N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I just inherited a OS 35FP. It appears almost NIB but apparently had been run once and put away without being cleaned out. It was quite congealed. After much coaxing, I got the engine apart but the rear cover gasket got destroyed in the process.

I've looked all over the Internet but have not been able to find a replacement set. So, I am wondering if there is a source for that ultra-thin gasket material, so that I can cut one out. TH has some gasket material but it's too thick (1/64"). I need something about .003 thick.

Does anyone know a source for this, or do you know of some obscure source for vintage OS parts?? I found one place in NJ but he won't sell over the internet - he does in-store sales only.

Thanks for any help that you can give.

Bob

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

The gasket set for an OS FP .40 will suit.

Larrybtoys on *Bay sells replacement gaskets for many OS engines. Send him a message to see if he has any to suit yours.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=...&_nkw=OS&rt=nc

The back plate gasket for the Magnum GP .40 (FP .40 clone), which also suits the Tower .40 and TT .42, will also suit:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...0&_sacat=0late


Otherwise you will need to make your own. It is easy and an old playing card is perfect gasket material. A sharp exacto knife, a 2.5 mm hollow point punch and an ink stamp pad and you are good to go.

.

tlrascal

My Feedback: (56)

I have some paper sacks that are a very thin waxlike paper. I use them for gaskets all the time. If you want send me your address and I'll send you one.

greggles47

For very thin gaskets a piece of writing/printing paper will do fine.
Cut it out, coat it in engine oil, and go fly.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the heads-up guys. I knew about the paper sack idea and the paper. I was wondering if someone had actually sold the gasket material in bulk. If not, I will be using your idea(s). Thanks....

earlwb

You can also use the 3x5 cards (they call them card stock) too. Those work quite well. I like to save some of the junk mail cards I get all the time. I use them for mixing epoxy when building etc. But they turn out to work well for making gaskets too.

aspeed

I seem to recall opening up the back of a newer motor lately, and the gasket was made of plastic, seemed like a milk bag type of material. It may be better than the old paper type, or they would not have changed over? At least it would not separate after many years, and it would be easy to see through when cutting it out.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

just go to a auto parts store all kinds there

wcmorrison

My Feedback: (2)

The rear cover is not that critical regarding spacing, sealing yes. I would clean it up and try some RTV gasket material. It is form in place stuff but should do the job for you. May not be beautiful but the real key is to provide a seal. It is not like a shim used in the head.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

All good ideas... thanks! Any others????

Bob

blw

My Feedback: (3)

We used manilla folders for gaskets on everything when I was in the service.

1QwkSport2.5r

I've found 20lb Xerox paper doesn't work as well. Thicker paper (30lb and heavier) works best if you want to use paper gaskets. Otherwise I've used RTV silicone with great results too. Ultra copper, ultra black, and high temp red all work. The stuff that's sensor safe should not contain acetic acid (vinegar) and won't cause any rust/corrosion while curing. If it smells like vinegar, don't use it.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the note on the paper weight. I was curious about that. It seems to me that gasket paper is somehow reinforced to prevent it from tearing and turning to mush the moment that oil/fuel hits it. I know that I can get 1/64" thick at TH but I think that's too much.

Thanks 1QwkSport2.5r

Bob

1QwkSport2.5r

You would want to use as thin of paper as necessary to seal. If you use too thick of material on say a backplate, the crankcase volume may increase enough to throw the volume off enough to make the crankcase not pressurize enough for proper air/fuel transfer and make the engine run weird/poorly. In my non-technical thought process, less is more in this case I think.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

...Exactly what I was thinking, hence my reason for not using that 1/64" material....

Thanks,

Bob

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOoHm4ZXqTU

mike31

My Feedback: (67)

Most Good auto parts stores will possibly have what is known as "onion skin" gasket material. Very thin and gas/oil/fuel proof.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Flycatch, thanks for that vid... I presume that the aluminum tape that he's referring to is an auto parts item????

Mike31, I'd never heard of something like onion skin, though I'm well acquainted with several auto parts stores... I'll give that a try. Thanks!!

Bob

jeffie8696

Some silicone, a light smear not a thick bead. Works fine, its cheap and its easier than cutting out a gasket

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

How 'bout Tyvek? Anyone ever tried that? It may be too thin, but dang that stuff is tough! Ever tried to tear a tyvek envelope? You know the ones like Fedex uses? You can buy shipping envelopes at Walmart or I guess you can get free ones at the P.O., Fedex or UPS.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Plastic shim stock sold at any machine shop supply comes in as thin as .001. Its impervious to most fuel/oil substances.

Dennis

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks,

I hadn't thought about the plastic shim stock or the Tyvek... both great ideas, I think....

Bob

1QwkSport2.5r

I'd be using silicone RTV if I already had it on-hand. Cutting gaskets out of any material sucks and takes time. I have a 2yr old, so time is a premium in my house.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Is that really a problem to worry about? I never paid attention to it. Then, I've only used it on small parts.

1QwkSport2.5r

Well, some claim the acetic acid given off during curing can cause corrosion and rust formation. I've never concerned myself with it specifically, but then again most of the time when I use RTV silicone I'm using it for automotive parts and I always get the sensor safe stuff. I've found the sensor safe stuff to dry a bit firmer than typical silicone sealants and because of that I feel more secure that it won't leak later. Maybe it's all unfounded, but I've never had an issue using the methods I've described here. I'll also mention that I've cut gaskets out of various kinds of paper and they always leak. The engines I've used silicone alone or silicone and paper together have never leaked out of the gaskets. Being not of any technical prowess, I probably did it wrong.

At the end of the day, do what you know works.

By the way, good to see you around, Barry!