I came across this pumped version of the 1.40RX on TH. Is there any user who can comment on the performance of the 1.40RX with the PD-06 pump ? Thanks...........

Here's a pic of the pump unit taken off TH site

I think that pump is standard on all 1.40Rxs, my 1.40 would scream, awesome running motor with the hatori header and pipe. Was getting 8200rpm on cool power 20% pro pattern swinging an apc 17x12, hope this helps

Flyinrazrback is corrent.

How is your rear bearing so far? How many flights do you have on the engine?

OS 140RX has two versions.

One is standard pumped version. The other is an EFI that does not have pump and electronically controlled fuel injection.

Many people flying pattern with 2-stroke engines use OS 140RX.
There are other 2-stroke engines such as Webra 145 Aero, Webra Bully, 3M Mintor etc.

All the above engines work very well in pattern applications.

For the OS140RX, people discussed bearing life a lot.
Many of them didn't last very long. Not really sure why.
I heard most of them complaining about the bearing life had rear bearing failure within 300 flights.

I am also considering one of the afore mentioned engine.

The 3m mintor is certainly different with cnc aluminum body and two glow plugs. Why two plugs ??

Rajul,
I heard the dual-plug helps on the idle.
Some people using OS 140RX swapped their engine head with 3M 140's.

3M is also lightest of the three engines.
It is probably the cheapest because it comes with two headers while the Webra and OS don't.

Almost equivalent power, and if the warranty service become available as OS, I am definitely sure to have one.

Does it improve the acceleration/deceleration compared to single plug ? I am also wondering how does one attach the glow igniter to the head ? Is it better with a remote glow igniter with parallel connection to the plugs ?

Rajul,
I have no idea or heard anything that the dual plug will improve transition. Only better idling (lower rpm).

For the igniter setup, I have no idea, I will try to look for any info on that in my archive and post.

Maybe someone can answer this?

My guess is that you don't need to heat both plugs to start the engine... use the one that is mounted vertical, the other one will get hot very quickly...

If you want to heat both plugs you can also put them in series. All you need is 2.4 V instead of 1.2 V and one plug connected to the negative side of your power source and the other connected to the positive side...

You don't need to light both plugs. Only one is needed to start the engine. The second plug is heated just the like first one is after the battery has been removed - by the ignition of the fuel. And then, just like normal, both glow plug elements remain hot until the next cycle.

Hi,

At this time I am looking to buy a new 2 stroke engine.( I actually use a OS160FX with a cline regulator. on an evolis XXL)

Does the 3M mintor 140 have the same ball-bearing problem has the OS 140RX?

Does the 3M mintor 140 can run with less nitro ( between 0 and 5 %)?

What do you think about this engine?

thanks for your help.

julien

Real problem with the rear bearing is it's too small. Much too small, IMO, for the amount of power the motor puts out. It's the same rear bearing used in the OS 1.08. In that motor, it's about the right size, but in the 1.40rx, it's way too little bearing to support that huge crank.....

Mine lasted about 3 or 4 gallons before it went rough and started putting out black residue in the exhaust.

When finally I took the motor apart, my jaw simply dropped when I pulled the crankshaft. Here was this enourmous, stout crankshaft riding in this eensy little tiny main bearing.

No wonder they go bad so fast.

Motor sure runs good, though. But it really needs a redesign with a much stronger main bearing.....

LS

Let get all the facts then, the rear bearing for the 140RX is also used in the FT160 nd FF320. I have three of these beast, (140RX)changing the bearing once a year ain't a big deal....takes about 1 hour...remember one thing this is a high performance engine and that do mean TLC, feed it good, run it dry, and store in a dry area.....garages by he way are not a dry area(depending were you live!

Well, it's just my opinion that it's simply too small for the 1.40, particularly with the power output that motor has at such low rpms. The pounding on that bearing must really be intense.

On the other hand, this might be intentional to save weight. The bottom of the crankcase can be made a lot smaller this way. My 1.60FX has a beefier bearing in it, but you can see and weigh the difference it makes in the case and indeed the entire motor.

And since crash damage usually does an r/c motor in before it actually wears out, it probably doesn't make any difference.

By the way, how do you get the motor apart anyway? I couldn't find a way to get the con rod off the crank pin without destroying it, the piston and the pin. With the liner removed, I still had to pry it off the pin no matter what position I put the crank in. Destroyed everything except the crank....

LS

Check the movement of the rod on the wrist pin... if it doesn't slide all the way to one side for one reason or another (gummed up oil for instance) you can have a hard time getting it apart.

If the rod is able to move all the way it should be no problem, because this is also the way the engine was assembled...

Ok, that was probably it - the rod might have been not going all the way to one side. it sure doesn't now, now that it's been bent up from my dumb-butt prying, but it might have been that way all along.

Innards were all toast on the motor anyway due to corrosion so it didn't really matter.

sure is a fantastic running motor, though, for sure and awsome power/weight ratio..

LS

You bend the conrod...that was a major prying exercise, one of my general rule if I need to used forces something is either wrong or I'm not doing in the correct sequences.