I have a spare set of main blades I could put on but I have a little concern about that tail boom rotating in the mount. I could drill and put a screw in to keep it in place but I think at this point I just need to send it in.

What can a person do to try to correct a dynamic inballence in the head? Tonight I took the main blades off and looked at the head while it was rotating and did see a wobble in the head assembly. I'm talking like .02 out here so it isn't much. I took the head assy off of the main shaft to verify that it wasn't bent and spun up the motor. It turned nice and true all the way up to full speed. It appears that it is the plastic pieces above the main shaft that is not spinning true.

I got out my digital calipers and double checked all the linkages and they are in spec with the manual. I also checked the lenght from the inner collar to the beginning of each of the two flybar pattles. They are within .005 of each other. I would think that this would be good enough.

If anyone has further info on this for us that we can use for future reference when trying to troubleshoot issues like this I would greatly appreciate the posts with detals about what to look for and how to correct.

Thanks from this noob

AC

What's the story on the Trex and what's the damage report $$ ?

Are you using the training gear on the heli? This seems to cause vibration which translates through the whole heli. Between that and the slight wobble in the head could be enough to cause the violent shaking your seeing.

You can use DU-BRO No. 2x3/8 socket head sheet metal screws to replace the ones that hold the boom tight. They fit perfectly and can get the boom clamped down tight .

Both rotor blades = $12
Feathering Shaft = $6 (pack of 4)
1 Blade grip = $7 (pack of 4)
Total cost in parts = $25 = CHEAP!!

Got it back together in less than 20 mins and was back in the air again!!!!
What caused the crash?? A brain fart. Was doing some lazy piroettes and ended a couple of them nose-in. Heli decided it wanted to go left and out of reflex I countered by giving right cyclic (nose-in I should have given left cyclic) and it went into the ground sideways. Luckily I dumped the throttle just before it hit.

I just wanted to say thanks to those who have responded to my posts. I will be sending in the heli this week.

AC

Could someone please post the link that describes how to find blade C.G. I am a little fuzzy on what is required.
I am currently working on making the pitch guage that I found on forum here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=342799 I will let everyone know how it works when I use it.
Thanks

After my recent nose in crash I am thinking of painting left and right stick on the nose of my heli so my dislexic **s will know which way to move the stick.

Do's anybody know signs that would idecate the e-board is going out ? Thanks G4udog

My second video is now up.
Just thought that I would share it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzTIudfYklM

how do i start a thread?

paste this link into address window: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/foru...smode_1/tt.htm

above where it atarts to outline the link threads ie: all forums>> electric helis>> etc... will be a box marked "new post".

Click that box and it will move you to begin a new thread.

My advice would be to do a few searches of these forums to make sure that you are not wasting your time restating what has been posted. However, since you joined late 2006, you probably have already seen the whole site.
Good luck and I look forward to reading your shared wisdom.

Seabee890

THATS ABSOLUTE GENIUS!!

The Axe has the antenna mounted on the right skid. If it needs to go towards the antenna, cyclic towards the right. If it is nose in and is leaning towards the antenna, the heli's right, your left, push the cyclic towards your left.

A tip i have learned from flying fixed wings is when flying away from me left on the stick turns left and right turns right. But nose in it's backwards so when the right wing drops i litteraly try to prop that side up with the stick. For me the theory is the same, nose in which ever way the plate tips i try to prop the stick under that low side. Hope this is helpful ?

If there had been enough time for me to remember which side the antenna was on, I would have had enought time to make the second correction.
If I understand what you are trying to say your focus is on the antenna side of the craft, therefore......... nope lost my train of thought. I almost had it and it wasn't confusing, then I lost it like some Lewis Black moment gone horribly wrong. Thank you for the Idea, I think that I can figure it out I just can't describe it back to you. thanks.


"If it wasn't for my horse, I never would have spent that year in college."
Lewis Black

Easiest way to remember is to steer towards the side that's dipping.

i still like this idea more.... I'm a very visual person. The voices in my head get so loud sometimes that I can't think and then comes the brain fart which usually causes something bad to happen. lol

I noticed a post about cutting a hole on the heat sink of the axe to open up vent holes. can you just drill a few holes in the heat sink where the vents are or is it better to dremel out a larger hole? If anyone has a pic of the mod I'd love to see it.

And another noob question. I've never had the motor out of my axe or had to do any repairs in the moto area, Does the heatsink simply snap on and off?

Thanks, Stevo

Unplug the motor and then unscrew the motor bolts. Push the motor straight down until the heatsink slides off then remove the heatsink through the larger opening in the frame. Mod and then replace in reverse order.They say it's a clip on sink, But they are aluminum so if you distort it then it going to be loose and trying to bend it back would just make it weak or possibly crack imo.

Another silly noob question. Where do you unplug the motor? Is it the two heat shrink lookin connections about half way between the motor and esc?

Yes, those are the locations you don't have to neccessarily unplug both if you are just going through start-up/ shutdown procedures. I only unplug the neg(black) some recomend the positive connection. As long as you do one or the other you won't (shouldn't) ever have a problem. (keeping in mind that the tail rotor still has enough power to turn your heli completly around and offf the kitchen table.)......(the cat still won't come near the table anymore.)

P.S. I hope that this answers your question. Please remember that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. If anybody gives you any problems about asking a question the moderators will HANDLE them! that is not tolerated here.

Thanks for all the help guys! OK while I'm on a roll, One more question. I'm sure there is a great reason for this but, why unplug the motor before doing this. If there isn't a battery attached to the heli, does the motor get any power? Is there a capacitor? or is there another reason? I need to move in next door to an experienced pilot and bug the fool outa him or her!

Thanks again! Stevo

I just slid the heat sink off the motor towards the cooling fins. No need to fully remove the motor.

This post is actually by PilotLight also: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5806547]link[/link]. The aluminum is soft enough that you can just use a rounded filer and file until you completely uncover the slit in the motor (on both sides). Others have also resorted to just cutting off a square pieces from the heatsink, starting at the level above the motor slits.

I was just curious. How many of you are using the stock radio with the axe and who is using a different radio.
Thanks again to all who helped me with the heatsink mod! About 20 minutes with a set of needle files and I'm all set!

Stevo