William Robison

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Mike:

Quote:

ORIGINAL: mikefuture
...a problem on down lines, the engine quits.

Several possibilities. Easiest one is the LS mixture is still a little too rich, you haven't yet finished its adjustment. Then in the down line it has an easier draw on the fuel and floods.

A second is that you are going downhill at less than ig acceleration, the fuel goes to the front of the tank and the clunk does not follow the fuel. If this is the case holding a little more throttle going down should take care of the problem. Finally, if you are going down at exactly the right speed the plane could be in a "Zero G" state and the fuel and clunk could be anywhere in the tank. If this were the case I'd think it would keep going one time and quit on another.

So try both. Do a close check on the idle, and keep a bit more speed coming down. One or the other should cure it.

Quote:

I was thinking of installing an Iron Bay regulator. I initially had a Perry VP 30 on it, but I felt that it was not getting enough on the high end...

The VP-30 will feed a 2.10 Moki without any problem, the smaller Saito would be no problem if adjusted correctly.

Quote:

Anyone have experience with the Iron Bay with their Saito's? Are they better than Clines?

Cline has been around longer, but I like the metal casing of the Iron Bay. Take your choice.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Bill, did you get the Saito PDF's this time?

jlkonn

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Bill,
I got my new header from Horizon today.
It must be the "short" one you referred to last Friday.
It isn't all that much shorter OAL but it is straight and it is all threads.
It could be run into the muffler a little further to shorten the exposed portion of the header then the original.
JLK

powerlines

SAITO CLUB!!! WELL!!!! I am for sure in this.....
I started out (in 4 Strokes) with a YS. 63 I will not lie. I could not figure it out... THEN>>
Saito .72
Saito .82
Saito 100
And now

Saito 120.. Man this thing has some power.. I can say for sure it has WAY more power than the 100.. I have it on my Funtana.. I am so ready to fly this thing!!



LATER

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

TomK:

Not even a sniff of the Saito files. Did you get an error message?
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JohnK:

Screw it in as far as you want, being careful not to put it in far enough to hit the inside of the muffler and restrict the flow. And if you wish, the ones I've seen are long enough to cut in two and have a pair.
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powerlines:

You are in as member number 218.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

All:

I just got a note from JohnS555, our member #118, about cutting the full threaded exhaust pipe.

I'm sure JohnK is enough of a mechanic/machinist to know, but we all are aware of how the word "Assume" is broken down and defined.

JohnS' point was that when/if you cut the pipe in two, be sure to grind the end to match what it was cut from. One end of the original has a chamfer to allow it to seat in the head, the muffler end can be a square cut.

Thanks, JohnS, for the reminder.

Bill.

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
Thanks for the heads up on cutting the header.
I haven't even taken it out of the package yet.
When I do I will certainly make note of the difference in the ends.
Thanks!
JLK

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Not yet. It takes 24 hours or something like that. You got some sort of problem on your end. I sent it to w8ye also and he got it okay.

hitcttd

My Feedback: (8)

Hey guys i had a question. Just picked up a 125 for my funtana 90... what prop should i swing for break in and/or 3d? I had a brand new graupner 15x8 that i put on, according to the manual. should i stick with it?


thanks

Jerry C

My Feedback: (6)

I'm using an APC 16.5x5W and it seems to work very well.
Jerry

dakster1a

I tried an APC 15-8 on my 125 powered Funtana and it was awful. I am experimenting with different props right now. Next time out I am going to try a 15-10. So far the 16-8 has worked best by a long shot. Not much luck with a 16-6, The only other that I might try is a 17-6, but it might be too big for that engine. Less pitch with a larger prop is best for 3-D but I am just experimenting. I thought the 16-6 would have been best but the plane would barely go vertical.

Jerry C

My Feedback: (6)

I tryed mine with an APC 16x4W and it reved a little to high, I used a, APC 17x6 and it was a little to much. The APC 16.5x5W pulls realy strong.
Jerry

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

xX911gt2Xx:

I've put you in as number 221.

Bill.

mwarren400

Just got a Saito 2.20 Golden Knights for $424 ....I actually went in to get a sssshhhhh O.S. 160FX for the Ultra R/C Giles 202 and the LHS made me a sweet deal on the 220. I also have a Saito .82 on a Funtana....does this get me into Club Saito??

I came to this thread looking for break-in instructions for the 220 ...any different than the .82??...any ideas??

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

mwarren400

Want to be numbered after an old TV school show? OK, you'r number 222.

Please note the following is NOT the official Saito method, but it works for me.

Quote:

Break in of a fresh engine
A piston ring is seated in the first few seconds of engine running after its installation. This holds from the smallest to the largest of ringed engines, and is dependent on cylinder pressure to force the ring against the bore. Therefore, the initial running should be done at a high power setting.

My way is to allow the engine a few seconds to come up in temperature, then I immediately peak the mixture at full throttle, then right back to idle. For the first few minutes of running the engine goes to full throttle for about five seconds, then back to a rich idle for twenty. This gives me the high cylinder pressure to seat the ring while at full, and then at idle more oil is spread on the working parts.

After these first few minutes I'll go back to full and get about 800 rpm rich drop, then lean the idle a bit but not all the way, and put the engine in a plane. Over the next hour or two I'll slowly lean the idle, and bring the HS closer to peak. After a couple hours total time the engine is all ready for extended high power, and I've been able to fly the fuel through the engine instead of oiling the grass at my house. Or not oiling the grass as much as many do.

Excerpted from "Saito Notes." If you would like a complete copy PM or email me your email address.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

WR, et al, I have a request for a part # for the intake pipe for a Saito .45, my Saito .45 MKII paperwork says simply that it is part #59 and the O-rings are part #58. Are these good #s or are there more modern #s to order with, Thanks

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

Sorry, but those numbers are probably just index numbers to the parts listing in the manual.

The best advice I can offer, if the intake pipe is broken, is to get the carb assembly for the FA-40 and adapt it as needed to fit. This would have the advantage of stock appearance.

On the other hand, if you just want it to run, and maybe hop it up a little, get the carb and intake pipe from the FA-56 and go. The mounting of the carb is similar for all three mentioned.

The o-ring should be no problem, visit your local friendly Ace store. Or get the Saito gasket set for the FA-40, most should fit.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

Forgot part numbes and prices.

The FA-56:
Carburetor: $50.96 [SAI50821C]
Intake Manifold: $10.93 [SAI5669A]

The FA-40: (Includes intake pipe)
Carb Complete, FA40A/FA40AGK $37.40 [SAI40A821]

All from Horizon.

Bill.

Fred Dings II

My Feedback: (2)

Hi, Guys

Thanks for the interest, my three Saito engines are sold.

My PM is up and working again. The system couldn't handle the comma in my name so RCU took it out.

I have been impressed by the knowledgeable posts in this forum.

Regards, FRED

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Fred:

I could make many sarcastic cracks about you and Saito, but I'll restrain myself and just say I think you are missing out on the best all-round model four stroke engines, and we are sorry you wont be with us.

I will get nasty enough to wish you well with whatever poor substitute engine you decide to run.

Haw.

Best wishes.

Bill.

Fred Dings II

My Feedback: (2)

Hey, Wild Bill

Yeah, and you're probably a Republican too.

After reading these posts, I simply decided I'm not intelligent enough to use Saitos.

I'm only clever enough for the O.S. and YS engines which were build for dummies like me.

I have to admit that I have learned how vital and instructive you are to this forum. My congratulations.

I will stop back from t to t and check on you.

Regards, FRED

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Fred:

Quote:

Yeah, and you're probably a Republican too.

Only because there's no party more conservative. Haw.

Quote:

...I simply decided I'm not intelligent enough to use Saitos. I'm only clever enough for the O.S. and YS engines which were build for dummies like me.

You belittle yourself. The OS might be intended for dummies, but the YS certainly is not. If you can tweak a YS and make it run well you can surely do the same with a Saito.

And you are welcome back any time.

Bill.

HOOTER

Hey guy’s,

I currently have a 100 Saito, 82 Saito, and a 56 Saito along with numerous other O.S products.

My problem is with the 100 Saito! This engine has been run on more than one UCD 60 and no telling how many gallons of fuel has been through this engine. It has been my favorite plane and engine for the last three years!!! I stored the engine away for about 9 months after changing jobs and trashing my UCD (Dumb thumbs). I filled the engine with afterun oil and put into a ziplock bag in a dry location, but when I retrieved the engine recently, it just did not seem to have the same “pop” to it when I turned the prop!

So I disassembled the engine, and I was appalled with the amount of rust in the engine and although I knew the bearings were going bad (flat spotted no endplay) before I put the engine up, it seemed to have no compression now. So I thought a valve or spring must be stuck so with the cylinder only I filled it halfway up with after run oil and reinstalled the piston. I then pushed on piston to check if the valves or the ring was leaking, but guess what no leakage. So began looking at the camshaft and there is visual signs of wear on the cam, both intake and exhaust. But what seems strange to the wear is only on ½ of each cam. Not being a Saito engine expert, I don’t know how much cam wear is bad enough to lose compression. But the strangest thing when I reassembled it seemed to have more compression than before. I have not had a chance to run the engine yet, but before I put this engine up it run great and had full r.p.m.

Also on the rust question, I have always run Cool Power Green with 2% added oil additive, and I always tend to run my engines on the rich side.

Thanks for your help

Stripe 1

My Feedback: (26)

one 1.50,one 1.80,one 3.00.

N

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

New:

223 HOOTER
224 neal easter

Bill.