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Old 06-10-2011, 12:30 PM
  #451  
geeter
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hey guys, i have a os .61 fs. it's in good shape except for low compression. valves are ok. are there parts still avail for these? where can i get a exploded view of the motor ? it may need just a ring job. there is someone name frank that makes rings for these and many others. anyboby know his address or phone#.............thanks and good flying.........RON
Old 06-10-2011, 05:00 PM
  #452  
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Let's see, we take out the internal muffler baffle and then we begin complaining about insufficient fuel draw (engine goes lean at the slightest opportunity). As a result of the reduced fuel draw, you now have to set the high speed needle richer in order to compensate for the loss of fuel pressure caused by the removal of the muffler baffle. Net result: zero power gain, noisier engine, needle becomes unsettable while maintaining a perfect midrange.

I know you have been around the block several times, Spaceworm, but for those that do more than just fly around in mostly level flight, any additional fuel pressure is certainly worth more than a couple of hundred top end rpm.

I'm not trying to insult you in the slightest. As I've said, I know that you have been around the block more than once in model airplanes.


Ed Cregger
Old 06-10-2011, 05:02 PM
  #453  
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Let's see, we take out the internal muffler baffle and then we begin complaining about insufficient fuel draw (engine goes lean at the slightest opportunity). As a result of the reduced fuel draw, you now have to set the high speed needle richer in order to compensate for the loss of fuel pressure caused by the removal of the muffler baffle. Net result: zero power gain, noisier engine, needle becomes unsettable while maintaining a perfect midrange.

I know you have been around the block several times, Spaceworm, but for those that do more than just fly around in mostly level flight, any additional fuel pressure is certainly worth more than a couple of hundred top end rpm.

I'm not trying to insult you in the slightest. As I've said, I know that you have been around the block more than once in model airplanes.


Ed Cregger
Old 06-12-2011, 07:20 PM
  #454  
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Need to replace bearings on my OS 120 Surpass III. What sources have you found for good bearings at a decent price? And how do I know what size the bearings are? Thanks. Searches have not given me this info. Jon
Old 06-12-2011, 08:22 PM
  #455  
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You can take the bearings to a local bearing supplier or try Boca Bearing, which advertises in the RC mags and specialize in replacements bearings, including chrome, stainless and ceramic. Tower should also carry replacement bearings??
Old 06-12-2011, 09:00 PM
  #456  
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I'm probably going to try a local supplier if I can get the bearings out completely. These removals never work easily like everyone on here seems to say they do. I heated the case up 400F for about 15 minutes. When I rapped the engine on the rear, the rear bearing inner race and ball bearings fell out. The outer race stayed in the engine. I did more heating, and the front bearing came out in one piece with a little help from a screwdriver and dowel. Still cannot convince the outer ring/race of the rear bearing to come out after more heating still at 400F. There is nothing to push on! There is a very small rim of the race exposed in one part of the engine case, and I can grab it with a needle nose pliers, but it won't budge. Any suggestions from the collective experience of those here? Sure need some help. THanks in advance. Jon
Old 06-13-2011, 06:43 AM
  #457  
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Wow guys, this was not for meek of heart. I let the engine cool off overnight. This morning I tried heating the engine at 400F for 10 minutes in the oven...NADA. Went to 450F for another 10 minutes...with my needle nose pliers, I think I saw the outer ring of the rear bearing rotate a smidge. Went to 500F and it rotated more and I got it pulled out half way. Went to 530F and after 5 minutes more, a gave the engine a tap on the wood block, and the outer ring of the bearing FINALLY FELL OUT! Geez that was fun, haha. Now I have the front bearing in one whole piece, and the rear bearing in two pieces (inner and outer rings) to take to a local shop to buy new ones. I just need to get the shop name and location from a fellow club member. I know I have the hardest part of the job done now, right?! Jon
Old 06-13-2011, 07:22 AM
  #458  
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Default RE: OS engines users Club

You can go to bocabearings.com and perform a search for your engine, and they'll list the part numbers and bearings that are available for your engine. You can then use those part numbers to tell the local bearing supply shop what you need.

Old 06-13-2011, 11:46 AM
  #459  
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Got her done! TOok the bearing sizes off Boca (thanks earlwb) and went to the local bearing shop just a couple miles away. Only about $10 for my two new bearings. Test fitted and of course they weren't going in easy. Tried the bearings in the freezer trick, and it didn't shrink them enough to fit. Had to go the oven route at 500F and then I got the new bearings in with some convincing. I just reassembled the engine and am putting her back in the plane. Hope I got the cam set right, but I noted TDC and the little dot on the cam's position and think I have it exactly where it was. Looking forward to firing her up next time! Should be better than when I got it, because I bought it used a couple years ago. Jon
Old 06-13-2011, 12:35 PM
  #460  
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Some engines can have tight fitting crankcases. Maybe they bored the bearing holes a teensy bit too tight or something. I have run into tight bearings on a couple of engines in the past. I have had a couple of other engines sort of worry me some as the bearings would come out easy and go in easy too.
Old 06-13-2011, 06:58 PM
  #461  
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500 degrees may have permanently damaged the engine. I place the entire engine in the freezer. Then place in a 250 oven for a few minutes, so the bearings remain cold while the crank case expands from the heat. For reference, gas engines such as 3w, DA etc, should run at 180 to 220 to burn off carbon; above 270 and parts get warped and damaged. OS has a manufacturers thread, which will give first hand advise on their engines. You may want to ask them about a recommended heat level. I got to believe above 300 is not good.
Old 06-14-2011, 11:25 AM
  #462  
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Well, I took the plane out to the field today. It started, ran, and sounded sweet again, so I am a very happy camper! The higher heat needed to remove and insert the bearings did not damage the engine at all. If you read Bax'es posts, there is one somewhere that I came across today that says it is ok to heat to higher temps as long as doing so in an oven which will evenly and gradually heat up the whole engine. That's what he said in a nutshell. Feels good to do this kind of work on the engine myself, and with great success. Jon
Old 06-15-2011, 06:06 PM
  #463  
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500 degrees is ok?? Time will tell. Gradually heating the engine defeats the purpose. Keeping the bearing cooler provides for the differential expansion of the case. And under normal circumstances the aluminum will absorb heat much faster. I am curious about what temperature range Bax would find acceptable, but to each his own.
Old 06-16-2011, 05:29 AM
  #464  
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I found Bax'es post. Oops he did not say gradually, just evenly. "You can use a regular kitchen oven to heat the case, but make sure you've completely degdreased/de-oiled the case and bearings. You don't want any petroleum smoke inside a food overn. You can also use a heat gun, such as used for shrinking film covering. A butane torch will also do the job. j With both the heat gun and butane torch you have to keep them moving around the case to make sure it gets evenly heated. The heat won't affect the bearings. The aluminum case will expand more than the steel bearing races and will allow them to come out. If the bearings are especially stubborn, we've added more heat. As long as the case is heated evenly, we've not had problems. " This is from a thread called "91 FS surpass". Jon
Old 06-16-2011, 04:39 PM
  #465  
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dis regard this post, I found the solution to my question.
Old 08-23-2011, 05:37 PM
  #466  
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HI everyone,

I need a little advice on rebuilding a OS FS-91 Surpass 4-Stroke, not to be confused with a Surpass II. I got it as a derelict at a flea market for $25 but after a dip in the crock pot with hot anti freeze, she really cleaned up nicely.

I've installed new bearings and have a lot of other items to replace, i.e., gaskets, etc. She is starting to look really sweet, but I need some help with some things. Here are my questions:

1. Is there a manual for the Surpass somewhere on line? I could not find one on the OS Engines site. If not, does anyone have an extra hard copy manual that I could buy?

2. Is there a gasket under the valve cover? My only source of info is a manual for a Surpass with electronic ignition, and that does not show one.

3. How do I 'time' the engine? What marks do I look for on the camshaft, and what do they match up to?

4. Is there anything I should know or watch out for? What kind of prop did she like? I plan on using 10% nitro and a OS Type 'F' plug.

This engine was a bugger to reassemble. Had to use more heat & freezer tricks than usual to get the bearings, crankshaft, and prop washer on, but they got on nonetheless. Its just that I don't want to disassemble this again Please help me from making any mistakes.

Thanks everyone,

Bob
Old 08-24-2011, 05:08 PM
  #467  
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Any thoughts???

Bob
Old 08-24-2011, 06:06 PM
  #468  
jetblast96
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OS FL70 User
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:27 PM
  #469  
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Has anyone had problems with 46FX's developing bubbles in the NVA? I've sealed everything off, new gaskets all round and it is SEALED TIGHT.

My thoughts are that it must be vapourization of the fuel at the needle.
Old 08-24-2011, 10:04 PM
  #470  
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ORIGINAL: Rendegade

Has anyone had problems with 46FX's developing bubbles in the NVA? I've sealed everything off, new gaskets all round and it is SEALED TIGHT.

My thoughts are that it must be vapourization of the fuel at the needle.
Howdy Renegade you may have to isolate your tank so non of it is touching the fuz, firewall etc. jam some foam in there as necessary. Cheers the pope
Old 08-24-2011, 10:45 PM
  #471  
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Every fuel tank install I do is packed with enough foam that it won't float around inside the fuselage, but not enough that it's rigidly mounted.

Fuel foaming is not the issue, as I said the bubbles appear AFTER the NVA. I've checked it for leaks, sucked it, blown it, had it underwater and NADA.
Old 08-25-2011, 09:59 AM
  #472  
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

Any thoughts???

Bob
I cant answer all your questions but I do know the prop size I used on this engine. I had one for years and I liked the performance I got from a 13x8. My favorite was a 13x8 Evolution prop.
Old 08-25-2011, 05:26 PM
  #473  
N1EDM
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Thanks TruBlu, I'll file that information.

Did you ever disassemble one? I'm not sure I know what to look for, for timing marks when I reassemble the cam gear.

Also, if there isn't a manual on the web, does anyone have an old one that they'd think about selling??

Thanks,

Bob
Old 08-25-2011, 06:05 PM
  #474  
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

HI everyone,

I need a little advice on rebuilding a OS FS-91 Surpass 4-Stroke, not to be confused with a Surpass II. I got it as a derelict at a flea market for $25 but after a dip in the crock pot with hot anti freeze, she really cleaned up nicely.

I've installed new bearings and have a lot of other items to replace, i.e., gaskets, etc. She is starting to look really sweet, but I need some help with some things. Here are my questions:

1. Is there a manual for the Surpass somewhere on line? I could not find one on the OS Engines site. If not, does anyone have an extra hard copy manual that I could buy?

2. Is there a gasket under the valve cover? My only source of info is a manual for a Surpass with electronic ignition, and that does not show one.

3. How do I 'time' the engine? What marks do I look for on the camshaft, and what do they match up to?

4. Is there anything I should know or watch out for? What kind of prop did she like? I plan on using 10% nitro and a OS Type 'F' plug.

This engine was a bugger to reassemble. Had to use more heat & freezer tricks than usual to get the bearings, crankshaft, and prop washer on, but they got on nonetheless. Its just that I don't want to disassemble this again Please help me from making any mistakes.

Thanks everyone,

Bob
SEE IF THIS WILL HELP
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:04 PM
  #475  
N1EDM
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Thanks, Wattmeter... I have that one. My problem is that I'm not sure what is the same and what is different between the Surpass II FI and the plain old ordinary Surpass.

Did you ever have the opportunity to disassemble/reassemble one of these? What did you use for timing marks???

Thanks,

Bob


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