RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Rob,
Try the plug, if thats not it you might have a little crud in the carb. It sounds stupid dirt causing flooding but thats what happened to my 26cc. there is a small screen that if crud gets in it or past it the needle will not seat and she won't start. I just cleaned the carb on one of my engines with out removing the carb, easy to do but don't loose the little spring under the needle arm. Andy |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thanks ,
Things I've done: Removed both H and L needles to clean, Different plugs-both new different ignition cleared/flowchecked fuel lines Cleared both the internal walbro screen and the in line fuel filter in my system (also have crap trap on fuel pick up from the gas can, reset H and L needels to 1.75 then 2.0 then 1.5 no worky I suspect something in the carb or reed valve. I don't want to void any "warranty by pulling the carb completely unless Todd recommends it. Interesting thing about spark plugs, they can't fire under high pressures. That's how a jet engine system works The spark plugs fire during engine start and keep firing untill burner pressure is great enough to supress them (engine idle and above) then if the engine flames out, the pilot doesn't have to try and put spark back on, because it's always on and will automatically start sparking when the burner pressure drops (below idle) and that's your Jet engine theory lesson for today LOL. Thanks for all the inputs. Again, It's probably a very simple fix...just what? Previous flight was flawless, taxid to park, shut engine down with opto kill switch (aux on radio) let it sit while I flew my Extra (DLE 55) one flight. Refueled the Syssa (about 1/2 tank) and no worky. I'll pull my tank later and recheck pickup line....but now I need to go fly and my Extra is waiting patiently in the truck.. Regards |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
PM sent to Msgt Rob
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
If a reed valve is bad, you will have trouble getting the carb to pump fuel and then trouble getting the fuel into the engine
If you put fuel in the combustion chamber, the engine will just "pop" and never run |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Have you tried by passing the Opti kill switch to check and see what happens as I have heard of folks having similar problems with such a switch in their system.
Karol |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
It's possible MsgtRob has tooo much prop on that motor for handflipping
Try an electric starter or a lighter prop Also tighten prop bolt better?? Also you can squirt gas directly in cylinder through spark plug hole and it should start for a sec or two probly nothing wrong with a brand new motor |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The pumping part of carb may be dry...it will need to be wet by purging. Priming with a shot of fuel in intake should alow the engine to start & run a few seconds. If it does start....but dies soon as it is out of fuel....wet the inside of pump on carb. Capt,n
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I think Scooterpilot knows of where Rob flies, hopefully between them they get her running.
Andy |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I can say that 18 X 8 is not too much prop to hand flip. I video taped the first run and subsequent flights...all hand flipped no problem. The carb has fuel inside, the chamber had to be drained-purged. I once had an engine that would start then die as soon as throttle was advanced. It would idle all day. Turns out, it the fuel line swelled at the crank case pressure bleed. This pulse was necessary to get the fuel pump working. Not the case on this engine. the fuel flows no problem.
I think I will try and elliminate the Opto switch. That's a GREAT suggestion and I appreciate it. It just so happens I ordered another from Todd with a carbon spinner. My prop nut was also torqued sufficiently, have you never seen the result of a back fire on a 2 or 4 stroke? Thats the reason for the safety nut on all four strokes..Id say this engine is a prime candidate for a safety back up. The engine ran GREAT during break in for 15 minutes and even better in the sky for three long flights. What ever happened, occurred while it was resting. Scooterpilot made a great suggestion to re check all J connections for pushed pins TYVM..I'll do that and go no opto switch first thing tomorrow. It acts like the engine timing is off, I'll try squirting fuel in but I'm more inclined to believe electrical problem. Thanks ALL...more to follow. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Rob,
I'm not sure you would have to ask Todd but I think the magnet would be @ TDC. I don't think it could or should happen but maybe a sheared key ? You could take out the plug and see if the magnet is inline with the piston. I'm not sure what holds the alignment on the hub. Just another thought. Andy |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
If the ignition doesn't retard you could get this reaction
Your sequence and spacing of your hand flips could effect this? |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz I have flown a couple planes with the A123's in them and love them! This will be my first IBEC set up, I figured its a Syssa engine, so I'm going with the Syssa IBEC. I'll let you know more when I get a chance. Andy With the IBEC, no worries - it plugs into the Rx so that is your power source, and it regulates accordingly. Also, it is not at all a power hog. Powering both servos and IBEC with a regulated 700 mAh 2S LiPo (reg to 6.2v into the Rx), I consistently recorded at most a 0.15V drop in battery voltage after 10-12 minute flights with a 2M pattern plane. Load-tested with a 500mAh load, the battery voltage held up fine. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Let me correct that statement, the A123's were on the radio's , I have a couple 4.8V nicd packs I use on the ignitions. :D
Andy |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Andy
I flew two airplanes all last summer both with 1100 mah A123 packs. One airplane was a pattern airplane and it was flown approx. 100 flights. I would use about 110 mah per flight. I would fly 4-5 flights and then charge. Only takes 8-9 min.. I love em. Will prob. go with two 1100 packs on my new SAP 180 pattern airplane. And the IBEC. Don't need any regulators. Less to go wrong. Simple is good.;) |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
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ORIGINAL: AJsToyz Let me correct that statement, the A123's were on the radio's , I have a couple 4.8V nicd packs I use on the ignitions. :D Andy As per my edit, with the IBEC you don't need a separate ignition battery, nor an ignition switch. 'IBE' stands for Ignition Battery Eliminator, which is its primary use, with the optical kill cabability just icing on the cake. On my Focus II, I actually have dual-redundant Rx power supply, using 2 Tech-aero switch/regulators, with 2 700-mAh LiPo's, plugged into separate slots in the Rx, and the IBEC plugged into another slot. The switches are "fail on," which means I could lose one battery and both switches and the plane would still fly and the ignition would work fine. The whole power system - switches, regulators, batteries, IBEC - weigh a total of 5.7 oz. EDIT: Oops, as you can see in the photo, the batts are 800 mAh, not 700. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Bob
How many mah you figure you use each flight on your Focus II ? |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
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I ran an engine a few weeks ago, then I went to run it again and put some more fuel in, and nothing. Pulled it all apart, and then after eliminating everything else I went out and got a fresh gallon of gas from the gas station and mixed up some fresh mix..
Started right up when the fresh fuel hit the spark. The other gas had been sitting there for months in the can. Smelled fine, just WOULD NOT FIRE. That's a pretty simple thing. Hope it helps! I also like the idea of pulling the Opto-kill switch out of the system to eliminate that possibility. Good idea. I got my double-jam nut from Tru-Turn for the older Saito 150s (8 X 1.25), and they're very short. I'm using it to hold my prop hub on my SAP180. Works great, lets me use my starter too. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: w8ye Sounds like a problem with the demand regulator in the carb? The needle and seat is not holding |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Dan, last time I flew, after the first engine start-up I spent a good while (maybe 6-7 minutes?) working with the throttle curve on the Tx, then re-fueled and got in three 9 to 11-minute flights.
I did not realize that my batteries/regs were operating in the "hot stand-by" mode, which means I was, in effect, using only 1 of the 700 mAh batteries. I charged it at home with a Cellpro 10S and it indicated 544 mAh in, therefore roughly 150 mAh per flight. Not bad at all for servos and ignition! With the balanced reg set-up - drawing equally upon both 700-mAh batteries - it is not unreasonable to expect 5-6 flights before recharging, and that's being fairly conservative. Very handy capacity, because that's about as many flights as most of us would ever care to fly in one day.:eek: EDIT: As above, the LiPo's are in fact 800 mAh, not 700, so easily 6 flights, with a lot of cushion. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: AJsToyz Rob, I'm not sure you would have to ask Todd but I think the magnet would be @ TDC. I don't think it could or should happen but maybe a sheared key ? You could take out the plug and see if the magnet is inline with the piston. I'm not sure what holds the alignment on the hub. Just another thought. Andy Yeah, that's one thing I suspected but quickly ruled it out as the magnet and key stock is still locked together, the Hall sensor still tight. Good cross check though, thanks! I took the opto switch out, put syssa's on off switch and battery. I can here the plug fire again, but won't know until tomorrow if she'll run. the ignition is retarded....lol <object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9455936&server=vimeo.com &show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portr ait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9455936&server=vimeo.com &show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portr ait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object> SAP180 first run from Rob M on Vimeo.</p> |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot I ran an engine a few weeks ago, then I went to run it again and put some more fuel in, and nothing. Pulled it all apart, and then after eliminating everything else I went out and got a fresh gallon of gas from the gas station and mixed up some fresh mix.. Started right up when the fresh fuel hit the spark. The other gas had been sitting there for months in the can. Smelled fine, just WOULD NOT FIRE. That's a pretty simple thing. Hope it helps! I also like the idea of pulling the Opto-kill switch out of the system to eliminate that possibility. Good idea. I got my double-jam nut from Tru-Turn for the older Saito 150s (8 X 1.25), and they're very short. I'm using it to hold my prop hub on my SAP180. Works great, lets me use my starter too. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I was looking at the video
http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_...rver=vimeo.com Sure sounds erratic |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I't ran pretty good considering Im at 2100 ft altitude and made no adjustments to the needles. After adjusting the H and L It started first or second flip for the next 4 starts. The videod shows the original run where the carb was priming. 18 X8 initial RPM was 6990 last flight of the day was 7300. It pulled the GS Big stick with no problems, moved fast enough for my taste in this type of airframe. If only I can get it running again, I expect 8000 once fully broken in. |
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The two backfires suggest the problem is the ignition...... I have know experience with this beast, but most have a magnet in the hub. As mentioned the hub may know longer be properly indexed IMO. Have you've removed the hub from the crankshaft to verify all is well? And there is always the posibility that the Hall Effect device has failed too.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: mglavin The two backfires suggest the problem is the ignition...... I have know experience with this beast, but most have a magnet in the hub. As mentioned the hub may know longer be properly indexed IMO. Have you've removed the hub from the crankshaft to verify all is well? And there is always the posibility that the Hall Effect device has failed too. I checked to see if the prop hub spun on the shaft at the field but It seemed solid. It's still solid. So I pressed on- Now with my plane half disassembled I find this. I need to pull the hub but I'm sure their is a broken/spun shaft key. It doesn't look like it but the spark doesn't lie. ***? |
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