Wow, yer one a them Ol farts.
One of my first planes was a Sterling RingMaster with a McCoy 35 blue head on pressure.

Bisson has a pitts muffler
http://www.bissonmufflers.com/en/muf...imageField.y=8

Here are some links to more reading

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-engines-142/10674278-mark-moki-g180rc-gas-engine.html

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...as-engine.html

Didn't mean to hijack yer thread, sorry.

Need help! I need a piston for a MOKI 61 LS. Anybody? Email me [email protected]

Is anybody still viewing this thread? Is so, I have a inline 50cc that I need info on. I bought it here on RCU, and it didn't have instructions with it. I'm wondering what size prop to use. I've got plenty of experience with MOKI's, and really like them. But this is the first time I've owned a 50cc (the box says inline 350). I'm assuming that means 3.50 cubic inch.

Sorry, this is Paul, from Tulsa, and thanks in advance.

It should be marked 3.60 on the box. I run a 24x10 on mine and it turns 7000 or so, but I still have it very rich since I just replaced the rings and bearings.
Be prepared to feed it LOTS of fuel and have plenty of papwer towel read. It is a nasty beast! I use a Cline regulator on mine, but I am sure it will run fine on muffler pressure if you can get the tank high enough. It has a unique sound due to it firing twice in each revolution.

Jeff

I believe that this engine came out before the 3.60. Just a guess, but the box says 3.50 and each cylinder has a 25 stamped on them which comes out to just over 3.0 cubic inch, so I don't know how they come up with 3.50.
Anyways, I'll probably try a 20X10 for break in. (This engine has obviously never been run.)
But thanks for the info. BTW, what mufflers did you use? I know Jtec and Bisson make mufflers for Moki, but I was wondering if you could manifold the cylinders together and have one canister. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2168411

That is odd since that 10.360 number is the part number for the 360 twin.
Mine says M180 on one side and 30 on the other which makes it a 360. I wonder if yours was rebuilt at some point with the older Moki 1.50 cylinders?
I am using the Bisson Mufflers, but would prefer a log style cannister with one outlet. DA uses that type of muffler on their 100cc inline twin.

Here's the motor....http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2168412

I'll try this again...http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2168413

Certainly not rebuilt. I would contact the factory and ask. This is important because they had crankshaft upgrades along the way. Early cranks were prone to breaking.

Wear a thick glove when you start it. I find it easiest to back flip against compression. Every once in awhile it will get into an odd cycle where each cylinder is firing in a reverse order from one another. It rocks back and forth only turning a half a turn....very strange looking and sounding

To further confuse things....here is one listed as a M360, but it has 180 cylinders...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860954

Yeah, but the DA is an gas (ignition), and I was wondering if the back pressure from each cylinder would interfere with the firing of the other cylinder.

I've had a couple of the 2.10's, and love them. Even though no one can understand why I still fly glow engines, but to each his own.

It shouldn't both are two strokes opearting on the same theory. It should have the same muffler pressure if you put the tap near the feont cylinder since MAYBE the gas from the front cylinder could create a slight vacuum on the pressure port if it was on the rear half??

I run methanol in some of my spark ignition engines. My little G26 turns 10,000 rpm on alcohol. I have a Sachs 4.2 on methanol, and I getting ready to run my G62 on methanol. I hate the smell of gas. They run MUCH cooler on alcohol too.

That's awesome! Do you use the same carburetor?

You can if you are handy. For the smaller engines, up 30-40cc you can use a Walbro WT499 which already has larger jets internally. Otherwise, you have to pop the welch plugs out and increase the jet size to twice the area, NOT twice the diameter. Takes a bit of trial and error, but its fun.
I will probably get an adaptor to run the 499 carb on my 360.

You gotta put it on the piston first, pull the front housing off, push the piston up out of the cylinder, carefully remove old ring. Next clean the ring groove a broken off piece of the old ring does this well. Very carefully spiral the new ring onto the piston. Place piston back down into the cylinder, carefully. It's pretty straight forward.

Moki 210
 

To all Moki lovers. I need to find a backing plate to eliminate the big round backing plate so I can use beam mounts. Any info would help. Thanks, John

Cutting out
 

Hi, hopefully moki owners are still reading this, I'm at a loss trying to get my 210 glow engine to run.
so last season the engine was troublesome, difficult to start, and would cut out every flight. I shelved the model losing too much flying time trying to get the 210 to behave
this month it was time to sort it once and for all. I've changed all the lines, and got 1/8 for the carb line. Raised the tank to the same level as the intake, moved the tank up to the firewall. Removed carb cleaned, found crap by the spraybar the might have caused an issue, replaced all o rings. I was confident it would be sorted, its worse. Bottom end disc is centred, 3 turns out on top needle, it fires on the prime, then cuts out. Ive tried a small richening of bottom end, and tried opening up the top end, no difference. Plug is enya 3 and is fine, muffler pressure nipple is clear
I noticed on priming, full throttle and thumb over intake it's getting fuel,but not exactly flooding. Engine is on its side, cylinder is exposed out of cowl . No pump, tank is close to engine, and it was fine previously. What can i try now?
thanks