chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Dave,

It was good talking to you at the show. I hope all of you know that Dave drove the furthest to get to the show, over 3,000 miles.

Bill, I just missed you by a couple of minutes, maybe next year.

Chuck
(The guy with the gray ponytail)

cdbarker

I keep getting sent to page 673.

dadrivet

page 668 for me

cdbarker

I don't know how these things work but, I used to go right to the last post.

Yank II

I go to 669 You would think they would have fixed it by now

Tony V.

someone fixed it. it went 675

amscat

668. Same issue with other subscribed threads - never sends you to last page

Stickbuilder

Dave,
Glad you made it back to B.C. safely. Next time, leave a few days earlier and rest up at my home. I'm just over an hour away from Paradise Field. After the event, you are welcome to rest up before you head back, or just spend the Winter here. You can't beat the rent, and the grub is great. We'd love to have you.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

mogman

Thanks for the offer, Bill. I'll see how things go for next year.

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180

stevegauth30

Hey guys, I have a quick question for you Waco lovers. Do the fuse plans for the pica 1/5 show all of the formers? The reason I ask is, I have been longing for a nice Waco ever since I was old enough to know it. I really want to build it from plans, and recently acquired a wing plan, the build manual, and all of the plastic parts that come with the 1/5 Waco. Next question, if the fuse plan does show all of the formers, is there anyone who would be willing to make me a copy and send it to me? Of course I would pay for it, or even send you a copy of one of my plans in trade. I really want to build this from plans, so I hope it can be done. Any help would be appreciated. Steve.

Jim Henley

Steve, the plans and templates (courtesy of "Stickbuilder") are available from the AMA. Just be sure to tell them you want the templates.

stevegauth30

Oh nice, that's the answer I was hoping for. How is it to build? Any advice besides try to keep it light?

Jim Henley

I used a forstner bit and drilled lightning holes in the sheet for the horizontal and vertical stab. There are lots of tips on building one of these, hope to have mine ready to fly next season.

fly20

My Feedback: (2)

I have just finished covering my 1/6th waco. my kit did not have the plastic aileron corrigated pieces. I searched the aileron pages in the index listed on the first page but didn't see a way to simulate them [maybe I missed it somewhere in this huge thread]. It seems to be such a prominate feature of the plane that I hate to leave it off. Any hints on how to do this, or at this size not worth it. Thanks

Jaybird

An Uncle-in-law shared a story from his lady friend down in Florida. When she was younger (1940's) she did a lot of full size flying and her husband at the time had a WACO cabin model (he wasn't sure of the model number) and had this little adventure... while returning from a day trip to New York city (Teterborough) in the Waco with three girl friends, she arrived at their Bolton airport in the dark. Her husband had all the cars he could muster lining the runway with headlights for the landing. She assured her friends that everything was fine. Of course, she was shaking in her boots until her happy landing.




Jaybird

Jaybird

Hey fly,

There have been several people who have added the corrugations to the 1/6 Pica and Great Planes ARF version but I can't track down the page numbers. Not any help i know, but it has been done with good success (and a lot of work).

Jaybird

VOX

For my model, I made ​​a cab. It came out as that of the original aircraft. Later, I'll do it with a negative form. I have a question - what thickness of the glass in the original?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gian...omposit-2.html

cdbarker

Hi Fly,
I built a 1/6 kit and put the corigation on the ailerons. I bought semi circular poly styrene plastic rods. They are normally sold for train modelers building scenery. Jaybird is right, it is a lot of work. I cut them and glued each one to the ailerons. I put them on in scale spacing. I think, if I remember correctly, there are 39 for each aileron, top and bottom. I started by measuring each one and cutting it and then gluing them on individually. Then I found it easier and faster to glue the rod onto the aileron and then cut it off at the trailing edge. When they were all glued on, I sanded the trailing edge of the rods on a slight angle. When I painted the ailerons they looked fantastic and I forgot what a pain in the butt it was to complete four of them. You don't have to put them on at scale spacing like I did but it sure looks nice.

Carl

waco1

This would be right up VOX's alley. Doesn't it seem more difficult to produce the ribbed features, accurately and to scale, on the model, than it would be to produce rib "grooves" in a female mold for a thin f'glass skin?

Jim Henley

Fly 20, I used 1/16 square stock, glued to the ailerons in the scale spacing, then sanded them to a triangle shape. LOTS of work, I like Carl's suggestion of using styrene plastic shapes.

stevegauth30

Now you guys got me thinking. Before I start my 1/5 build, I may take the time to make some plugs of my abs parts. That way if something ever happens to the plane, I can just make more, and if someone here needed them, I could make them for a lot cheaper than they would be to buy them, ( if you can even get them.) that would be a lot of work though, there's a lot of plastic parts.hmmm.

Zor

It is always so sad to read such news about someone with common interest.

I could not avoid thinking of the famous flier named Jonathan of the same family name.

Condolences to his family and dear friends.

Zor

fly20

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks to all for the tips on the aileron corrigations. Hopefully I'll find some triangle stock so I wont have to sand it from square ones like Jim did. gary

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

WACO1,

I did exactly that. My aileron corrugations were made using an aluminum plate with triangular grooves cut into it. Epoxy and light fiberglass are laid into it and a press plate applied to the top. The thin skin is removed from the plate while still slightly green and glue to the ailerons. Doing this while the glass is still green allows the skin to bend slightly to conform to the aileron without cracking. While this method produces very consistent ailerons and is probably less work than adding triangle stock by hand to 8 skins, it is still not easy. Its very difficult lay up the skins and not get any air bubbles in the corrugations. It takes a scrupulously clean mold and even then its dicey. I found I would have to make 2 or 3 skins to yield useable one. The addition of a small amount of microballoons does help reduce the occurrence of air bubbles but doesn't eliminate them entirely, nor does using a shaker table. Even then, the skins would require some small amount of patching to yield a good looking skin.

Tony

waco1

Tony--Very good idea to attach the partially cured skins.

But your post got me thinking more about how to produce those features more easily. Rib grooves in a flexible rubber mold could be filled with epoxy/microballoon mix which would transfer the rib profile directly onto the aileron's airfoil shape. Touch-ups can be more easily performed before the lightweight mix is fully cured. Then glassing, if still desired, is a simple matter of wet layup. Perhaps vacuum bagging would be the safest way to produce virtually 100% usable parts with acceptably uniform density and low resin weight.

The thought also occurred to me that one could very easily cut appropriately shaped and spaced notches in the edge of a plastic squeegee and, using a fence to guide you, lay microballoon rib profiles down 10 or 20 at a swipe.

Epoxy/glass skins should make the ribbed features very durable and add substantial stiffness. It might be interesting to try to optimize the structural design so as to take advantage of the strong, stiff exoskeleton created by e/glass skins to create a shape which could never warp.