PilotLight,
Thanks for the correction on the gyro operation. Do you know if it is possible to install a HH gyro on an Axe CP without having to upgrade other components as well?

Schoobaka,
I'll dig into my heli-stuff later and post the name of the oil, the key thing is it's plastic compatible.

All the local heli-flyers as well as Finless's (Bob White's) videos say the same thing about ball links. You want smooth link joints with no binding and no slop. So if you start scuffing the flash-line off the plastic ball (male) side of the linkage, use 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and take your time, test fit the link often during the process to keep from over-doing it. Lightly drag your fingernail across where the flashline is/was. When your nail no longer catches on the flashline, and/or there's no bump that you can feel with your nail, stop.

I wouldn't mess with the "female" linkage at all, don't sand it or modify it in any way.

I do know that some oils/lubricants could cause plastic to "break-down/soften". So if the oil/lube you are thinking of using doesn't specifically say "plastic-compatible" on it, dont use it!

After you do this to your Axe, be easy on the sticks because your heli will be noticeably more responsive.

PilotLight,
In reference to your statement, and others, when I purchased my GY401, I picked up a ElectriFly mini-ESC as specified in the 'upgrage' PDF from Hobbico/HeliMax. The one thing that I seem to note in the documentation comparing the GY240 and the GY401 is the fact that the 401 supports remote gain management and mode control.

I noticed in another thread that at least one other user has been trying to put a GY401 on an Axe CP, and has had a problem 'kicking' it into HH mode. My biggest concern here is that the stock Axe receiver and radio combo can't handle the more advanced Gyro.

Can anyone verify this? I haven't rec'd mine yet to install, but once I do I'll be sure to yell either way.

TIA!

GY401 UPDATE:

If you have a stock Axe CP, don't try it. I could reference several threads on this board now, but the end result is that the GY401 requires features that are not available on the stock radio transmitter. Specifically, the statement is 'a spare channel with adjustable endpoints and/or switching capability' to adjust the gain 'pulse' signal from the radio to the aforementioned Rx channel. The pulse width is anywhere from 1.x-2ms, the variances are exacting, AND have to be timed with rudder control.

Sheesh. Soooo... needless to say I sent the GY401 back to Tower yesterday, and req. an exchange for a GY240 which has statically adjustable gain controls on-gyro.

And a note all the other flyers out there, IT IS WORTH THE PAIN TO PUT THE CANOPY ON EACH TIME you fly. I previously mentioned that it looked like my 3-in-1 board took a hit before, right? Well, I became curious the other day and went about removing the metal pot dial retaining lid and *poof* a corner of the pot frame flaked off... meaning the dial was not securely fastened to the slider contacts within the pot assembly... i.e. frame oscillation from the copter causes the gain dial to loose contact here and there. Either I need to order a new 3-1 Board or repair it myself.

MARKIND -- Could you confirm for me with your electronics expertise, that the Ohms on the center pot are in the range of 0-1.65k? IF indeed my numbers are correct, I may hit up the 'Crack and grab a replacement pot and see if I can swap out the busted one. Oh how I long for a lab grade de/soldiering workstation/vac unit like that I was trained on.

Clear skies and crashless flights to all. :-/

Call me crazy but has any body tried swaping out the Axe rotor head to a Blade CP/CP2 Head? I'm drooling over the microheli CNC head system.

Stryker I am not Markind but I have done the electronics thing as long as I can remember-----------what!!?? What was I talking about, OH Yea, the POT on your 3 in 1 board. They usually come in standard sizes, 1k, 2k, 5k, 10k,...etc. You might be reading resistance values of other components in the circuit along with the POT to get the 1.65k. There is usually a marking on the pot to tell the value. If not about the only way to tell is to remove it and measure with an ohm-meter. If I were a betting man, I would guess 2k or 5k. I will have a look when I get home.

Well, here is another totaly new nOOB in this Heli thing. I was given an Axe for work on my friends truck. I couldn't pass the smog test so I had to actually pay for the Heli. Bummer. :-)

This is the most fun I have had in a long time! I can't hover but am close. I can get about a minute off the ground in my garage. More out side with no wind plus lots of sim time. I think that I am hooked. I can fly airplanes but this is so much more taxing on my brain. This thread is great. I haven't read all the posts yet but I am happy with the Axe.

Here is a pic of my practice area:

I unstand your perspective, and I did realize the other night that the two lower pots are of the same type. Regardless, I did pick up a new 1k micro pot/trimmer from RS last night. Later tonight I'll probably go and lift off the old one and give it a shot. I have to do something to keep myself busy while I wait for my Gyro to arrive. [8D]

Welcome to the addiction. Too bad you had to pay for the heli and work on your friends truck. Maybe you can take back the beer cans and still break even.

If anyone can score me a SCHEMATIC for the stock 3-in-1 board I would love to do a little circuit analysis.

Where I am at:

Looking really good actually, and ready for more forward flight and gentle pattern flying, dead calm weather permitting. I am still trying to fine tune the tail, still have a slight 'twitch' which I may downgrade in description to a 'short repeated wag'. It is not much of a problem to deal with.

Still, my DX6 right rudder trim is around 30 points to the right - but since she hovers well I am thinking this is ok.

Need help:


I tried playing with the REVO-MIX settings - there is RVU and RVD, which seem to be associated with the Throttle Hold Switch (upper right switch), where RVU is "Switch is Up" and RVD is "Switch is Down".

These settings go from + / - 125%. I could not figure out if they could help - but they can certainly disable the tail from going one direction or the other.

Tips anyone?


Gyro Help:

After I dial in the tail, I want to get a HH gyro going. But, it looks like I must also buy a separate ESC for the Tail Motor? Or?? Can I have the stock everything and just add the GY201?

MArkind

I found this post about using a gyro with no mods. I havent tried it but here is the link

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=645063

OK first, what is a GY201?! [sm=confused.gif]

Anyway with the GY401 or GY240 the 3-in-1 merely acts as a main motor speed control if using a seperate controller for the tail. If you check Dume's link Eeeeky said you can in fact use the 3-in-1's tail motor speed control if you take the orange wire from channel 4 hook it into the gyro and hook the gyro to channel 4. Then turn gyro gain all the way down. Keep in mind also that the 401 will require a second channel.

I don't think dialing in the tail prior to an HH gyro install has any real advantage. Chances are it's gonna have to be readjusted anyway. I have an HH gyro on the way too with a seperate speed control. I'm actually going BL, but even if I wasn't I'd go with a seperate controller anyway because I don't really care for the OE 3-in-1. If you turn up the TR trim too much the tail twitches, and you may still not have enough to keep the tail from coming around in a hover. The other thing is the tail will start to wander as the voltage wanes requiring me to readjust the Tx trim during flight.

Helimax put out instructions for an Axe CP HH gyro conversion a while back on their website. Check it out.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/hmx/hmxe04-gyro-manual.pdf

That's funny Chaseman,
I wrote the exact same post over a month ago [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6951753&postcount=3]here[/link], and I made the same mistake. Mark wanted to know if it was possible to install an HH gyro without the seperate ESC for the tail motor. He wants to use the existing speed control in the 3-in-1 for the tail motor.

This may seem like a really stupid question but I just got the AXE a couple days ago and am having alot of fun with it, and just got some Lipos today and am not sure how to secure them in the heli frame. Could some of you guys using Lipos please let me know how you are securing them in the frame?

Thanks in advance.

my tp 1320 wobbles when its in there so i use 2 of my planes rubberbands to hold it still.

Hi Markind,
Since there are different amounts of torque generated ascending and decending, the the revo mix has different settings for each. i.e, if your tail is swinging when climbing, adjust RVU, If the tail is swinging when decending adjust RVD.
At least I think I am right on this one. I have been using a HH gyro so I don't use Revo.

My problem is that the batteries won't fit in horizontal, the frame is too tight. Then when I try them in vertical they don't sit right due to the cut out on the frame. I guess I could glue something over the cutout but then the stock battery wouldn't fit anymore. I was hoping someone had an easy answer that I am not thinking of.

Thanks again

I use to put some soft foam around the LiPo so that it would sit upright and not alter the balance of the heli too much. Then I started to rubber band the battery to the bottom of the frame under the original battery 'hole', but the the canopy wouldn't fit. Now I just put the @#$mn thing in there and let it sit however it wants. All that trouble and it made no difference at all.

I had problems with Li-Po fitment as well. At first I used foam like Alien, but it also kept in heat. A big no-no. Now I use a lexan tray and some cardboard spacers taped to my batteries. The batteries now stay much cooler. Here's some pics.

It is amazing how you can see your progress when you fly at night.

Flew earlier today and held it in a hover for four minutes. It felt like ten.[sm=redface.gif] This was my record until just now. I held my axe in a pretty rock solid hover for the life of the battery. Timed it out to be six minutes.[sm=shades_smile.gif] Yesterday I couldn't keep it up for more thann thirty seconds. But today it was dead calm.

Does anyone now were I can get a new lipo and charger for under $70. I want the lipos doen't have the $90-$100 to spend right now.

Was looking at the hh gyros, will probably get one in the summer.

Keep flying and keep the reports coming.[sm=what_smile.gif]

BPHobbies.com have a balance charger for $15. Only charges one at a time though. Look for E-sky.

Thanks I'll take a look.

Does anyone here have the roto fly. I had it last year but was unsatified so I sent it back. I have some replacement rotors, tail rotor and an extra lipo if anyone is interested I will tell you exactly what I have. Other wise they are going on ebay. Wish the lipo worked on the axe.

Thanks alot Heliko,

That is exactly what I hoping to here and see. Your pics were a big help. I made a similar "tray" put of lightply. I am also going to use velcro and a strap. The other way I am considering to make this better is to attach a small weight to the battery tray and then put my batteries under the main frame behind the motor. This would make it sooooo much easier to change the batteries. For proper balance the heli would only weigh the weight of another battery. I think that this will work.


Thanks again for the help.....this forum is great.

Glad to help Johnny.
A word of caution though. That extra weight your talking about will probably have a pretty big impact on flight dynamics especially at your altitude. The heli will most likely seem more sluggish and the added weight will also have an effect on flight time. Give it a try I guess, but I'm pretty sure your not gonna be happy with the adverse effects.

That said you're right about changing batteries. It can be a little cumbersome, but here's the way I see it. It gives the motors a little rest between packs. I know this really doesn't seem like a big deal with the 4-5 minute runs we get with the OE packs, but the 12-14 minute runs that li-po's give us can get the motors pretty warm.

Also since I'm on the subject of caution, be careful with the cheap Li-Po chargers. They're cheap for a reason. Do not leave them unattended during charging and check the Li-Po's temp during charging to make sure it's not heating up. If they build up too much heat during a charge the best case is the pack will be ruined and the worst case is a cell or cells may burst and as soon as that Lithium hits the air it will catch fire.

Remember,
it's all fun and games,
till your Li-Po bursts into flames.

Seriously though these batteries demand our respect.

Hey heliko, just took another look at your pictures. What are those things on your skids and whats you doo withe the reseaver wire.

Just qureous to know what they are and if the help.