That looks cool Heliko. I like the blue/yellow color. I ordered mine blue and also using the yellow blades. They sure can take a beating.

Wow,
First two chrages today at work, 2 inches off the ground max height, twenty foot circle. I find that if I can't fly it and do stunts eventually it will be the most expensive broom that I have ever owned.

Yeah, just fly around until all the dirt is in the corners, then suck it up with a wet dry vac. Works great as a leaf blower too!

Thanks Shack, and your right those plastic blades can take a beating. I noticed if they get dinged on the leading edge some careful heating with a butane lighter shrinks them back into shape. Very Cool. [8D]

Yea I found that a small drop of slow set CA glue fills the ding and when it dries just sand the glue nub down to match the blade. Rebalance and your done.

if you knick the stock blades you could just do what i did with my blade. put packing tape over it and make an airfoil. make sure its balanced though. i did this with my blade and it worked fine.

the lipo would DEFINETLY be a great upgrade.


also gents, open the transmitter and remove the metal tab on the throttle. its MUCH smoother.

I think that I purchased the wrong extra parts.
Next time I buy a new heli Iwill buy a complete extra, that when when I smack the heli into the fence I won't break the rear rotor assembly off of the boom. I also admit to being stupid enough to fly after having a beer. probaly the reason that I was impatient enough to get it high enough reach the top of the fence. GOD I feel stupid. I think the bulk package will include the tx with usb cable to I can get some SERIOUS sim time in. The blades were completely unharmed but the flybar carrier had a ball linkage break off. I realize the damgaer that could come from gluing thing on high speed spinning parts, but has anybody glued on of those back on and had success or am I setting myself up for a bigger catastrophy? does fms actually have enough sensitivity to teach hovering or should I bite the bullet and just get XTR? I apologize for needing these questions answered but I don't have any body around that can help me that I have found yet. Thanks again and I am ready for the ribbing that is involved with making a dumb-a**ed mistake like I did.

Don't be so hard on yourself. EVERYBODY crashes. I have crashed 6 or more times. Don't glue on a broken ball joint you are just asking for trouble. As far as drinking a beer and then flying one shouldn't hurt but more and you are flying at your own risk.

Go get some spare parts, fix the heli and have fun. I can't say how the FMS sim is but I have the old Deluxe version of Real Flight and after spending about 10 hours with it I was way better at handeling the real heli.

Yeah so chalk that one up for experience.

As far as the ball link, You can drill out the part the link broke off of and put a metal ball and screw in it to get you back in the air until your replacement arrives. You might be able to find one that is the ball and screw combined so your not fiddling with trying to get get a tiny screw through the ball AND screwed into the flybar carrier.

The more beer you drink, the more sensitive the FMS simulator.

Just kidding, I have FMS and it works for helping to find which way to push the sticks, but not so much for teaching how much. (know what I mean) Half the battle is seeing a need for a correction and then making the right correction. Most people over-control their model because they correct the wrong way and then double correct the right way, or correct too late to begin with. Any sim will help you.

Live and learn, just don't keep making the same mistake over and over.

SeeBee-- Don't worry about it. Just get your heli fixed properly and start flying again. Any sim will help you learn to fly better. I practiced on Real Flight G3 for about a month or so before getting my AXE and was hovering in my garage the first night I got it. The sim has helped me to be more relaxed and confident when flying the real deal.

On another note. I just ordered myselft a new T-Rex 450SE V2, DX7, and everything else needed to get it flying. Because of this I may have a couple of things for the AXE for sale in the next couple of weeks. I am going to keep my AXE but will no longer need 3 lipo packs for it so I will be selling 2 of my Thunder Power 3s 1320 packs and possibly a few other spare parts that are still new in the bag.

I have had a good experiance with the AXE CP and it served its purpose well. I now know that I am going to stick with this "Heli Thing" and and ready to move up to different model.

Hey BoysToys... Keep the Lipos. I fly my TRex with a Thunder Power 1320 whenever my 2200s are all dead. PLUS in case you havent heard DX6 & 7s are really bad with battery life. Im gonna mod the TP1320 with a cobra connector so I can use it to power the radio

And if you buy an extra receiver for your Dx7 you could fly the Axe and it will be a totally different beast!!

Help me out here... My axe seems to fly fine, but I notice a slight wobble in the rotor button. The main shaft doesn't wobble and it seems to settle down at higher speeds. I can't figure out where it's coming from. Should I even be worrying about it? LOL

Take the head button off and see if you still get a wobble.

never thought about that. I'll try it. The head button isn't holding anything on by chance? Here's a noob question. What is the button for anyway?

No, It's not essential. On larger helis people use it to slow down the blades.

Sometimes the play between the mainshaft and bearings can cause a wobble at low RPM.

I need help with another subject. I'm getting ready to switch to lipo. I'm buying a cellpro 4s and the megapower 11.1v 1350mah from helidirect. The pack dimensions are 25x36x68. Where or how do these lipo packs fit into the axe? Thanks for any help!

Stevo

The answer that I wsa given fo the head button is in conjunction with the reason why some heli's have a underslung flybar. When owners fly invert they try to get as low to the ground as possible and a button will (help) prevent a crash if you touch the ground. As to why it would slow the blades down I would think that since the mass is centralized it wouldn't much effect in slowing down the head speed, If I am misguided in this assumption please let me know, I am also a noob. As to everybody else who responded to my crysacking, thank you for your words of encouragement. I created a training gear system out of oak quarter round door moulding it is realitivly heavy but makes the heli so stable (sluggish) that i can only hover a foot off the ground. Yaa the parts only cost 6 bucks and I learned how to solder.
thanks again, Seabee890

The Mega Power 3 cell fits just fine in the same spot as the OE pack.

I have noticed the canopy fits a bit better if the discharge leads come out at the top when slid into the heli.

I just bought a Feigao FG130L brushless motor for my AXE-CP and I need to know how to mount it since the diameter is considerably smaller than the stock motor.

Hal give [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5800101/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]this thread[/link] a look, and more specifically [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5835011]this post[/link].

Hello all. I am new to this forum but not really new to rc. I had a Hirobo shuttle about 12 years ago but never flew it much. I did finially get to where I could fly solo a couple of times though. anyhow I picked up an Axe CP about 15 days ago and started the steps of learning how to fly. I slid it around on the floor for about 5 packs and then had a buddy stop by. He has a newer heli that he flys on a regular basis. Together we got the radio trimmed in and found the factory set length of the linkages were all out of wack. When I adjusted them to match the trims on the radio I found that we basicly set them to what the manual says there lenght should be. So it appears that they were wrong from the factory. When I went to put on the the linkages back on the ball link portion of the swashplate broke off in my hand. ??? I was a bit dissappointed as I was only using two fingers to try to snap the link back in place and I felt this broke way to easy. Anyhow to make a long story short. I took the heli up and hovered it around for about 3 stock batteries and found that it was flying better.

The next day I got the heli out and started into a hover and after I had the hover stabalized the heli head started shaking violently. It shook so bad that the tail boom rotated in the mount to the main frame and the tall motor and fin were now facing 45 degrees from vert? You can imagine what this does to flight of a small heli like this! I was able to get the heli down on the ground and tried to figure out what had just happened. I looked over all the head linkages and didn't find anything out of wack that I can tell. I took the heli up again and it didn't do it right away but about 30 sec in to the hover it did it again. Some times it will do it right away and some times it takes it a while.

Now this heli has never been crashed by me but I shure don't know what is going on that is causing this. The blade tracking seems fine but when this thing starts doing it shaking thing it defenatly looks like the tracking is being affected for sure. I have sence taken the head completly appart and looked at all components for failure and damage. I cannot see any. THey all look in good order and setup correctly. I do have another set of blades I can try to see if somthing is going on there.

I called heli-max yesterday and they recommend I send them the heli and have them check it out. I must say I am dissappointed in 1 thing and that is the tail boom mounts. The 4 screws that clamp around the boom seem to be stripped and I have never tried to adjust them. The only thing I can figure is they were stripped to begin with or they somehow stripped due to the vibration of the heli.


Does anyone have any ideas as to things I could do to fix these issues or should I just send the heli into the factory and have them work on it. I hate to send it off and not see it again for a long time.

Thanks for any feedback.

AC

Sounds like you had a DYNAMIC BALANCE issue. Main rotor blades can be STATICALLY BALANCED but once they get moving if the c.g. of one is way off from the other then once you hit a certain headspeed (rotor rpm) that imbalance can and will cause that shaking.




p.s. Crashed my T-Rex today

Yet another fine example of just what a POS the Axe is. I would send it back. Hobby Services has a pretty good turn around time of about 2 weeks. They will probably just send you a new Axe.