Columbo

My Feedback: (9)

I am using JR 8611a servos with 1.5 inch arms. I get about 45 degrees up which is fine, but down is not enough due to the ball link hitting the slot. I will cut out some more of the
slot and see what happens. Thanks for the response.

Greg

flygilmore

Mine makes an "X" when you look at the front of the prop. I am using the SWB 1.5" arms and getting around 45* and from the flight testing yesterday, that will be all I would need. As of now, transition to stalled flight happens effortless without gaining altitude and waterfalls are on the wing tube.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

My engine is mounted. I'll have my cowling mounted this weekend. I still have to glue in the baffel and glass it. I'll post pic's when it's all together. It will NOT be done this weekend. [>:]

ArcherIIDriver

What's this about glassing the baffel?

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Glassing the baffel is recommended because they can crack. It ads no weight and strengthens the baffel. Just one layer of glass cloth and thinned 30 min epoxy and you're done.

Here are some pic's of what mine looks like. I still have to glue the baffle on, glass it, and cut the cowling muffler exit tube and spark plug holes. I just put it all together quick to see what it would look like.

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

i went for the 10 oclock area, that way your hand goes down and away as you start, and the plane doenst jump or move around as much as when i was trying the 2 oclock method, but to each is own

ArcherIIDriver

Looks great! You are ahead of me, for sure. I just finished the pull-pull and made up some custom extensions for the elevator servos (using 3-pin deans on the stab side). My engine is mounted, but not the cowl/baffle/etc.

So, you glass the entire backside of the baffle? or just where it meets the cowl?

Someone needs to offer a custom fit carbon fiber baffle for this bird...that would be SWEET. I'd spend a few pennies on that. [sm=shades_smile.gif]

ArcherIIDriver

Hey, Joe...where did you get your spinner bolt? I ordered a 5mm x 100 from Microfasteners but it wasn't threaded far enough and the next smaller size was 5mm x 75 which is too short. I know TBM sells a bolt for their CF spinners, but it is a pan head (flat blade screw driver) chrome job...just doesn't look right on the fancy black spinner.

ArcherIIDriver

Thanks for the responses on prop drilling. I'm leaning towards 10 o'clock. And...I may be a little slow but...I just realized that drilling for 10 o'clock would be the same as drilling for 2 o'clock...just unbolt the prop, rotate it 90* and re-bolt [sm=bananahead.gif]

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Arch, you're not glassing where it meets the cowling, that's plenty strong there.....you are only doubling that entire thin plastic area with glass. The thin plastic can crack on the edges where you cut it out. It has no support to hold it near the prop hub or the engine cylinder head. It probably cracks from the air speed and prop wash beating on it.

I got the bolt from Azure hobbies, it came with the spinner. It's an 80mm I think. I actually feel it's a little short as it only threads in 4-5mm but they swear nobody has ever had a problem (all vendors say that though). They say all you need is a few threads to go in. Sounds crazy. You can order any length you want from Fastenel. Actually not any length, but a 90mm or 100mm. Check it online to see.

90mm:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...l.ex?sku=39559

100mm:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...l.ex?sku=39560

You probably need a 90mm...and so do I. I might just order one as I don't feel right with only 4mm of thread.

PS: I just looked at the price of the 90mm. To get plain you have to buy 100 of them for $88. For zinc you can buy one for 88 cents. I want plain so it's black.

These guys have qty 1 but they are $1.50.
http://www.jrhobbyhardware.com/shop/...3b7518eacb4c20

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Try mc masters carr, I think the prices are much better.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

They have min quantities.

ArcherIIDriver

Thanks for the info. I ordered a set of 90mm ones from JR hobby hardware (never heard of them before now). Now, if I could just find some time to work on the Yak...

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

just thought i let you guy's know about Yak no. 2.had to use a 4" spinner on this one to get the CG 7-1/4.[:@]
BME 58 stock pitts
a123 & 2500 AA 5 cell on engine box
mejzlik 23-8
best news is 16 lbs. 10 ozs.

flygilmore

Here is a cute pic of my pride and joy (13 month old) helping out with the Yak. This pic was taken just as he was doing a little dance to the rythm of his hands on my canopy[sm=47_47.gif], oh, what good times!!

show871

Hey, I had just a few questions on this plane

Do you have long term problems with the black covering in the sun.......after the initial few bubbles are taken care of
Does the new kits come with tinted canopies?
Is the SD 33% gear the correct CF gear to use....and how much weight do you save?
Has anyone used the MT 57 on this plane?

Hey thanks!

871

ArcherIIDriver

Canopies are tinted. As for the rest, someone else will have to chime in.

ArcherIIDriver

BTW - if anyone orders the spinner bolt(s) from JR Hobby Hardware, be sure to order @ least 3 pakages or send an extra $1 for postage. They won't send just 1 pkg for the $0.50 shipping that is calculated by the website.

Gatorb8

I'm an idiot! The T nutes are in the Canopy!
Hopefully I deleted the post before anyone read it!!!!!!!!

may start up and maiden today!
Gator

ArcherIIDriver

Mine are installed in the tabs on the canopy itself. If yours aren't, I have the best luck w/ metric stuff @ Ace hardware. Or if you have to install the blind nuts yourself, you could just use a 4-40 or 6-32.

ArcherIIDriver

Too late, bait...

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

the black does wrinkle more than the yellow here in az, i wouldnt call it a "problem" though...
the 33%sd is the gear to use if you want the cf, i heard its half the weight of the stock ef gear, for some reason 7oz's sticks in my head and the stock stuff was 15oz's, i dont remember if thats accurate but it seems to be sticking in my head for some reason, but im getting older so i could be way off

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

The cowling cut outs are done. The muffler was tricky because the cut out had to be long to get the cowling on. It was that cut the muffler tube short. Then more oil gets on the plane. The manual choke was easier than I thought. I showed the glassed louver. The black is the sharpie ink bleading. Cutting glass cloth is a beeotch.

AirWizard

My Feedback: (3)

JoeAirport,

I opened the box on the bottom of the cowl to help cool and improve the air flow.

Show871

My black wrinkles a little in the summer heat,,,,but no problem. I considered a CF gear but am glade I didn't.....I had it flame out and all it did was spread the landing gear, I think it would have caused a lot of damage if it would have been CF.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

MT 57 being installed right now on mine, I'll be running a 24A Xoar on a K&S 1060 tuned pipe!

I had to order the new mounting plate Tomy is making due to the firewall being cut [:@]
Looks like I also have to order a new set of stand offs, the space between the prop and the cowl is too large. Actually, the space is too large TO ME, even set at 6.7 inches as per the book!


Want a picture?