Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

Do you think that she could make us some shot bags/weights out of some good scrap material?

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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She doesn't have time these days. She works full time, plus has her own company to run. Time is precious.


Ed Cregger

AMB

Think you are right on the open rocker 40 have one, picked it up NIB from sheldons about 2 yrs ago , ordered on line just ticks when running and just a stack no muffler, also have a
CX11D and 25Diesel great engines guess in the club too martin

weswanson

I'm having problems with a rich mid range on a New enya 61. It is very rich. I idles and full power runs are fine. I flame out at 1/2 throttle sometimes. any suggestions?

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Which fuel are you running? What are the vital statistics of your fuel?

An engine that isn't broken-in will require excessively rich low and high speed settings in order to run without overheating. The excessive high and low speed settings will manifest themselves in a super rich midrange manner (non adjustable), even though the high and low speed mixtures run the engine perfectly at high and low speed.

Remember, Enya engines are made from hard metal and are engineered/constructed to last a long, long time. Break-in might be much longer than one is used to with other engines.

The engine should be ran on 5% nitro with 20% castor oil (less is okay) out of the box for a gallon or two of fuel. The engine will improve over time, causing you to gradually lean out the high and low speed mixtures, which will also lean out the midrange mixture. You paid for a premium engine and you received one, now give it time to show its stuff. It will be worth waiting for, I promise.


Ed Cregger

purplereign

My Feedback: (17)

HI all,
Looks like I'm a member too. Enya 60-4C over 20 years old, given to me back then. Found it had a bent crank and broken ring, straightened the crank. Fired it up a for the first time a few months back. An older friend helped me with the breaking in the new ring he installed for me. He was suprised at the Enyas power on his recomended prop. He loves 4 strokers, Saito and YS. But it wouldn't idle reliably, I blamed the airbleed carb. So I swapped the carb for a.. don't shoot me for this... Magnum 52 carb (cured th problem), swapped the exhaust from the same engine and gained a K in RPM. Who'da thunk it? Now I own three 80-4C's (and see they are really .74, by this discussion). Two of them are used and one is spankin new. One NIB 53-4C, and a used 46-4C on its way. All bought here on RCU except for the 20 y.o. 60-4C.
I went to Enya.com and asked Mr. enya about reversing these engines. I was suprised to recieve an immediat reply from Ken himself, with a schematic and specific directions for reversing them. Gotta love the Enya's.

P.S. if anyone has an Enya 46,53 or 60, all 4C, for sale, contact me. Thank for all the quality info, Lee

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Enyas are designed to rev, a sure sign of overpropping is the above mentioned rich midrange. With too large a prop the airflow velocity through the carb is slower, requiring a richer setting on the HS needle, Then when you go to part throttle and the smaller venturi area increases the airflow velocity it is rich. Don't get airflow velocity confused with air volume. If I put a Graupner 12x6 on my old Enya .46 MKII I get a very rich midrange, change it to an 11x6 the HS needle can be set about one half turn leaner and all is well. The same Graupner 12x6 is perfect on the .53TN.

jjscott

Anyone have a copy of a manual for an Enya 90 4 stroke scan, pdf, hard copy? I've got the 60 4C and R-120 4C manuals I can copy in exchange.

Thanks, Jim

stg61abc

Hi Jim. Try at the Enya e-mail : [email protected]. Mr Enya himself, is a very gentle person, and certainly, he´ll sent one to you. Recently, i requested the manual for the Enya 40, and received it in a very fast response
The Enya team is very nice...
have a nice day...

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I've run into a strange problem that I haven't encountered before. I have an Enya 240 v-twin with a Keleo exhaust collector. It runs great until I hook up the fuel tank vent line to the pressure tap on the exhaust. With the muffler pressure line attached, it will idle well and even run up to near mid-throttle, but starts to cough and miss and lose power as I approach full throttle. It'll run all day at any throttle setting without the line hooked up. This wouldn't be a problem except it's installed in a Beech Staggerwing and fully cowled and nigh impossible to prime for starting. I've changed the needle valve assemblies on both carbs to no effect. Anyone have any ideas?

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

Paul,
I think I read something in a Clarence Lee article in MAN about 4 strokes that do not have a choke lever and flapper could be choked by simply covering the end of the exhaust and running the starter until fuel reaches the carb(s).
Mike MacLean

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Is it coughing and missing rich or lean? Rich will have lots of extra fuel blowing out of the exhaust. My bet is that this is what it is doing because of the extra pressure in the fuel tank. However, it could be going lean if the pressure is causing the vent line or fuel line to crimp from the extra pressure.

You really do not need to run muffler pressure on this engine, as you have discovered.

The 1.20R that I owned had a choke function built into the carb that wasn't obvious at all. You simply pulled the carb barrel away from the body into an extended position (low idle) and that block the intake orifice enough to allow you to choke the engine. I have no idea whether the VT-240 has this feature, but it might bear examination.

Ed Cregger

speed-panzer

My Feedback: (1)

Exhaust pressure is not needed fot the VT240. Covering the exhaust pipe and turning the prop manually will work only with exhaust pressure on the tank and otherwise closed fuel system.... and you need a downdraft carb so that fuel flows by gravity into manifolds.

Since the VT240 has two updraft carburetors, choking is a challenge if engine is installed upright position - and there is not much space between carbs and firewall! You need the electric starter.
Open the carbs a little more than idle. You will need to apply several seconds (5-10s) the starter, and gradually it will generate enough suction that fuel gets into carbs. It helps for first trials if you can see the fuel lines. Then start glow plug heat and it will start up!

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

Howdy, names's Ron. I just aquired six (6) used 2 stroke Enya engines and one NIB. The used ones include 2 Enya 15's, 2 Enya 29's, 2 Enya 35's and a NIB Enya 60IIIB. Before I got these engines I had never heard of an Enya engine so I don't know anything abput them. But - - from everything I've read I got a really great deal on some good engines. Problem is I cant fine much if any information about tuning them etc. I didn't get any manuals for them. Can one of you Enya guys give me a hint where to set the needle valves for a starting point? Anyplace besides "Club Enya" I might look for information? (prop sizes, glow plugs, proper fuel - or whatever)

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Ron

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

http://www.enya-engine.com/

Ken Enya is very responsive to questions and always helpful.

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, is that Ken Enya as in Enya Engines? Should be a good source of information for sure!! I'll give him a try. Have a great day.

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Yes, indeed. Mr. Enya hisownself (that's a southern expression, i think).

jeffie8696

I bought a nice Enya .60-III and then a cute little .09. The .09 turns a prop better than my friends OS .10 FP And the .60 is running a 12X5 Rev-Up to over 12,000. I think I like them. Can I be in your club too? Even if I have to sell my .60 cause I'm poor. [&o]

Mr Cox

I have the .09 too but haven't done a proper break in of it yet, sure looks nice though...

Could you give a few more details like propsize, fuel and tach numbers?

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Downunder, I picked up an Enya 29lll model 5103, I tore it down to go through it to check the internal condition. I cleaned & oiled it and it looks good and has good compression. I would like to replace the head & front housing screws with socket head screws but I don't know the screw size or the thread pitch. Could you or anyone else help me out? I don't have any literature or manlals on it. The original screws are in good shape but my philips screwdriver doesn't fit the japanese screw heads very well. Thanks for any help George

jeffie8696

Well my .60 is on the way out the door. I got bids on that stinking popular auction site so it is just a matter of time. But I still have my .09 It didn't sell so to heck with em. I ain't giving my stuff away.

Avaiojet

Anyone actually have the Enya 4S 150?

I have the 120R and my interest is the gain in power and performance with the 150?

CK

jeffie8696

the .60 is gone. [sm=cry_smile.gif]
At least I still have my .09.[]

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I have not personally owned or ran the Enya 155-4C, but, from what I have read over the years, it is nearly identical to the 120R in every respect other than the actual displacement.

I would go to the official Enya website of www.enya-engines.com. Be patient while navigating the site and I am sure that you will find the specific information that you are seeking. As far as I know, the 155 is still being manufactured and sold. You have a gem of an engine.


Ed Cregger

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Here you go:

http://www.enya-engine.com/ListAP4CYL_E.html

David