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Old 08-06-2012, 05:05 PM
  #22901  
lopflyers
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ORIGINAL: orthobird

as promised, here is a video of the engine on starting, after replacement of the crankshaft and front bearing. saito fa 125 a
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVju0BfoCj8
Hey orthobird I'm proud of you. I pay someone in my club to do those things for me.

Old 08-06-2012, 05:17 PM
  #22902  
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ORIGINAL: earlwb

4 hours in Dawn Power Dissolver is likely to discolor the aluminum alloys in the engine. I don't think I went more than 30 minutes with the stuff myself, more like 15 to 20 minutes. If I had a particularly thick crud deposit I might redo that part a couple more times and I used a tooth brush on it, something softer than the aluminum. But if the DDD doesn't discolor the aluminum then since aluminum forms a tough oxide coating, sort of like painting itself, it tends to be well protected so using DDD for several hours may not be a big deal.


It reacts with the copper in the alloy. 7075 stains real easy ( it's got more copper in it than say 6061...)

I use Dawn Power Dissolver but I never soak anything in it. Spray it on, 10 mins. MAX scrubbing with a tooth brush and rinse it really well. I agree, I find that additional short applications work.

IF your engine case does turn dark you can bring back the original finish using "Wrights Copper Cream" sold in the soap section at your local grocery store. A little dab and a tooth brush will bring back the original case color.

I've only got two engines that are colored, a Red Irvine 150 that looks like its some type of powder coat and a HP .40 with Black Thermex Finish.

Old 08-06-2012, 05:26 PM
  #22903  
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I am an orthopaedic surgeon, but i have rebuilt car engines since age 15 (porsche, alfa romeo, BMW). i love working on the saito. very straightforward.
ORIGINAL: lopflyers


ORIGINAL: orthobird

as promised, here is a video of the engine on starting, after replacement of the crankshaft and front bearing. saito fa 125 a
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVju0BfoCj8
Hey orthobird I'm proud of you. I pay someone in my club to do those things for me.

Old 08-06-2012, 05:49 PM
  #22904  
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That's what I'm saying. I'm a pelvic surgeon and can't do squat with engines. I fly them
Old 08-06-2012, 06:18 PM
  #22905  
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orthobird, nice sounding 125. I have a Slimline on mine and it sounds slightly different. What prop are you running?

Only advice would be the vid position was directly in the danger zone. Regardless of the circumstances, you should never be ahead of the prop at anything above idle. If it went lean and stopped the prop would have come off in a big hurry, (I KNOW!!!). I try to prevent anyone, operators or spectators from being within that arc and I myself quickly move behind the prop once started.
Old 08-06-2012, 06:20 PM
  #22906  
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thank you, that is a 16 x 6. wont do that again, usually i stand behind, but i wanted to get vid for you all to see.
ORIGINAL: Cougar429

orthobird, nice sounding 125. I have a Slimline on mine and it sounds slightly different. What prop are you running?

Only advice would be the vid position was directly in the danger zone. Regardless of the circumstances, you should never be ahead of the prop at anything above idle. If it went lean and stopped the prop would have come off in a big hurry, (I KNOW!!!). I try to prevent anyone, operators or spectators from being within that arc and I myself quickly move behind the prop once started.
Old 08-06-2012, 07:35 PM
  #22907  
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Broken Wings- copper polish will make a Saito shine like it was chromed. Were you the one who did whole engines and polished them with Wright's?

I sprayed a 72 with Dawn and forgot about it for almost an hour while doing something else. It looks okay.

There's a good bit about the late Bill Robison testing paint on Saitos. It's all somewhere in the Club Saito pages, probably around 2004.

I learned to drive on a Alfa Romeo Guilia (Supra). I grew up around airplanes, Peugeots, TR3s, Triumph Bonnevilles, Porsches, Jags, and my dads final effort on a Volvo with a Cobra 289. Living around you would be like growing up at home, lopflyers.
Old 08-06-2012, 07:49 PM
  #22908  
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Hey Barry, its more fun to turn 70 and still not be grown up. Here is my little .30 that Bill Robison blackened the cylinder. Whatever he used is durable.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:22 PM
  #22909  
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Was it running hot to make the castor coke up like that? Just rich and cool I've never seen do that.

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 08-07-2012, 02:24 AM
  #22910  
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ORIGINAL: blw

Broken Wings- copper polish will make a Saito shine like it was chromed. Were you the one who did whole engines and polished them with Wright's?

I sprayed a 72 with Dawn and forgot about it for almost an hour while doing something else. It looks okay.

There's a good bit about the late Bill Robison testing paint on Saitos. It's all somewhere in the Club Saito pages, probably around 2004.

I learned to drive on a Alfa Romeo Guilia (Supra). I grew up around airplanes, Peugeots, TR3s, Triumph Bonnevilles, Porsches, Jags, and my dads final effort on a Volvo with a Cobra 289. Living around you would be like growing up at home, lopflyers.
I learned about "Wrights Copper Cream" here on RCU.
Old 08-07-2012, 05:01 AM
  #22911  
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These two valves ran 20+ years in a High Compression Saito 1.50, the first two seasons they were run on Fox 15% fuel with 20% castor. The rest of theirs lives were on WildCat Premium Extra, 10% with 18% 80/20 syn/castor blend. They look pretty good.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:25 AM
  #22912  
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:40 AM
  #22913  
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:55 PM
  #22914  
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ORIGINAL: Broken Wings


ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

ORIGINAL: blw

Rustoleum paint???? On a perfectly good Saito??? Just don't ruin it in the first place.

For that level of carbon, a crock pot is probably the only thing. It's easy, cheap, safe for aluminum, and very effective. I only use DPD for superficial gunk. However, a dirty Saito muffler is a good looking muffler.
Rustoleum BBQ Paint is the same thing as any other 1200* VHT paint @ a lower cost. It looks like bead blasted aluminum & quite frankly looks better than the bright silver that Saitos are painted with in the 1st place. I've used it on motorcycle cases & automobile cylinder heads, headers & intake manifolds. I use the black BBQ paint for cast iron cylinders etc.

I doubt that you have 1/2 of the modified engine building experince that I have which includes building stroker Harley ''Big Twins'' back when ''stroker kits'' wern't readily available. As well as SB Chevies & my record setting 2006 stock rotating assembly 5.7 Dodge Daytona that put 426 RWHP & 460 RWTQ to the ground while still getting 26 MPG on the Hi-way.

I can see that you are the type that doubts anything that you haven't tried & stick to all the old conventional wisdom that sometimes isn't all that wise. When you do evertyhing the same as everyone else, you will always be following the pack. I usually have the pack following me.

I for one would rather not heat a poisonous substance like glycol anti-freeze in a crock pot.

A bottle of DPD is less than $3 & will clean a lot of engines as well as dirty pots & such. Weak acid solutions (vinegar is an acid) have been use commercially to clean & brighten aluminum

When your done painting it with BBQ paint could you soak the freshly painted parts in a tub full of (15% Cool Power is all I use. No castor, 100% synthetic.) so we can see what they look like?

I bake it @ 300* for 1 hour. It's pretty tough ofter it cools. I have used a rag diped in Cool Power & rubbed the case pretty vigorously. Niothing came off on the rag.

When I get back from vacation I'll soak the cam housing for some timed intervals up to overnight to see if it has any affect. I don't think it will, @ least not any short intervals
Old 08-07-2012, 01:58 PM
  #22915  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Hey Barry, its more fun to turn 70 and still not be grown up. Here is my little .30 that Bill Robison blackened the cylinder. Whatever he used is durable.

Probably black BBQ paint.
Old 08-07-2012, 04:46 PM
  #22916  
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Do you guys just paint the cylinders or do you also bake them. It seems to me that a while back some folks talked about this... I believe that they said that they were using Krylon then baking it in an oven at about 350 for an hour or so.

Does anyone else remember that, or any other details about baking the engine???

Thanks for that tip about Copper Cream. I'm going to get some.

Bob
Old 08-07-2012, 05:31 PM
  #22917  
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

Do you guys just paint the cylinders or do you also bake them. It seems to me that a while back some folks talked about this... I believe that they said that they were using Krylon then baking it in an oven at about 350 for an hour or so.

Does anyone else remember that, or any other details about baking the engine???

Thanks for that tip about Copper Cream. I'm going to get some.

Bob
I'm not sure about Krylon. I don't think it will take the heat. It might.

I use Rustolem BBQ paint. It is the same thing as the VHT (1200*F) paint you buy @ the auto parts store but it's cheaper. It comes in flat black, flat silver & flat (dark) green.

It's rated for 1200 degrees fahrenheit so it's not going to burn off the engine. It seems to be fuel proof once it is baked & cooled.

I bake it @ 300*F to keep from changing the temper of the aluminum. That may not be a legitimate concern but if you are thinking of baking an engine that is assembled, or at least a case W/the front bearing instaled, I woudln't want to go too much higher. It might destroy the seal in the front bearing.

You must also do a good surface prep. Just washing the engine in solvents is not likely to allow a good bond.
Old 08-07-2012, 06:39 PM
  #22918  
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Hey Barry, its more fun to turn 70 and still not be grown up. Here is my little .30 that Bill Robison blackened the cylinder. Whatever he used is durable.

Probably black BBQ paint.

Bill said that he originally baked Imron but later settled on butyrate laquer. I doubt he ever used BBQ paint. He never cut corners afaik.
Old 08-07-2012, 06:43 PM
  #22919  
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ORIGINAL: Broken Wings


I learned about ''Wrights Copper Cream'' here on RCU.
I think that was Jetpack who clued us in on using it. I had forgotten about him. Kmot has done some amazing work too. He posted a lot of examples in other threads. I'll try to find links. His work is worth looking at again.
Old 08-07-2012, 11:36 PM
  #22920  
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Let's see now ....

Orthobird is an Orthopedic surgeon and loves working on engines and Lopflyers is a Pelvic surgeon and can't do squat with engines ...which reminds me of my buddy the Proctologist who has a crappy opinion of engines painted, tainted, boiled, roasted, tinted, shiny, or flat(ulent).

RJ

ps. no offense intended, just a poor attempt to get a laugh, grin, smile, or .....?


Old 08-08-2012, 01:10 AM
  #22921  
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I knew sooner or later someone was going to joke about it. I get it at the field all the time, especially when I show up right after work in my surgical scrubs. Its alright. Someone has to do the dirty jobs[8D]
Old 08-08-2012, 03:37 AM
  #22922  
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LOP. you probably saw an earlier mention of my tearing my left bicep loose from my shoulder plus 75% of my left rotator cuff. I thought I was finished with therapy last Thursday but the Doc. extended to Sept 4th. This has been going on since Feb. 27th. So far, no fly this summer. I sincerely hope this is a once in a lifetime Orthopaedic experience. I'd much rather orthopede an engine.

I have about 250 various Saito picture and was looking for a picture of the "fire hose nozzle" muffler that came with my 1.50. I may have deleted the picture since I only run a TurboHeader on it now. I am going to do a before and after picture because it is a genuine mess. I'll give it a 45 minute boil in antifreeze and take another picture. Off to therapy now.
Old 08-08-2012, 04:26 AM
  #22923  
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:34 AM
  #22924  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

LOP. you probably saw an earlier mention of my tearing my left bicep loose from my shoulder plus 75% of my left rotator cuff. I thought I was finished with therapy last Thursday but the Doc. extended to Sept 4th. This has been going on since Feb. 27th. So far, no fly this summer. I sincerely hope this is a once in a lifetime Orthopaedic experience. I'd much rather orthopede an engine.

I have about 250 various Saito picture and was looking for a picture of the "fire hose nozzle" muffler that came with my 1.50. I may have deleted the picture since I only run a TurboHeader on it now. I am going to do a before and after picture because it is a genuine mess. I'll give it a 45 minute boil in antifreeze and take another picture. Off to therapy now.

Sorry about that Hobbsy. Sometimes Physical therapy takes longer than we expect. I hope you recover and get in the sticks soon.
Old 08-08-2012, 04:50 AM
  #22925  
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