ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Smoke is cool, but it is worse than a glow engine/slimer soaking the airframe. I would only do it on a compy.

VincentJ

Good point Gary, another bonus of having a glassed fuse!

acerc

If one will wrap brass tubing around the canister to preheat the oil, the mess is virtually none. I buy the 1/8" x 36" brass and wrap the canister twice then go to the exhaust nipple.
There is so little oil on the airframe I usually don't even have to wipe it down.

VincentJ

When you get to that stage on your build Robert could you post a pic or two of your set-up here?

acerc

Yes I can Vincent but I will be wrapping the header instead of the canister. The canister will be eight inches away from the engine, so the header will give the best heat. As soon as the Tee for the oil lines get here I'll do it for ya.

stevegauth30

I hear that. I just dumped $800 in my oil tank. ouch.

Donairplane

My Feedback: (3)

VincentJ

Thinking of this build also, how wide is the cowl? I have a twin I could use maybe.
Thanks,
Don

VincentJ

Don, when I get home this evening I will measure the inside of the cowl for you and post the inside dimensions...

VincentJ

Don the dimensions of the cowl are:

side to side- 9 1/4"
top to bottom- 8 3/4"

Donairplane

My Feedback: (3)

Thank you VincentJ.

Don

acerc

Just for you Vincent.
Pic # 1-Measure the header and multiply by the number of wraps plus an inch for the lines to connect to.
# 2-Anneal the brass tube, it will become real bendable. And support the wire in it's entirety or it will become two pieces.
# 3-Hold firmly to the header.
# 4-Wrap tube around header tightly.
# 5-Install and hook up smoke lines.

At final assembly the lines will get clamped and the Tee will be secured to the engine.

raptureboy

Nice job Robert. I will have to update my system, since I am running straight into the header and I have to restrict the flow with a wheel coller to keep from getting too much unburned oil. This should help.

acerc

There are a number of wraps that heat the oil perfectly, but there can be too few and too many. If I ever get to making the canister I will put it on the test stand and adjust for best efficiency. So far I have found 3-5 wraps do the trick. Don't take but a couple of minutes and it really does help burning most all of the oil.

VincentJ

Thanks Robert, very helpful to understand once you see how it's done. Great Job!

VincentJ

Here is where I am going to place my hinges for the elevator halves, I will be using four 3/16" Robart hinges on each elevator. The other highlighted points on the plans indicate where the control horn hole will be placed. Before I bevel the control surfaces of the elevator, the holes will first be drilled to accept the hinge points.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I replied to this rather than all the photos because I don't like to waste TOO MUCH bandwidth and this might get a bit long.

I have always thought that might be the case, but if you have tested it I am a happy camper. Brass? Not copper? Do you do anything about metal to metal vibration brought on by engine movement and the heating and cooling of the 'system' or the dissimilar metal corrosion? Those are questions I have used as an excuse to avoid doing the work to test that theory myself. I also have wondered if JB Weld would help resolve some of those, but it is kind of permanent and that has gotten in the way of action.

Do you get the idea I am lazy?

Do you fill the tube with cable before you start bending it or are you bending it hot? I do that for cold bends to keep the walls from collapsing.

You mention supporting the "wire" or it will become 2 pieces. Did you mean 'tube'?

TIA

acerc

Jim, I support the brass tube while annealing because it gets soft enough to break apart. The annealing ( heat until red hot and let cool by room temperature) softens the brass and it can be easily bent. As for the rest high heat silicon will take care of those issues, which I will apply upon final assembly.

VincentJ

Before drilling the holes for the hinges careful measurements are needed on the trailing edge of the stabilizer and leading edges of the elevator halves. Once satisfied that my measurements were correct, I chucked a 3/16" drill bit into my cordless drill. Using the Robart drill jig, all of the holes were drilled to the correct depth.

Robart hinge points require more than drilling a straight hole. You must also consider the tapered end of the hinge near the knuckle. I fit all of the hinges using a tapered reamer shown in the picture. Fitting the hinges is something that you don't want to rush if you want them to align correctly.

VincentJ

Update on the hinging.

Note that I have added an additional hinge point to the center of each elevator half. I told you from the start of this thread that I was fortunate to have friends that are knowledgeable in 3-D planes. I value the opinion of those that have the experience that I lack.

Here are some photos showing how everything is fitting together. I will separate the halves now and bevel the elevator leading edges to 45 degrees...

Melchizedek

VJ,

Thanks for the tip on the reamer for the Robart hinges. I have yet to use the Robart hinges but will on my next build.
I had no idea, but I do now.( I thought just drill hole) Just ordered one.

That's why I love following your builds. You include even the little things that a newbie would not know.

Kevin

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

A 45 degree bevel is fairly large, so it may be better to put a 22.5 degree bevel on the elevator and the stab. Double bevel.

Just an idea.

acerc

If I'm not mistaken, on the Edge the elevator has a operational 90° range.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

The more the merrier!

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

Absolutely.

My H9 33% Edge needs a minimum of 45 degrees to do manoeuvres such as the wall.

acerc

Ok! My bad, 85°.