nubrnchld

I have a 16x10 prop on this engine it just doesent seem to reach a high enough rpm does any one know what the rpm should be on this engine with this prop and also is there an alternative carborator for this engine i think thats a lot of my problem i say that because no matter weather i lean or richen the mixture the rpms dont change too lean and the motor quits i can turn the needle almost all the way out going rich and the rpms dont change i have not put a guage on it but the sound doesnt change. need help!

Dave

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Too much prop

nubrnchld

the manual called for a 16x8 is that going to make much difference if not what would you reccommend

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't have a 2300 but from my experience this size engine would run best with props in the 15-6 to 16-6 range. It will make needle valve easier to set. Reading the manual and their recommendation of a 18-10 is out of sight in size

nubrnchld

I though the same thing when i saw that prop size in the manual as well i going to try something in the range you suggested thanks

niborn

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

Has the engine been run in? What %nitro are you using? Less is better. If the engine is not broken in, that is probably too much prop. Are you using the stock muffler? Borrow a tach so you will know what the engine is actually turning.

RevGQ

First, make sure the engine is running in right direction. If it is, then you most likely have an air leak or something caught in the carb. You should be able to get the engine to run rich with the high-end needle set at 3-3 1/18 turns out. Air leaks can appear between the carb housing and carb throat. Make sure that you push the carb down against the rubber o-ring while tightening.

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

this engine will run a 17-8 scimitar prop at 8800-9000 on the grond, and unloads to several hundred rpm more in the air. a 16-8 will run faster than that. this is after breakin, but the rpm doesn't change much- maybe a few hundred rpm lower at first, when the engine is richer during breakin. the 3 2300s I have do anyway.

what muffler do you have on the engine? is it the original muffler or an aftermarket muffler? many aftermarket mufflers give little back pressure so the engine doesn't get enough fuel flow at high throttle. what needle setting do you have the high end- it should be set rich during breakin per the instructions. What fuel?

Ed

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

I use the 17X6 on mine and it takes a while to get this engine broken in. It will pull this prop at or more than 9000. This engine isn't easy to get to run properly but it will if you keep working with it, it will run. Great engine with good power.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Daver, people don't consider that when you overload an engine, the airflow velocity through the carb can be too slow to make much fuel draw, that makes your HS needle ineffective and the LSN impossible to set correctly. The 2300 carb is rather large to start with so overproping it makes things worse. AMB and I work with Bob Davis occasionally on Diesel conversions and we discovered that the 18x8 recomendation is simply too large. Stop and consider that the recommended prop for a Saito 1.50 is a 16x8, same for an Irvine 1.50, the 2300 is a 1.40. So, use a smaller prop, let it rev a little, (not at first though), and you and it will be happy campers. I used the Saito method to break in my 2300.
10 minutes at 4,000
10 minutes at 5,000
10 minutes at 5,500, deviated from Saito method
20 minutes at 6,000
10 minutes at 6,500. All this was done set lean enough to not need the glow battery attqached but rich enough to miss a little and smoke a little. By this time it will have excellent compression and be ready to fly at a safe, rich setting. Don't worry about heat cycling it, flying will take care of that. This one hour run is twice as long as magazine testers use when evaluating engines.

sowega flyer

IMO, so far you have received great advice here about the ST2300. I have one also that I really like-but it didn't start out that way. To pass along some advice that was given to me when my engine didn't run very well is to take the carb apart and clean it. I found 2 tiny peices of brass left over from the manufacturing process that was the source of my high speed needle not being very effective. When I put the carb back on the engine, I sealed the base with RTV to make sure it was a good seal. It turned into a whole different engine after that.

pe reivers

I have run the ST2300 extensively using 18x8 and 18x10 Menz-S props doing glider tow.
The engine is very versatile and will have no problems at all ulling large props, as long as you stay above 6800 rpm.
A colleague runs 16x12 props on it for Imac

joetach

My Feedback: (7)

For thos who really want to get some great performance from the ST 2300,....Try using a Perry regulating pump, with an OS carb (I`m using a Type 86 from an old OS 61 RFP) with a APC 17X8 prop. Use a Type "F" plug and set the HS NV at 1-3/4 turn out (any more and I guarantee a soaked plug). The enging should easily turn the 17X8 at about 84-8700 rpm (after break in).This is the combo I have on my 120 size Balsanova after much testing, and I couldn`t be happier with it. I have used the 7L, 7M and 7D Carbs getting very good results from all of them. By the way, the stock ST card worked very well also after I changed the barrel to the older type that has the STRAIGHT slot in it. The new type carb barrel has the "dog leg" slot is totally useless unless you run the engine at full throttle ALL the time. The biggest broblem I have found with this particular engine is the lack of muffler pressure with the stock muffler hence the pump. If you set them up right, it will keep up with any comparable in it`s class. The best part is it`s only 150 bucks! If there is anything I can do to help anyone with a new ST engine, I`ll be happy to share my infinite wisdom with you...(NOT!). God Bless and fly safe!

Joe

telejojo

I have found this engine runs best on 5% nitro and less oil.I used up about a 1/4 gallon of fuel and poured methanol in to cut the oil % and it runs great with the stock carb.

djlyon

Hi Joe I have 2 st2300s. One very early italian and one chinese. They have both been used in my Balsa Nova (avatar). Great motors in all respects right out of the box. Both get nasty with me if I try to run them on more than 5% nitro. The plane engine combo seems to like the 17/10N APC best, running at 8000. It now has a 18/6 Mejlick which they also turn 8000. Both run absolutely stock. Both carbs are the early type before ST got to screwing with them.

Denis

qldviking

I run a mejzlik 18x8 on my 2300 on a yak, excellent performce with no roblems at all straight out of the box. I run 20 oz through it on my test bench and then flew it. It was a little sluggish for the first 8 or 9 flights but then came to life nicely as it settled in and I started leaning out. awesome motor with unliited verticle on a 72" yak

turbo.gst

My Feedback: (8)

I run either a APC 17x 8n or a 16 x 8 Pro Zinger. I have talked to a few guys that swear by a 16 x 10 for the engine. I have yet to try one of those, but I will. I am very happy with my 2300's.

turbo

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

Im spinning an APC16-10 at 8300 rpm to stay under airframe resonance. The stock carb was great with an APC15-10 at 9400rpm but too big for the larger prop.

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

What he said. At least come down in pitch. Oops responding to a 6monh old thread. Plane is probably dead by now

Uncas

My Feedback: (1)

Old Post but I am looking possibly at buying a large glow engine. This one is interesting due to the low cost, or is it? After reading about this engine it looks like it needs:

About 20 to 30 tanks of fuel to break it in.

Possibly a new carb. Jett makes one for $85. Or the stock one can be modified? (rcaerobats site has a mod). Or DOES THE STOCK CARB WORK OKAY?

Probably needs a regulator, but the OS-160 probably does too.

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

For the most part, the kinks have been worked out in the latest version, you can just run it the way it is, stock out of the box.

The big problems were with the early carb w/dogleg shaped slot in throttle barrel and the early muffler with two outlets not giving enough tank pressure.

The reason so many people would tinker with this misbehaving engine is because it is inexpensive for a quality 23cc engine and it is very powerful when you manage to get it tuned right.


Mike

qldviking

I love my big tigres, I have 8 now from the 2300 up to the ST6000 twin. I have found they run best with bigger props and 0-5% nitro, and about 16% oil. Yes, they do take a bit to run in, but once its done and done right you will have a bullet proof motor that will run forever and a day without any hassles. As mention before, some after market mufflers have the exits too large not giving enough back pressure, but other than the mufflers all mine are stock. I do run 4 stroke glo plugs with the idle bar tho, transition and idle seems better with them.

RevGQ

The engine runs out of the box as its been stated. Outfit it with a 16X8 prop, set the high end to the top rpm and then adjust low end for the lowest possible consistent idle. Once your consistent idle is reached, recheck the high end for the peak, and then back it off 3 0r 4 clicks rich. This set up will help you break in motor a bit faster without danger of over heating. As you run more fuel into it, you will need to re-adjust the top end first and then idle slightly. Always start with the top end however.