WACO YMF
12-15-2012, 02:52 PM
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RE: WACO YMF
Bill thanks for that info..I'm not sure about using poly. I have never used it to fill weave.. Nitrate with talc does a really good job.. that much I do know. Always goood to learn something new.
12-15-2012, 04:42 PM
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RE: WACO YMF
I was told that the polycrylic with talc also works. I tried it once without much luck but I think I may have used too much talc as it got very thick.
Chris
WB #133
Chris
WB #133
12-15-2012, 06:12 PM
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RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Ssorry about so many questions, I'm quickly approaching the point where Ihave to decide on what finish I will be using.
One more question. Ijust bought a fast drying Lacquer based light ptimer at the auto parts store. Can this safely by applied over nitrate dope without it lifting the dope?
TIA
Joe
12-17-2012, 05:05 AM
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP
OK, Next question. How does other solvent based paints go over the Polycrylic? I'm thinking either Klass Kote or maybe automotive base coat, clear coat. Also, if anyone has any experience with the bc, cc automotive stuff, how easy is it to work with as far as masking off trim colors. How about wet sanding between coats? I keep hearing buys talk about using Latex water based paint.That is typically a satan finish, so a clear coat will be required for a high gloss finish. How does it work over the Polycrylic?, And how does it handle masking?
Ssorry about so many questions, I'm quickly approaching the point where I have to decide on what finish I will be using.
One more question. I just bought a fast drying Lacquer based light ptimer at the auto parts store. Can this safely by applied over nitrate dope without it lifting the dope?
TIA
Joe
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Ssorry about so many questions, I'm quickly approaching the point where I have to decide on what finish I will be using.
One more question. I just bought a fast drying Lacquer based light ptimer at the auto parts store. Can this safely by applied over nitrate dope without it lifting the dope?
TIA
Joe
Bob
12-17-2012, 04:23 PM
RE: WACO YMF
Bill,
I have used the PolyC on sevral builds as you know. The best method I have found is to thin it with water approx 10-15%. I apply it with a foam brush and apply light coats. The stuff dries fast so it does not take long to get several coats down. A light sanding after the 2nd coat and each coat after will keep the air bubbles to a minimum. I have found 4-5 coats gives me the desired results I am looking for.
Another note I add all the rib stitching and tapes before I start applying the PolyC. Also make sure you will not need to take an iron or a heat gun to the surfaces as the PolyC does not like the heat. It will blister in short order.
I now have all the parts to build a new fuse for my 1/3 Waco so it looks like I will be busy this winter.
Anthony
I have used the PolyC on sevral builds as you know. The best method I have found is to thin it with water approx 10-15%. I apply it with a foam brush and apply light coats. The stuff dries fast so it does not take long to get several coats down. A light sanding after the 2nd coat and each coat after will keep the air bubbles to a minimum. I have found 4-5 coats gives me the desired results I am looking for.
Another note I add all the rib stitching and tapes before I start applying the PolyC. Also make sure you will not need to take an iron or a heat gun to the surfaces as the PolyC does not like the heat. It will blister in short order.
I now have all the parts to build a new fuse for my 1/3 Waco so it looks like I will be busy this winter.
Anthony
12-18-2012, 05:16 AM
RE: WACO YMF
I used Minwax Poly C on both of my Wacos and my Heinkel 51 with very good results. I sprayed flat latex (it sands easier) over the PolyC which worked well, but you must be careful when removing masking tape. Clear coated with Nelsons or Klass Kote over the latex with no issues.
12-18-2012, 05:28 PM
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP
OK, Next question. How does other solvent based paints go over the Polycrylic? I'm thinking either Klass Kote or maybe automotive base coat, clear coat. Also, if anyone has any experience with the bc, cc automotive stuff, how easy is it to work with as far as masking off trim colors. How about wet sanding between coats? I keep hearing buys talk about using Latex water based paint.That is typically a satan finish, so a clear coat will be required for a high gloss finish. How does it work over the Polycrylic?, And how does it handle masking?
Ssorry about so many questions, I'm quickly approaching the point where I have to decide on what finish I will be using.
One more question. I just bought a fast drying Lacquer based light ptimer at the auto parts store. Can this safely by applied over nitrate dope without it lifting the dope?
TIA
Joe
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bob, actually the polycrylic is lighter than enough coats of nitrate to seal the weave. Plus it's water based, and there is no stink. Keeps the War Department happy.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Ssorry about so many questions, I'm quickly approaching the point where I have to decide on what finish I will be using.
One more question. I just bought a fast drying Lacquer based light ptimer at the auto parts store. Can this safely by applied over nitrate dope without it lifting the dope?
TIA
Joe
I have used Dupli-Color High Fill primer over the Polycrylic with good results. I have painted over this with Krylon spray enamel and with latex. The latex is much cheaper to spray and you can readily get custom mixed colors for about $15 a quart. The Krylon spray enamel produces a more glossy finish but you are limited on color choice. Also both hold up well to gas but nitro is a No No.
I am thinking of going with Stits finish on my 1/3 Waco this time around. Just want to try something different.
Later!!
Anthony
12-18-2012, 06:52 PM
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RE: WACO YMF
Thanks for all of the good answers relating to types of paints, fillers, etc. Inow have five coats of 50% reduced Nitrate dope on everything. Iwill be using a primer over the nose area which was aluminum on the fullscale. I still haven't decided on the color scheme -DUH! - but I'm leaning toward the cream and maroon or Burgandy scheme. I may just end up doing a non-scale finish as Ihave no plans to compete with this model. I may just uise NC8870 (my AMA#) as my registration numbers. Does anyone know when the NC numbers on the wings were dropped and the FAAwent with the N numbers on the fuselage?
Thanks again for the good comments on the painting. It is very timely!
Joe
Thanks again for the good comments on the painting. It is very timely!
Joe
12-18-2012, 08:08 PM
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: RCplanman
Stickbuilder, Bill, what do you use/like for covering? Thanks,WB126
Stickbuilder, Bill, what do you use/like for covering? Thanks,WB126
Bill, Waco Brother #1
12-19-2012, 04:21 AM
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RE: WACO YMF
I'm building the Barth 1/3 YMF, and have a question on the center wing sections, upper and lower. Attached photos of center sections from a thread I found somewhere. The upper wing section has the fiberglass tube backed up with balsa between the tube and upper and lower spar. The lower wing has just the fiberglass tube running through plywood ribs with no backup. In fact there is no spar above it. Seems like there must be a bending load from the wings going through the center section. Or am I missing something here?
THANKS,
Mike Hopkins Brotherhood # 132
THANKS,
Mike Hopkins Brotherhood # 132
12-19-2012, 08:22 AM
My Feedback: (2)
RE: WACO YMF
The difference is that the lower wing center section is part of the fuse structure, sort of. Because its part of the belly pan there seemes to be a ply front and back TE and LE edge where as the top wing has a smaller TE, LE edge.
12-19-2012, 08:43 AM
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RE: WACO YMF
Mike,
The attached pictures show the bottom and top center sections of the Peter's current design. The pictures you posted must be from an older design. Both parts are pretty strong. PM me your email address and we can help each other through the build. I'm presently working on the tail feathers.
Chuck
The attached pictures show the bottom and top center sections of the Peter's current design. The pictures you posted must be from an older design. Both parts are pretty strong. PM me your email address and we can help each other through the build. I'm presently working on the tail feathers.
Chuck
12-19-2012, 11:32 AM
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RE: WACO YMF
Guys,
Thanks for the comments. I guess that with the bottom wing center section attached to fuse, that part is stiff, and the plywood ribs are stout enough to resist deflection of the aluminum tube without additional help..
Mike H #132
Thanks for the comments. I guess that with the bottom wing center section attached to fuse, that part is stiff, and the plywood ribs are stout enough to resist deflection of the aluminum tube without additional help..
Mike H #132
12-20-2012, 07:17 AM
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RE: WACO YMF
IGIVEUP!
Several months ago one of the Brothers posted a comment regarding having stencils made for his trim. If I remember correctly, he sent the company a set of the kit sticky back decals and they used them to make stencils or vinyl trims and numbers.Ithink this wasfor the 1/5 scale kit.Ican't find that post and I've been looking for over a half hour! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Several months ago one of the Brothers posted a comment regarding having stencils made for his trim. If I remember correctly, he sent the company a set of the kit sticky back decals and they used them to make stencils or vinyl trims and numbers.Ithink this wasfor the 1/5 scale kit.Ican't find that post and I've been looking for over a half hour! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
12-20-2012, 08:36 AM
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP
I GIVE UP!
Several months ago one of the Brothers posted a comment regarding having stencils made for his trim. If I remember correctly, he sent the company a set of the kit sticky back decals and they used them to make stencils or vinyl trims and numbers. I think this was for the 1/5 scale kit. I can't find that post and I've been looking for over a half hour! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
I GIVE UP!
Several months ago one of the Brothers posted a comment regarding having stencils made for his trim. If I remember correctly, he sent the company a set of the kit sticky back decals and they used them to make stencils or vinyl trims and numbers. I think this was for the 1/5 scale kit. I can't find that post and I've been looking for over a half hour! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Bill, Waco Brother #1
12-20-2012, 09:36 AM
RE: WACO YMF
Joe:
I had vinyl decal made from the PICA 1/5 scale kit's decals by Cal-Grafx (http://www.cal-grafx.com). I suggest you contact them to determine whether they still have the CAD files they created for my decals.
Jim
I had vinyl decal made from the PICA 1/5 scale kit's decals by Cal-Grafx (http://www.cal-grafx.com). I suggest you contact them to determine whether they still have the CAD files they created for my decals.
Jim
12-20-2012, 09:44 AM
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RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: jmdunstan
Joe:
I had vinyl decal made from the PICA 1/5 scale kit's decals by Cal-Grafx (http://www.cal-grafx.com). I suggest you contact them to determine whether they still have the CAD files they created for my decals.
Jim
Joe:
I had vinyl decal made from the PICA 1/5 scale kit's decals by Cal-Grafx (http://www.cal-grafx.com). I suggest you contact them to determine whether they still have the CAD files they created for my decals.
Jim
Joe
12-20-2012, 02:07 PM
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RE: WACO YMF
The DLE-30 is a nice little engine I just got it in the mail the other day along with the Bisson wrap around muffler for it. Towards the end of the month I'll be placing my order for the Great Planes Waco this way I get my gasser to fly until I can get around to building the 1/5 scale kit I have and it will be a nitro burner then I'll really get the wife spun up with having two 1/5 scale waco's hanging from the ceiling!! LOL!! I seriously thought about getting the DLE-20 for the GP Waco but I went with what Great Planes had listed. Unless somebody has a better suggestion of which one would be the better of the two engines to use. I'll just have to see what happens once I have the plane in hand.
12-20-2012, 03:05 PM
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RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP
I GIVE UP!
Several months ago one of the Brothers posted a comment regarding having stencils made for his trim. If I remember correctly, he sent the company a set of the kit sticky back decals and they used them to make stencils or vinyl trims and numbers. I think this was for the 1/5 scale kit. I can't find that post and I've been looking for over a half hour! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
I GIVE UP!
Several months ago one of the Brothers posted a comment regarding having stencils made for his trim. If I remember correctly, he sent the company a set of the kit sticky back decals and they used them to make stencils or vinyl trims and numbers. I think this was for the 1/5 scale kit. I can't find that post and I've been looking for over a half hour! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Chuck