Moki 180/Glow engine
#1
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What does it mean when you have a motor idling pretty good and when you throttle it up to about 3/4 to almost full throttle the RPM will drop significantly and the motor will die unless the throttle is brought back?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
And or the prop is to much and is killing the carburator suction.
Quick check-- put on the smallest RECOMENDED size prop. If the response is razor sharp, you know you need a smaller prop.
Another check for too big of a prop. Flip the plane vertical at WOT. It should not sag in RPM at all.-------Go to smaller prop.
I think propsizes are picked by a sales man at some companies.
Quick check-- put on the smallest RECOMENDED size prop. If the response is razor sharp, you know you need a smaller prop.
Another check for too big of a prop. Flip the plane vertical at WOT. It should not sag in RPM at all.-------Go to smaller prop.
I think propsizes are picked by a sales man at some companies.
#5
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I am running an 18x8 which is the smallest prop that the motor asks for. I was thinking it was lean but as I was richening it up I wasn't getting the full results I wanted. I will try to richen it up slowly. I just couldn't determine if I was too lean or rich. Any other suggestions?
#7
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If it is an older motor check to see if the ring is not gummed up. I had this problem with my Moki 180. its was a Great motor. if the ring is gummed up and not moving freely put i on a bit of emmery paper with some oil.
#8
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I am running brand new fuel 5%. How do I check to see if the ring is gummed up? Do I have to disassemble the motor? The piston seems to move very easily in the motor.
#10
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Yea I can actually get it to start on 1-3 flicks. It will Idle well but when I give it more than 1/2 throttle it begins to die. I guess it must be to lean. Any other suggestions?
#11

My Feedback: (16)
If the idle circuit is gummed up or has a piece of lent in it. It could effect your high speed operation.
This one has the carb with the big disk on the side to set the idle mixture?
Make sure the marker on the disk is set at the neutral point.
Enjoy,
Jim
This one has the carb with the big disk on the side to set the idle mixture?
Make sure the marker on the disk is set at the neutral point.
Enjoy,
Jim
#12
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Yes this is the one with the big disk on the side to adjust the idle. I started adjusting that to get it to start and hold an idle. Where is the neutral point? When you say that if there is a piece of lent in the iddle circut do you mean the idle setting or the high speed idle valve?
#14
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You cant guarante the ring is not gumed up without taking the piston out. You can guage the compression it has. it shoud be quite hard to flick over the compression. it will still runn even if the ring is gummed but you will get similar symptoms to a lean run. ie quits after running for a while and it will get hot
#19
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as w8ye said .. there coud be a fuel blockage somewhere, e.g. clunk fuel line or carby or an air leak . check al of this as well if you are in the mood
#21
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I have new fuel lines that I have checked for leaks. Do either of you suggest disassembling the high speed valve to clean it? What should I use to clean the carb?
#24
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I have forced fuel through by blowing on the preasure line that attaches to the carb to make sure I was getting fuel through. It was getting through just fine. I must just have the high idle set to lean. Do you know how many turns out from closed one should start with?
#25
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Ye i Would be takinf the high end needle apart you will see srtraight away if its blocked gently scape any gum out of the bajo .. the part that the fuel line attatches to. just uses a piece of soof wood sharpend to a point. poke a piece of wire down the hole where the fule line attaches to to make shre its clear.




