I just bench ran my new YS110 All fittings properly connected and secured. Fuel used was Byron 15% with 20% oil. Needle opened 3 turns. The engine started easily and I began to run it at about 3600 r.p.ms .After about a minute it died. Restarted again and It ran for about 2 minutes and died again. After checking all connections and changing fuel tank pressure line angle (For more clearance from tank top) I restarted again and it ran the rest of the tank fine at 4100r.p.m.s. After refueling I started it again and it quit the same as it did the first tank. I finally got it to run nicely at 4000 r.p.m.s but when I changed throttle settings (lower or higher) it would die again. Is this typical of YS break in or do I have other problems. I am using a O.S. type f plug and a 15/8 APC prop. Any tips or info would be appreciated! Thanks in advance Bass1

Bass1, I have broken in quite a few YS engines just last week a new 110 also. I think your main problem is that it is just too rich. You may have to leave your glow starter on the engine for the first tank or two at 3 turns out it is just too rich.

But now that you have a tank of fuel run through it you can start to lean it out. I would say go to 2 turns out on the needle and run the you know what out of it. The 110 I just broke in had one tank through it rich and has been flying ever since and it gets better every flight.

I would peak the rpm's with a tach and then go about 500 to 600 rpm's rich and fly it. Then go a little leaner after a few tanks have been burned. But don't go too lean 200 rpm's rich is a good spot to stick with.

You may also have to lean the low speed needle a little to get it to idle best. Try to set the idle around 2200 to 2400 that seems to work the best.

Oh, I almost forgot, make sure to check the valve clearance. I have seen quite a few new YS engines with the valves too tight or too loose right out of the box. Also make sure your glow plug is good. New engines are hard on plugs. You may want to use 20% or 30% nitro fuel and make sure to use all synthetic oil. The higher the nitro the better YS engines Idle and transition.

Good luck with your new YS you will love it once you get it set.

Hey Edgeguy, I talked to a guy at YS Performance and he said 15% nitro is not enough. What type of fuel are you using?

Bass1, I only use Powermaster fuels. I think they are by far the best.

I use YS blend 20% nitro and 20% all synthetic oil. I have also used 30% nitro and 23% low viscosity all synthetic Heli blend also. The 30% REALLY runs good but is a bit expensive. The 20% is good also just not as much power as the 30%.

The 30% will get you about 400 to 500 rpm more than the 20%.

I have been using the 20% in all of my glow engines. It is just great fuel.

Happy flying!

All my YS engines are also very happy with Powermaster YS 20/20 fuel. Wildcat YS 20/20 is very good also.

15% vs. 20% nitro will not cause the engine to die for no apparent reason. The engine will needle in easier with the 20%, but the engine will run fairly well on 15%. I broke my .63 in on 10% as it's cheaper and all you are really concerned with during break in is keeping the temps low, which running rich does, and allowing the ring and valves to seat in properly.

I agree that you were probably running it too rich during your first few runs. Lean it out a bit and it should start to behave more normally. If it doesn't there is more than likely an air leak either in the tank/lines, air box, or the valves need to be adjusted. There is nothing mysterious about the YS engines. They have a pump and the intake tract is different from other 4-strokes, but otherwise are just another engine. Break it in the same as you would any other 4-stroke.

John

JWN, I agree with most of your response except that YS engines do not have a pump,except for the 140DZ, the rest all have a pressurized fuel system with a regulator.


Just wanted to clarify things a little.

Thanks for the input! I pulled the pressure line and tried to blow through the check valve and realized I couldn't get air to flow through either way. I unscrewed the check valve and the diaphram fell out and when I put it back in it worked properly! Now the engine is running great. I would have thought if the diaphram was not seated properly, air would flow both ways?? I am happy now.

Edge, if it wasn't a pump (I never said WHAT was pumped) it wouldn't need a regulator. All of the YS's, save the 1.40DZ, are configured to use the crank case as the actual pressure pump. Most of what is pumped is air with a small amount of fuel mixed in since it too is in the crank case.

Just a little more clarification.

John

JWN, I think we all know what is meant by a pump. All I was saying is that most YS engines dont have a fuel pump except for the DZ. I ( as did probably everyone else who read you last post) thought you were saying YS engines all had fuel pumps.

If you want to get more technical, all internal combustion engines are really only a pump, with a little fuel and ignition mixed in for combustion.

I really wasn't trying to argue or step on your toes. I was just wanting to clarify things a little. Too bad you obviously thought I was stepping on your toes. I guess I will refrain from further posts to try and help people out. This just isn't any fun anymore.

Bass1, I am glad to hear that your new 110 is running great now. Enjoy your new engine, YS engines rule!!!

I'd be pleased to know your performance figures with this 110. Did you tached it lately ?

Thanks.

I just went through the first gallon of fuel and still keeping the needle setting rich(2 turns).At this setting I'm getting an idle at about 2,000 r.p.m.s and a good blubbery rich full throttle at about 7,000r.p.m.s. I'm getting ready to start on a second gallon and will start to tweak more. I am still using 15% nitro/20% oil and will move to 20%nitro after the second gallon.I'll post final figures soon. So far so good. This engine is the easiest starting motor I've ever owned!

Bass!, I am getting 9400 rpm with a 15X8 menz prop with Powermaster YS 20/20 fuel. Idle is about 2200 and high speed needle is 1 1/2 turns open.

This engine has about 3 gallon sof fuel run through it. It just seems to be getting better every tank.

Hey Edgeguy,My new YS is going in my Aeroworks Edge 540 60/90. Something strange happened today during runup. It's the first time I tried to lean it for maximum R.P.M.s. After two tanks of Coolpower 15% Heli I began to lean the engine.My tach(Glowbee Intellitach) gave me a 9800 r.p.m. reading.I leaned it some more and got a reading of 10,500 r.p.m.s. I was in shock and continued to lean some more and finally stopped leaning at 12,000 r.p.m.s. I immediatly opened the needle to richen just in case these readings were true. This was with an APC 15/8 prop. I suspected a faulty tach, so I went in my garage and opened a brand new tach of the same brand,put a new battery in it and tried to repeat the process. Sure enough I got the same readings!! This can't be or can it. I was so shocked I packed up my gear and drove to my LHS and discussed this with THE local engine guy who is very familiar with YS engines and he said you probably are mistaken on the 15/8 and was more likely a 15/6. So back home I go and upon checking the prop I discovered it is a 15/8. Tomorrow I will try a 16/8 APC and take readings unless the Hurricane has other ideas. What do you think of this??

I would try a different brand of tach, maybe a Hangar 9 or a Hobbico. If you have the money, get a TNC Digital Tach. Unless you are running 30% nitro fuel, it is almost impossible to achieve 12000 RPM with a 15x8 prop.

Not that's it's any of my business, but man..Over a gallon of fuel, still on the test stand, and just now trying for a peak reading. I'd been flying that thing at 500 off peak about 3/4 of a gallon ago. Not that I'm putting you down for taking extreme care during the break-in, but I think you are probably very safely into the "go ahead and fly" mode.

For reference, I ususally put 2 or 3 tanks thru a YS and then fly it a few hundred off peak until it gets to where it'll hold super low idle, then fly it a couple hundred off peak.

I'm not saying you're wrong and I'm right, and it can be mesmerizing running one on the stand (they are sweet!), but in all honesty I think you could be flying that thing.

Since I'm waiting for a part that was ordered for the airplane the engine will power and having plenty of fuel I have nothing else to do but run the engine. It's running better with each tank and I'm enjoying the process! Hopefully when I install the engine in my Edge, it will be near perfect. Now lets see what this 16/8 will do.

Bass1, I really don't think it is possible for a 110 to turn a 15X8 prop at 12000 rpm's even with 30% nitro fuel.

You may want to try your tach again, I have seen very bogus readings from different tach's because of the light shining on the prop at weird angles. Also make sure you are not trying to use the tach indoors with lights turned on ( especially fluorescent lights. ) WHenever I get a wild tach reading I will try it again a few times with the plane or engine in a different enviroment ( different lighting conditions ).

Also it is not uncommon for props to be mislabeled. I have seen APC props with the same sizes and pitch labels that were obviously not the same. Personally I don't run APC props, I think they are too heavy and too inconsistant. I usually run ( my favorite ) Mejzlik carbon fiber props ( a little expensive but worth every penny ) or Menz wood props. I think these 2 brands are far superior to APC. You will be amazed at how much beter the throttle response is with a lighter prop.

I had one of the Aeroworks 60/90 Edge planes also. I had a YS91FZ on it and it flew very well until the horizontal stab broke off. I think you will really like your new plane and engine it should be a great combo. Just make sure to use flying wires on the tail!

Hey Edge, I just pulled out a 15/6 APC and compared the two and the 15/6 is obviously flatter so I believe the 15/8 is a 15/8. I tached it outdoors. I've only used this tach on Saito and OS 4 strokes and never reached over 9300 r.p.m.s on these engines so I was stunned when it first read 9800. Then when it went past 10,000r.p.ms I knew the tach was in error and opened the brand new one with the same results. I wonder if anyone else has had this happen with Globee Tachs. Anyway I didn't get a chance to try the 16/8 due to hurricane preps. If this stuff happens again I will buy a different brand tach. I am also using a Slimline Pitts muffler that is designed for the YS 91 but was assured by YS performance that it was o.k. to use. When I first started running 4 strokes, alot of guys using them used the heaviest props they could find and said they liked the "flywheel effect" which gave them a better idle. I've been going by this for years but don't really know if it makes a difference. I am going to try running both props and take readings again as soon as the weather clears.

Bass1, there is quite a few people that like the APC props, I just really like the better response with a lighter prop. You should try one I think you will like it.

Good luck with the hurricane I hope it doesn't turn out too bad for all of you east coasters.

Finally got power back!! It's been almost 6 full days with no electricity, ice cold showers and canned garbage food. I'm still cleaning debri from my yard. Benny no-likey hurricane! I'll try one of those props. Now I can get back to my engine and some much needed flying.

Bass, I have the same tach you do and under certain conditions I get those same exaggerated readings, however if I take the readings from the front of the prop they are correct. I know that is a no no. In the AM it will only read correctly from the back. It also seems to read black props better than gray ones.

Well, I finally was able to run the engine again. I tried my APC16/8 and got a peak reading of 8800 rpms. Then I put the 15/8 back on and got 9380 rpms. That sounds more like it. So I guess the tachs (both) temporarily found the "Bermuda Triangle". I was able to get a smooth idle at about 2100 rpms. Transition from idle to full and vice-versa was nice and smooth! As soon as my fiberglass landing gear arrives, I can rebalance the plane and go flying!! I can't wait. With the Saito 100, I was getting a peak r.p,m. at about 9000 with a 14/8 Now I'm getting close to 9400 with a 15/8 and the engine is not fully broken in yet. I guess I'll order a new set of wings also in case I rip them off!

I have a small ys and am struggling to understand the supercharger and likely thats why I cant get the darn engine to run..explain the regulator and how to get the pressure right to run the engine..sounds dumb but I am struggling..now the whole world knows ..

The YS engine just pressurizes the tank with crank case pressure via a one way check valve. The regulator just regulates the amount of fuel pressure going into the engine at different throttle settings. It's mainly adjusted to set the mid range of the engine...the high speed and low speed needles work just like any other engine (the low speed needle is like an air bleed carb in that CW makes it richer and CCW makes it leaner). There is nothing about the regulator that should keep you from being able to run your engine. Most of the time it needs no adjustment at all.

The "supercharger" is simply a disk induction that pressurizes the next charge of air-fuel mixture just before the intake valve opens. It has no adjustment, that's just the way the engine operates.

Read Post #2 to have a very nice tuning instruction sequence.

Make sure the one way valve is in the "vent" line, is connected in the proper direction (blow thru to the tank, not from the tank), run a good 20/20 fuel, run an OS F plug, run a fuel filter between the engine and the check valve and one between the tank and the engine in the fuel line, read the instructions that came with your engine.