Hi

Have some questions about the fs200:

How should i mount it? Is running well, mounted inverted?
Does it need a pump for wirking well?
Which prop (for 3d flying) is best?
Do i need some dampers for mounting it or is it running well enough?
How much nitro do i need for it? Are 5% enough (yes, i'm coming from europe ;-))

thanks for help, hawa

I havent run mine FS200 yet but running other OS engines can answer your questions.

Mounting in any position is fine as long as the tank is centered with the throttle drum.
It does not need a pump unless you place the fuel tank fare back from the engine and on the CG.
I think 18x6, 18x8 or 19x6 are very good for 3D.
Dampers are not needed, usually weight too much and can be the cause for other problems.
All OS engines run just fine on 5-10% nitro but 10% or more is better as usuall.

Hi

How about collaboration of the fs200 with the perry VP-30. I read, that it works fien with the saito 180. The fs200 has a correct crankcase breather.
My problem is as followed:

My tank is mounted in the cg. So its mounted about 7,5inches behind the firewall. And it's above the wingpipe and with mounting the engine inverted its centerline is about 1.20" obve the carb.

Would this placement work fine with the vp30?

I forgot. My question about the dampers was, because my flyer is very light and so a little bit fragile I have these dampers lying around. Any experiences with it?
http://shop.lindinger.at/images/M19011.jpg

cu, hawa

If you use a perry pump then you can place the tank fare back on the CG and abit higher o lower doesnt matter, thats atleast my experience with the twostrokes on perry VP-30.
Those dampers are good and looks like the ones Dubro has. Tighten them hard to minimize motion.

Hey you guys, search around RCU. Some guy was having GREAT success using only the breather pipe to presurize a CG mounted tank. No pump.
He'd reported that he'd had 7 or so flights without any problems.
Even he was very surprized how well it was turning out.

I am not running a pump, just muffler pressure on mine...The engine is side mounted, the tank is 7" behind the carb just below center of carb...I am running large fuel line and have absolutely no fuel draw problems at all.

Primes and starts extremely easy, very smooth and quiet.

I am running a Mejzlik 18/8 at 8600 on 30% nitro.

Mounted in an Extreme Flight 74" Yak

Hi Wingburner,

I am thinking about getting the FS200 for the EF Yak as well - could you let me know about the vertical performance with it? Also, did you ever try to run on low nitro (suach as 5% and yes, I'm from Europe, too...) and if so, what is the effect on performance?

Thanks,


Christoph

Hi Christoph,

You can pull up from take-off and it never stops..Pulls out quite easily from a hover, not a rocket but enough to keep out of trouble..

As far as less nitro, no I haven't tried anything less than 30% Perhaps with a Mejzlik 18/6 and 10% would be a perfect combo

Jack

Sounds good... what about balancing - did you have to add any weight in the front to get the CG right? Do you have an indication of your total weight without fuel?

The alternative I still see is the FX160, but due to noise restrictions we can't use pitts style mufflers here, so I'd probably need to go with a tuned pipe (the OS standard muffler is choking the engine, I'm told, and still too big to fit under the cowl). This would require modifications to the fuselage which I'm not keen on. Do you happen to have any comparison with the FX160 vs. your FS200?

Christoph

I have a 5 cell sub-c pack on top of the engine box and it is still a little tail heavy but flyable, just a bit touchy on landings.

I considered the OS 160 also but had to try the new 200 first..Some people say the 160 may need a pump and I didn't want to go there, so hence the 200..With the standard mufflers I would say the 160 has a little more top end power.. Both engines swing the same prop but i think the 200 has better throttle response, it is very fast to spool up...I have not weighed the plane but it's light...I would say 11 to 12 lbs. max...

Jack

Christophe, my experience with it till now.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60..._4/key_/tm.htm

My conclusions so far. It is a weak engine for its displacement, not for its weight. I will place it soon on a pattern ship to see if it will do any better in the air and improve after running in.

I'm about 500 rpm away from the numbers that OS claims at bottom of page:
(my fuel 15% aerosave 10% nitro)
http://www.os-engines.co.jp/line_up/fs-200s/index.html

Thanks for the link to the other thread, I had not seen that before. It seems there is not that much experience out there with the engine up to now, but I am inclined to buy it rather than the 160FX - the EF Yak is a 3D plane and my experiences with my other 4 stroke engine (Saito 100) were extremely good, especially for responsiveness and spool-up.

I do have a couple of weeks before I need to get the engine, so I'll follow the discussion to see if more interesting stuff comes up. Hans, if your engine is broken in it would be great if you could post your experiences!

Thanks,


Christoph

Does your FS200 leak all the oil, that normally goes through the breahter, through the hole at the rear?
I have made a wooden plug to stop this.

Hi everyone, here's some experiences with my FS200:

POSITIVE
- Reliable, starts easily with a starter, I also successfully hand started it
- Uses very little fuel, runs about 10 minutes on 350ml with mixed throttle settings
- Low vibration for an engine of this size
- Quiet with standard muffler

NEGATIVE
- Performance could be better (7700 to 8200 on Graupner Sonic 18x8)
- Oil loss through the hole on the back of crankcase - did have to put a wooden plug in it to stop this

ISSUES
- I do loose power after some time when the engine runs full throttle - I believe it is an overheating problem
- The cylinder head (intake/exhaust, valves) is a bit hidden behind the cowling, the rocker cover is in the airstream as well as the cylinder below the head (see picture)

Does anyone have similar issues with power loss when hot? If the engine is cold, my Yak takes off after 10ft, if its hot it barely hovers.

Thanks for posting.

Cheers,


Christoph

Couple of things Chris.. Any aircooled engine that is "hidden" will overheat no matter what. In the photo you uploaded, there is not nearly enough ventilation for the high 3D loaded engine. You need to fully open the front of the cowling and cut a BIG opening underneath it, and use at least 18% of oil, no matter what the quality is..

Secondly, the hole at the rear body of the engine blockyou are talking about is actually an access hole to remove piston pin retainers. It shouldnt leak under normal operation as it is completely sealed with the cylinder wall against it.

Thanks - I guess the photo is not that great. The front opening to the cowl is about twice as wide as the cylinder (difficult to see), and the outlet underneath the cowl (not visible) is at least wice as big as that. But I guess I still need to open up the area in front of the cylinder head. I am not sure if openening the whole front of the cowl would improve the situation a lot, as most of the air will just pass the engine and it needs to get out again.

I'm just wondering if anyone with the FS200 has had similar temperature problems...

The hole in the back is really annoying - it has leaked a substantial amount of oil from the very beginning. Hans Meij in the post above had similar problems, and another guy from Germany reported his engine had started leaking after some time, too. Former Webra engines had a screw in there that sealed the hole nicely, I wonder why they left it open on a quite expensive engine as that.

Cheers,


Christoph

Christoph,

You may have to cut openings in the vanes on the front of the cowl so that a direct air flow will come in and go past the engine. It still looks like it isn't getting the right amount of air. Just a suggestion.....

Christoph,
What fuel are you using? Any castor oil in the fuel? Castor oil helps alot for hot running engines and high performmance engines and keeps the power up. A mixture of syntetic and castor oil IMO works best in any glow engine.

You might experience oil coming out the wrist pin access especially if you run the engine inverted.The design somehow allows oil to collect between the liner and crankcase which is forced out thru' the hole barely 5mm from the gap via crankcase pressure.I think a redesign is in order or wait till the oil gets baked on and plugs the gap!

This is how the cowl and air outlet look like. I am running 17% high quality synthetic oil (Aerosynth3), 10% nitro.
Has anyone else experienced similar overheating symptoms as me with an FS200, e.g. comparison with/without cowl?

Thanks,


Christoph

The wooden plug in the crankcase vent will cause power and over heating problems

No, the plug is actually not in the crankcase ventilation, it is in the access hole that is required to mount the conrod. The hole is already covered by the cylinder liner, but it still leaks oil (see picture from Hans Meij above). The crankcase breather is open.

Good job

European quality level...!

Those are better shots of your cowl vents. You couldn't see those in the first pic.