Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

The tail assembles easily, with a great dovetail joint. Easy, the linkages are good, but, I put CF tube over the Elevator and Rudder rods, to make them stronger, they seemed a little bendy to me.

The flying wires provided are heavy gauge coated, and are a B$@#%@ to get right , because they are so thick. Substitute lighter gauge to make it hassle free.

The wheels are Junk IMO, they are inflatable, but are too skinny for my liking, AND I ripped out one valve while pumping them up.

The DuBro 6 inch inflatables are perfect. Just the right amount of cushion.

I custom made the extensions to the back, and used a Y harness and extensions for the Flaps, there are dual servo holes on the left wing for the flap, so you can properly orient the flap servo if you are using a Y or separate channels. Watch this closely, get it right.

The gas tank 50oz fits in only one direction, on it's side, with the output hole in the hole of the firewall. I used it for the original build, and will be going to 2 32 oz tanks for gas and smoke. A lot more work. Actually, leaving the 50oz in and putting the 32 under the servo tray would be easier.....

The wingtubes were a tight fit, and the struts were tight too, I spent one whole day, for final fit, outside tweaking and adjusting.

THe top pilot shelf goes in only with the rear tilted up, and then it wiggles into place, I made mine removable.

The wingtube screws will P#%# you off, get differnet ones right away, Metric. Drill and tap the left ones. The right ones are already tapped and drilled.

The WM manual takes a swipe at the builder, it says something like this...

"Screw threaded wing bolts into one side (right) of tubes after assy, then IF ADVANCED PILOT, you can drill and use tapping tool to make same on other side....IF NOT ADVANCED PILOT, you drill and use self-tapping wood screws, be careful ,as BEGINNER PILOT will strip out these holes after a few uses. (It should also say, Our crappy screws will make sure of this). I tapped mine, I hate this method of holding on wings and stabs, ...hence in the re-build we did it with blind nuts, and anti-rotaiton pins on the root.

WOW,....talk about taking a swipe at the builder.....laughable.

Good luck, in three or four evening you should have it together.

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

I purchased the WM 1/3 Super Cub last fall . I have not purchased an engine for it yet. I plan on flying this model with some mild aerobatics and also would like slow flight ability. How much should the engine weigh to get it to balance? What size ( cc ) engine will work for this plane. Like I say, mild aerobatics. No unlimited verticle etc.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

The Reccomended GT-80 twin form Zenoah fits well, and will do very spirited aerobatics. No unlimited vertical, but enough to barnstorm in a spirited fashion.

It needs 5-6 pounds on the nose. Some have said they put a G-62 with little or no weight, but IMO it would need weight up front unless you used the spring starter and a spinner...maybe even then some batteries up front.

But, this bird is 26 lbs, and I have a 24lber with a G-62, it barnstorms, but vertical is a stretch, it climbs but not with authority.

I guess this bird is a real chameleon, because you can dress it bunch of different ways, all according to your flying style.

THe GT-80 and this bird is the standard, and it won't disappoint, a differnt story if your at 5000msl , though. In MN, no problem.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

WOO HOO....I got my 1/3 Super Cub back last nite from it's rebuild.


Man, this one is NOT a World Models anymore. ....it is built American Engineering style ,...to last.

I will pst pics of her tonite.

bignuts181

As heavy as a brick sh*t house......american caddy style

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

HaHa....heavy....no ...rebuilt forensicly correct by my good friend and secretary of our club RSM, Ted.


Unfortunately...or well, fortunately, I have no crash pics of the mishap/shredding through the trees. If you watch my touch and go video...imagine me dorking the approach way up high and blasting through the left two trees at tree-top height.

The 3W106 made it THROUGH the trees and into the field 150ft. The airframe tumbled down sllllllooooooowwlyyyy in multiple pieces.

The left wing was largely intact but beat up, the right wing was shattered, the fuse mid section was shattered, and the cabin was split top/bottom, firewall removed .

It sat in it's crash pile for 2 months. While I mourned. Ted took it, feeling sorry for me, and looking for a challenge, 3 1/2 months later.....Wa La.....


No plans, just forensic science.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Here it is covered.


The final trim scheme is not reflected in these photos....when I can, I will get some shots of it as it is now....

It is a kind of like a hybrid clipped wing scheme, sunbursts, and invasion stripes.

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

I am in line for the next production run of the WM Super Cub. Due sometime in April.

Am in the process of bringing together all the major pieces parts to complete this build. I downloaded the manual and it sure does look sparse. So sparse that it did not list items needed to complete, or the specs for these items. Can anyone with a "real" manual give me specs on the servos?

I am also looking for a Gt-80 (or GT-74, Z445) at a reasonable price. Was going to use a 62 but I know they shake a good bit. I like the smooth twins. Any leads?

Has anybody checked into a big converted 4 stroke for this plane? Ideas? Thoughts? Rants welcomed too!



Blue Skies

Stan
WV

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Use the best servos you can afford. While the 50oz tank is way overkill, it fits. Lots of room for smoke tank and pump., I think the tail wheel and landing gear are ripe for upgrades.

You will love this plane. The manual is definitely not for a first ARF builder, but it has the dimensions and basics in it.

bignuts181

Hey there Boss and all, you know I was just looking over the shape and construction of the super cub and for all intensive puposes it looks a lot like a CMPRO cub in cinstruction, only much bigger.

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

The GT-80 will not fit under the cowling. The carburetor and intake manifold are too high. The top of the cowling would have to be cut open in order for it to fit plus the sides of the cowl have to be cut open for the jugs and spark plugs to fit. I looked and looked and there is not a twin 80 or even seventy that will fit inside of the cowl. I think the only reason the manufacturer suggests an 80 cc twin is for the weight of the engine. You need a boat anchor up front to get this thing to balance. I am using a Fuji 64 in mine. I had to add 1.2 pounds of dead weight to the firewall to get it to balance. It weights in at a total of 28 pounds like they suggest. It should have plenty of power for this airplane. Balsa USA 1/3 scale Supercub uses a 50 cc engine and it weights in at 35 pounds. And in addition to the Fuji 64 fitting inside the cowl, the engine costs far far less than the Fuji 86 or the Zenoah GT-80 or the ZDZ 80 twin. Plus it only uses one muffler. Mufflers are not cheap for these engines. This airplane does not require a high performance engine to fly and do mild aerobatics but I guess if flyers want unlimited verticle and hovering ability with a cub then I guess overpowering is the answer. But with a Cub? Next thing will be Edge 540 bush planes.

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

WOW, I have a G62 in mine, built according to plans, (changed to H9 ball link pushrods)
4721 JR servos, 2.4 RX, 4500 6 volt battery.
Balanced just fine, no DEAD weight needed or added.

I realize this is about the SUPER CUB but identical planes.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

When I measured , I thought it would...bummer. I put a 3W106 on mine, because I really want to play hard with it, and have OOPS power.

Now an Edge540 on floats....hmmmmmm...

Of course a G-62 class motor would pull this up, heck mine took off in three feet with flaps deployed at half . It is a heavy bird, but sure doesn't fly like it .

Come on Spring!!!!! That groundhog ws right. .....brrrrr..r....

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

When you transport the wings, do you remove the struts? If you remove the struts, what kind of locktite or lockwashers or whatever are you using to secure the bolts. I want to transport and store the wings with the struts removed but I do not want the bolts to come loose at the flying field when the wing is attached. I also want fairly easy insertion and removal of the bolts. Any suggestions?

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Yes, I remove the strut assy's, keeping the "U" bar attached to the strut. The metric blind nuts in the wings ARE of good quality, as we inspected them during the rebuild. I use socket head screws for all, and pitched the WM stock screws...cheap white metal junk.

I noticed that there is a oval gap in the bottom strut hole. And, when the wing is stressed , such as a loop, the strut would pull out to the end of the oval, I noticed this on disassembly after some spirited flying. So, I made a spacer out of old screw stock, and I drop it in the oval, and cover it with washers , so it doesn't move "out , again.

My gripe was the wing (tube) attachment method....putting screws into the tube just plain stinks. One slip of the tool and pop goes the covering. Or, drop the screw and watch it get lost in the grass. Yucko.

With the blind nuts now installed in the wing roots....1/4-20 wing bolts , two per side from inside the fuse....I like that better.

I would not chance leaving the struts on, I would be worried about breaking the inner structure of the wing in a mishap while handling. Even though, the strut mounts in the wings are solid. We inspected them when the wings were stripped, and the construction and attachment points are good. So, to each his own. If you got the room to leave them on, it would save ten minutes a the field.

My wife is making the mothers of all wing bags for me. Darn things are so big.

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

I use socket head screws also. But do you use loctite or some other method when attaching the struts to the wings?

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Lock washers, no loctite, that would gum up the blind nuts and eventually have a bad day.

AFTER assy, I put a little Goop (Shoe Goo) Automotive glue on the screw, in ten minutes , by the time I ready to fly , it is sticky and won;t let the even a severely loose bolt rotate out. It's kinda like outboard loctite. Goop comes in different formula's , auto, home and Garden, house hold...it's mostly the same stuff...I use Auto and household....

http://www.amazinggoop.com/amazinggoop/index.html
http://www.amazinggoop.com/amazinggoop/index.html
http://www.amazinggoop.com/amazinggoop/index.html
http://www.amazinggoop.com/amazinggoop/index.html

I use it on every bolt during assy of my gassers...like when I have to put on removable stabs on my Yak,,,,the bolts get Gooped, My cowl screws, on every servo arm screw..., every linkage screw., just about anything that I don't want to come apart, BUT need to remove regularly.

Loctite has it's place, but I use Goop on a lot of stuff....just be ready to pull on it to get it off...it is tough stuff. The best silicone type glue I have ever used.

I get it at ACE Hardware. Paint section has most formulas....Auto section has the automotive variety. They almost all the same, IMO.

So, Goop them bolts , fly it, then pull it off. I don;t like using loctite on blind nuts ....

Whymee

My Feedback: (13)

Can someone inform me as to what size spinner the WM SC requires?

Thanks

Stan
WV

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

I have the WM 1/3 Supercub. I installed a Fuji BT-64A. 22x10 prop. I have not flown it yet. I have not put on a spinner yet but when I do it will be 3.5" minimum to 4.0" maximum. I never add spinners until after I have flown the airplane a couple of times just to make sure the prop does not begin to loosen.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

I am going to use a Cub Hub . http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on

They make a smaller one for one-bolt Zenoahs..but, I will be using a 3W106 and 27 inch prop.

Man, this plane is going to get some miles ...

flightstick

Hi Guys from South Africa,

Gees you all really over power your Models. I have the WM 1/3 Scale cub as well. Motor is a ZDZ 50cc. Hitec Servos all round. Using Lipo Packs to save a bit of weight . Model Balanced at 15% from leading Edge. Awsome power, doesnt prop hang but has plenty for that scale flying, plus used a couple of times as a tug

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

OK,

REbuilt......here are pics from the Re-maiden ...it went well. I will be posting video of the maiden and all the stunting it can do after the cowl is on and the motor is set to it's happy place.


Smoke on!!!!


Look at the landing pic......one wheel touch , baby.....

bignuts181

Hi there Boss well I have to conceed defeat with the Cub and have pulled the pin on using this cub. I went Aerotowing to a majour event and saw how the J3 cub flew and had a closer look and I don't think it will cope with the 157 3w CS. Then the final nail went in the coffin when I saw how a 1/3 rd Bird Dog performed with a 157 B2 no less...... 65 degree climbs with a total mass of 47kg....(24 for tug 23 for half scale glider).....so I have cancelled the cub and signed on with a 1/3rd Cessna 150, glass fuse foam timber/glass wing.

thanks for all your help and encouragement

cheers Rossco.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Big,

you gotta pull them birds with authority for sure. Otherwise, it is the tail wagging the dog syndrome....LOL.


Good Luck, I will look for your posts on the progress.

I am looking for info on Banner Towing but, I am not having much luck. I know Banner towing is a different discipline than a Tug ship.

wiz310

I have done it in the real scale cubs, Super cubs and callairs......... what do you want to know about it?.
PM me with your questions and I will PM or email ya back.
Cheers, Wiz.