Club Enya
#127
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RE: Club Enya
About the 80X 2-stroke: Has anybody experience with it? Just bought one. I am curious if it will be more tuned to swing larger props or if it likes rpm like the 60X model.
Acually, I bought the 80X helicopter version, but I am intending to use it in an airplane.
Downunder, did you do some comparative timing measurement 60x vs. 80x?
thanks
Acually, I bought the 80X helicopter version, but I am intending to use it in an airplane.
Downunder, did you do some comparative timing measurement 60x vs. 80x?
thanks
#128
RE: Club Enya
The 60X and 80X have the same cylinder timings with exhaust open 75 BBDC and the transfers/boost open at 58 BBDC. For the 60X the crankshaft port opens at 34 ABDC and closes at 52 ATDC while the 80X opens at 43 ABDC and closes at 55 ATDC. This was a bit surprising seeing the both have the same stroke so I'd assumed they'd have the same crankshaft but that's obviously not the case. The 80X is really oversquare with a 27mm bore and 22mm stroke .
I found both sizes to be quite happy with a fairly large prop. The 60 was always run with a 12x6 and a 14x6 on the 80. I know they'll rev much faster than that (from memory the 60 gets peak HP at 16,000) but I've never liked flogging an engine.
I found both sizes to be quite happy with a fairly large prop. The 60 was always run with a 12x6 and a 14x6 on the 80. I know they'll rev much faster than that (from memory the 60 gets peak HP at 16,000) but I've never liked flogging an engine.
#130
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RE: Club Enya
Ah, just..
1 - VT-240
Hope that meets the club minimum requirments.
Looking forward to getting back into flying. It's been a long time. This is my first four stroke. Got an electric, too, as I've never had one of those. (does that now disqualify me from the EC?).
Barry
1 - VT-240
Hope that meets the club minimum requirments.
Looking forward to getting back into flying. It's been a long time. This is my first four stroke. Got an electric, too, as I've never had one of those. (does that now disqualify me from the EC?).
Barry
#131
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RE: Club Enya
Barry,
That's one heck of a first four stroke. Follow the instructions that came with the engine and be sure to use a fuel with at least some castor. If you do a search you'll find my old posts on this engine. It makes a great deal of power and shakes a good bit. Make sure you mount it very securely.
That's one heck of a first four stroke. Follow the instructions that came with the engine and be sure to use a fuel with at least some castor. If you do a search you'll find my old posts on this engine. It makes a great deal of power and shakes a good bit. Make sure you mount it very securely.
#132
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RE: Club Enya
Yeah, thanks Skypilot_one. I think I printed most of your posts that I found by searching.
Project is a Mr. Aerodesign Beaver and it's a long way off yet (years?). I'm really impressed with the Enya and hope to be testing it after I get some more projects done.
Barry
Project is a Mr. Aerodesign Beaver and it's a long way off yet (years?). I'm really impressed with the Enya and hope to be testing it after I get some more projects done.
Barry
#139
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RE: Club Enya
I just got a used plane with a used enya .40 ss, It starts and runs great, dont no how old it is but want to see if it will fly an older sig kadet senior. what does anyone think and what size prop should I use and where should I keep the max. r p m ?
Thanks for any replys, Glenn.
#140
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RE: Club Enya
Being an Enya two-stroke, it is designed to rev. Just use a 9x7 or a 10x6 to an 11x5 and let it turn up. Won't hurt a thing. Lugging down an engine that is designed to turn up will cause the engine to carbon up prematurely, which leads to other problems eventually. Even Enya four-strokes operate better when allowed to rev up a little more than OS engines. I'm not including the VT-240 vee twin in the let-er-rev group of engines. I don't know anything about that behemoth, though I'd like to own one.
Your biggest concern will be whether the engine uses a traditional iron piston in a steel sleeve. If so, you must keep the oil content at 20% or higher and the oil must be castor oil, lest bad things will happen.
If the piston utilizes a ring, then just any old conventional model fuel will do. Enya engines generally like between 0 to 10% nitro in the fuel.
Ed Cregger
Your biggest concern will be whether the engine uses a traditional iron piston in a steel sleeve. If so, you must keep the oil content at 20% or higher and the oil must be castor oil, lest bad things will happen.
If the piston utilizes a ring, then just any old conventional model fuel will do. Enya engines generally like between 0 to 10% nitro in the fuel.
Ed Cregger
#141
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RE: Club Enya
Ed, I have what was new in box, a enya .35 III that I have had for several years. I had not looked at it in years, so I took it out of the box a few weeks ago and found out it was seized up TIGHT, I found out that years ago my son had started it to put it on a air boat. How do i get the seized piston out? This engine was bought by a friend while in the army in Japan about 38 yrs. ago but that is just a wild guess. It came with 2 heads and 2 venturis, the manual has 1-21-10 down in one corner wher you would uaually find a date. any help would be great.
Thanks. Glenn.
#142
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RE: Club Enya
Glenn,
It is probably just congealed fuel causing the piston to be stuck. I recently ran into the same problem with a HB .61 that is close to the same age as your Enya. I took off the cylinder head and filled the cylinder with glow fuel. It sat for a couple of days until it was freed up. I then disassembled the engine and used fuel to clean the rest of the engine.
If you have a spare crockpot, you can set that to a low heat setting, and submerge the entire engine in antifreeze overnight. Be sure to have ventilation for the fumes, and don't set the heat above a warm setting. But, soaking in fuel for a few days will work too.
It is probably just congealed fuel causing the piston to be stuck. I recently ran into the same problem with a HB .61 that is close to the same age as your Enya. I took off the cylinder head and filled the cylinder with glow fuel. It sat for a couple of days until it was freed up. I then disassembled the engine and used fuel to clean the rest of the engine.
If you have a spare crockpot, you can set that to a low heat setting, and submerge the entire engine in antifreeze overnight. Be sure to have ventilation for the fumes, and don't set the heat above a warm setting. But, soaking in fuel for a few days will work too.
#143
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RE: Club Enya
I just ran my first Enya four stroke today.
It is an old exposed rocker arm 46-4C that I bought second hand a couple years ago. I grabbed it the other day thinking I wanted to finally get around to running it. It turned out to have a bent crankshaft, was pretty much frozen up with crud and had lots of rusty steel parts on the inside I found out when I tore it down.
So I soaked all the parts in McKays Parts Dip, then did my usual cleaning with a brass wire wheel in a Dremel on all the steel parts. The bearings turned out to be still good so I just reinstalled them. I fixed the bent crank, and since I have no paperwork I adjusted the valves to .04mm like I do on Saito and OS engines.
I primed the engine, and it started right away. Using a MA 10x7 prop I got 9660 rpm peak and a 2600 rpm idle. It makes a wonderful mechanical music when running. It will idle for minutes on end. I got 55 minutes running time on an 8 ounce load of fuel. It seems like a really sweet engine. I like it!
Click here to watch Enya-46-4C-Four-Stroke-Engine
It is an old exposed rocker arm 46-4C that I bought second hand a couple years ago. I grabbed it the other day thinking I wanted to finally get around to running it. It turned out to have a bent crankshaft, was pretty much frozen up with crud and had lots of rusty steel parts on the inside I found out when I tore it down.
So I soaked all the parts in McKays Parts Dip, then did my usual cleaning with a brass wire wheel in a Dremel on all the steel parts. The bearings turned out to be still good so I just reinstalled them. I fixed the bent crank, and since I have no paperwork I adjusted the valves to .04mm like I do on Saito and OS engines.
I primed the engine, and it started right away. Using a MA 10x7 prop I got 9660 rpm peak and a 2600 rpm idle. It makes a wonderful mechanical music when running. It will idle for minutes on end. I got 55 minutes running time on an 8 ounce load of fuel. It seems like a really sweet engine. I like it!
Click here to watch Enya-46-4C-Four-Stroke-Engine
#144
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: whatwheel
Ed, I have what was new in box, a enya .35 III that I have had for several years. I had not looked at it in years, so I took it out of the box a few weeks ago and found out it was seized up TIGHT, I found out that years ago my son had started it to put it on a air boat. How do i get the seized piston out? This engine was bought by a friend while in the army in Japan about 38 yrs. ago but that is just a wild guess. It came with 2 heads and 2 venturis, the manual has 1-21-10 down in one corner wher you would uaually find a date. any help would be great.
Thanks. Glenn.
Ed, I have what was new in box, a enya .35 III that I have had for several years. I had not looked at it in years, so I took it out of the box a few weeks ago and found out it was seized up TIGHT, I found out that years ago my son had started it to put it on a air boat. How do i get the seized piston out? This engine was bought by a friend while in the army in Japan about 38 yrs. ago but that is just a wild guess. It came with 2 heads and 2 venturis, the manual has 1-21-10 down in one corner wher you would uaually find a date. any help would be great.
Thanks. Glenn.
Sorry to take so long to get back to you, Glenn.
BLW is spot on with his recommendations for freeing a seized engine. I would use model fuel in my first attempt to free up the engine. Be patient and let it do its work. If that doesn't turn out satisfactorily (it should), let us know and we will offer more suggestions. Good luck.
Ed Cregger
#147
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RE: Club Enya
Tom, if you needed it for the cam timing, here is a (sort of) exploded view of my .46 MKII. I'm sorry the pics aren't too good but it's difficult to get good pictures under my shop lights. It's tough to get the cams back in correctly because when you have inside cam in place the outside one won't go in without rotating inside ones lobe out of the way, then you have to put crank back at TDC then lift the inside on up to set the outside one in the right spot. Mucho fun, it'll let you know if you're a mechanic. When I store Enya fourstrokes I remove the carb bracket bolt and inject CX in on the cams, they will rust as you discovered On my .90 I actually drilled a hole in the cam box for that purpose.
Woops, I should have watched your vid. first, I could have saved my self some fun.[8D]
Woops, I should have watched your vid. first, I could have saved my self some fun.[8D]
#149
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RE: Club Enya
Thanks Dave! A day late and a dollar short! lol....
Just kidding. [)]
I figured out the timing okay, just by looking at things. I noticed the cam drive gear had two lines on the rear journal which I decided had to be the matching marks for the dots on the cam gears. I did notice an alternate way to time it however. With the piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the cam timing dots each line up more or less with the top screw holes on the cam box cover.
Anyone want to verify the tappet clearance?
Just kidding. [)]
I figured out the timing okay, just by looking at things. I noticed the cam drive gear had two lines on the rear journal which I decided had to be the matching marks for the dots on the cam gears. I did notice an alternate way to time it however. With the piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the cam timing dots each line up more or less with the top screw holes on the cam box cover.
Anyone want to verify the tappet clearance?