Hinckley Bill

My Feedback: (569)

Thanks so much for the video of the 'dual' AMR Waco's.....sad that we no longer have the option of purchasing the AMR 33% or 40% kits

shaked israel

You can buy the birth kit 33%

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

That's the Peter Barth 1/3 waco.

Hinckley Bill

My Feedback: (569)

Excellent point......just sad to see a second option disappear from the market

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

FYI I have the Peter Barth 1/4 waco unstarted. Doubt I'll live long enough to build it ;(.
Contact me if Interested.

Maschar

WACO members, I need your advice!
What build plans are better? Hostetler or Jim Pepino?

RICKSTUBBZ

I have no personal experience with either.
but here is a link to a good Pepino 1/4 scale WACO thread
Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco

Maschar

Its very useful, thank you!

dustbin

Hello Group,
I'm a bit late to this party, but as the saying goes - better late than never!

A number of years ago, I was given a "mostly built" 1/5th scale PICA YMF 3/5 at the conclusion of one of the model fleamarkets in Germany. By "mostly built", I mean that nearly all primary construction was done. It is "straight" but there were a multitude of mess-ups with the sheeting (poor fitting), WAY too much glue and the original owner had started to attach the plastic aileron "coverings" (not too well, IMHO).

I spent about a month grinding out the excess glue, covered the fin/rudder and most of the stab, but then life hit and nearly all building came to a halt. A move into a much smaller apartment left me with 10% of the building space that I previously had which meant that anything over two meter span was out.

Anyhow, I'm planning to get back to this puppy. It will be powered with a 20cc pumped SURPASS-3 and SAVOX SA-1283 servos. Two of the servos will direct-drive the bottom wing ailerons and the uppers thru slave struts. I'll be spending some hours going thru this thread to get some needed info.

Photos to follow showing the construction errors.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Its been some time since I've post the Waco Brotherhood list. Good to see a new post from dustbin (Pete Brecker) Pete I'm going to give you a Waco Brotherhood number.

Lets welcome Pete to the Brotherhood. Pete you will be Brother # 277



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#277 dustbin Pete Brecker

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johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

Its your airplane now so you build as you see fit. But a 20cc FS Surpass is not enough power or prop for this plane. It gets fat real quick. Especially with fabric and paint. Lighten everything behind the cg as much as you can. 26cc or 30cc. Just my 2 cents

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Not sure on that recommendation. Mine had a Saito 125 and flew fine. Swapped it out for a converted OS 120, (converted a pumped to normally aspirated) and that has far more power than it needs, even at close to 13 lbs. Both engines swung 16/8 2-blade props.

dustbin

Thanks for the tip. I also have an MVVS 26cc gassie that is looking for a new home and is also a bit heavier than the OS and I#m more inclined towards the MVVS as dope is next to impossible to get in Germany - only one company offers it and is prohibitively expensive Covering for the pup is/will be ORACOVER (ULTRACOAT) textile that take any kind of paint and is lighter than COVERITE - but that bridge is still far off.

Here are a few photos of the fuselage, pretty much as I got it. I've filled in most of the divots, fitted the cowl after gluing the rocker warts on. I'll be making the "baggage" door operational, where the receiver and switches will hide. I prefer to use pull-pull on the rudder, and prolly go with a pushrod on elevator. Def NOT the way the original owner planned, unless he was intending to use a solid wire rod.

dustbin

NICE! What throttle setting were you at for most of the flight? It def has enough power, but the roll rate is a lot more than scale. One nice thing about the pumped motors is that one can place the tank just about anywhere. The tank I had in my Goldberg "Ultimate" was practically under the cockpit with a small 2 oz hopper tank at the firewall (had an ENYA R120-4C in it) and all the electronics behind the bottom wing. Weighed close to 10 pounds RTF and had unlimited vertical. The Surpass III has a bit more power and torque than the ENYA, so it SHOULD be OK and I have the MVVS for a back-up.

Dash7ATP

The system I use to balance all of my planes is one i came up with when trying to decide how to balance an F-4 Phantom. With the highly swept wings I was not going to try to balance it by resting it on the wings. This is a fool proof system. Make a sling big enough with a loop on each end. The one for the front needs to be large enough to fit over the prop and engine shaft, and the loop for the rear end should pass over the rudder and loop over the tail wheel or aft end of the plane. I use a 1/8" piece of soft (cotten) line and when rigged up, it should have about two feet from the model to the top of the loop. I slipped the line into a piece of large fuel tubbing so it could slide back and forth. The loop is hung from a hook in the ceiling with a piece of long line tied around the fuel tubing. This allows you to slide the loop back and forth through the tubing to get the model to hang level.

The piece it is hanging from goes through a small pulley hanging from a hook in the ceiling, and to my vice where I can lock it down . The model only has to be lifted an inch or two above the floor or table as long as it is free to move, I made a small plumb bob from a bullet shaped fishing sinker and hang it with a piece of line long enough to hook into the vertical piece. I just made a hook using a straight pin so I can adjust the bob to hang just above the model. With the model hanging below a single point. and with the fuselage level, The plumb bo has to be directly above the current CG. If you need to adjust the CG, Add a little weight where necessary at allow the desired CG Location to be directly below the bob.

This is what my system looks like. It only takes a minute to set up and can be used on any model you may have.

kartman24

Has anyone on here fitted a petrol/gas engine to the 1/6 scale Dave Platt YMF-3, i have two of these lovely kits and want to use a petrol engine in it.

Flyingbaseball

Howdy folks sorry for my 2yr absence but I’m getting ready to start back on the pica 1/5 scale Waco. So here’s the story flyingbaseball was my brother who started on the top wing, but unfortunately high school and life got in the way of the project. So I’ve decided to take on the project and am really looking forward to building this plane. The only thing I’ve got done since my last post is there are outer wing strut mounts read to be glued. But after that I think it’s read to Finnish sheeting and final shape anyway super excited to take on this project and I will keep this forum updated.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Glad to see you back been quiet to long. Looking forward to you build.

Flyingbaseball

Well after 3 days I’ve got the top wing as far as I want to go with it for now and I’m getting the bottom wing all framed up was hoping to get a little further but during the absence my dog thought it would be a good idea to chew up most of my W5 ribs so cutting out new ones was a big time killer but it seems to be going together well.

Flyingbaseball

Doing my aileron gang rod attach points a little different than stock. I first cut a hole for the ply stiffener to sit flush on the inside of the bottom ail sheeting, then sanded flush on the bottom. Glued the ply stiffener in place and drilled through the attach point and ply. I then ran a small wood screw through the whole assembly, backed it out and countersunk the ply to make the screw sit flush then put the screw back in. Then to finish it off added some 1/16 sheet strips to make it harder for the assembly to come apart. So it’s probably not as stout as the original, but to me it’s strong enough and looks a lot better than essentially just screwing the slave rod attach point on top of the ail.

Flyingbaseball

Alrighty folks getting ready to build the fuselage and I understand just about everything except these F22 wing saddle parts. mine are 5/32 stiff balsa and according to the plans and manual I’ve got the shape them to the wing airfoil. How the heck am I supposed to bend 5/32 sheets to the shape of the airfoil I’m familiar with the hot water trick but bending 5/32 parts that sharp especially the LE area will snap the wood I must be missing something any input greatly appreciated.


If I’m understanding it correctly the F22 parts lay horizontally.

Jim Henley

Soak the balsa part with a little ammonia, Let them sit overnight, you will be amazed how easily they will bend. Use Titebond or other white glue and let the assembly sit overnight, you should be good to go .

Flyingbaseball

Here’s the latest on the fuse got the forward sheeting on was just about to string the bottom fuse but remembered my tailwheel it’s two sawed off nitro engine beam mounts and the wire was a perfect snug fit for a standard futaba servo arm.

RICKSTUBBZ

You're making progress. Lots of wood in one of these.
One day I will build mine...

Flyingbaseball

Feewww been a minute since I updated you fine folks but some big progress has been made (at least that’s what it feels like) tail is fully framed up and ready for sanding, rudder has the distinct Waco counterbalance, elevator haves are joined with a carbon rod. Interplane struts are assembled and ready for sanding. But what I’m exited about are the wing lights, took a day to fabricate them into place but it looks great, glad I incorporated em in. Top wing lights are just a standard rc plane led light kit. I made really tiny basswood brackets for em, with some sanding should bled in nicely. The bottom wing landing lights are 1/10 rc car rooftop spotlights that are glued to a light ply backer. Super stoked how they came out.