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Old 08-22-2009, 08:37 PM
  #15726  
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ORIGINAL: I-fly-any-and-all

ha ha i only fly o.s. ye poop d!cks!!!!!
Troll
Old 08-22-2009, 08:50 PM
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What props are you running on those 100's?

L.
Old 08-23-2009, 02:05 AM
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ORIGINAL: Cherokee Flyer

What props are you running on those 100's?

L.
15 X 6 APC on the 100s.
Old 08-23-2009, 05:50 AM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


ORIGINAL: GaGeeBees

ORIGINAL: I-fly-any-and-all

ha ha i only fly o.s. ye poop d!cks!!!!!
Troll
Hi gaagee he can't be a troll look at his name..says he will f%ly any and all there..nope your mistaken.This man's a prostitute!
Old 08-23-2009, 01:10 PM
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Thanks, just got one, they run nice!!

L.
Old 08-23-2009, 04:36 PM
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ORIGINAL: Cherokee Flyer

Thanks, just got one, they run nice!!

L.
You will like it and they are miserly on fuel as well. Mine start and run great inverted, without on-board glow, and with only muffler pressure, as well, as all my Saitos do.
Old 08-23-2009, 08:08 PM
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I have all the parts for my Saito 180 repair purchased on E bay. Changed the cam shaft, left the original bearings in place as they seem fine, carburator repaired with a new spray bar assembly and a new high speed needle valve and a new manifold as the original was cracked. , but I am not sure if i got the timing dead on. Lined up the dot on the cam gear with the piston on Top Dead Center but am not sure if it moved ? Is there any way to keep the cam gear from moving. For smaller engines there is a suggestion that a tool can be made to keep it from moving. Not sure this would work with this engine.

Can anyone help with the lining up of the Cam gear?

Kevin
Old 08-23-2009, 08:40 PM
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Stick a knife or razor blade into the cam gear teeth against the side of the cam box to hold the cam still

You can check the timing on an assembled engine by finding top dead center on the compression stroke.

The turn the prop 360 degrees and you should be able to blow through the muffler and out the open carburetor
Old 08-23-2009, 10:38 PM
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My Saito 125 is very inconsistent with its peak rpm during flight. Occasionally while making a full throttle pass, I can tell it is really revving like it should and the prop makes a beautiful high pitched whine as it flys by. But most of the time, full throttle passes are slower and quieter. The performance is still acceptable, mind you, but it just isnt hitting that peak rpm. My 125 is mounted inverted with a pitts muffler, a Perry oscillating pump and the fuel tank at the CG. I'm running a 16x6 master air screw K series prop, and the engine has about 3.5 gallons of fuel through it. I've never seen more than about 8500 rpm on the ground according to my tach. I've tried both 15% and 30% cool power fuel and dont notice any difference between the two. The inconsistencies in peak rpm will occur during the same flight, so obviously the needle settings, etc, etc are all the same when it will rev up vs when it wont. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Old 08-23-2009, 10:43 PM
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How's the cooling on your Saito 125? Hot engines are not very happy.
Old 08-23-2009, 10:50 PM
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Well, The last 3 or 4 flights I've been flying it with the cowling removed, just so I can see the fuel lines, etc and make adjustments easier. Yesterday it was only about 74 degrees here where I live. The plane is a Great Planes Venus II.
Old 08-23-2009, 11:53 PM
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I would be looking for air bubbles coming from the tank.

Try a filter clunk
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXD741&P=7

This next filter is listed with the Saito FG-36. There will be no air bubbles to some through it. It will suck a tank out dry and when the fuel is gone that is it. There will be no air bubbles from vibration.
It is actually a Walbro part

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAIG36154

It is pretty nuch the same as those in a chain saw tank

<div id="prodImages"></div>

Old 08-24-2009, 12:02 AM
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Have you adjusted your valves at all? I've found that after break in and a few gallons afterword that my valves could use some adjustment on my Saitos, understandably if the valves were out of adjustment it should still give consistent runs. Also, with the Perry VP20 pump you should only need to richen 100 - 150 RPM below from peak, with my experience. The pump can be a bit tricky to set up, too. And if you can bypass it, readust your needles and test, it my be worth it.

My 2 cents...

Phil
Old 08-24-2009, 12:09 AM
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Lately I've been flying a Twist 60 with a Saito 125 a considerable amount. APC 16 X 6 and no pump. Very consistent runs
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Old 08-24-2009, 06:06 AM
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If you are running an inline fuel filter to the engine you could try a flight without it.
Old 08-24-2009, 07:51 AM
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Oh, I have 3 Satio 100's, but was still trying to find out what to replace my Graupner props with. Thanks for the prop data.

L.
Old 08-24-2009, 08:44 AM
  #15742  
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Just curious, Cherokee Flyer, why do you want to replace the Graupner props?


Ed Cregger
Old 08-24-2009, 10:14 AM
  #15743  
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AircamperAce- you are member #656
Old 08-24-2009, 03:58 PM
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I was curious about that as well, I fly mine with a Graupner 14x7 which it turns about 9,600 with a TurboHeader.
Old 08-25-2009, 07:20 AM
  #15745  
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Because they throw blades in the air. I was running 14/7's but the US supplier told me they should not be run on a Saito 100. IMHO the ones that failed had issues with manufacture.

As you know when you lose a blade while running it is quite hard on the airplane!!

L.
Old 08-25-2009, 07:29 AM
  #15746  
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What Hobby Lobby had to say:


I found the information I mentioned earlier. Here it is:

"Please note

When used in conjunction with large and very powerful engines the ultimate load factor of SUPER NYLON propellers may be reached or even exceeded. In cases like these wooden propellers should preferably be used. The rotational speed, that is the velocity of the airscrew tip in the plane of rotation, provides some information on the limiting factor. The rotational speed must not exceed 180 m/sec. Maximum airscrew rpm are then governed by the diameter of the propeller. Max. revolutions can be calculated using the following formula: Constant (includes safe value) 3438 divide by diameter of prop (in meters). Taking a 28 cm diam. propeller the formula reads: 3438/0.28 = 12279 rpm. The actual ultimate load depends on several other factors in addition to rotational speed though, such as engine vibrations and propeller warping as a result of improper installation, to name but a few, which can affect the ultimate load factor negatively. Propellers should be mounted perfectly centered on the prop shaft and with a minimum of play. If necessary install a propeller adapter of No. 198. In order to preserve the good physical properties of SUPER NYLON propellers, in particular their strength, their water contents of approx. 2 - 3% must stay trapped in the material. For that reason they should not be stored in dry rooms or near warm heating units. A lack of water contents can be compensated either by putting the propeller in boiling water for a short while or by submerging it in water at ambient temperature for a couple of days. Be sure to abide by the safety guidelines concerning
rotating propellers! Always remain clear of the propeller arc! Do not ever use a damaged propeller!"

So for your application, here is the formula for a 14x7 prop and a static rpm of 9150.

Design Constant divided by prop length in meters=Max rpm of prop

3438/0.36 = 9550 max rpm for prop

So, since your prop most likely will increase well over a 400rpm (9550-9150=400) during flight, you are exceeding the max design loads of the propeller.

Graupner's blue sheet that is included in the box suggests you use a wood prop. I would guess that a four stroke naturally causes excessive firing pulses which is causing your props to fail at the hub. Also, if you are flying aerobatics or 3D, that would also cause hub failures. I wouldn't use the replacement prop if I were you.

I hope that helps.

Chris
Old 08-25-2009, 08:09 PM
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This wasn't a Saito or Graupner incident but thought I'd show an example of what can happen when you throw a prop blade. This happened on the takeoff run at full throttle just as I was ready to feed it some elevator. G-38 with 20x8 Master Airscrew Classic.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:19 PM
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I posted earlyer, on page 617 I think, about my 125 weird noise issue, I checked the mount as suggested and it is completely secure, wondering if valves that needed adjusting would make a sound?

Thanks
michael
Old 08-25-2009, 08:48 PM
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i have just completed a Power Point  presentation with photographs of my repair of the Saito 180 and would like to get a "expert opinion"  before I post it to U Tube. I found it so hard to get the information on this repair that I thought I would do this in the hope that some other poor feller might have an easier time. How can I send this to you if any of you experts are interested in helping out the next guy?<div>
</div><div>Kevin</div>
Old 08-26-2009, 08:33 PM
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Thx Blw.

All,

Need advice mounting a new 4 stroke.... I am re-powering my GP Super Sportster 40 with a Saito 56. I am using the stock GP universal black plastic motor mount, and tapping 4-40 holes in it per the ARFs instructions, is this adequate or do I need longer screws and nylon lock nuts? I had several flights on it with an OS 46fx mounted this way. I always expected to find it loose after a flight but never did, it seemed ok.

Thanks, Ryan

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