coche

My Feedback: (4)

I have used the crank pressuere on bigger engines, I havent tried on a DA-50, this is the frist time a plane this size can accualy use smoke and still fly great!
this is all you need to make the smoke work:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZ674&P=7

I am not using this sistem any more, as smoke rate changes a lot with throtle, I am using the smoke pump by 3W now on my 35% Extra, very simple, it runs on your RX battery! you dont have to add another battery for smoke!

http://www.cactusaviation.com/Produc...oke/smoke.html

BBriBro

My Feedback: (2)

I've tried that system too, It looks identical to the one Du-bro used to make, it just pinches the line, which takes a bit of force from the servo, it's .......well............cheap. The Bennett valve is very nice, [link=http://www.bennettbuilt.com/smoke.htm]B&B smoke valve[/link] I never did have one leak, all machined aluminum, double o-rings, But I think all these mechanical systems are kinda obsolete with the newer electric pumps and lightweight lithium batteries.

SPACE SCOOTER

Bodyworks, Thanks for the info on the Quite Pipe. I'm going ahead with my original plan, a KS1060 tuned pipe..Thanks again, Scooter

flyingcrazy

My Feedback: (28)

Here is how I did my choke I made a bracket out of 1/16 fiberglass sheet used carbon push rod and JB WELDED a short piece of 2-56 all thread and one of the cowl gromets and a 2-56 ball link hooked up to the choke arm it works great .

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Flying Crazy,

Brilliant work. I'm gonna have to borrow that piece of ingenuity.

-J. David

jeang

Flying Crazy,I did it exactly like you exept I use aluminium for the little bracket.very simple and works great.


jeang

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

David, there is a simular choke setup earlier in this thread. It uses one of the CF servo arms for a braket (if you didn't use them) it pulls straight instead of at an angle. I think it's a touch cleaner and you don't have that long rod hanging out there subject to vibration

John

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Cool... I musta missed that... this thread only grew 100 pages or so whilst I was in the hospital...

PM the pic of it if you still have it...

My choke runs inside the plane and the hatch is left off till it pops then it's put on... may switch it around as sometimes I go an hour before flying again and I have to rechoke...

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

David it was probably posted while you were in the Hosp. I'll try to dig it up for you

John

flyingcrazy

My Feedback: (28)

There is always someone with a better mouse trap . The angle is needed so it want be behind the spinner I used a groment and a carbon push rod to keep vibration down .

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Drew and I posted the Choke thing way back when we built his.

One single peice of heavy NyRod that extends forward to just behind the spinner.
Its held in place by a tie wrap that attaches to the nyrod and the red ignition wire. Simple.

jeang

Thats were I got the idea,I stoll it from you and Drew,but installed a small plate to hold the nyrod.

jeang

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

I have finally got a motor and I have a few questions.....

1. flip the carb but not the reed block.... so that the fuel line will wrap from top to bottom(between the carb and reed block)?
2. Upon reinstalling the 2 bolts that hold the carb/reed to the motor use loctite?
3. Use the spring on the throttle lever or disconnect?

Thats probably not all my questions but until I hit "submit the post" thats all I can think of......

Thanks, Joel

coche

My Feedback: (4)

Joel:

1.- yes
2.- yes
3.- disconect the throtle spring

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

3. Disconnect from the throttle arm, but don't "remove" entirely from the armature

turbo4

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the answers.....I did understand to leave the spring on the arm. More questions:

1. Tygon, 1/8" ID or 3/32? I noticed the piece that came on the motor(between the carb and reed) was 3/32".

2. For those that did a firewall reinforcement, did you use longer bolts than 1/4 20 x 3/4 for firewall to standoff? I opted to add the 1/8" ply doubler. looks like that plus washers is gonna leave very little threads usable. It also appeared that just below the tri-stock on the front bottom firewall there was a hairline fracture in the firewall. Not sure, but since it was an area of concern I went ahead and beefed it up.

3. Any need to add large washers between the standoffs and firewall on the front side?

Thanks Again, Joel

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

1. I used 1/8 and soldered on some Dubro 1/8 fuel barbs on my tank lines for a snug fit. The barbs are necessary if you use the 1/8. I don.t see why you wouldn't be able to use 3/32 uneventfully, though, as the larger nitro engines burn twice as much fuel and get away with it. However, most of them run some sort of positive pressure in the tank, whereas this is strictly vented...go with the 1/8.
2and3. Haven't done the firewall mod - mine is still fine. I simply soaked the ply with thin CA around the holes to stiffen the wood up, which worked really well, and then, instead of cranking down the bolts unnecessarily, I snugged them up and safetywired them - see pic below. If you are still doing it the other way, then yes, washers on the screw and standoff side is a good idea.

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

I guess you do not like my answers. Jeff

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Somebody was asking earlier about using a 5945MG hitec on the rudder. I'm using one while I'm waiting for a 5955 Hitec. (3 months now) Anyway, the 5945 does not have enough power to properly maintain this aircraft. It's probably OK for family flying, but thats about it.

John

cadconversions

My Feedback: (21)

You must mean the 5945MG doesn't have enough power. If you mean the 5955TG than we are all in trouble.

coche

My Feedback: (4)

John, 5955 does not have enough power? I think you wanted to say that the 5945! why do you think that the 5945 wont maintain this aicraft? I have flown this plane with 5945 with out any problems! knife edge its perfect, knife edge loops are also awsome!

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

jose, yes I ment the 5945 does not have enough power on my rudder. I fixed the typo. On my aircraft I can't get full deflection if I have any significant speed

John

coche

My Feedback: (4)

well, might be some current loss, or something like that, what kind of regulators do you have? I am using 16awg wire from the battery to the regulator and 2 22awg wires from regulator to reciver!
I am sure my ruder servo its working perfect as I had to dial more exponential on my ruder as I was geting in to a hover when I was trying to knife edge flight! I really dont fly much with speed as I like to fly my plane 3D almost all the time, but I do make some manuvers with some kind of speed and using the ruder I do get full deflection..

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

SmartFly Reg. 4800 mah Fromeco. All heavy stuff. If you had problems going into a hover from a knife edge, then your talking about flying awful slow. One thing I just thought of. I never did any adjustments to my SmartFly regulator. Possibly it doesn't come set at 6 volts from the factory???

John

coche

My Feedback: (4)

if you have the adjustable regulators from smart-fly I think they are set for lower voltage... contact robert ritchey from smart-fly and ask him, my regulators are set for 6 volts...

I do like to fly really hi alpha knife edge, but I was having that problem eaven with more speed, I was having that problem at the entry of the knife edge.. but exponential fixed that problem!!