jessiej

I recently retrieved a K&B Greenhead .35 and two Fox .35s that had been stored in my mother's basement since I joined the Marines in 1965. The engines had been oiled with Rislone, wrapped in an old T-shirt and left in the (very)damp basement. There was rust on the external surfaces of the prop nuts and washers but no internal rust and all the engines turned freely.

By the same token I have stored engines run on 100% castor and they never rust, but after long term storage the oil congeals and the engine must be heated to rotate.

I have never used WD-40 on engines, but at one time used it on guns. After a period of time the WD-40 turns "gummy". Now I use it only as a solvent, but not as a lubricant or preservative.

In any event I would not loose a great deal of sleep over the type of oil used. Many satisfactory oils are much less expensive than the commercial after run oils. Just be sure there are no non-metal parts that will be adversely affected by whatever you use.

jess

CCRC1

My Feedback: (13)

I agree about WD-40. The only thing I use it for is to remove sticky residue left from price tags and labels. It really works good for that.
Hey race! I like your tip for Italian Engines, but what do you recommend for my German and Japanese power plants?

RaceCity

For German engines? Fat from a nice plate of pomme frites is excellent.

For Japanese? A soy based formula of Kikkoman Lite, and Kirin Beer (50/50) has
been great.

<G>

hackken

I have used various after run oils for years, but I find that ordinary 5-30 or 10-30 car engine oil works as good or better than anything else I have used. It is easily available and the price is right.

Oldie

If you are running high compression two strokes, and flip the prop fourteen times after loading the engine with after run oil to distribute the oil into all the parts of the engine, be advised that you can get some spontaneous ignition if the engine diesels. Over a period of 10 years I had this happen twice and received a healthy whack on the hand each time.

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

So I should flip the propeller 15 times then to prevent that

Born to Fly

How is that possible ? The flash point of after run oil is far above that temp. Just very puzzled.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Born, are you sure that wasn't an unhealthy whack?

jessiej

[How is that possible ? The flash point of after run oil is far above that temp. Just very puzzled.]

I don't know how it happens, but I know the same thing can happen in air rifles if oil is left in the bore. When this happens the rifle is often seriously damaged.

Sport_Pilot

The flash point is the temperature that stationaryfuel will vaporize in enough concentration to ignite. If agitated it can burn much colder that that. Auto deisel fuel's flash piont is well above 100 degrees, yet with the aid of glow plugs will start well below 0 degrees F.

ShoestringRacer

here is even more after run oil info:


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_13...tm.htm#1320054

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The flash point is the temperature that stationaryfuel will vaporize in enough concentration to ignite.

When 60 degree air is compressed to 363 lbs. per square inch it generates approximately 1000 degrees of temperature but only while it is being compressed. I learned this from the University of Nebraska farm tractor test booklet back in the 70s. In particular they were referring to a small Case 530 Diesel tractor that had 485 lbs of compression pressure. The Cases did not have glow plugs in the cylinder but had a large one in the intake manifold. If you used ether on a cold day you might find the air cleaner over at the neighbors. I have never used WD40 in rc engines and haven't had the pleasure of one self igniting.

Sport_Pilot

Good point Hobbsy, the compression of even our glow engines will bring the temp above flash point. But just like the old oil torches of past when you agitate or atomize fuel you can ignite it well below the flash point.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

3 in 1 is not acceptable as a firearm lubricant. I would venture to guess it is not good for small engines either.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

I was using some 3-in-one yesterday, in a Rossi .45....

....it smells just like gun oil....[sm=stupid.gif]

Sport_Pilot

I think lots of gun oil is repackaged 3 in one.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

Yep....I just checked....not very scientific, but they smell the same for sure.
They look pretty much the same too....the 3-in-1 is a shade darker...but
I've had this can for a least 20 years....same viscosity (eyeballed). The
one on the right is Outers gun oil.

The flash bleaches out the color, but they still look the same. Remember
the old "sewing machine oil" ? ....pretty sure the same stuff. Nifty marketing,
you have 3 cans of oil in the house....all the same....and not cheap....

I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff they use on model electric train motors.

mikedsilva

i am new to this game of after run oil.

Everyone seems to say that you inject 'after run oil' of some description.

How about just injecting some straight coolpower and circulating it around the motor?

is that enough protection for a couple of weeks?

mike

impactiq

My Feedback: (57)

The fuel we use condenses water when left opened. I would not use this method at all do to this very reason. As far as putting in after run oil goes.... A few drops down the carb.. hit the starter for a few seconds(glow ignitor off).. wala! your engine is oiled.

rc-mike

What about hydraulic fluid for after run oil? Just got to thinking it protects metal from rust and is pretty thick, but doesn't gum up. Not that I was going to use it, just wondering if it would work.

Rodney

Two good way to ruin an engine 1ut WD40 in it and leave it set awhile or 2: use 3in1 oil and store for an extended time.

Motorboy

I use always ownmixed after run oil of 9 parts kerosene and 1 part motoroil. It prevent well and make easy start each time.

Before i used 3 in one oil recommended of COX engine instruction, now the oil are not in sale in Norway.

Jens Eirik

Ernie Misner

An aersol can of outboard motor fogging oil works great too. I have been buying a CRC product for $3.99. The pressure is great for injecting into 4 stroke crankcases and it formulated specifically for engine storage. If not for that and it's convenience, I would stick with MMO air tool oil.

Ernie

AMB

Motor boys formula a good one kero great anti rust stuff also marvel mystery oil/ATF 50/50 which goes in my 4 strks the 2 strk diesels
get nothing and all fine. residual kero and oil no nitro or alcohol to cause problems

Sport_Pilot

Do you really think a few drops is coating everything inside the engine? The largest benifit of your method is that you are drying out any remaining fuel.