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Old 12-17-2019, 04:33 PM
  #44326  
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You guys are a riot!

Castor makes a great assembly lube for our little toy engines, why use anything else?
Old 12-17-2019, 08:03 PM
  #44327  
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I have been told that KY is the only thing that will remove diesel fuel from your skin, my wife's friend's X keeps a box of it in his garage.

wait a minute, he was cheating on her

Jim
Old 12-17-2019, 08:19 PM
  #44328  
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Makes you wonder what was going on in his garage!
Old 12-17-2019, 08:21 PM
  #44329  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Makes you wonder what was going on in his garage!
well, he is a logger

Jim
Old 12-18-2019, 03:50 AM
  #44330  
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Default FG21 start up

Fired up my newly acquired FG21 yesterday. It's a super low run time unit but had a bad ignition module. I bought an RcExl 6v-14,4v V-02 module for it and backed off the static timing to 28° btdc from where it was set (40° btdc). IIRC the Saito branded RcExl module was set up for static timing to be set at 40° btdc. RcExl recommends 28°-30° for this new V-02 module. The spark is hot, whitish-blue. Used 20:1 mix of 89 octane gas and Stihl Ultra.

The engine ran OK but took like 20 flips to get fuel to the dry carb. Idle was fairly solid at 2200, mid range was wandering a bit, peak was only 8150 with a Xoar 15x8. Benchmark for this engine is 8800 with an apc 15x8. May need a little more run time but did start up with one flip almost every time after intial start up.

I'll run another tank or two through it and then start advancing the static timing a degree at a time until it peaks rpm, then retard it a little if it runs too hot.

Just an extra note on this newer V-02 RcExl module, it has a snappier audible spark and it's definitely a hot spark but, and a big but, it will not spark unless the magnet is brought past the hall sensor fairly quickly. This makes setting the static timing a little difficult.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 12-18-2019 at 05:01 AM.
Old 12-18-2019, 05:27 AM
  #44331  
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I had to re-register after the changes, am now the User Name you see, with the CHI unit you can creep past the sensor and it will spark. You're right, the RinkyDinXL unit has not made me a fan yet. Remember that retarding the timing makes engines run hotter than advanced. Later timing means that the combustion process is exposed to more naked cylinder wall.
Old 12-18-2019, 05:33 AM
  #44332  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
I had to re-register after the changes, am now the User Name you see..........
Dave?
Old 12-18-2019, 05:37 AM
  #44333  
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Yes sir, it's me, Barracuda Hockey is going help me get squared away, right now I can't even post pictures.
Old 12-18-2019, 05:53 AM
  #44334  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
I had to re-register after the changes, am now the User Name you see, with the CHI unit you can creep past the sensor and it will spark. You're right, the RinkyDinXL unit has not made me a fan yet. Remember that retarding the timing makes engines run hotter than advanced. Later timing means that the combustion process is exposed to more naked cylinder wall.
Any chance the Mods can fix it Hobbsy? I friended you in case that would help your status.

Mike
Old 12-18-2019, 05:56 AM
  #44335  
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I suspect they can, thanks for the friendship. It feels strange having 2 posts and 1 friend.
Old 12-18-2019, 05:56 AM
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Yes Dave, that was a typo, not enough coffee yet.

Should have read "unless it runs too hot". Retarding the timing off of peak power timing allows for a little leeway on the hsn setting and engine temp before pre-detonation occurs and yes, you don't want to retard enough to cause excessive heat.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 12-18-2019 at 05:58 AM.
Old 12-18-2019, 05:56 AM
  #44337  
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I'm sure we will get it straight.
Old 12-18-2019, 06:50 AM
  #44338  
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Thankyou Andy
Old 12-18-2019, 08:14 AM
  #44339  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Yes Dave, that was a typo, not enough coffee yet.

Should have read "unless it runs too hot". Retarding the timing off of peak power timing allows for a little leeway on the hsn setting and engine temp before pre-detonation occurs and yes, you don't want to retard enough to cause excessive heat.
Actually, in four strokes, retarded timing tends to increase operating temps more often than not. In fact, it is a leading cause of burnt valves.
Old 12-18-2019, 07:33 PM
  #44340  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
I had to re-register after the changes, am now the User Name you see, with the CHI unit you can creep past the sensor and it will spark. You're right, the RinkyDinXL unit has not made me a fan yet. Remember that retarding the timing makes engines run hotter than advanced. Later timing means that the combustion process is exposed to more naked cylinder wall.
Dave, I had to just type in my user name and password to make it work for me

Jim

Last edited by the Wasp; 12-18-2019 at 07:45 PM.
Old 12-18-2019, 07:44 PM
  #44341  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Fired up my newly acquired FG21 yesterday. It's a super low run time unit but had a bad ignition module. I bought an RcExl 6v-14,4v V-02 module for it and backed off the static timing to 28° btdc from where it was set (40° btdc). IIRC the Saito branded RcExl module was set up for static timing to be set at 40° btdc. RcExl recommends 28°-30° for this new V-02 module. The spark is hot, whitish-blue. Used 20:1 mix of 89 octane gas and Stihl Ultra.

The engine ran OK but took like 20 flips to get fuel to the dry carb. Idle was fairly solid at 2200, mid range was wandering a bit, peak was only 8150 with a Xoar 15x8. Benchmark for this engine is 8800 with an apc 15x8. May need a little more run time but did start up with one flip almost every time after intial start up.

I'll run another tank or two through it and then start advancing the static timing a degree at a time until it peaks rpm, then retard it a little if it runs too hot.

Just an extra note on this newer V-02 RcExl module, it has a snappier audible spark and it's definitely a hot spark but, and a big but, it will not spark unless the magnet is brought past the hall sensor fairly quickly. This makes setting the static timing a little difficult.
I don't think your engine will turn the same RPM with the Xoar 15X8 as it will with the APC 15X8, the Xoar's pull much more air than the APCs do, as I found. but we will see I guess

here is my findings on that Magnum 180 4St

APC 17X8W...... 8800
Xoar 17X8....... 8200
Xoar 17X6........8600


Jim

Last edited by the Wasp; 12-18-2019 at 07:47 PM.
Old 12-19-2019, 04:22 AM
  #44342  
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There is no danger of me selling the 60 twin, nor any of the gifted to me engines.
Old 12-19-2019, 05:14 AM
  #44343  
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Same here, anything gifted to me gets paid forward, never sold. This sumner I set up a new club member with a complete RTF trainer from items gifted to me. I also set up a 4 star for him to fly next summer when he is ready for it.

Hey, I'm lonely out there flying by myself so whatever it takes! Still no lack of grumpy old men sitting in lawn chairs out there though.
Old 12-19-2019, 05:25 AM
  #44344  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
There is no danger of me selling the 60 twin, nor any of the gifted to me engines.
Same here! I receive a gift it leaves as a gift. If I have something I'm not using and I can give it to someone trying to get started in the hobby its Christmas time no matter what the calendar says.
Old 12-19-2019, 10:32 AM
  #44345  
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Speaking of gifts thanks to Jim I now have a Saito .82 in possession and she is a beauty! For Christmas my oldest son bought me a spinner from Sarik Hobbies in the UK to fit a 69" Brian Taylor Spitfire 1a. Looking at the plans the Spit calls for a .70 to .80 4 cycle (Class act he didn't even mention a 2 cycle engine.) so that gave me ideas. The spinner has been around a while the label taped to it still says Traplet on it and it definitely will need polishing. The spinner set came with a 97 mm diameter back plate, 75 mm tall cone, a 14" hex nut (Measuring 1 3/8" long or 35 mm if you prefer), and a 50 mm countersunk screw in need of having the threads chased. Now that I have bored you to tears, has anyone here put a scale spinner on a Saito .82 before? I was thinking maybe a ready made adapter like a TruTurn might work, any suggestions guys?
Old 12-19-2019, 10:49 AM
  #44346  
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I could use one of those glow plug connectors. Went to put the remote ignition harness on the YS in my Liberty Sport, but the head is too tall for it to grip the GP.



Old 12-19-2019, 10:58 AM
  #44347  
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Have you tried slipping the boot off?

Weird I have to go to advance to post anything. Problem started yesterday.
Old 12-19-2019, 11:26 AM
  #44348  
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Yeah, it wont work since the GP sits below the lip of the head. Those that are used on that twin will work though, just wondering if those are available without buying an OBG.
Old 12-19-2019, 11:47 AM
  #44349  
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If I knew I would tell you.
Old 12-19-2019, 02:56 PM
  #44350  
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I use the Sullivan M056 glow extender on my cowled engines. They are a little high priced but I have yet to have one fail or come loose.


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