I try to install a pull-pull on a 31% AW edge540 arf.
measured everything, and the cables cross the fuse side lines right in fron of the hor.stab.
the thing is, there is nothing there at the cable exit point but the covers, no balsa no nothing.

can i just make a small hole in the cover, add a plastic "pushrod exit" things and glue it to the cover as an exit
or do I have to open the covers and install a good balsa block for a guide to go through? really don't want to cut the covers...

does that cable exit location makes sence?

The cables don't need a guide where they exit the fuse unless there is a possibility of them rubbing on a former as they move. Your servo arm should be the same width as the control horn. The cables should exit the fuse at a point where the width matches the servo arm/CH width. The exit slots should be long enough as to not interfere with the cables at full rudder deflection. This would be the optimum set up which may not always be possible.

Here'e a little tip also.If you use a soldering iron to poke the holes in the covering,it wont't rip or tear.
Mike

what?

are you guys serious? never ever had a pull-pull cable exitin a fuse w/o a proper exit.
are you saying I can just poke a hole in the cover and let it out? won't the cable eventually rip the cover around it?

now I'm confused. please send me some pics of this.
gabi

No, you can't simply poke a hole. You need to make the slots long enough so the cables don't touch the covering at full deflection. In a perfect pull-pull set up, the cables should never touch or rub anything, including the fuse exits.

Stick jammer is exactly right.I stated the "poke a hole" just as an example.You can use the iron to make the slot,it makes a very nice non jagged slot.It is however sometimes hard to get the setup exactly right.But when it's perfect,nothing touches and there is no slack on either cable at full deflectino.
Mike

Mazlat, I have used the red Sullivan outer sheath to exit the covering and a piece of the inner yellow rod as a sliding bearing in the red outer sheath. Use Kevlar pull-pull cable and tack it to the yellow inner tubing. This way there will be a near frictionless sliding fit that will never cut the covering and looks good.

Ken

Ken, how did you hold that outer sleeve (red) in place, did you just glue it to the covering?
the main issue with my problem is that I have nothing underneath the covering to hold the guides to!
I thought of getting a regular pushrod exit to cover and close the hatch I made in the cover.
the cable will obviously won't touch anything. my fear if of the covering ripping with time.
from what yo're saying this is not a problem, or did I missunderstand?
thanks for the patience and replies on that rather simple issue,
gabi

Gabi, I've never had a plane with absolutely no structure in the back end that would accept a brace and glue. Both sleeves can be extended all the way to the back of the servo and anchored there with braces. If you don't want to cut a hole in the covering then melt a hole as indicated above and let the red sleeve extend about 1/8" outside the covering and glue it there with a little epoxy or CA. Or, use one of the plastic pushrod exits with a hole to accept the red sleeve. However long you make the sleeve, make the inner tube a little bit longer and anchor the Kevlar at one end of the inner tube.

I know that this is not the case with your plane but this pull-pull method works very well with planes where the control surface is not directly in line with the servo.

Ken