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Is that a Senior Telemaster? If so I'd like to see more detail pictures of it.
I have a Telemaster Electric ARF (red 40 size) that I stripped the battery box and electric motor mount out and I want to put a Saito 56 in it.
I was wondering about the balance and I sorta planned to move the engine back about 1/2".
I put wires inside the push rod tubes and plan to bolt the wing on.
[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/22623/Fd92646.jpg[/img]
I have a Telemaster Electric ARF (red 40 size) that I stripped the battery box and electric motor mount out and I want to put a Saito 56 in it.
I was wondering about the balance and I sorta planned to move the engine back about 1/2".
I put wires inside the push rod tubes and plan to bolt the wing on.
[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/22623/Fd92646.jpg[/img]

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Join Date: Dec 2001
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That plane has beam mounts, the extension goes through a snug fitting hole in the unused portion of the beam. I'm going to paint the extension black with some 1200 degree paint. I could have mounted the pipe without the 90 degree adapter but that would make the pipe point forward and look ugly plus I would have to reshape the hole in the beam.

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Thanks Jims, here are a couple of shots of the Tele. Not only do I like and use TurboHeaders, I like Kavan wheels too. I'm going to shorten the extension when I paint it black.

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This pic is a little fuzzy, sorry. In picture #2 above you can see the extra hardwood servo mount beams I installed to have freedom in placing the throttle servo. If I ever put a two stroke in its easy peazy to move it.

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Jim C, if you're wondering about the fit of the extension over the phlange on the TH exit, the 21/32" pipe is very tight fit, in fact the pipe bulges as you push it over the phlange. I slit a 1/2" wide piece and trim it to an exact fit over TH area above the phlange and one thickness makes a perfect bushing where you see the little 2-56x1/8th screw.

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Jim, when I mount this guy on my BTE FlyinKing I'm going to experimant with a cross over pipe and a single oulet on the right side of the plane, I'll need to find some solder that will stand up to Saito exhauste temps. Silver Solder won't, not even close.

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I have some silver brazing rod for refrigerant lines. I put it on with an acetyline torch. They say Mapp gas will melt it but only on something thin. Propane will not touch it. It is standard stuff.

Hobbsy: I will have to differ with you on the silver solder not taking the heat of a Saito engine. I have used it on 82A, 1.80, and 3.00 twin with great success. Get the following silver solder: Safety-Silv 56. Has 5635 on the lid and is part #75315. It is a Harris Product, Mason Oh 45040 zip.
John.
John.

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Mine is the Harris Stay-Silv -15
It is for copper to copper and is used without flux and works about like regular brazing except without the flux.
It is for copper to copper and is used without flux and works about like regular brazing except without the flux.
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Can someone help me out. I'm new to flying with a four stroke and I just can't seem to grasp this. I think the posts I've
been reading date back a few years. I have a Saito 65 I picked up used but in great shape, very few flights, looks and
feels brand new. I'm running a 12x8 prop Master Flow. The max RPM I can get out of that prop is 9200. Manufacture
states RPM range 2000 - 11500 and prop ranging from 14x6 to 11x9 APC. These are my question.
1, Should I run only APC or Wood Prop?
2, What is the max RPM I should be looking for?(With the 65)
3, Will a 12x8 APC or wood prop bring me closer
to the RPM range I'm looking for. (I read
somewhere that I should not run a four
stroke more then 10000 RPMs.
4, Should I try the 11x9 APC?
I have it in a 40 size Hanger 9 P-51.
Thanks for your help.
been reading date back a few years. I have a Saito 65 I picked up used but in great shape, very few flights, looks and
feels brand new. I'm running a 12x8 prop Master Flow. The max RPM I can get out of that prop is 9200. Manufacture
states RPM range 2000 - 11500 and prop ranging from 14x6 to 11x9 APC. These are my question.
1, Should I run only APC or Wood Prop?
2, What is the max RPM I should be looking for?(With the 65)
3, Will a 12x8 APC or wood prop bring me closer
to the RPM range I'm looking for. (I read
somewhere that I should not run a four
stroke more then 10000 RPMs.
4, Should I try the 11x9 APC?
I have it in a 40 size Hanger 9 P-51.
Thanks for your help.

My Feedback: (16)

That is the correct rpm for that prop and engine
You are not going to get 11,500 with any useful prop
The 13 X 6 is the standard prop for that engine and mine turned 10,000 rpm with the APC 13 X 6
You are not going to get 11,500 with any useful prop
The 13 X 6 is the standard prop for that engine and mine turned 10,000 rpm with the APC 13 X 6

Spaceworm:
Yes, it is a crack. I also noticed it when I posted the picture. It wasn't visible on the dirty engine but sure shows up now. Another of my used engine buys gone bad I suppose.
Can anyone suggest any fixes other than a new head?
Jim
Yes, it is a crack. I also noticed it when I posted the picture. It wasn't visible on the dirty engine but sure shows up now. Another of my used engine buys gone bad I suppose.
Can anyone suggest any fixes other than a new head?
Jim

My Feedback: (18)

I've used Safety Silv 56 (Harris) packaged by Lincoln, to make a gear leg for a PT-6 Fleet that required a circle where the opposing leg must go through.
It works with a propane torch and uses flux paste.
You can buy it online at:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
In the March 2009 issue of RC Sport Flyer Magazine there is an article about using the product to make gear for a Mosquito ARF by Gary Ritchie.
I'm sure it will work on an exhaust pipe as long as it is cleaned before attempting the brazing.
Bob
It works with a propane torch and uses flux paste.
You can buy it online at:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
In the March 2009 issue of RC Sport Flyer Magazine there is an article about using the product to make gear for a Mosquito ARF by Gary Ritchie.
I'm sure it will work on an exhaust pipe as long as it is cleaned before attempting the brazing.
Bob

My Feedback: (18)

I have a Saito 1.20 that came with a crack at the top of the head (I was able to put a pin through it). No guarantee on the engine when I noticed it so I used some JB Weld on it. Be sure to clean it good with acetone before attempting the repair. That was probably about 100 flights ago and it still is running fine.
Bob
Bob

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Join Date: Aug 2002
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
The 15% fuel has been setting in the sun.
UV light has destroyed it. It might be Ok to break an engine with but I wouldn't fly with it.
Use it as a cleaner, solvent or to kill ants
The 15% fuel has been setting in the sun.
UV light has destroyed it. It might be Ok to break an engine with but I wouldn't fly with it.
Use it as a cleaner, solvent or to kill ants
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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w8ye, I said I would report back to you about Saito 65's in Old Timer comps well
1/ My original 65 that I was going to use "failed" after some 15 years of faithful service I had to replace the bearings, a bit of rust and a lot of wear.
2/ However all was nor lost I went to my new engine box and fitted up a new 65 with the old muffler in my new Lanzo Bomber. Run in was 16oz of 10% Nitro, 20% Kool Power (competition fuel) and then a couple of 3 minute airborne runs at about 4500rpm with a 15 x 8 APC prop to test out radio and airframe.
3/ Result was not making the fly off but the engine was tached at 6500 during the climb on all 4 rounds (windy day) for an engine run of 3 minutes 50 seconds (average) on 15 mls of fuel per run
For the record the engine is still running on pressure, this will be changed to non pressure soon as I am happy with the rest of its performance
Now Duration. I ran the same engine on30% nitro, 25% Kool power, with a 13.5 x 6.5 Bolly Carbon Prop, it turned a reliable 13, 500 (recorded by the CD) and after 25 seconds into a 32 second engine run it was OOS. It would appear to be a good engine and the 13,500 rpm was I think an abberation (though checked by 2 tacho's) I expect a reliable 12,500 on the ground un loading to 13,000 in the airwith this prop
Oh yes itwas in a 85% Lanzo Bomberweighing 4.5 pounds.
Very happy with this it now goes away to be used at ourNationals at Christmas.
I am now looking at my 50's and 56's for other classes more later
1/ My original 65 that I was going to use "failed" after some 15 years of faithful service I had to replace the bearings, a bit of rust and a lot of wear.
2/ However all was nor lost I went to my new engine box and fitted up a new 65 with the old muffler in my new Lanzo Bomber. Run in was 16oz of 10% Nitro, 20% Kool Power (competition fuel) and then a couple of 3 minute airborne runs at about 4500rpm with a 15 x 8 APC prop to test out radio and airframe.
3/ Result was not making the fly off but the engine was tached at 6500 during the climb on all 4 rounds (windy day) for an engine run of 3 minutes 50 seconds (average) on 15 mls of fuel per run
For the record the engine is still running on pressure, this will be changed to non pressure soon as I am happy with the rest of its performance
Now Duration. I ran the same engine on30% nitro, 25% Kool power, with a 13.5 x 6.5 Bolly Carbon Prop, it turned a reliable 13, 500 (recorded by the CD) and after 25 seconds into a 32 second engine run it was OOS. It would appear to be a good engine and the 13,500 rpm was I think an abberation (though checked by 2 tacho's) I expect a reliable 12,500 on the ground un loading to 13,000 in the airwith this prop
Oh yes itwas in a 85% Lanzo Bomberweighing 4.5 pounds.
Very happy with this it now goes away to be used at ourNationals at Christmas.
I am now looking at my 50's and 56's for other classes more later