usa.html)

AJsToyz 02-14-2010 02:19 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Rob,

Try the plug, if thats not it you might have a little crud in the carb. It sounds stupid dirt causing flooding but thats what happened to my 26cc.
there is a small screen that if crud gets in it or past it the needle will not seat and she won't start. I just cleaned the carb on one of my engines with out removing the carb, easy to do but don't loose the little spring under the needle arm.

Andy

MsgtRob 02-14-2010 02:58 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Thanks ,
Things I've done:
Removed both H and L needles to clean,
Different plugs-both new
different ignition
cleared/flowchecked fuel lines
Cleared both the internal walbro screen and the in line fuel filter in my system (also have crap trap on fuel pick up from the gas can,
reset H and L needels to 1.75 then 2.0 then 1.5 no worky

I suspect something in the carb or reed valve. I don't want to void any "warranty by pulling the carb completely unless Todd recommends it.

Interesting thing about spark plugs, they can't fire under high pressures. That's how a jet engine system works The spark plugs fire during engine start and keep firing untill burner pressure is great enough to supress them (engine idle and above) then if the engine flames out, the pilot doesn't have to try and put spark back on, because it's always on and will automatically start sparking when the burner pressure drops (below idle) and that's your Jet engine theory lesson for today LOL.

Thanks for all the inputs. Again, It's probably a very simple fix...just what? Previous flight was flawless, taxid to park, shut engine down with opto kill switch (aux on radio) let it sit while I flew my Extra (DLE 55) one flight. Refueled the Syssa (about 1/2 tank) and no worky.

I'll pull my tank later and recheck pickup line....but now I need to go fly and my Extra is waiting patiently in the truck..

Regards

Scooterpilot 02-14-2010 03:31 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
PM sent to Msgt Rob

w8ye 02-14-2010 03:46 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
If a reed valve is bad, you will have trouble getting the carb to pump fuel and then trouble getting the fuel into the engine

If you put fuel in the combustion chamber, the engine will just "pop" and never run

karolh 02-14-2010 05:15 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Have you tried by passing the Opti kill switch to check and see what happens as I have heard of folks having similar problems with such a switch in their system.

Karol

ol_seabee 02-14-2010 05:26 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
It's possible MsgtRob has tooo much prop on that motor for handflipping

Try an electric starter or a lighter prop

Also tighten prop bolt better??

Also you can squirt gas directly in cylinder through spark plug hole and it should start for a sec or two

probly nothing wrong with a brand new motor

captinjohn 02-14-2010 07:41 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
The pumping part of carb may be dry...it will need to be wet by purging. Priming with a shot of fuel in intake should alow the engine to start & run a few seconds. If it does start....but dies soon as it is out of fuel....wet the inside of pump on carb. Capt,n

AJsToyz 02-14-2010 07:51 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
I think Scooterpilot knows of where Rob flies, hopefully between them they get her running.

Andy

MsgtRob 02-14-2010 07:56 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
I can say that 18 X 8 is not too much prop to hand flip. I video taped the first run and subsequent flights...all hand flipped no problem. The carb has fuel inside, the chamber had to be drained-purged. I once had an engine that would start then die as soon as throttle was advanced. It would idle all day. Turns out, it the fuel line swelled at the crank case pressure bleed. This pulse was necessary to get the fuel pump working. Not the case on this engine. the fuel flows no problem.

I think I will try and elliminate the Opto switch. That's a GREAT suggestion and I appreciate it. It just so happens I ordered another from Todd with a carbon spinner.

My prop nut was also torqued sufficiently, have you never seen the result of a back fire on a 2 or 4 stroke? Thats the reason for the safety nut on all four strokes..Id say this engine is a prime candidate for a safety back up.

The engine ran GREAT during break in for 15 minutes and even better in the sky for three long flights. What ever happened, occurred while it was resting. Scooterpilot made a great suggestion to re check all J connections for pushed pins TYVM..I'll do that and go no opto switch first thing tomorrow.

It acts like the engine timing is off, I'll try squirting fuel in but I'm more inclined to believe electrical problem.

Thanks ALL...more to follow.

AJsToyz 02-14-2010 08:04 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Rob,

I'm not sure you would have to ask Todd but I think the magnet would be @ TDC. I don't think it could or should happen but maybe a sheared key ? You could take out the plug and see if the magnet is inline with the piston. I'm not sure what holds the alignment on the hub.

Just another thought.

Andy

w8ye 02-14-2010 08:07 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
If the ignition doesn't retard you could get this reaction

Your sequence and spacing of your hand flips could effect this?

cmoulder 02-14-2010 08:28 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

ORIGINAL: AJsToyz

I have flown a couple planes with the A123's in them and love them! This will be my first IBEC set up, I figured its a Syssa engine, so I'm going with the Syssa IBEC. I'll let you know more when I get a chance.

Andy
Syssa recommends 4.8-6V, max actual 7V input from freshly charged 5c Nicds. Ignition information for NiCad/NiMH, LiPo and A123 can be found here: http://www.syssaaircraft.com/pdf/Ign...tins_final.pdf

With the IBEC, no worries - it plugs into the Rx so that is your power source, and it regulates accordingly.

Also, it is not at all a power hog. Powering both servos and IBEC with a regulated 700 mAh 2S LiPo (reg to 6.2v into the Rx), I consistently recorded at most a 0.15V drop in battery voltage after 10-12 minute flights with a 2M pattern plane. Load-tested with a 500mAh load, the battery voltage held up fine.



AJsToyz 02-14-2010 08:40 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Let me correct that statement, the A123's were on the radio's , I have a couple 4.8V nicd packs I use on the ignitions. :D

Andy

Gungadin 02-14-2010 09:00 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Andy

I flew two airplanes all last summer both with 1100 mah A123 packs. One airplane was a pattern airplane and it was flown approx. 100 flights. I would use about 110 mah per flight. I would fly 4-5 flights and then charge. Only takes 8-9 min.. I love em. Will prob. go with two 1100 packs on my new SAP 180 pattern airplane. And the IBEC. Don't need any regulators. Less to go wrong. Simple is good.;)

cmoulder 02-14-2010 09:01 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
1 Attachment(s)

ORIGINAL: AJsToyz

Let me correct that statement, the A123's were on the radio's , I have a couple 4.8V nicd packs I use on the ignitions. :D

Andy
Hey, Andy, my edit got crossed up with your follow-up!:eek:

As per my edit, with the IBEC you don't need a separate ignition battery, nor an ignition switch. 'IBE' stands for Ignition Battery Eliminator, which is its primary use, with the optical kill cabability just icing on the cake.

On my Focus II, I actually have dual-redundant Rx power supply, using 2 Tech-aero switch/regulators, with 2 700-mAh LiPo's, plugged into separate slots in the Rx, and the IBEC plugged into another slot. The switches are "fail on," which means I could lose one battery and both switches and the plane would still fly and the ignition would work fine. The whole power system - switches, regulators, batteries, IBEC - weigh a total of 5.7 oz.

EDIT: Oops, as you can see in the photo, the batts are 800 mAh, not 700.

Gungadin 02-14-2010 09:02 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Bob

How many mah you figure you use each flight on your Focus II ?

PacificNWSkyPilot 02-14-2010 09:04 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
1 Attachment(s)
I ran an engine a few weeks ago, then I went to run it again and put some more fuel in, and nothing. Pulled it all apart, and then after eliminating everything else I went out and got a fresh gallon of gas from the gas station and mixed up some fresh mix..

Started right up when the fresh fuel hit the spark.

The other gas had been sitting there for months in the can. Smelled fine, just WOULD NOT FIRE. That's a pretty simple thing. Hope it helps!

I also like the idea of pulling the Opto-kill switch out of the system to eliminate that possibility. Good idea.

I got my double-jam nut from Tru-Turn for the older Saito 150s (8 X 1.25), and they're very short. I'm using it to hold my prop hub on my SAP180. Works great, lets me use my starter too.

PacificNWSkyPilot 02-14-2010 09:12 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 


ORIGINAL: w8ye

Sounds like a problem with the demand regulator in the carb? The needle and seat is not holding

Or are stuck closed? Not likely on a new engine, but....

cmoulder 02-14-2010 09:32 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
Dan, last time I flew, after the first engine start-up I spent a good while (maybe 6-7 minutes?) working with the throttle curve on the Tx, then re-fueled and got in three 9 to 11-minute flights.

I did not realize that my batteries/regs were operating in the "hot stand-by" mode, which means I was, in effect, using only 1 of the 700 mAh batteries. I charged it at home with a Cellpro 10S and it indicated 544 mAh in, therefore roughly 150 mAh per flight. Not bad at all for servos and ignition!

With the balanced reg set-up - drawing equally upon both 700-mAh batteries - it is not unreasonable to expect 5-6 flights before recharging, and that's being fairly conservative. Very handy capacity, because that's about as many flights as most of us would ever care to fly in one day.:eek:

EDIT: As above, the LiPo's are in fact 800 mAh, not 700, so easily 6 flights, with a lot of cushion.

MsgtRob 02-14-2010 09:45 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

ORIGINAL: AJsToyz

Rob,

I'm not sure you would have to ask Todd but I think the magnet would be @ TDC. I don't think it could or should happen but maybe a sheared key ? You could take out the plug and see if the magnet is inline with the piston. I'm not sure what holds the alignment on the hub.

Just another thought.

Andy

Yeah, that's one thing I suspected but quickly ruled it out as the magnet and key stock is still locked together, the Hall sensor still tight. Good cross check though, thanks!
I took the opto switch out, put syssa's on off switch and battery. I can here the plug fire again, but won't know until tomorrow if she'll run.

the ignition is retarded....lol

&lt;object width="400" height="300">&lt;param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" />&lt;param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" />&lt;param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9455936&amp;server=vimeo.com &amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portr ait=0&amp;color=&amp;fullscreen=1" />&lt;embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9455936&amp;server=vimeo.com &amp;show_title=1&amp;show_byline=1&amp;show_portr ait=0&amp;color=&amp;fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed&gt;</object&gt;

SAP180 first run from Rob M on Vimeo.</p>

MsgtRob 02-14-2010 10:29 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 


ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot

I ran an engine a few weeks ago, then I went to run it again and put some more fuel in, and nothing. Pulled it all apart, and then after eliminating everything else I went out and got a fresh gallon of gas from the gas station and mixed up some fresh mix..

Started right up when the fresh fuel hit the spark.

The other gas had been sitting there for months in the can. Smelled fine, just WOULD NOT FIRE. That's a pretty simple thing. Hope it helps!

I also like the idea of pulling the Opto-kill switch out of the system to eliminate that possibility. Good idea.

I got my double-jam nut from Tru-Turn for the older Saito 150s (8 X 1.25), and they're very short. I'm using it to hold my prop hub on my SAP180. Works great, lets me use my starter too.
Another good suggestion, but my gas was bought at Chevron on the way to the field. 89 Octane. I ordered Todds carbon spinner as he recommends it for the Sap. Tru turns are sweet! I've not used my starter since converting to all gas, I'd hate to go back.

w8ye 02-14-2010 11:00 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
I was looking at the video

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_...rver=vimeo.com

Sure sounds erratic


MsgtRob 02-14-2010 11:12 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 


I't ran pretty good considering Im at 2100 ft altitude and made no adjustments to the needles. After adjusting the H and L It started first or second flip for the next 4 starts. The videod shows the original run where the carb was priming.

18 X8 initial RPM was 6990 last flight of the day was 7300. It pulled the GS Big stick with no problems, moved fast enough for my taste in this type of airframe. If only I can get it running again, I expect 8000 once fully broken in.

mglavin 02-14-2010 11:18 PM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 
The two backfires suggest the problem is the ignition...... I have know experience with this beast, but most have a magnet in the hub. As mentioned the hub may know longer be properly indexed IMO. Have you've removed the hub from the crankshaft to verify all is well? And there is always the posibility that the Hall Effect device has failed too.

MsgtRob 02-15-2010 12:09 AM

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 


ORIGINAL: mglavin

The two backfires suggest the problem is the ignition...... I have know experience with this beast, but most have a magnet in the hub. As mentioned the hub may know longer be properly indexed IMO. Have you've removed the hub from the crankshaft to verify all is well? And there is always the posibility that the Hall Effect device has failed too.
I was just coming to post that I've finally exercised the demon! And I see your post. You are all over it. I had gone back to basics...pulled plug, insert q tip, find Top Dead Center. Well I'l be.....the magnet is a full 180 degrees out! I installed the protractor just for good measure but really, it's quite obviously out. I hooked up the spark plug (out of the engine) sure enough...it sparks at BOTTOM dead center every rotation.
I checked to see if the prop hub spun on the shaft at the field but It seemed solid. It's still solid. So I pressed on- Now with my plane half disassembled I find this. I need to pull the hub but I'm sure their is a broken/spun shaft key. It doesn't look like it but the spark doesn't lie. ***?



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