antispad, glad you liked it. Let me know if you'd like more pictures. The trickiest part (if you could even call it that) is the miter cut on the 4 legs, otherwise everything else is simple straight cuts. I use 3" or 3-1/2" drywall screws all around.

Yes, the Irvine .53 is my latest acquisition and is one nice powerplant. Small complaint about the muffler, though. The extension part doesn't fit very tightly and a lot of oil oozes out of the joint while the engine is running.

I have an Irvine 53 also. I took apart the muffler and reassembled it with red high-temp silicone in the joints. It stops the leaks.

I'll email if I need more pictures.

Thanks!

One of our stands. Milled from 7075 aluminum.

Another view .Hobbsy ,this is the muffler we will be sending to you. We haven't forgotten.

This is a view of the retainer roll pin. There is one on each side. It is placed to prevent a loose clamp from allowing the engine to slip from the stand easily. The pin fits into a clearance hole in the clamp plate and is a drive fit in the stand block.

Now that's an engine stand!

Volfy

I do the same thing for my engines. Just find a scrap peice of wood. Get some wood screws, cut out the wood to fit the engine and screw in the wood screws and strap it down to something heavy. Works fine

Steven, I genuinely believe the best engine stand is a scrap pile of 2x lumber. I just helped a friend of mine run in an OS Wankel rotary - WOW, what a jewel of an engine!!! It took us probably 25 minutes to improvise the setup.

Let's see a commercial engine stand do that.

Here's another look. We had to hook up a remote glow system because of the location of the plug.