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Old 07-29-2009, 09:35 PM
  #15476  
PacificNWSkyPilot
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Saito doesn't even list a 10 X 4 for that motor in their chart, 10 X 7 only, or 10.5 X 6 and up.

You've got a typo.

Jim
Old 07-29-2009, 09:43 PM
  #15477  
w8ye
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You cannot believe everything you read on the net especially from Horizon and Tower

11 X 4 would be more like it for the 40a Benchmark Prop:11x5 APC @ 10,600

The 30 would turn a 10 X 4 pretty fast.

I see where Horizon says that . . .


FA-40A Stroke Engine

Key Features

    [*]10 X 4 prop at 10,500 rpm[*]Smaller case design for lighter weight[*]Nearly the same case size as a .30, but packs more power[/list]


Old 07-29-2009, 11:10 PM
  #15478  
mike109
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G'day

I have had three brand new Saitos (56, 72 and 100) suddenly develop "no compression syndrome". In each case a valve was not quite closing. The cure in each case was put some lubricant round the valve stems and then to remove the plug and turn the engine over by hand and then with the electric starter. Since then, they have been totally reliable except for when the carby fell off the 56 recently. This particular engine has had a violent life and has a new backplate. Twice. I must have not quite tightened the carby mount properly last time. Mind you, it was still running with the carby flapping in the breeze just held on by the friction of the O ring, the fuel tube and the throttle linkage.

Gee I love my Saitos (13 at the last count). But I have just bought a Laser 100. What a brick. It is beautifully made and rather heavy but this will suit the plane I am putting it in. Looks like it was carved out of granite.

Interestingly, Laser recommended lubricating their engines through the vent with "SAE 30 motor oil or two stroke motor oil". They recommend this be done when the engine is new and then every three hours running. They specifically recommend against the use of WD40 and also multigrade oils as the additives in them could interact with the additives in the synthetic oils we use in fuels. They also recommend the use of synthetic oils but do state that " (synthetic oil) will not withstand overheating and may not protect was well against corrosion. 1 - 2% Castor oil added to synthetic oil can give additional protection against corrosion and seizure." They recommend 15% total oil in their engines and up to 12.5% nitromethane may be used though none is needed except perhaps in very cold conditions as methanol will not vaporise at temperatures close to freezing. They suggest that 5% nitro or petrol (gas) may be used in freezing conditions to aid starting.
Old 07-30-2009, 06:46 AM
  #15479  
Hobbsy
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Mike my Saito .30 has spent most of its life on a Sig LT25, I use a Graupner 10x5.5 and a 10x6 depending on the runway grass length. In tall grass the 10x5.5 will litterally jerk the LT25 off the ground with very little ground run. Using the 10x6 the LT 25 will fly at just above idle.
Old 07-30-2009, 06:54 AM
  #15480  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

L, in my case, absolute peak is highest obtainable rpm which is usually unsteady and wanders up and down a little so I richen down one click which is about 50 rpm. It will run rock steady there. Any time you see me post rpm data it will be about 50 rpm off the unsteady peak.

PS, you're correct about richening it down after setting the LS needle.
Thanks for explaining it that way
Old 07-30-2009, 07:17 AM
  #15481  
mike109
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G'day Dave

I have a Saito 30 too. I originally had it in a Phoenix Tiger Moth for which a 40 is recommended. A Hobby shop owner said he flew his with a 30 and so I bought one. He was right. It would fly the TM but only just with a Bolly 10.5 x 5. I suspect it was very close to "scale" power but when it was a bit breezy, there was nothing in reserve so I have since replaced it with an OS FS40 but I have not yet flown it but I suspect that the old OS will not be any better than the little Saito. I have a Saito 40 in a Balsa USA Taube and I might just try that in the TM. The Taube is a real handful to fly without ailerons. To get it to turn requires that the rudder be held all the way through the turn. It is also much better flown slowly than fast.

The 30 is now in a Dynaflite Butterfly which I am sure it will fly very easily. I had an OS FS26 in it until I put the FA30 in but the weather has not yet been right to give it a try.

My Sig LT25 is a bit of a beast. It was built from a kit and I covered the fuse with Sig Koverall as an experiment. I then doped it with Sig coloured dope in Clipped Wing Cub Blue which looks really nice. The wing is covered in Solafilm as is the rest of the model (red). It has had lots of minor prangs while teaching others to land. The wing tips have been rebuilt countless times and the fuse is less than pristine. Originally I flew it with an Enya 25 which flew it really well. I then sold it to a friend I was teaching. We used a Magnum 30 FS initially which was more than powerful enough but we needed to use the Magnum in another model so a Leo 46 replaced it. This made it way over powered but on FAI fuel and half throttle it flew really well. An OS 46LA found its way in for a while but recently I swapped it back and it is resting in my shed at the moment I may just put my PAW 35 in it for fun and see how that goes.
Old 07-30-2009, 09:30 AM
  #15482  
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Mike109- are you a Saito club member yet?
Old 07-30-2009, 11:07 AM
  #15483  
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Hi Guys, HELP PLEASE! in short i have a 4s saito 100 that on take-off at ten feet off the runway, i get a flameout. this saito has never done that before. it's on my new BH t-28 trojan and my fuel is wildcat 15 heli. the prop is a master airscrew 13/6. i have a hangar 9 fuel tank with new lines to my remote fueler. no leaks or pin holes. fyi i did change the piston rod 2months ago. all seems well with that. i have a os F type glow plug. needle bar is out 2 full turns. my gallon of fuel is new this year. i broke the piston rod in flight last year, but now saito sells a better[heavyier] made one. open to any ideas you guys may have. also give me a member # if you can for this elite club. p.s my saito 150 is going strong! thanks don "airboss"
Old 07-30-2009, 11:21 AM
  #15484  
mike early
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Do you gentlemen think a 4oz tank would yield a 10 minute flight with a properly tuned FA-40a?
Old 07-30-2009, 11:25 AM
  #15485  
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ORIGINAL: airboss45

Hi Guys, HELP PLEASE! in short i have a 4s saito 100 that on take-off at ten feet off the runway, i get a flameout. this saito has never done that before. it's on my new BH t-28 trojan and my fuel is wildcat 15 heli. the prop is a master airscrew 13/6. i have a hangar 9 fuel tank with new lines to my remote fueler. no leaks or pin holes. fyi i did change the piston rod 2months ago. all seems well with that. i have a os F type glow plug. needle bar is out 2 full turns. my gallon of fuel is new this year. i broke the piston rod in flight last year, but now saito sells a better[heavyier] made one. open to any ideas you guys may have. also give me a member # if you can for this elite club. p.s my saito 150 is going strong! thanks don "airboss"
A 13 X 6 two blade is not near enough prop for a 100. It needs a minimum of a 13 X 8 prop

You may have tank trouble with the fuel pick up clunk stuck in the front of the tank

Hold the nose of the plane up while on the ground and see if your engine quits

Try some different fuel

Old 07-30-2009, 11:25 AM
  #15486  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: mike early

Do you gentlemen think a 4oz tank would yield a 10 minute flight with a properly tuned FA-40a?
A 4 oz will not even give you 10 min on a 30

Old 07-30-2009, 12:29 PM
  #15487  
mike early
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I reckon I'll go SIX ounces! I only fly 6 to 8 minutes...
Old 07-30-2009, 03:46 PM
  #15488  
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I have an 8oz tank on my 30,gives comfortable 10 minute flights
Old 07-30-2009, 04:37 PM
  #15489  
barndawg77
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I would have some saito engines...if I could afford them!
A fellow flyer has a 1.80 on his twist 150 and it will 3d like hell, flys like a pylon racer at WOT.
Old 07-30-2009, 07:06 PM
  #15490  
charlie1960
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Ive had that happen as well, would run like hell for about 2 minutes then just shut off.....
dont know what made me do it, but i put in a fresh glow plug. It fixed it.
dont know why, dont know how, just know it did.

My 100 swings a 14x8 with authority
Old 07-31-2009, 12:32 AM
  #15491  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: w8ye


ORIGINAL: mike early

Do you gentlemen think a 4oz tank would yield a 10 minute flight with a properly tuned FA-40a?
A 4 oz will not even give you 10 min on a 30

A four ounce tank would easily provide ten minutes of flying time at WOT if used with an OS FS-30. Yes, I know that this is the Saito forum, but it might be good to consider this factor when choosing engines for a particular application. I wouldn't be surprised if the Sanye .30 four-stroke would perform similarly to the OS FS-30.

I have heard that the Saito FA-30 four-stroke engine provides much more power than the OS and Sanye clones. Can anyone confirm this? I have a LOT of Saito engines, but I missed out on the .30 and .40 versions. TIA


Ed Cregger
Old 07-31-2009, 04:02 AM
  #15492  
w8ye
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I had a OS 26 for several years and it would run about 8 min full throttle on 4 oz fuel. I had to change to a 6 oz tank. No more power than the 26 had, it had to be run rull throttle all the time. It seemed to like the APC 10 X 5 better.

My Magnum 30 was more powerful than the 26. My Saito 30's are far better engines though for you can break a Saito 30 in on a 10 X 6 and it will not get hot.

The Saito 40's have noticeably more power than the Saito 30. The Saito 40 is a 11 X 6 engine. I don't have one but 3 friends do.
Old 07-31-2009, 08:01 AM
  #15493  
mike early
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I just ordered a Saito 40. only 169 dollars. seems like a steal compared to Magnum and OS Engines of similar sizes....

I will put the engine on 480-.25 size electric planes and have fun.

Do the saito aluminum mounts weigh more than regular glass-filled nylon mounts?
Old 07-31-2009, 08:16 AM
  #15494  
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Wow that's cheap,i paid 310 aus for my 30.It will rip an ma 10x6 and it can ground run at 11400.You can lean it out on an 8oz tank and fly 15 minutes easy.It is mounted in a large 5 foot wingspan high wing rainbow and accelerates quickly.
Old 07-31-2009, 09:13 AM
  #15495  
mike early
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Yes, 169 is pretty cheap. The Control Line version cost 224 dollars. I bought one in case they intend to raise the price. Or rather before they do....
The OS 40 cost 199. And that's without the alpha designation that costs 50 bucks or so...
It only cost 30 more dollars than the Magnum 30 and it has three times the warranty and a lot more power to boot.


edit: It appears these prices have actually come down. They used to be 229. I guess they've released so many engines they need to spread the prices evenly over the entire line.
At any rate, the FA-40a is a better deal now than ever before...
Old 07-31-2009, 06:13 PM
  #15496  
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I've got an OS .26 that routinely runs for 15+ minutes on a 4 ounce tank. With throttle management I've flown for over 20 mins.
Old 07-31-2009, 09:21 PM
  #15497  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: mike early

I just ordered a Saito 40. only 169 dollars. seems like a steal compared to Magnum and OS Engines of similar sizes....

I will put the engine on 480-.25 size electric planes and have fun.

Do the saito aluminum mounts weigh more than regular glass-filled nylon mounts?
Very much so

Old 08-01-2009, 08:11 AM
  #15498  
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Has anyone done a thread about replacing the bearings in a .91 Saito? I have two engines I need to change.

I have never done this before and do not want to attempt with out some guidence.

Thank you in advance.

Trey
Old 08-01-2009, 08:44 AM
  #15499  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Airboss45,

If W8YE's idea didn't work, I had a thought... Whatis the pickup line like? Is it that very thin-walled fuel line? I am thinking that the line could be stretching and pinching off during takeoff, killing the fuel flow. You mentioned that the tank came from H9 and the ones I've received seem to have a very thin wall. A thicker-walled tubing would fix that, if that's the problem.

Just my $.02

Bob
Old 08-01-2009, 11:19 PM
  #15500  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

How many turns out from the stock setting for the low end are you running for an 82? Stock setting is flush with the plastic control arm correct? I have mine about 2.5-3 full turns in and still runs bad on the low end, but transitions to high end real well. I have had about a gallon and a half through it, but the low end is still 2500 rpm or more, anything less and it does. I am running 15% fuel and an OS F plug. Thoughts?


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