WACO YMF
11-17-2008, 07:32 AM
#7401
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RE: WACO YMF
Bill,
re: Waco Kit.
I have not yet seen the kit. To date everything has been conversation at the swap meet this last weekend. The threads posted have given me good info so I will have better knowledge when I see the kit in person. So for the original die cut kit, what would be a price range, and then for the newer laser cut kit what would be the range for it. My fear is that once I lay eyes on this my emotion will get the best of me. I am looking forward to getting started.
Regards,
Bruce AMA 903437
re: Waco Kit.
I have not yet seen the kit. To date everything has been conversation at the swap meet this last weekend. The threads posted have given me good info so I will have better knowledge when I see the kit in person. So for the original die cut kit, what would be a price range, and then for the newer laser cut kit what would be the range for it. My fear is that once I lay eyes on this my emotion will get the best of me. I am looking forward to getting started.
Regards,
Bruce AMA 903437
11-17-2008, 07:47 AM
#7402
RE: WACO YMF
A couple of years ago, I purchased a 1/6 scale Waco YMF for $175 on Ebay, standard kit in OK shape. I then came across the same kit in excellent shape with fiber glass parts for $200. I sold the first kit for $230 on Ebay. I think I came out alright, but I always lust after the 1/5 scale in the red and white!
11-17-2008, 10:42 AM
#7404
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Tony V.
Bill,
I have a kit I ordered right from Pica , It came in a plain white box...about 10 or 12 years ago..
Bill,
I have a kit I ordered right from Pica , It came in a plain white box...about 10 or 12 years ago..
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
11-17-2008, 10:47 AM
#7405
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: bbogart
Bill,
re: Waco Kit.
I have not yet seen the kit. To date everything has been conversation at the swap meet this last weekend. The threads posted have given me good info so I will have better knowledge when I see the kit in person. So for the original die cut kit, what would be a price range, and then for the newer laser cut kit what would be the range for it. My fear is that once I lay eyes on this my emotion will get the best of me. I am looking forward to getting started.
Regards,
Bruce AMA 903437
Bill,
re: Waco Kit.
I have not yet seen the kit. To date everything has been conversation at the swap meet this last weekend. The threads posted have given me good info so I will have better knowledge when I see the kit in person. So for the original die cut kit, what would be a price range, and then for the newer laser cut kit what would be the range for it. My fear is that once I lay eyes on this my emotion will get the best of me. I am looking forward to getting started.
Regards,
Bruce AMA 903437
Bruce,
Prior the the plans and templates being available, I have paid as much as $350.00 for one, and as little as $200.00. I can't tell you how much to pay, since I don't know how much it's worth to you not to have to cut your own. I would reccomend buying the Cowl and wheel pants from Stan's.
If you do order the pants from Stan's or Fiberglass specialties, you will still need to section about 1/4" out of them, otherwise they look too pudgy. This is an easy modification, and to tell you the truth, not only does the finished job look better, but since you are cutting out the factory seam, you also get rid of all the voids and pin holes. It takes me about 30 minutes to do both of them.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
11-17-2008, 01:53 PM
#7407
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Tony V.
Bill,
I found the invoice, 11/01/2001, 309.95, 16.95 scale cockpit, 12.00 shipping. 44 page manual, 3 page supplement 2 drawings..
Bill,
I found the invoice, 11/01/2001, 309.95, 16.95 scale cockpit, 12.00 shipping. 44 page manual, 3 page supplement 2 drawings..
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
11-17-2008, 04:42 PM
#7410
RE: WACO YMF
Hello all
Let me first say welcome to all the new Brothers.
Here's an update.Works been slow on the Waco lately but I finally have the fuselage, cowl & wheel pants primed.
Stickbuilder Bill, maybe you can help me out on how to simulate the screws heads and any thing else I need to do before painting. I noticed the reinforcing tape was not sticking in some places I tried ironing again and still wouldn't stick. Has any one else had this problem? and if so what did you do? I had a bottle of Monokote trim solvent I used a Q-tip and work the solvent in the lose spots it discolored the covering but held the tape down good and after priming it looked good.
Can't Waite to start spraying yellow paint
Dan
Let me first say welcome to all the new Brothers.
Here's an update.Works been slow on the Waco lately but I finally have the fuselage, cowl & wheel pants primed.
Stickbuilder Bill, maybe you can help me out on how to simulate the screws heads and any thing else I need to do before painting. I noticed the reinforcing tape was not sticking in some places I tried ironing again and still wouldn't stick. Has any one else had this problem? and if so what did you do? I had a bottle of Monokote trim solvent I used a Q-tip and work the solvent in the lose spots it discolored the covering but held the tape down good and after priming it looked good.
Can't Waite to start spraying yellow paint
Dan
11-17-2008, 06:05 PM
#7411
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
You can use a syringe with white glue in the tube. My Veterinerian gave me a couple with needles. I ground the needles off to a blunt end (get the small ones). Practice dropping the glue so that you end up with a rivet head look. It will dry clear, and then you can prime and paint away. Stay away from the glue drop rivets with sandpaper.
Don't ask how I know this.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
You can use a syringe with white glue in the tube. My Veterinerian gave me a couple with needles. I ground the needles off to a blunt end (get the small ones). Practice dropping the glue so that you end up with a rivet head look. It will dry clear, and then you can prime and paint away. Stay away from the glue drop rivets with sandpaper.
Don't ask how I know this.Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
11-17-2008, 06:21 PM
#7412
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: germrb
Anthony,
Ask Bill what the humidity was at 86 degrees. I used to live in Melbourne. It was bearly tolerable from Thanksgiving to Easter and the rest of the year sucked.
Our summertime humidity is more like 4%. It'll suck the tears right out of your eyes.
BTW, our deer and elk are REALLY big. Try an elk at 600 lbs dressed.
Anthony,
Ask Bill what the humidity was at 86 degrees. I used to live in Melbourne. It was bearly tolerable from Thanksgiving to Easter and the rest of the year sucked.
Our summertime humidity is more like 4%. It'll suck the tears right out of your eyes.
BTW, our deer and elk are REALLY big. Try an elk at 600 lbs dressed.
Anthony
11-17-2008, 10:04 PM
#7415
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RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
What did you use for covering and trim tape? Did you simulate rib sitching and what method?
I have used model railroad track nail for rivet heads. I cut off the nail to 1/8" length and use a #60 drill for the hole. However, they may be too big for your scale. And, if you're after flush rivets obviously that method won't work.
At the risk of not minding my own business, I assume that you are going to paint a white undercoat before you shoot the yellow. I made the mistake once of shooting lemon yellow over silver and got zinc chromate green. Really ugly.
Anthony's right. Every detail will pop out when the yellow goes on.
Looking great, so far
What did you use for covering and trim tape? Did you simulate rib sitching and what method?
I have used model railroad track nail for rivet heads. I cut off the nail to 1/8" length and use a #60 drill for the hole. However, they may be too big for your scale. And, if you're after flush rivets obviously that method won't work.
At the risk of not minding my own business, I assume that you are going to paint a white undercoat before you shoot the yellow. I made the mistake once of shooting lemon yellow over silver and got zinc chromate green. Really ugly.
Anthony's right. Every detail will pop out when the yellow goes on.
Looking great, so far
11-17-2008, 11:52 PM
#7416
Join Date: May 2005
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RE: WACO YMF
WOW!! Did something happen to the website the last email notification I got about somebody making a post was back on November 11th when WacoJoe made post number7354, and here all this time I thought that no body was posting. Holy Hannah 30 post have gone by if it wasn't for CTFLYBOY sending me an email I wouild have never found out. Thanks George!
Later
Later
11-18-2008, 01:49 AM
#7417
RE: WACO YMF
Bill
I give my wife vitamin B shots so I have a good supply of syringes to practice with. I still have to make a tail wheel I bent 1/8 wire as the plans shown but as you can see in the pic it looks pretty bad. I looked at the index page at the tail wheels and think I'll try to make one like Ken made on page 42. Wish me luck.
Anthony
Thanks for the good words after reading this thread I go to yours and keep up with your progress looking good!!
germrb
I used the silver solortex covering and used Gary Sibert tape I used the Cubmans way to simulate the rib stitching he has a great web sight with a lot of good ideas.
http://www.geocities.com/cubmanky/main.html Thanks for the heads up on the white undercoat I hadn't planed on doing that.
Dan
I give my wife vitamin B shots so I have a good supply of syringes to practice with.
I still have to make a tail wheel I bent 1/8 wire as the plans shown but as you can see in the pic it looks pretty bad. I looked at the index page at the tail wheels and think I'll try to make one like Ken made on page 42. Wish me luck. Anthony
Thanks for the good words after reading this thread I go to yours and keep up with your progress looking good!!
germrb
I used the silver solortex covering and used Gary Sibert tape I used the Cubmans way to simulate the rib stitching he has a great web sight with a lot of good ideas.
http://www.geocities.com/cubmanky/main.html Thanks for the heads up on the white undercoat I hadn't planed on doing that.
Dan
11-18-2008, 05:37 PM
#7418
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
.........My Veterinerian gave me a couple with needles.
.........My Veterinerian gave me a couple with needles.
Sorry, Bill, I just couldn't resist. I'm ready to duck, I hear your outer doors coming open
mrdhud, your WACO is looking great! Some really nice detail, the taping looks very good, color will make it awesome. Same goes for yours, too, germrb. I keep watching all these models coming together; man, I wish all could get together in one place when they are done. There have been two finished 1/5 Pica YMF's through my LHS in the last month, both very nicely done. One had a 1.80 Saito, the other had a converted Echo weedeater engine. Both went for >$475 with engines and no servos or radio. One had been built for over 15 years.
Keep up the great work, everyone. I'll get back into it soon, I hope.
11-18-2008, 08:47 PM
#7419
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: khodges
Most of the rest of us have real doctors; I guess it's something particular to submarine MCPO's Sorry, Bill, I just couldn't resist. I'm ready to duck, I hear your outer doors coming open
mrdhud, your WACO is looking great! Some really nice detail, the taping looks very good, color will make it awesome. Same goes for yours, too, germrb. I keep watching all these models coming together; man, I wish all could get together in one place when they are done. There have been two finished 1/5 Pica YMF's through my LHS in the last month, both very nicely done. One had a 1.80 Saito, the other had a converted Echo weedeater engine. Both went for >$475 with engines and no servos or radio. One had been built for over 15 years.
Keep up the great work, everyone. I'll get back into it soon, I hope.
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
.........My Veterinerian gave me a couple with needles.
.........My Veterinerian gave me a couple with needles.
Sorry, Bill, I just couldn't resist. I'm ready to duck, I hear your outer doors coming openmrdhud, your WACO is looking great! Some really nice detail, the taping looks very good, color will make it awesome. Same goes for yours, too, germrb. I keep watching all these models coming together; man, I wish all could get together in one place when they are done. There have been two finished 1/5 Pica YMF's through my LHS in the last month, both very nicely done. One had a 1.80 Saito, the other had a converted Echo weedeater engine. Both went for >$475 with engines and no servos or radio. One had been built for over 15 years.
Keep up the great work, everyone. I'll get back into it soon, I hope.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
11-19-2008, 02:08 PM
#7420
RE: WACO YMF
Stickbuilder
Bill, I gave the wife a poke in the rear (that didn't sound good) I gave her a vitamin shot and used the needle with the white glue as you suggested to simulate the rivets it worked great and so easy to do. wish it showed up in a picture but to small.
This question is for any one using the Zenoah 26 engine. I mounted the engine and cowl so I can cut for the muffler and spark plug I had to take off the venturi stack off the carb to mount the cowl. The question is are you flying your plane with out one or did you cut the cowl to accommodate the venturi?? I hate to cut a hole in the side of the cowl It's right were the detailing is (of coarse on the other side.)
Dan
Bill, I gave the wife a poke in the rear (that didn't sound good) I gave her a vitamin shot and used the needle with the white glue as you suggested to simulate the rivets it worked great and so easy to do. wish it showed up in a picture but to small.
This question is for any one using the Zenoah 26 engine. I mounted the engine and cowl so I can cut for the muffler and spark plug I had to take off the venturi stack off the carb to mount the cowl. The question is are you flying your plane with out one or did you cut the cowl to accommodate the venturi?? I hate to cut a hole in the side of the cowl It's right were the detailing is (of coarse on the other side.)
Dan
11-19-2008, 02:42 PM
#7421
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
Fuel stand-off will not be an issue with a cowled application. You should be just fine without the velocity stack.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Fuel stand-off will not be an issue with a cowled application. You should be just fine without the velocity stack.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
11-19-2008, 02:51 PM
#7422
Join Date: Sep 2004
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RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but all the rivets you are putting on the fuse are actually screws. This is so access can be had under the panels for annual inspections and such. The cowl has rivets right where you have the metal band and along the trailing edge for the reinforcing band. You could try heating up a screw driver (phillips on NC 14081) and pushing it into the rivet head to get simulated screws (do a test piece first).
P1 Side view of fuselage front
P2 Close up of cowl join strip. Note rivets only on the upper side
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but all the rivets you are putting on the fuse are actually screws. This is so access can be had under the panels for annual inspections and such. The cowl has rivets right where you have the metal band and along the trailing edge for the reinforcing band. You could try heating up a screw driver (phillips on NC 14081) and pushing it into the rivet head to get simulated screws (do a test piece first).
P1 Side view of fuselage front
P2 Close up of cowl join strip. Note rivets only on the upper side
11-20-2008, 05:32 AM
#7424
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: lazyace
dan I have 10 flights on mine with a g-26 no stack don't need it , flys like a dream at 1/2 throt
dan I have 10 flights on mine with a g-26 no stack don't need it , flys like a dream at 1/2 throt
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1