Guys,

i have a usual glowplug starter that uses a 1800mah NiCd battery.

I use it for several years and now the battery doesn't make it during a day at the field.
Really frustrating.


So,
is there any glowplug starter,

that uses as input 12V,so as to use the Lead Acid battery from my sullivan engine starter ?

That's a 7.2Ah battery and ofcourse it lasts long with a single charge.

I hope you can help!

Kostas

The easiest thing to do is to replace the battery... and you can buy a couple of them together...

Most of the power panels have a glow plug output, and you need a glow plug clip.

Direct 12V over the glow plug burns it in no time.

There are still possibilities...

Use a series resistor....
Use some electronics to reduce the voltage... or to generate a PWM with an average voltage around 1.2V...


I would look first for a battery...then a cheap glow starter.... (I bought one for 7EU)...and then for a power panel....and so on..

The once pretty standard power panel that is inputted by the 12 volt battery used for the starter also provides 6 volts for an electric fuel pump and 1.5 volts for a glow plug driver. My panel made by Hobbico (Tower) has a meter tied into the glow driver so it reads the current draw, and as a result shows if the plug is taking current (not burned out). The panel uses a cord ended plug connector that Du Bro, for one, makes. I use my power panel for all three and only charge the 12 volt gell cell battery once or twice a season.

Well 1.5v yes and no. It supplies 12v to the glow plug intermittantly. Works great, has indicator to indicate if glow plug is good or how much heat is going to the plug depending on the model http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXWX80&P=7 $17.95

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=HAN120 $5.95


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Guys,

thank you all for the immediate answers.

I have this field box,
( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDBH8&P=7 )

but not as a prebuilt one,
i build it myself.
TH used to carry them as kits,and i have made mine from a kit.

As you see,
i don't have much space to mount the Hobbico micropanel,

except from the sides.


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The micro panel comes with a box fastened to the rear so it is completely enclosed.

It can stand alone or you can recess it into a bigger box by taking the back cover off

The attached is the one I was referring to, not the micro panel which was not an option in 1983 when I bought the one I use. I built my pit box from a Goldberg kit and mounted the power panel on angled wood brackets secured to the panel with wood screws and to the flight box with Golberg right angle hatch brackets right above the gell cell battery. So, to get at the back side of the panel I just loosen two screws and snap the panel away from the flight box. The panel I use, as described in the tech spec on the Tower site, provides 1.2 (not 12) volts to the plug connector wire sockets. The plug connector is very similar to the one you attached. I find the plug driver powered like this to be particularly useful when breaking in an engine (per Hobbsy's method) as it does not drain down like a single cell nicad or nimh would.

Sincerely, Dick

What's the deal with the cylindrical GLOW HEAT switch?

And then there`s the easy option, just get a new glowdriver, they are cheap and the old one that has been in duty for years can rest in the bin

It is to regulate the power to glowplug depent on ampere range cause by resistant in glow plug filament. The normal ampere are between 2,5 and 3 ampere for a glowplug.

[sm=thumbup.gif]If the glowplug are wet by fuel, regulate a bit higher than normal power to burn away fuel in glowplug and back again to normal power, then the engine are ready to restart..

Xmm,

sounds good to me!