Scott H.

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry to hear that Robert.
Is it too far gone to rebuild?
I saw one at Sheldon's Hobbies in San Jose Ca.

http://www.sheldonshobbies.com/

But it was $389.00 They may be willing to deal. I think it has been there a while. Yes this is a great plane. I really enjoy flying mine. Hope you find another one.

Scott

Jeff396

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Pull Pull question....

I've just about got this plane completed and am currently waiting on the batteries and switches to arrive. I have a question about the pull pull installation. No matter if I cross the wires or not they are both rubbing on the hole where they exit the fuselage. It isn't as bad if I don't cross the cables. Is this okay or do I need to relocate the holes? I've read this thread many times but don't recall if this issue ever came up.

Jeff

Robert Cavazos

My Feedback: (50)

Hi Jeff
My first one rubbed a little too. I crossed the wires and just smoothed out the exit. My next one I made sure it did not rub by elongating the holes. It was a simple fix.
Robert

Sailor

My Feedback: (1)

Jeff, I ran into the same problems, so I expoxied a pair of Ernst pushrod exits in and then fed the pull-pull wires through. I suppose in a thousand flights or so the friction will do the plane in.



You can find these at Tower Hobbies, and you could probably use another manufacturer's pushrod exit.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

for those still interested here the link again to JR models as a reminder.


http://www.jr-models.cz/english/letadla/jr27.html



Im pretty sure Extreme R/C guys are carrying the model as I have seen their banner ad for the 73" version. Hopefully they will carry the large one as well!

storklappe

I have a BME 50 on my Cap and using a Hangar 9 mount, I did not have to cut a hole in the cowl or angle the engine to get it to fit. The plane is incredible with the BME. The engine turns 7000 RPM at sea level, which makes it an anti-gravity device for this plane.

Jeff396

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Sailor,

Those look like the ticket....thanks! Maybe my LHS will have something similar.

Jeff

Jeff396

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Robert,

I don't think I have quite the same issue though I don't know why. After my wires get to the rear end of the oval hole they actually turn about 5 or 10 degrees after they enter the body (just a guestimate) and thats without crossing the wires. When the wires are crossed and they come from the opposite side of the front of plane the angle becomes worse. If I were to try to make the wires not touch at all I would have to move the hole rearward at least and inch or two. The only thing that I can think of that would lessen the problem is to move the connection to the swivel link out on each side. Currently it is set where they told me to and their total width matches the width of the servo arm I am using which is the goal as I understand it.

Jeff

CDignition

My Feedback: (9)

Hi all..I have a chance to trade a warbird for this plane, with OS 160 for power..Im thinking this is under powered...any input on this??..I dont want to repower it , ill just pass on the deal..

Sailor

My Feedback: (1)

CDIgnition,

Are you sure this is the 80" CAP and not hte 72" one? A 1.6 is not going to have enough grunt power to accomplish anything with this plane. If you go glow, you need a Moki 2.10 on it or go gas. With a .50 size motor, this thing, as stated in previous posts, is an anti-grav device. ZDZ, BME, DA, Taurus, Brisson. Any of these will work fine. I fly mine with a BME .50 and I am an intermediate to advanced pilot. I have let other, more experienced pilots fly it and they can't believe how fun it is. I'll get to their flying skill this year, hehe.

CDignition

My Feedback: (9)

Yeah, thats what he told me 80" plane...I was also thinking it was under powered...Ill pass and keep looking,lol..

CDignition

My Feedback: (9)

Would I be able to sell the OS 160 and buy the .50 size gas burner?? I have no experience with the gas motors....what is cost on one of these motors??

Sailor

My Feedback: (1)

If you go with one of the .50's they start at about $450 and work their way up. You will also need a muffler which does not usually come with the engine.

An alternative is to put another glow engine on it, perhaps a Moki 2.10. These run about $300, and these do not come with a muffler, either.

Gas is cheaper to run than glow.

Bass1

Is everybody still happy with this plane? Anybody have any firewall stregnth issues etc.? I'm starting on mine this weekend. Thanks

CGAV8R

My Feedback: (2)

I still love mine. Brison 52 on it. The plane is rock solid in all 3D manuvers. Best flying scale plane I have.

Sailor

My Feedback: (1)

I had to notch my firewall so that my inverted pitts muffler would fit on my BME 50. I made sure to use plenty of angle stock, plenty of epoxy, then pinned it, like the original firewall. I also screwed in a some aluminum angle iron on both sides of the firewall just in case. Haven't had any problems, and the more I fly this plane the more I like it.

A friendly suggestion, Bass1, is to glue a good plywood plate for whatever tailgear you plan to use inside the plane BEFORE you put the tail assembly in. You could go ahead and install blind nuts very easily. Putting the tail on, then dong this is VERY DIFFICULT.

fishgod

My Feedback: (13)

I posted this on the engine forum but I should have posted it here.

Well my H9 80" cap has sat in the rafters of the garage since September. I was off yesterday and it warmed up to the low 40's and the field was clear of snow. Charged the plane up and went out to the field. Fueled it, flipped the prop until fuel reached it. Choke on, ignition on, and third flip she fired. Choke off, ignition on, 3rd flip and she was idling. I have 3.5 gal. of gas at 40:1 petrolum run through it and another 1.5 gallons to go to finish break in. This motor runs like a charm, unlimited vertical. I got 4 flights in. Wow it was nice being back on a fuel burning model. Indoor electrics are nice but they sure don't beat the gassers

Bass1

No bad yet, that's good!

Columbo

My Feedback: (9)

I agree with that. I have a 31% AW edge and I like the cap better for 3D. It was the plane that got me DOD.
As stable in harrier as in normal flight. No wing rock! None! Mine crashed after my moki quit in a hover. Got
the cline now so shouldn't have that problem. I managed to pick up another one at our LHS. It was the only
one left. Too bad they discontinued these. Maybe they will introduce an even better version with two piece wing
and another color scheme.

Greg

Scott H.

My Feedback: (1)

Haven't flown mine in a while either. I've got a little more than 2 gallons through it. No bad, all good. Because it is so easy to fly, it will be first one up this spring when I get back to the flying site. Besides I'm looking forward to firing up the smoke system. I might try to get some IMAC/SCAT practice in just in case I can actually make a contest.

Happy flying all,

Scott

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

For those of you who powered with a DA-50, what length standoffs did you use?

gamerboy08046

My Feedback: (10)

I got the cheap version and had an aileron come off costing me the airplane on the 6th flight. Sent back to horizion no word which is what I figured. I had a DA 50 with a 23x10 Bambula. Hitec 5645 on elevator a Futaba 9305 on rudder and 2 JR 8411 on ailerons. The airplane was 18 pounds but the DA didnt know it was back there.

Bass1

Gamerboy, How did the aileron come off? Was it those cheapo hinges? I'm just about finished with mine and didn't like hearing that.

Mach1Latus

My Feedback: (3)

Gamerboy

what do you mean by the cheap one?

Stephen

gamerboy08046

My Feedback: (10)

I got the last run from Cheif when they had them for 299. I was flying and I came out of a 2 turn spin and before I hit the pin for full throttle the cheapo hinges pulled straight out of my wing. It even pulled some of the trailing edge with it. So be very careful.