acerc

All of the brass inserts are epoxied in. Once dry I can make the bolts, the wiring, the flying wires, and that should do it for the wings.

acerc

An update before calling it a day. All the wiring is complete, in the pic the red arrow depicts the wire that will run through the strut but not until removal of the top wing. The black arrows are the bolts waiting to have the nuts braised in place but not until wing removal. The yellow arrows are the flying wire hardware assembled in sub sections and ready for install, prior to wing removal, LOL.

acerc

It has taken me all morning to get these flying wires in place. Albeit they may work just fine, they are nothing like the wires from Aero-Scale. I am working on the wheel's and no where can I find any reference or hardware for this tail wheel. As it currently sits I guess it is up to the builder to figure how, I'll have to ponder it for a while.

squirrly

My Feedback: (3)

Nice job on the flying wires!! They look evenly taunt...I bet that was a pain to do. Not an easy job to do keeping the wings level on each side while creating tension. Did you install one wire at a time on each side or do one side at a time? They look good.

Jeff

Melchizedek

They (wires) look Marvelous

Kevin

acerc

I made them with a bit of slack, after all were installed I snugged them up.
No comment! Actually, they don't look bad I am just use to the scale wires.

acerc

It is amazing how the little thing's can eat away the time. It has taken me since the last post (about three hours) to braze eight nut's onto eight pieces of all thread thus making bolts.

John_M_

The small details always take the longest Ace... that's a neat trick making bolts from all-thread; you can't find the length you need in a shouldered socket head, or you need the threads the full length of the bolt?



John M,

acerc

The bolt's are screwing into the threaded brass inserts and need every thread it can get in my opinion. Normal one's are either to long or to short, these are made exact.

John_M_

I see, I usually get a loner shouldered bolt and run a die down it to get the amount of thread I need, and then cut it to length... I like to leave a small shoulder below the head of the bolt for added strength at the head... but the all-thread bolt trick is a good idea, I may have to steal it from you




John M,

acerc

I have come to the conclusion that I am making a new tail wheel leaf spring. It needs to be one inch longer and one inch lower to get a good angle for linkage. Sorry Squirlly, this will add a bit of weight but more than make up for it in ground handling.
Tomorrow the wife starts a new shift, she is going to evenings which means I will not be doing anything until she leaves, most of the time anyway.

acerc

Normally I would do the same but this app is limited to thread availability. I screw the all thread all the way until bottomed out against the wood at the bottom of the insert holes. Then I screw the nut on and down to tighten the wing against the strut. Then using fuel line to hold the nut I back the all thread out, back the all thread one half turn on the nut, then braze. This gives it as much possible thread into the brass insert without question.

squirrly

My Feedback: (3)

I don't mind a little added weight. Especially when powered by a Valch 170...not to mention your tail assembly will look nice and more scale like. Its a big go for me...Thanks!

Squirlly
(Jeff)

acerc

I have made the new leaf, it is drilled and mounted. I was working on the bushing housing when the 15/64th drill bit said I quit. I will get a new one in the morning and finish it up.

squirrly

My Feedback: (3)

Nice job. Looks like you got the angle right on!!

Jeff

acerc

I spent most of the day disassembling an above ground pool, a 30'er, and thinking of how I can make this tail wheel rock solid on the ground. Here is what I came up with, it is not scale but I be damned if it's not rock solid for ground steering. I think I will do the same on mine and use the cable and springs just for show.

Melchizedek

Looks bullet proof, and easy independent adjustment from the rudder too!

Kevin

squirrly

My Feedback: (3)

Nice idea!! The steering won't slip or give like the springs do and the ball links should pivot as needed when the metal tail flexes up/down. Cool!!

Jeff

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Is it possible for it to be too solid? Aren't the springs supposed to dampen the loads from the tail wheel and keep them from reaching the servo?
It's just my opinion ....... for what it's worth.

Nice to see you back in the shop after your road trip.

Art

acerc

The white horn has flex, enough to prevent breaking anyway. Besides, in any system there need to be a weak link for that "Oh crap bump", I would rather a piece of plastic break than anything else. That's also why I use the servo horns supplied with the servos.

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

You're right about needing a weak link - I subscribe to that line of thought, too.
I should have known that you had it already thought it through.

John_M_

Not to mention with the shock springs, in order for them to work at slow speeds, they would need to be pretty stiff, defeating the whole idea... just try and make a tight turn from a dead stop with softer springs; that's when you bring your little young nephew with to go and retrieve your plane .

The high end servos we have today, with the metal gears are pretty tough; I have yet to see a stripped gear set in a hi-torque rudder servo.


John M

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Looks great! If its a choice of scale or a good ground handling its an easy choice, ground handling everytime!

acerc

Spent most of the day at a friends house letting him paint my prop. His paint, his gun, sooo, why not him using it. I have begun with the fitting on the fuse panels, once done I can add the engine and fit the cowl. I probably won't get to far, amazing how tuckered out one can get sitting on one's duff.

squirrly

My Feedback: (3)

I'm the same way...I get tiered just watching someone work. LOL!!

Jeff