T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Thats not a Pig at all... Thats about the average weight of one of these, Yaks or primarily the heaviest of the three, extra, edge, yak... You'll love the plane with that 62cc engine, slap a 24x8 prop on there and fly it and you can tell the difference big time! My yak was about the same weight as this one and it flew great, with the RCGF 65cc engine it was a great big foamy, and the 62cc is a new design and it puts out more power.

T.J.

flaminheli

This plane came with a 27oz tank. Is everyone using a tank about that large? If not I will probably install a smaller on to save a little flying weight.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

I used a 16oz with my G62 and then switched to a 24. Wasn't enough for me.

cjcyclesrc

My Feedback: (10)

24oz works great with a Brillelli 60 @ about 18 min of flight time.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Contraversial subject on FM or PCM. I've used FM in all my gassers with no problems. Just switched one of them over to 2.4 last year. The rest will be changed this spring. Do some shopping around for planes and engines. You might save enough to get yourself into a 2.4 rig. Then you won't have any worries about someone shooting you down.

flaminheli

I have always used 30 minute epoxy to hinge a surface. After reading on RCU about you guys using Gorilla glue I thought I would give it a try. I will never use epoxy again for hinges. This has got to be the easiest way to do it that I have ever seen. Now I dont hate hinging so much. Over 20 years in the hobby and learn something new everyday.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

I use Gorrila too. Works great for Robarts.

coronabob

My Feedback: (10)

For me Pacer Hinge Glue is even easier than, and as strong as Gorilla. Cleans up with water and does not ooze out.

propchief

My Feedback: (65)

I use Gorrilla Glue without wetting the surfaces and it doesn't foam so much. I tried Pacer Hinge Glue but it was too watery for my taste ... maybe I got a bad bottle?

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

If you use gorilla glue, etc. put some low tack tape down around the hole on both sides of the surface. That way, when it oozes out you can pull off the tape and it will not stick to your covering. You can also vasiline the surfaces and it will not stick either.

flaminheli

My wife let me knock off early from tiling the bathroom so I got the engine mounted. Slowly but surely.

flaminheli

I have a question for all of those that have been building these gassers for awhile. The firewall is only 3/8" ply. It is epoxied good, has triangle stock on the backside and is pinned. I went over all the joints with 30 minute epoxy just as insurance. My question is will this engine box hold up to this 62cc engine or do I need to reinforce it. Should I sandwich a piece of 1/4" light ply to the 3/8" with 30 minute epoxy and apply lightweight glass cloth to the entire box or one of the other or any other ideas. By the way, the engine weighs about 60ozs with the muffler and puts out 30+ pounds of thrust.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

It will hold just fine... pinned, stock, and extra epoxy, you should be good to go! Your gonna love the engine! other than your little muffler problem.

flaminheli

Thanks T3, I was just a little concerned about is onlt being 3/8". It wouldn't be cool coming off in flight

theradioflyer

Any updates on how it's going FH?

Blessings,

Jay

flaminheli

I have the fueltank mounted waiting on all of my wires, switches all Hevy Duty 22awg, fuel line, filters and other odds and ends to arrive from Tower probably mid next week. The servos "HD9150s from HC" should be here about Tuesday. I tried to order the servos from TBM but there is something wrong with their Paypal. I have the cowl cut out for the plug and top of the head which only needed about 1/8" to clear, as bad as I hated to trim the cowl for the head because it only needed 1/8". It does not even stick out the bottom of the cowl. I am still deciding on the exhaust before I cut that hole. I got the canopy mounted to the hatch with glue and the supplied 16 screws. It is coming together, slowly but surely.

flaminheli

A couple of pics.

Bass1

Wow, Mine came with the canopy already glued/attached to the frame with no screws at all. Wonder why the change?

flaminheli

Good question. The screws are more less for looks. I used 30 minute epoxy smeared on thin to glue the canopy to the hatch and masking tape to hold it in place. I liked doing it myself because it gave me a chance to go over all the glue joints of the hatch and also sand all of that ugly gray primer off and give it a nice shiny coat of gloss red. Where is the C.G. at "or was" on yours? I also see that you used the wheel pants. I am undecided on them. Dop you have a pic of the entire plane so I can get a better view of it with the pants on

flaminheli

A pic of most of the hardware. After hearing about tj's pullpull issue I might use some of the links from a Dubro pullpull kit I have hanging on the peg board still in the package.

Bass1

The wheel pants were a recent addition. I flew it for several years without them and just for a change of pace installed them this past fall. I didn't really notice any change in the way it flies with the extra 3 and 1/2 ozs of added weight. I don't have any full photos of the airplane with the pants on. It did move the CG about 1/16 of an inch from exactly 6 inches from root to 5 and 15/16ths from root and that's where it is now. Some guys were/are happy with 6 and 1/2" from root which places it slightly aft of the wing tube. Did you download the "Pacific Planes" (50cc Yak)manual form their website. That is a much better and understandable manual. I know you've been checking the glue joints but also make sure you check out the servo bays in the wings and fuse. All of the servo rails in mine were very poorly glued and some were totally loose. I saw a post where you stated that you wish you had access to the landing gear box and glue joints. On mine I cut out about 1 and 1/2 inch squares over each gear leg in the wing pockets to get access and brushed some 30 minute epoxy over all of the screws and cross members then carefully glued the squares back in the pockets. No problems so far. The gear bends in mine started to delaminate a bit after a while so I also wraped them with carbon fiber tape and epoxy and painted the repair white to match and no problems there either. It's a great flyng airplane and you'll enjoy it! How is your stab tube alignment with the main wing?

flaminheli

I bolted all of the surfaces up and there is only 1/8" differance between the two sides. But I am a perfectionist so I will mess with it until both sides are dead on before it's maiden. I will have to investigate gaining access to the gear mounts like you mentioned. All of the servo mounts feel very sturdy. I grabbed all of them and gave them a good twist, shake, push and pull and none of them showed signs of giving. I have not downloaded the manual you are referring to. I actually have not even been using the manual that came with it. It is pretty much another basic assembly process. Just a little bigger. I was asking about the cg because the AK website states that it is 6.5" from the leading edge which puts it right on the backside of the wingtube. Thanks for confirming that.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Yeah, check the pull pull! LOL... you might be fine with the stock, I think I just might have got a bad batch of pull pull rods. I don't know where you can find just the rods at though... if I did I will just change them out of mine... If not I'll just use the other pull pull set I have.

T.J.

flaminheli

I have seen them on Tower. They are the same rods as you use in scale flying wires.

flaminheli

TJ, they have these.
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE074&P=0[/link]

and these which look to have better threads.
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEVT8&P=0[/link]