50cc Setup?
02-25-2009, 03:33 PM
#101
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RE: 50cc Setup?
I never said the K2's would not be good packs just that they are not A123's. It's kind of like if you ordered and paid for a DA and received a DL instead. They are similar and both will work just fine, but they are not the same. It is fine as long as they are represented as K2 cells.
rctom,
Did your batteries with the 2500 mah cells have A123 on the label like Tired Old Man said?
rctom,
Did your batteries with the 2500 mah cells have A123 on the label like Tired Old Man said?
02-25-2009, 05:45 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: cjcyclesrc
I never said the K2's would not be good packs just that they are not A123's. It's kind of like if you ordered and paid for a DA and received a DL instead. They are similar and both will work just fine, but they are not the same. It is fine as long as they are represented as K2 cells.
rctom,
Did your batteries with the 2500 mah cells have A123 on the label like Tired Old Man said?
I never said the K2's would not be good packs just that they are not A123's. It's kind of like if you ordered and paid for a DA and received a DL instead. They are similar and both will work just fine, but they are not the same. It is fine as long as they are represented as K2 cells.
rctom,
Did your batteries with the 2500 mah cells have A123 on the label like Tired Old Man said?
The packs I sold are clearly labeled as using K2 cells and have the K2 energy logo on them. I have two of them in my own plane, I just checked.
I'm with Pat on this, I quit.
TF
02-25-2009, 06:19 PM
#104
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RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: theradioflyer
This thread is disappointing. I was lurking to hopefully see more peoples set-ups and what they used, not a discussion about a123.
This thread is disappointing. I was lurking to hopefully see more peoples set-ups and what they used, not a discussion about a123.
I'm going to be setting up a 50ccer pretty quick. I'm going to run one 2300 A123 into a Smartfly super switch. Deans between the switch and the battery, 2 leads coming out of the switch, both going to the reciever. 7955s on all surfaces, just in case I crash it and decide to build a 40%er.
4.8 volt nimh on the ignition. It's set up just like my 35% Extra but on it I'm running 2 2300 A123's through 2 switches just for redundency. Pretty simple, but more than enough. Lots of ways to set one up, this is just the way I'm doing mine.
02-25-2009, 06:30 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: nitro wing
I've done as above with 5955 and Optic Kill
Everything works just fine and its not complicated.
I've done as above with 5955 and Optic Kill
Everything works just fine and its not complicated.
I've used that same set-up for over a year with a Fromeco switch instead of the Smart-fly and I never had any problems with it.
02-25-2009, 08:50 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
I assume digitals are the only way to go? Also can Lipo's be use instead of A123's, what are the advantages and disadvantages. This is a big leap for me, the biggest is a Edge with a Saito 82. Can all post complete set-up's of what works and what it's in and pictures of the beauty is always the best I don't even know what prop to use or on which motor although the DA50 seems choice.
Jay
I don't even know what prop to use or on which motor although the DA50 seems choice.Jay
02-25-2009, 09:26 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: theradioflyer
I assume digitals are the only way to go? Also can Lipo's be use instead of A123's, what are the advantages and disadvantages. This is a big leap for me, the biggest is a Edge with a Saito 82. Can all post complete set-up's of what works and what it's in and pictures of the beauty is always the best I don't even know what prop to use or on which motor although the DA50 seems choice.
Jay
I assume digitals are the only way to go? Also can Lipo's be use instead of A123's, what are the advantages and disadvantages. This is a big leap for me, the biggest is a Edge with a Saito 82. Can all post complete set-up's of what works and what it's in and pictures of the beauty is always the best
I don't even know what prop to use or on which motor although the DA50 seems choice.Jay
Jay,
Digital servos are definitely the norm, but are not required. Just be sure to use a servo with metal gears and enough torque. Your servo, radio gear, and motor are an investment that you can move to new airframes so get the best you can budget. The Hitec 7955, 7950, 7940, and JR 8711 are the only servos rated to take a 2 cell lipo without a regulator. I used to run lipo's before A123's. Advantages of lipo's- Light, High capacity, High current, low self discharge rate. Disadvantages- Low tolerance to vibration, need to be removed from the plane to be charged, regulator are needed if servos are not rated for the voltage. I know a guy that lost his 102 QQ and garage to one catching on fire in the plane. There are many good choices of props- 22x8 Menz, Xoar, Mejzlik, Vess 22B, Vess 23A. It's hard to beat DA's customer service. If you have a problem they will take care of you. There are some cheaper alternatives now XYZ 50 HP, DL 50, Area 51. Your motor if properly taken care of will last for years and many airframes.
02-26-2009, 10:43 AM
#109
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RE: 50cc Setup?
I'm currently building a 27% GP Yak and a GHAir 50CC Extra
Yak setup:
5625's on the ailerons and elevator halves
JR8611 on the Rudder
JR 2300 mah battery 6V on receiver
JR 1800 mah battery 6V on receiver as well.
heavy duty switch for each battery
Engine is an OS 160FX
Extra Setup
DA50
7955's on all surfaces except throttle
JR2300 mah battery 6V on receiver
JR1800 mah battery 6V on receiver as well
1500 mah 4.8 on ignition
heavy duty switches all around.
Yak setup:
5625's on the ailerons and elevator halves
JR8611 on the Rudder
JR 2300 mah battery 6V on receiver
JR 1800 mah battery 6V on receiver as well.
heavy duty switch for each battery
Engine is an OS 160FX
Extra Setup
DA50
7955's on all surfaces except throttle
JR2300 mah battery 6V on receiver
JR1800 mah battery 6V on receiver as well
1500 mah 4.8 on ignition
heavy duty switches all around.
02-26-2009, 02:24 PM
#110
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RE: 50cc Setup?
There's a few posts listing lipoly's as needing to be charged outside the plane. I think people are lumping all the batteries in the same bunch. Yes we all agree Li-poly batteries have a higher chance of catching fire if mis handled. Typicaly from over charging or damaged from a crash or droped. Ther is other Li- batteries with near equal power to weight. A few I know are the Li-fe, Li-ion,( Fromco) Li-ion Manganeese.(Duralite) I know I am not giving their entire name but their generic comonly used name. These batteries are advertised as being fire safe or safer than Li-poly and generaly accepted as being as safe as Nicad and safer than NiMH. I've had NiMH swell up and get hot for absolutely no explainable reason.
Choosing a Li- battery other than Li-poly over a123 would be for the weight savings. A123 is a heavy battery. Choosing Li- batteries is for those who want to go to the field and not have to worry about recharging. Since they weigh about half what a a123 weighs you can fly twice as long with them. Draw back to the Li- batteries is their finickyness when charging. Fast recharge dramaticaly reduces their life span. Evan when re-charging them slowly, say .8 amps for a 25c 2500 mah battery, they will typically start to degrade or die completely at around 100 cycles. And expect re-charges to take upwards of 3 hours. Another caution for li- batteries is do not let the voltage get too low. Once they get below a certain voltage they have a tendency to die. Making Li- batteries a potentialy costly learning experience.
The smaller 1100 mah a123 batteries allow the use of a light weight battery in a large plane. Evan though they have a small capacity, they have a tremendous amp output. Plenty powerful for a 30% gasser. Ounce for ounce, greater than all but the most exotic and very high priced Li-poly batteries. The small capacity means frequent re-charging, but thats the beauty in them. No other battery comes close to the a123 batteries ability to re-charge so quickly. They seam to opperate better the harder they are recharged. So plan on throwing at least 4 amps at them.
Most folks claim a 1000 cycle lifespan for the a123 battery. I'm all for that.
Other benefits are numerous, such as, their lower voltage allows their use with just about any servo. No regulators needed. No reports or advertised warning of potential fire hazard. Constant high amp output keeps the chance of a computerised rx from rebooting due to power starvation at a minimum.
Sorry for the long sermon. There are a few threads here on RCU explaining lots more about these batteries. So you don't buy twice or get stuck with a system you don't like read and learn all you can before picking which type of battery you will power your plane with.
Choosing a Li- battery other than Li-poly over a123 would be for the weight savings. A123 is a heavy battery. Choosing Li- batteries is for those who want to go to the field and not have to worry about recharging. Since they weigh about half what a a123 weighs you can fly twice as long with them. Draw back to the Li- batteries is their finickyness when charging. Fast recharge dramaticaly reduces their life span. Evan when re-charging them slowly, say .8 amps for a 25c 2500 mah battery, they will typically start to degrade or die completely at around 100 cycles. And expect re-charges to take upwards of 3 hours. Another caution for li- batteries is do not let the voltage get too low. Once they get below a certain voltage they have a tendency to die. Making Li- batteries a potentialy costly learning experience.
The smaller 1100 mah a123 batteries allow the use of a light weight battery in a large plane. Evan though they have a small capacity, they have a tremendous amp output. Plenty powerful for a 30% gasser. Ounce for ounce, greater than all but the most exotic and very high priced Li-poly batteries. The small capacity means frequent re-charging, but thats the beauty in them. No other battery comes close to the a123 batteries ability to re-charge so quickly. They seam to opperate better the harder they are recharged. So plan on throwing at least 4 amps at them.
Most folks claim a 1000 cycle lifespan for the a123 battery. I'm all for that.
Other benefits are numerous, such as, their lower voltage allows their use with just about any servo. No regulators needed. No reports or advertised warning of potential fire hazard. Constant high amp output keeps the chance of a computerised rx from rebooting due to power starvation at a minimum.
Sorry for the long sermon. There are a few threads here on RCU explaining lots more about these batteries. So you don't buy twice or get stuck with a system you don't like read and learn all you can before picking which type of battery you will power your plane with.
02-26-2009, 02:55 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: altavillan
There's a few posts listing lipoly's as needing to be charged outside the plane. I think people are lumping all the batteries in the same bunch. Yes we all agree Li-poly batteries have a higher chance of catching fire if mis handled. Typicaly from over charging or damaged from a crash or droped. Ther is other Li- batteries with near equal power to weight. A few I know are the Li-fe, Li-ion,( Fromco) Li-ion Manganeese.(Duralite) I know I am not giving their entire name but their generic comonly used name. These batteries are advertised as being fire safe or safer than Li-poly and generaly accepted as being as safe as Nicad and safer than NiMH. I've had NiMH swell up and get hot for absolutely no explainable reason.
Choosing a Li- battery other than Li-poly over a123 would be for the weight savings. A123 is a heavy battery. Choosing Li- batteries is for those who want to go to the field and not have to worry about recharging. Since they weigh about half what a a123 weighs you can fly twice as long with them. Draw back to the Li- batteries is their finickyness when charging. Fast recharge dramaticaly reduces their life span. Evan when re-charging them slowly, say .8 amps for a 25c 2500 mah battery, they will typically start to degrade or die completely at around 100 cycles. And expect re-charges to take upwards of 3 hours. Another caution for li- batteries is do not let the voltage get too low. Once they get below a certain voltage they have a tendency to die. Making Li- batteries a potentialy costly learning experience.
The smaller 1100 mah a123 batteries allow the use of a light weight battery in a large plane. Evan though they have a small capacity, they have a tremendous amp output. Plenty powerful for a 30% gasser. Ounce for ounce, greater than all but the most exotic and very high priced Li-poly batteries. The small capacity means frequent re-charging, but thats the beauty in them. No other battery comes close to the a123 batteries ability to re-charge so quickly. They seam to opperate better the harder they are recharged. So plan on throwing at least 4 amps at them.
Most folks claim a 1000 cycle lifespan for the a123 battery. I'm all for that.
Other benefits are numerous, such as, their lower voltage allows their use with just about any servo. No regulators needed. No reports or advertised warning of potential fire hazard. Constant high amp output keeps the chance of a computerised rx from rebooting due to power starvation at a minimum.
Sorry for the long sermon. There are a few threads here on RCU explaining lots more about these batteries. So you don't buy twice or get stuck with a system you don't like read and learn all you can before picking which type of battery you will power your plane with.
There's a few posts listing lipoly's as needing to be charged outside the plane. I think people are lumping all the batteries in the same bunch. Yes we all agree Li-poly batteries have a higher chance of catching fire if mis handled. Typicaly from over charging or damaged from a crash or droped. Ther is other Li- batteries with near equal power to weight. A few I know are the Li-fe, Li-ion,( Fromco) Li-ion Manganeese.(Duralite) I know I am not giving their entire name but their generic comonly used name. These batteries are advertised as being fire safe or safer than Li-poly and generaly accepted as being as safe as Nicad and safer than NiMH. I've had NiMH swell up and get hot for absolutely no explainable reason.
Choosing a Li- battery other than Li-poly over a123 would be for the weight savings. A123 is a heavy battery. Choosing Li- batteries is for those who want to go to the field and not have to worry about recharging. Since they weigh about half what a a123 weighs you can fly twice as long with them. Draw back to the Li- batteries is their finickyness when charging. Fast recharge dramaticaly reduces their life span. Evan when re-charging them slowly, say .8 amps for a 25c 2500 mah battery, they will typically start to degrade or die completely at around 100 cycles. And expect re-charges to take upwards of 3 hours. Another caution for li- batteries is do not let the voltage get too low. Once they get below a certain voltage they have a tendency to die. Making Li- batteries a potentialy costly learning experience.
The smaller 1100 mah a123 batteries allow the use of a light weight battery in a large plane. Evan though they have a small capacity, they have a tremendous amp output. Plenty powerful for a 30% gasser. Ounce for ounce, greater than all but the most exotic and very high priced Li-poly batteries. The small capacity means frequent re-charging, but thats the beauty in them. No other battery comes close to the a123 batteries ability to re-charge so quickly. They seam to opperate better the harder they are recharged. So plan on throwing at least 4 amps at them.
Most folks claim a 1000 cycle lifespan for the a123 battery. I'm all for that.
Other benefits are numerous, such as, their lower voltage allows their use with just about any servo. No regulators needed. No reports or advertised warning of potential fire hazard. Constant high amp output keeps the chance of a computerised rx from rebooting due to power starvation at a minimum.
Sorry for the long sermon. There are a few threads here on RCU explaining lots more about these batteries. So you don't buy twice or get stuck with a system you don't like read and learn all you can before picking which type of battery you will power your plane with.
Well put. That's why I use A123's. I even set my fuel can up on a VPX pack and my Heli starter on a 4s 2300 pack.
02-26-2009, 06:36 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
Well the Yak came in today. Just as I was hoping, not a single wrinkle. All of the hardware is nice aluminum and carbon fiber tailwheel or atleast it looks like it don't know. Carbon fiber wing tubes. The cowl mounts with a cowl ring which is a nice touch. The covering over the wing recesses in the side of the fuse is already trimmed out and ironed over to the inside, which is a nice touch. All cap head screws throughout. All in all it looks like it is going to be a nice plane. I need to weigh it to see what it comes out to dry.
02-26-2009, 08:02 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
It might be a little over my projected weight. Everything weighed individually, engine, ignition, muffler, prop, all hardware, batteries, complete airframe and wiring and allowing 1lb for the servos comes to grand total of 17lbs. Everything got weighed except 800cc of fuel and a spinner. All measurement were taken with a digital postal scale that was checked with a 2.5lb dumbell and it was right on the money. Looks like it's going to be a pig. But remember the engine is a 62cc so it weighs a little over a pound more than a 50cc, I guess.
02-26-2009, 09:11 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
It is a Richmodel Yak 54 from A-K Models. I forgot to mention it came with carbon fiber wing tubes. I will put the caliper on them tomorrow and get the thickness of them. All of the visible glue joints look very good but I will go over them with ca just to be on the safe side.
02-27-2009, 12:59 AM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: flaminheli
My grandaughter thought she had to take a look at it.
My grandaughter thought she had to take a look at it.
Nice model and plane too.You should come over to Temple and fly sometime. I've gone to the Bryan big bird before.
02-27-2009, 07:47 AM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
I hardly get a chance to fly at all right now. We are remodeling the home and I am the carpenter [:'(] . I forgot to mention a few details about the Yak. It arrived in 3 boxes with large FRAGILE stickers on them. The manual has no chinglish in it at all it is all clearly typed English and mentions Desert Aircraft a couple of times so it looks as though the manual was "borrowed". Alex shipped the plane on Monday and I recieved it on Thursday way down here in Texas.
02-27-2009, 11:52 AM
#120
RE: 50cc Setup?
ORIGINAL: flaminheli
It might be a little over my projected weight. Everything weighed individually, engine, ignition, muffler, prop, all hardware, batteries, complete airframe and wiring and allowing 1lb for the servos comes to grand total of 17lbs. Everything got weighed except 800cc of fuel and a spinner. All measurement were taken with a digital postal scale that was checked with a 2.5lb dumbell and it was right on the money. Looks like it's going to be a pig. But remember the engine is a 62cc so it weighs a little over a pound more than a 50cc, I guess.
It might be a little over my projected weight. Everything weighed individually, engine, ignition, muffler, prop, all hardware, batteries, complete airframe and wiring and allowing 1lb for the servos comes to grand total of 17lbs. Everything got weighed except 800cc of fuel and a spinner. All measurement were taken with a digital postal scale that was checked with a 2.5lb dumbell and it was right on the money. Looks like it's going to be a pig. But remember the engine is a 62cc so it weighs a little over a pound more than a 50cc, I guess.
02-27-2009, 01:09 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
Well then I guess it is not so bad. I was hoping for around 15.5 to 16. I probably could get that easily by down sizing to a 50cc and using lighter A123 batteries. It is to late for the engine, but I can still get the A123s and save a little weight.
02-27-2009, 05:01 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
with that 62CC you shouldn't have any problems with 17 lbs!!! It should rip that plane around like nothing..
looking forward to seeing the build progress.
geoff
looking forward to seeing the build progress.
geoff
02-27-2009, 06:55 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
Good to hear. After carefull inspection of the plane, the only problem I have noticed is that the 2 lower hinges on the rudder do not line up with the vertical stab. I will plug the holes with dowls and redrill for a better fit. I also noticed that the firewall is already pinned, another plus. I just wish I could get to the landing gear mount from the inside to reinforce it.
02-27-2009, 09:54 PM
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RE: 50cc Setup?
Man FH that is a great looking plane and your Granddaughter is a doll. What radio will you be using? I also look forward to seeing your Yak build[8D]
I sort of got the OK from the wife today to keep "researching" a 50cc plane. Up until know I've only heard, " If you buy me a bigger house."
As far as airframes go I was thinking of either the 3DHobbyShop.com Extra 300SHP 87"~ http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2280
or their 89" Andrew Jesky Slick~ http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2432
I'm thinking smoke system for sure[8D]
BTW I'm not yet on 2.4Ghz and use the Fut 7CHP. I plan on using PCM and not FM. Anything I should do to shield the receiver and such?
I sort of got the OK from the wife today to keep "researching" a 50cc plane. Up until know I've only heard, " If you buy me a bigger house."
As far as airframes go I was thinking of either the 3DHobbyShop.com Extra 300SHP 87"~ http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2280
or their 89" Andrew Jesky Slick~ http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2432
I'm thinking smoke system for sure[8D]
BTW I'm not yet on 2.4Ghz and use the Fut 7CHP. I plan on using PCM and not FM. Anything I should do to shield the receiver and such?
