skylarkmk1

Bernie,

I just took another look at your engine mount pictures. Is your carburator inside the aluminum mount? If it is, you may want to hollow out the Plywood part of the mount and the firewall and seal up what appears to be an opening on the lower side of the aluminum mount. Cool and undisturbed air would be drawn from inside the fuselage. Might be the easiest way to get cool air to the Carb with no extra conections to worry about when mounting the cowl. Make sure to vacumm all the dust from the fuselage and secure everything before starting the engine.

BigBoy99

Thanks guys,

priority funtion of the cool air is, to cool down the carb. The air, that the engine needs for combustion I could take
from the inside of the fuse, it´s open in direction cockpit .

For Example of the big heat generation of the 250, a friend of mine made the first test running at a temperature of 5°C.
The engine was mounted free in the air. After 20 min. the motor was such hot, that he burned his finger on the prop-plate.
The paint of the prop was burned in to the downside of this plate. He recommended me, to make no running in with this engine,
it´s better, to make the running-in phase during the flight with moderate throttle.
In my opinion this concerns only the 250.


Bernie

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

That is alright... I understand. I'm building a Balsa USA 33% Stearman.It will take me some time to complete. I just now got this computer working. My other computer died from old age. So I went out and bought all the parts to make my own.it works just great on the first try.
Steve

BigBoy99

hi guys,

these days I made the wires for the cabane struts, the connections for
gas and smoker filling, front and upper fuse fairings.
see self:

Regards

Bernie

BigBoy99

here the filling connections:

BigBoy99

the front upper and side fairings:

BigBoy99

Look from the side:

redcesar

Hi Bernie,

You have done a nice job on the panels on the fuse, I like the air vents on top of it. These litle scale details make it like a real plane. My intention is to add in the winter time also more such details.

I can see you make a solid connection point for the the wires of the cabane struts, I think a good improvement for more strength.

For my next model I am thinking of these biplane.....

http://www.modellbau-barth.de/tinc?k...ex,1,5,800,740

It is an other "Barth" in gemany, what do you think of it Bernie?

It is a GFK fuse with the wings made of ribs.

Regards,
Ruud.

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Bernie, I just thought I would share this with you. On my Barth Waco I run the 215. I have had no problems with engine starting after it gets warm. I have a whole cut into the firewall just behind the engine/mount on the engine for air to get to carb. I also don't have any type of baffels around the cylinders on engine and it runs fine.
Bernie.I did find out that it helped my engine when I set the idel and mixture needles AFTER the engine was very warm. It took me a few experiments before I figured this point out. And I have no problems starting engine after it has flown about 25 minutes in the air.
Just thought this may give you some ideas???.
Also I told you about my new computer I built.I can now run a good Cad/Cam program on it and I think I will be able to design my own engine dome just as soon as I play with the Cad/Cam program for awhile.

My new computer is just working so good I can hardley belive it. I installed a "Gigabyte" GA-P35--Ds3L/S3l Motheer board with a Intell dueocore processer at 2.33ghz with 4 gigabits of Ram. I also used a Nvida 8500GTS video card at 512 ram. This unit will work just fine running Windows Vista Premium 64bit edition. Also I can now run a great flight sim on it when I can't be at the field flying.

Have a great day.
Steve from raining So California.

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud,

I know this model, it´s simply too expansive...1821€...wow! Mind you, a kit, not an ARF!!!
That´s a problem, that I watch here in Europe, the prices are exploding more and more. But unfortunatly not my fee.
I do not have "many" thoughts for my next model.....hmmmm...only a little bit ....my wife kills me. If the Waco is
flying, there are nearly 6000€ in the Air, this are 7500$!!!!!

First important thing for me is, to bring the Waco in the air and healthy back to the earth, and have a lot of fun with her
A long time later I will think about a new model. Perhaps a big Warbird for the Moki, .......or a big GeeBee R3 from Airworld
she kost´s ONLY 2600€ http://www.airworld.online.de/Deutsc...Bee/Geebee.htm

The work of the fuse is ending soon, than I have to make the N-Struts and than I can finally cover the wings and the stab.
I mean, January or February she will get ready. 10 month building time with a lot details...that´s OK.


See You

Bernie

BigBoy99

Hey Steve,

nice to read you, how are you, what´s about yor arm? Are you healthy now?

You have to explane more exactly, what you do with the needles, to start the RCS215 in a warm condition.

I have too a CAD programm on my PC, but it seems, I´m too stupid to handle it. But it´s an english version,

that apologizes a lot.




Do you know the song.....seems it never rains in California......


Have a nice suday
Bernie from SUNNY Germany

redcesar

Hi Bernie,

Yes that is a lot of money, but we are trying to get only the GFK fuse and the other small GFK parts that is aprox 500,-- € The building plans are maybe 80,-- €.
The rest we can buy ourselves in our local shop.

Yes 10 months building time is not much ,
Have you think already in which color you make the Waco? And are you spray it or use a roller.

I have done it with a velvet roller and if your paint is a litle bit warm and thin enough the result turned out better than expected.


**Off topic**
For the winter months I am flying with a Piper Pawnee span 2,7 mtr. I have bought it second-hand. I am now busy with an other exhaust. The standaard exhaust that is on the ZG62 is to restrictive so I have build a low budget cannister made out of two spray cans and build it in the fuse. I hope i get some more rpm now out the ZG62.


Grüßen,

Ruud.

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud,

it will be yellow with black stripes and thin red lines, just like the origin G-WOCO, which I have on CD
A friend of mine works as automotive painter and I can spray it with his help and tips in a tempered spray cabin,
that´s better in january


Regards
Bernie

Cybertom

BigBoy99,

For what its worth in a former life I was a small engine repairman. I mostly worked on chain saws and I am STIHL factory trained. The problem your describing (engine has trouble starting when hot) sounds to me like heat is being transferred from the crankcase to the carburetor which is causing vapor lock. How is the carb mounted to the engine? STIHL and other manufacturers have dealt with this issue by using a flexible non-heat conductive throat to connect the carb to the crankcase or cylinder. I have also seen a block of material in between the carburetor and engine that prevents heat transfer.

Just a thought

BigBoy99

Hi Cybertom,

yes that´s right, the heat comes from the crankcase. Because of this reason RCS made a isolation to the carb, made of hard plastic, 1/4 inch thick.
I changed it to one with 3/4 inch thickness and hope, it´s better than the origin solution.

Today I made the wooden fairings of the cabane struts, the front-cockpit door dummy and the dummy for the service hatches in the front, left and right.
It was not necessary, to make them for open. All what´s normaly there, filling and choke and accu for ignition, I placed under the cockpit, what i can takeout.
But I can demount the first row of fairings if necessary.
see self:



Regards
Bernie

BigBoy99

@redcesar

Hi Ruud,

it looks good, your selfmade bumpers. That´s something, I never did, hard solding.
Is there any wall with holes in the cannister, or are they empty?

Regards
Bernie

Barlingbomber

Redcesar, Big boy99. Dis you consider the Balsa USA 1/3 scale Stearman as a next project. I have one still in the box and it looks to be a beauty. The only problem of course is the engine which really has to be a radial or a very ingenious disguise. One advantage of this kit is you can buy the kit with the undercarriage already set up and sodered which saves time building the necessary jig. Just a thought

redcesar

Hi Barlingbomber,

Yes the Balsa USA Stearman is also spinning in my head. I have already asked the price in Germany and that is aprox. 1400 euro.

Barlingbomber is it possible to send me some pictures of content of the kit I am verry curious about it. My email is [email protected]

I have heart that the fairings are made of ABS or is it in the new kit made of GFK?

Thanks in advance,
Cesar.

redcesar

Yes there is one wall with holes.

The drawing explanes a lot... it is a simple solution but it works.

Regards,
Ruud.

skylarkmk1

Gentlemen,

I am adding the Pica detail drawings with corresponding photos to the Waco YMF build thread in the Vintage and Antique section. These are of a 1930s era Waco, a UBF-2 (NC 2091K) that has a similar cockpit to the original YMF/UMF. Thought you might want to take a look, much different that the new Classic and Super cockpits. Post 3646 starts with the drawing and instrument panels, more picture follow in other posts.

BigBoy99

Hi John,

I´m bulding namely a Super Version, but let us see it, I´m still interested

Regards
Bernie


Thanks, I saw it in the Vintage&Antique Thread

skylarkmk1

Guys,

Your collective help is needed. Over on the WACO YMF Build thread, I mentioned that scale functioning landing gear was under development. Dany from Team Genisis has asked Darrell Tenny at Sierra Giant to work on the gear and Darrell has indicated that he needs input from Waco YMF/UBF fans to see if there is enough interest to make the gear. Sierra is tops in making gear, much better than others. Once the drawings are complete, they can be scaled to whatever size is needed and the CNC machine can make the gear. Don't respond here, contact Darrell at www.sierragiant.com or 440-476-4885. Thanks.

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Thanks, I have a few more pictures to post that match up with the drawings. Need a break so I will post them later today.

Barlingbomber

Redcesar

no problem I will take some photos of the Stearman this weekend,

best regards,

Phil

BigBoy99

Hi friends,

past days I closed the fuse and completed the wheel-shoes: