RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

WACO1, I don't think the squeegee will work (but it would be real nice if it did). Any of the epoxy and fillers I've worked with I think would want to adhere to the squeegee and drag along with it, making it impossible to get crisp corrugations that way. However, I really like the vacuum bagging idea (why didn't I think of that?). That is probably just the ticket to eliminate the pesky air bubbles. Definitely going to give that a try next time.

waco1

Sometime, when I have a little mixed epoxy left over, I'll have to remember to do a dry run, just to test the theory. The tactics are simple enough. Perhaps everyone already knows the height/width and angle of the original's ridges? It would seem they are less than 90* included angle? Might as well make the dry run as accurate as possible.

To prove the process it would be good to try to produce just 1 perfectly sized/shaped ridge. A single-edged razor blade should make a decent trial squeegee. Trial-sized/shaped grooves can be made using a Dremel with grinding or diamond wheel. I would wipe a solid bead of mostly microballoons and a little colloidal silica (to strengthen and prevent sagging) mixed into WEST epoxy resin and fast hardener (because I have it). Mixed in the right proportions, it should produce a ridge which is far less vulnerable than balsa. And durable enough to stand, alone, without glassing over. Just as some model builders might apply drops of glue to simulate screw or rivet heads, acceptable corrugations might be applied with a squeegee, I think.

skypup50

If anyone is looking for the above feel free to contact me.

Stickbuilder

Several of us have been able to do the corrugations using lithoplate. You simply cut a few shallow kerfs into a block of 1X6 to set the correct spacing. Drill a 3/32 inch hole in the first kerf cut near the edge. Then bend a piece of 1/16 music wire to 90 degrees so that the bent end will fit into the hole and the wire will lay completely in the kerf cut. I added a back stop to mine to keep the edge of the lithoplate square. Fit the lithoplate into the jig with about 1/2 inch protruding past the first kerf cut. Place the wire into the hole with the long end of the wire aligned with the kerf cut. Place a block of 1X6 on top and strike the block with an engineers hammer. Remove the striker block and advance the lithoplate so that the first corrugation that you just made fits into the second kerf cut, setting the lithoplate up for the second corrugation. Repeat until you have enough for one aileron side. Cut to size and shape. You will need to clean up the cut edge but this is easily done. You want to keep the corrugations closed on the ends except for every third one which you want open to replicate the drains. Attach to the aileron with a good contact cement. I use the adhesive that is used for Formica.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

fly20

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Bill and everyone one else for the advice.

Michaelj2k

Engineers hammer? Some of the engineers I know shouldn't handle tools! Like those three guys in my avatar.

LesUyeda

"Engineers hammer?"

I used to was one, and I don't know what it is?????:-))))))))))))

Les

acerc

I used the block and press method, drill press makes a good press for small stuff like this.

Stickbuilder

Engineers hammer is a 3 or 4 pound small sledge with a handle in the 18 inch range. Not to be confused with the well known BFH.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

stevegauth30

Ahh, the BFH. The cure all, fix all tool. Or not.

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

Les,

Like you I used to was one too. You probably don't know what it is because all your designs fit together. I know what it is.

LesUyeda

"You probably don't know what it is because all your designs fit together."

Actually, the most complex one that I ever did, did all fit together, but I had every wall in my office covered with prints, because a change in one, meant a change in 90% of all of them, and I had to cover them all. We were a very small outfit, and could not afford a bunch of prototypes.

Les

codiddley

My Feedback: (4)

Glad to see this thread is still alive. I'm still fantasizing about schemes for my 33%.

stevegauth30

And I'm just fantasizing about any 33% Waco. That would be my dream. A Barth Waco with a moki radial. Someday....

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

Cidid.,

I have a 1/4 Pepino done like your 3rd photo. Looks good to me. But I'm working on a Barth 1/3 and need to decide. I kinda like the colors in attached
Probably will go with yellow.

M Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132.

stevegauth30

I love a yellow Waco myself.

waco1

Indeed. My favorite stock paint job.

DinoR

When I eventually get round to starting my Barth I am looking at either of these Australian based planes, my father in law recently flew in VH- ONY AS A 70th birthday gift...

tmac48

Hi DinoR, Looking forward to your build. I was contemplating one of those as well, in the end I went with Yellow.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Unfortunately for health reasons, I'm not going to be finishing my third scale Barth Waco. If you are interested look at my ad.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=951420

Chuck

stevegauth30

So sorry to hear chuck. I hope you feel better. Man, why couldn't this be around income tax time? I would most certainly snatch it up. I'm sure somebody will. Good luck.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

O man Chuck I hate that for you. Sure is tempting seeing how close you are from me.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Dan,

Only 113 miles! If you are interested PM me your phone number and I will call you.

The health issues are not serious, but are age related. Dry eyes that sanding and spray painting really take their toll.

Chuck

stevegauth30

It's so unfortunate to not be able to do what you love. I feel for you. You'll still fly though? I hope.

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

Chuck1,

Sorry to hear. Really nice looking plane.

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood # 132